purlJam

# CELTIC MIST CABLED & FAIR ISLE CARDIGAN

**MATERIALS**
*   **Yarn**: Worsted weight wool (approx. 200m per 100g).
    *   Main Colour (MC): 800 (900, 1000, 1100, 1200) metres.
    *   Contrast Colour 1 (CC1): 150 metres.
    *   Contrast Colour 2 (CC2): 120 metres.
    *   Contrast Colour 3-6 (CC3-6): 80 metres each.
*   **Needles**: 
    *   4.5mm (US 7) circular needles (80cm and 40cm for sleeves).
    *   3.75mm (US 5) circular needles (for ribbing and collar).
*   **Notions**: 8 stitch markers (4 for raglan, 4 for cable panels), waste yarn, tapestry needle, open-ended zipper (length determined by finished front edge).

**GAUGE** (Tension)
20 sts and 26 rows = 10cm (4") in both Stockinette stitch and Charted Fair Isle pattern on 4.5mm needles, measured after blocking.
*(Note: You may need to go up a needle size for the colorwork sections to maintain consistent tension.)*

**SIZES**
S (M, L, XL, 2XL)
To fit chest: 90 (100, 110, 120, 130) cm.
Finished chest circumference (including 10cm positive ease): 100 (110, 120, 130, 140) cm.

**ABBREVIATIONS**
*   **k**: knit
*   **p**: purl
*   **st(s)**: stitch(es)
*   **m1l / m1r**: make 1 left / make 1 right (raglan increases)
*   **pm**: place marker
*   **sm**: slip marker
*   **RS / WS**: Right Side / Wrong Side
*   **MC / CC**: Main Colour / Contrast Colour
*   **C4F**: Slip 2 sts to cable needle, hold in front, k2, k2 from cable needle.

**NOTES**
1.  The cardigan is worked top-down. 
2.  When working Fair Isle, carry the non-working yarn loosely across the back. Trap floats longer than 5 stitches.
3.  Colour Dominance: Hold the CC (pattern colour) to the left (below) to ensure the motif stands out.
4.  The front edges are worked with a 3-st garter edge to facilitate zipper sewing.

**CHARTS**
*Chart A (Celtic Motif - 8 st repeat)*: 
Used for Yoke and Hem.
Row 1: [k1 CC1, k7 MC] repeat.
Row 2: [k2 CC1, k5 MC, k1 CC1] repeat.
Row 3: [k1 MC, k2 CC1, k3 MC, k2 CC1] repeat.
(Continue following visual grid for 12 rows).

*Chart B (Cable Panel - 12 sts wide)*:
Worked in MC only.
Rows 1-3: Stockinette.
Row 4: p2, C4F, C4F, p2.
Rows 5-8: Stockinette.

**YOKE**
Using 3.75mm needles and MC, cast on 64 (68, 72, 76, 80) sts.
Do not join. Work 4 rows in 1x1 rib.
Switch to 4.5mm needles.
**Set-up Row (RS)**: k10 (11, 12, 13, 14) for Left Front, pm, k10 for Sleeve, pm, k24 (26, 28, 30, 32) for Back, pm, k10 for Sleeve, pm, k10 (11, 12, 13, 14) for Right Front.

**Raglan Increase Row (RS)**: *k to 1 st before marker, m1r, k1, sm, k1, m1l; repeat from * 3 more times, k to end (8 sts increased).
Work WS rows even as they appear.

**Incorporate Colorwork**: On row 10, begin Chart A. Ensure the 8-st repeat is centered on the Back. 
**Math Check**: At Row 10, you will have 104 (108, 112, 116, 120) sts. 
Continue Raglan increases every RS row while following Chart A until you have 264 (288, 312, 336, 360) sts total. 
Yoke depth should measure approx 22 (23, 24, 25, 26) cm.

**BODY**
**Separation Row (RS)**: k to first marker, place sleeve sts on waste yarn, cast on 8 (10, 12, 14, 16) sts for underarm, k across back, place sleeve sts on waste yarn, cast on 8 (10, 12, 14, 16) sts, k to end.
Total Body Stitches: 184 (204, 224, 244, 264) sts.
Work straight in MC. At 15cm from underarm, work Chart B (Cable Panel) on the Left and Right front sections. 
At 30cm, work Chart A (Celtic Motif) once.
Switch to 3.75mm needles and work 5cm in 1x1 rib. Cast off loosely.

**SLEEVES**
Transfer held sts to 4.5mm DPNs or short circulars. Pick up and k the underarm sts.
Work in the round. Decrease 2 sts at the underarm every 8th round. 
Incorporate Chart A at the wrist.
Switch to 3.75mm needles, work 5cm in 1x1 rib. Cast off.

**BUTTON_BANDS (Zipper Facing & Shawl Collar)**
**Front Facings**: With 3.75mm needles and MC, pick up 3 sts for every 4 rows along the front edges. Work 4 rows in k1, p1 rib. Cast off. This provides the "tab" for the zipper.

**Shawl Collar**: Using 3.75mm needles, pick up sts starting from the Right Front (above the ribbing), around the neckline, to the Left Front.
Row 1 (WS): p.
Row 2 (RS): k to 10 sts before end of neck, turn.
Row 3: sl1, p to 10 sts before end, turn.
Continue using Short Rows, working 2 fewer sts each time to create the "shawl" shape at the back neck.
Once collar measures 10cm at the widest point, work 3 rows of 1x1 rib across all sts. Cast off.

**FINISHING**
1.  **Blocking**: Soak garment in lukewarm water with wool wash. Pin to measurements. For Fair Isle, ensure the fabric is stretched slightly to open the motifs and flatten floats.
2.  **Zipper**: Pin the open-ended zipper behind the front rib facings. Hand-sew using a backstitch and matching thread.
3.  **Weaving**: Weave in all CC ends carefully along the back of the work to prevent show-through.