purlJam

# Cascade Scoop — A Figure-Hugging Sleeveless Top

A close-fitting sleeveless shell worked in smooth stockinette with subtle waist shaping that traces an hourglass figure. The wide, low scoop neckline and clean ribbed bands give a polished, flattering finish that drapes beautifully over the body. Worked flat in two pieces and seamed.

**Difficulty:** Intermediate
**Sizing:** Custom-drafted for measurements 84-58.5-73.5cm (33-23-29"), close/figure-hugging fit with approx. 2cm negative ease at bust.

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## Materials

- **Yarn:** Worsted weight (Aran/medium, weight 4). A cotton or cotton-linen blend is recommended for breathability and drape. Approx. 350–450m (380–490 yds).
- **Needles:**
  - Main: 4.5mm (US 7) straight or circular needles
  - Edging: 4mm (US 6) needles for ribbed bands
- **Notions:** Stitch holders or waste yarn, yarn needle for seaming, stitch markers.

## Tension (Gauge)

**18 sts and 24 rows = 10cm (4")** in stocking stitch on 4.5mm needles, after blocking.

*Please knit a tension square — fit depends on it.*

## Abbreviations (UK)

- k = knit; p = purl
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- st st = stocking stitch (k on RS, p on WS)
- k2tog = knit two together (right-leaning dec)
- ssk = slip, slip, knit (left-leaning dec)
- m1 = make one (lifted increase)
- RS / WS = right side / wrong side
- beg = beginning; rem = remaining; rep = repeat

## Finished Measurements

| Point | Per piece (cm) | Full circumference (cm/in) |
|---|---|---|
| Hip (cast-on) | 36.6 | 73.3 / 28.9" |
| Waist | 27.8 | 55.5 / 21.9" |
| Bust | 41.1 | 82.2 / 32.4" |
| Total length | — | 56 / 22" |
| Armhole depth | — | 21 / 8.25" |

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## BACK

### Hem ribbing
With 4mm needles, cast on **66 sts**.
Work 1x1 rib (k1, p1 to end) for 4cm, ending with a WS row.
Change to 4.5mm needles.

### Lower body with waist shaping
Begin st st, starting with a knit (RS) row. Work 2 rows even.

**Waist decreases:** On the next RS row, work a decrease row:
*Dec row (RS):* k3, ssk, knit to last 5 sts, k2tog, k3. *(2 sts dec)*

Rep Dec row every 6th row a further **7 times**. *(8 decrease rows total: 66 − 16 = 50 sts)*

Work even until piece measures **20cm** from cast-on, ending with a WS row. You are now at the natural waist (50 sts).

**Bust increases:** On the next RS row, work an increase row:
*Inc row (RS):* k3, m1, knit to last 3 sts, m1, k3. *(2 sts inc)*

Rep Inc row every 6th row a further **11 times**. *(12 increase rows total: 50 + 24 = 74 sts)*

Work even until piece measures **35cm** from cast-on, ending with a WS row.
*Check: 74 sts ÷ 1.8 = 41.1cm = correct bust width.*

### Shape armholes
**Row 1 (RS):** Bind off 4 sts, knit to end. *(70 sts)*
**Row 2 (WS):** Bind off 4 sts, purl to end. *(66 sts)*
**Row 3 (RS):** k3, ssk, knit to last 5 sts, k2tog, k3. *(2 sts dec — 64 sts)*
**Row 4 (WS):** Purl.
Rep Rows 3–4 a further **4 times**. *(5 dec rows total: 66 − 10 = 56 sts)*

*Check: armhole edge stitches removed each side = 4 (bind-off) + 5 (decreases) = 9 sts. 9 × 2 = 18 sts removed; 74 − 18 = 56 sts. ✓*

Work even in st st until armhole measures **21cm**, ending with a WS row.
*Check: total length = 35 + 21 = 56cm. ✓*

### Shape shoulders and back neck
**Row 1 (RS):** Bind off 5 sts, knit until 18 sts on right needle (incl. st from bind-off), bind off centre 24 sts, knit to end.
You now have two groups of 16 sts (one each side of the bound-off centre neck — left group still on needle after a 5-st bind-off).

