purlJam

<pattern>

# CHILD'S ZIP-FRONT HOODIE
**Machine Knitting Pattern - Intermediate Level**

A cozy, practical hoodie for active kids featuring a full-length zipper, hood, and ribbed edges. Constructed in flat panels for easy assembly and customization.

---

## SIZES
Child's size 10 (fits chest 28-30" / 71-76 cm)
**Finished Measurements:**
- Chest (buttoned): 32" (81 cm)
- Body Length: 18" (46 cm)
- Sleeve Length: 14" (36 cm)

---

## MATERIALS

**Yarn:**
- Worsted weight yarn (#4 Medium)
- Approximately 800-900 yards (730-820 m)
- Sample shown in acrylic/wool blend for durability and washability

**Machine Requirements:**
- Standard gauge knitting machine (4.5mm needle spacing)
- Ribber attachment REQUIRED
- Suitable for punchcard or electronic machines
- Row counter

**Notions:**
- Separating zipper: 16" (40 cm) length in coordinating color
- Waste yarn for cast-on
- Ravel cord
- Cast-on comb and weights
- Transfer tools
- Latch tool for bind-off
- Tapestry needle for seaming
- Stitch markers
- Sewing needle and thread for zipper application

---

## GAUGE

**Stockinette (main fabric):**
22 stitches × 30 rows = 4" (10 cm) square at **T7**

**2×2 Rib (with ribber):**
26 stitches × 34 rows = 4" (10 cm) square at **T5/T5** (main bed/ribber)

**IMPORTANT:** Always knit a gauge swatch and measure after light steaming. Adjust tension dial if necessary to match gauge.

---

## ABBREVIATIONS & TERMS

- **RC** = Row Counter
- **COL** = Carriage On Left
- **COR** = Carriage On Right
- **T** = Tension dial setting (e.g., T7)
- **MB** = Main Bed
- **RB** = Ribber Bed
- **HP** = Hold Position (hold button activated)
- **WY** = Waste Yarn
- **MY** = Main Yarn
- **st(s)** = stitch(es)
- **dec** = decrease
- **inc** = increase
- **2×2 rib** = 2 needles up on main bed, 2 needles up on ribber, alternating

---

## PATTERN NOTES

1. **Ribber Setup:** All ribbed edges use full-pitch 2×2 rib (every other needle on both beds, offset by one needle). Set ribber pitch indicator to P (full pitch).

2. **Stitch Counts:** All body pieces use 176 sts total circumference (88 sts back, 44 sts each front). This provides 32" finished chest.

3. **Shaping Method:** All decreases done by transferring edge stitches inward and bringing empty needles to non-working position. All increases done by bringing needles to working position and picking up running thread.

4. **Row Counter:** Reset to 000 at start of each new piece. RC checkpoints listed throughout.

5. **Seaming:** Use mattress stitch for vertical seams, backstitch for shoulder seams. Block pieces before assembly.

6. **Zipper Installation:** Pin zipper in place before sewing. Use backstitch on wrong side, catching one stitch column on each front edge.

---

## BACK PANEL

**Setup:**
- Main bed: Bring 88 needles to working position (center 0 to left 44, center 0 to right 43)
- Ribber: Set for 2×2 rib configuration in full pitch
- Thread both carriages with MY
- Set tension: **T5/T5** (MB/RB)

**Ribbed Hem:**
1. Using waste yarn and ravel cord, cast on over all 88 needles using closed-edge cast-on method (alternating MB and RB needles).
2. Knit 8 rows WY, ending COR. RC 000.
3. Change to MY. Knit 1 row, hang cast-on comb with evenly distributed weights.
4. Knit in 2×2 rib for **30 rows**. RC 030. (Creates 3.5" / 9 cm ribbing)
5. **Transfer all ribber stitches to main bed** using transfer tools: Each RB stitch transfers to adjacent MB needle on right. You will have 2 sts on every other needle across all 88 original positions.
6. Remove ribber or swing out of working position.
7. Knit 1 row at T5 to secure doubled stitches, ending COR. RC 031.

**Body (Stockinette):**
8. Set tension to **T7**. Begin stockinette.
9. Knit straight in stockinette for **106 rows**. RC 137 (from cast-on). This completes approximately 14" (36 cm) from bottom of rib to armhole.
10. **Check measurement:** Should measure approximately 17.5" (44 cm) from hem edge to needles.

**Armhole Shaping:**
11. **Bind off 4 sts each side:** COR, using latch tool or transfer method, secure and remove 4 sts at right edge, knit to left. COL, secure and remove 4 sts at left edge, knit to right. **80 sts remain.** RC 139.
12. **Decrease 1 st each end every other row 3 times:**
    - COR: Transfer stitch from needle R37 to R36, bring R37 to NWP. Knit to left. COL: Transfer stitch from L37 to L36, bring L37 to NWP. Knit to right. **78 sts remain.** RC 141.
    - Repeat decrease row once more. **76 sts remain.** RC 143.
    - Repeat decrease row once more. **74 sts remain.** RC 145.
13. Knit straight for **36 rows**. RC 181. (Creates 4.8" / 12 cm armhole depth)

**Shoulder Shaping (using hold button):**
14. Set carriage to **HP** (hold position).
15. COR: Push needles R31-R37 to hold position. Knit to left.
16. COL: Push needles L31-L37 to hold position. Knit to right.
17. COR: Push needles R24-R30 to hold position. Knit to left.
18. COL: Push needles L24-L30 to hold position. Knit to right.
19. COR: Push needles R17-R23 to hold position. Knit to left.
20. COL: Push needles L17-L23 to hold position. Knit to right. RC 187.
21. **Center back neck stitches:** 32 sts remain in center (L16 to R16). Using WY, knit 8 rows over these center 32 sts only, then remove on WY (or bind off with latch tool).
22. **Return all held shoulder stitches to working position.** Cancel HP.
23. Working right shoulder only (R17-R37, 21 sts): Knit 8 rows WY, remove on WY. RC doesn't matter for WY.
24. Rehang left shoulder stitches (L17-L37, 21 sts): Knit 8 rows WY, remove on WY.

**Back panel complete.** Remove from machine.

---

## LEFT FRONT PANEL

**Setup:**
- Main bed: Bring 50 needles to working position (center 0 to left 50, OR left 1 to left 50 - choose consistent edge)
- Ribber: Set for 2×2 rib configuration in full pitch (match back setup)
- Thread both carriages with MY
- Set tension: **T5/T5** (MB/RB)

**Note on stitch count:** 50 sts = 44 sts for half-body + 6 sts front band (zipper edge)

**Ribbed Hem:**
1. Using WY and ravel cord, cast on over all 50 needles using closed-edge method.
2. Knit 8 rows WY, ending COR. RC 000.
3. Change to MY. Knit 1 row, hang cast-on comb with weights.
4. Knit in 2×2 rib for **30 rows**. RC 030.
5. **Transfer all ribber stitches to main bed.** Remove ribber.
6. Knit 1 row at T5, ending COR. RC 031.

**Body (Stockinette):**
7. Set tension to **T7**.
8. Knit straight in stockinette for **106 rows**. RC 137.

**Armhole Shaping (side edge only):**
9. **Identify edges:** Assuming needles L1-L50, the LEFT edge (L50 area) is the side seam, RIGHT edge (L1 area) is center front/zipper edge.
10. COR: Knit to left. COL: Using latch tool, bind off 4 sts at left edge (side seam). Knit to right. **46 sts remain.** RC 139.
11. **Decrease 1 st at side edge (left) every other row 3 times:**
    - COR: Knit to left. COL: Transfer st from L46 to L45, bring L46 to NWP. Knit to right. **45 sts.** RC 141.
    - Repeat. **44 sts.** RC 143.
    - Repeat. **43 sts remain.** RC 145.
12. Knit straight for **20 rows**. RC 165. (Front neck shaping begins sooner than back shoulder)

**Front Neck Shaping:**
13. **Identify center front edge:** This is the RIGHT edge of needles (L1 side).
14. COL: Using latch tool, bind off 8 sts at right edge (center front). Knit to left. **35 sts remain.** RC 166.
15. **Decrease 1 st at neck edge every other row 7 times:**
    - COR: Transfer st from L35 to L36, bring L35 to NWP. Knit to left. **34 sts.** RC 167.
    - COL: Knit to right. RC 168.
    - COR: Transfer st from L34 to L35, bring L34 to NWP. Knit to left. **33 sts.** RC 169.
    - Continue this pattern (decrease COR rows only) 5 more times.
    - Final count: **28 sts remain.** RC 179.
16. Knit straight for **2 rows**. RC 181. (Match back armhole length)

**Shoulder Shaping:**
17. Set carriage to **HP**.
18. COL: Knit to right. COR: Push needles L28-L22 (7 sts) to hold. Knit to left.
19. COL: Knit to right. COR: Push needles L21-L15 (7 sts) to hold. Knit to left.
20. COL: Knit to right. COR: Push needles L14-L8 (7 sts) to hold. Knit to left. RC 184.
21. **7 sts remain in work** (L1-L7 area). These form front band extension - knit 8 rows WY, remove on WY.
22. Return held shoulder sts to work (21 sts). Knit 8 rows WY, remove on WY.

**Left front complete.** Remove from machine.

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## RIGHT FRONT PANEL

Work as for Left Front, but **mirror all shaping:**
- Use needles R1-R50 (or center 0 to R49)
- Side seam armhole shaping at RIGHT edge (R50 area)
- Center front neck shaping at LEFT edge (R1 area)
- Mirror shoulder shaping hold positions

**Specific adjustments:**
- Armhole bind-off at COR (right edge/side seam)
- Armhole decreases: Transfer from R46 to R45 (working toward center)
- Neck bind-off at COL (left edge/center front)
- Neck decreases at center front edge (left edge of needle bed)

**Right front complete.** Remove from machine.

---

## SLEEVES (make 2 identical)

**Setup:**
- Main bed: Bring 38 needles to working position for cuff (center 0 to L19, center 0 to R18, OR L1-L38)
- Ribber: Set for 2×2 rib in full pitch
- Set tension: **T5/T5**

**Ribbed Cuff:**
1. Cast on 38 needles using WY and ravel cord closed-edge method.
2. Knit 8 rows WY, ending COR. RC 000.
3. Change to MY, knit 1 row, hang comb and weights.
4. Knit 2×2 rib for **30 rows**. RC 030. (Creates 3.5" / 9 cm cuff)
5. Transfer all ribber sts to main bed. Remove ribber. Knit 1 row T5. RC 031.

**Sleeve Body:**
6. Set tension to **T7**.
7. **Increase for sleeve taper:** Need to increase from 38 sts to 70 sts over approximately 90 rows.
   - Total increases needed: 32