Working each side separately:
**Right shoulder (WS facing):** Bind off 5 sts at armhole edge, purl to neck edge. Bind off 5 sts at armhole edge (RS), then bind off rem 6 sts.
**Left shoulder:** Rejoin yarn at neck edge. Bind off 5 sts at armhole edge on each of the next two RS/WS shoulder rows as for right side, then bind off rem 6 sts.

*Check: each shoulder = 5 + 5 + 6 = 16 sts. Two shoulders (32) + back neck 24 = 56 sts. ✓*

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## FRONT

Work exactly as for Back through the hem, waist shaping, bust increases, and armhole shaping, until **56 sts** remain after armhole decreases.

Work even until armhole measures **9cm**, ending with a WS row.
*This sets a deep, wide scoop. Front neck shaping begins now while shoulders continue straight.*

### Shape scoop neck
**Set-up row (RS):** k20, place centre **16 sts** on a holder, join a second ball of yarn, k20.
You will now work both sides at once with separate balls.

**Both sides, neck decreases (RS):** On the right-hand side (as worn), work to 3 sts before neck edge, k2tog, k1; on the left-hand side, k1, ssk, work to end. *(1 st dec each neck edge)*

Work the neck decreases:
- Every RS row **4 times** *(4 sts dec each side)*
- Then every following 4th row **0 times** (none needed — see check)

After decreasing, **20 − 4 = 16 sts** remain on each shoulder.
*Check: matches Back shoulder count of 16 sts each. ✓*

Work even on each side until armhole measures **21cm**, matching Back to shoulder, ending with a WS row.

### Shape shoulders
Work each shoulder to match the Back:
Bind off 5 sts at each armhole edge twice, then bind off rem 6 sts.
*Check: 5 + 5 + 6 = 16 sts per shoulder. ✓*

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## FINISHING

### Blocking
Block both pieces to the finished measurements above. This relaxes the stocking stitch and sets the waist shaping cleanly. Allow to dry fully before seaming.

### Seam shoulders
With RS together, seam both shoulder seams using mattress stitch or a three-needle bind-off.

### Neckband
With 4mm needles and RS facing, beginning at the right shoulder seam, pick up and knit evenly around the neckline:
- approx. **20 sts** down the left front neck edge
- **16 sts** from the front holder
- **20 sts** up the right front neck edge
- **40 sts** across the back neck (incl. selvedges)

Total approx. **96 sts**. Place a marker and join to work in the round.
Work k1, p1 rib for **5 rounds**. Cast off loosely in rib.
*A loose cast-off keeps the wide scoop from gaping; the ribbing hugs gently for a clean curve.*

### Side seams
With RS together, seam each side from hem to underarm using mattress stitch, carefully matching the waist shaping rows on Front and Back.

### Armhole bands
With 4mm needles and RS facing, beginning at the underarm seam, pick up and knit evenly around each armhole:
- approx. **38 sts** up the back armhole edge
- **38 sts** down the front armhole edge

Total approx. **76 sts** per armhole. Join in the round.
Work k1, p1 rib for **4 rounds**. Cast off loosely in rib.

### Final
Weave in all ends. Give a final light steam/press to the bands. 

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## Fit Notes

- This top is drafted with approx. **2cm negative ease** at the bust so the ribbing and stocking stitch cling and "hug" the figure — exactly the silhouette requested.
- The **8 waist decreases** then **12 bust increases** create the hourglass shape tracing your 84-58.5-73.5cm measurements.
- For a slightly looser fit, simply work the bands at the same 4.5mm needle size, or add 4 cast-on sts (2 per piece) throughout.
- A cotton-linen blend will deepen the drape and breathability for warm-weather wear.

Happy knitting!