purlJam

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# 🐉 Cinder the Chubby Dragon
### An Original Amigurumi Crochet Pattern

**Finished Size:** Approx. 7–8 inches (18–20 cm) tall when assembled
**Difficulty:** Beginner
**Gauge:** 4 sc = 1 inch (2.5 cm); 4 rows = 1 inch (2.5 cm) worked in continuous rounds with worsted weight yarn and a 3.5 mm hook
*Gauge is not critical for amigurumi, but working tightly prevents stuffing from showing through.*

> **Commercial Use Notice:** This is an original pattern. You are welcome to sell finished items made from this pattern. Please credit the pattern designer. Do not reproduce or resell the written pattern itself.

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## MATERIALS

| Item | Specification |
|---|---|
| **Main Color (MC) yarn** | Worsted weight / Size 4, approx. 80 yards (73 m) |
| **Contrast Color 1 (CC1) yarn** | Worsted weight / Size 4, approx. 20 yards (18 m) — belly patch & horns |
| **Contrast Color 2 (CC2) yarn** | Worsted weight / Size 4, approx. 15 yards (14 m) — wings & spikes (optional) |
| **Crochet hook** | US E-4 / 3.5 mm (or one size smaller than yarn label recommends) |
| **Safety eyes** | Two 12 mm black safety eyes |
| **Polyester fiberfill stuffing** | Small bag, approx. 1–2 oz (30–60 g) |
| **Yarn needle** | Blunt-tipped tapestry needle |
| **Stitch marker** | 1 locking stitch marker |
| **Scissors** | Sharp embroidery or craft scissors |
| **Optional** | Black embroidery floss (nostrils/mouth), pink embroidery floss (blush cheeks), straight pins (assembly) |

### Color Suggestions
- **Pastel Fantasy:** MC = soft lavender or mint green; CC1 = pale yellow or cream; CC2 = light pink or baby blue
- **Classic Dragon:** MC = forest green or deep teal; CC1 = ivory or gold; CC2 = emerald or turquoise
- **Fire Dragon:** MC = burnt orange or coral; CC1 = pale peach; CC2 = golden yellow
- **Night Dragon:** MC = charcoal or navy; CC1 = silver gray; CC2 = deep purple

> ⚠️ **Safety Note:** Safety eyes are not suitable for children under 3 years old. For baby-safe versions, embroider eyes with black yarn instead.

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## ABBREVIATIONS & STITCH GUIDE

| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| **ch** | chain |
| **sl st** | slip stitch |
| **sc** | single crochet (US term) |
| **hdc** | half double crochet (US term) |
| **dc** | double crochet (US term) |
| **inc** | increase — work 2 sc in same stitch |
| **dec** | invisible decrease — insert hook through front loops only of next 2 stitches, yarn over, pull through both, yarn over, pull through 2 loops |
| **MR** | magic ring (adjustable ring) |
| **BLO** | back loop only |
| **FLO** | front loop only |
| **st(s)** | stitch(es) |
| **rnd(s)** | round(s) |
| **[ ]** | stitch count at end of round |
| **( ) x#** | repeat instructions inside parentheses the number of times indicated |
| **PM** | place marker |
| **SM** | slip marker |
| **FO** | fasten off |
| **LT** | leave a long tail for sewing |

### How to Work the Invisible Decrease (dec)
Insert hook into the **front loop only** of the next stitch, then into the **front loop only** of the stitch after that (2 front loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through both loops (2 loops remain on hook). Yarn over and pull through the last 2 loops. This creates a neater, less visible decrease than a standard sc2tog.

### How to Work the Magic Ring (MR)
Make a loop with your yarn (tail end on top). Insert hook through the loop, yarn over and pull up a loop, chain 1 to secure. Work the required number of single crochets into the ring. Pull the tail to close the ring tightly.

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## PATTERN NOTES

1. All pieces are worked in **continuous rounds** (spiral) unless otherwise stated. Do **not** join rounds with a slip stitch unless instructed.
2. Use a **stitch marker** in the first stitch of each round and move it up as you work to track your rounds.
3. Stuff pieces **firmly** as you go — it becomes difficult to add stuffing once the opening is too small.
4. Leave a **long tail** (approx. 12 inches / 30 cm) when fastening off pieces that will be sewn to the body.
5. Use **straight pins** to position pieces before sewing to ensure symmetrical placement.
6. When the pattern says **[X]**, that is your **stitch count check** — count your stitches at the end of that round to confirm accuracy.

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## PIECE CHECKLIST

Before assembly, you should have made:
- [ ] 1 Head
- [ ] 1 Body
- [ ] 2 Arms (make 2)
- [ ] 2 Legs (make 2)
- [ ] 1 Tail
- [ ] 2 Wings (make 2)
- [ ] 2 Horns (make 2)
- [ ] 1 Belly Patch (optional)
- [ ] 4–6 Spikes (optional)

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## INSTRUCTIONS

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### PIECE 1: HEAD
**Yarn:** MC
**Makes:** 1

**Rnd 1:** MR, 6 sc into ring. Pull ring closed. [6]
**Rnd 2:** Inc in each st around. [12]
**Rnd 3:** (Sc, inc) x6. [18]
**Rnd 4:** (2 sc, inc) x6. [24]
**Rnds 5–9:** Sc in each st around. (5 rounds even) [24]

> 📍 **Safety Eye Placement:** After Rnd 9, insert your safety eyes between Rnds 6 and 7, approximately 6 stitches apart (about 1.5 inches / 4 cm apart). Secure the washers firmly on the inside. This is your last chance to place eyes before the opening becomes too small.

**Rnd 10:** (2 sc, dec) x6. [18]
**Rnd 11:** (Sc, dec) x6. [12]

> 🧵 **Stuff the head firmly now.** Use small pieces of stuffing and pack it in well with a pencil or stuffing tool.

**Rnd 12:** Dec x6. [6]

**FO, LT.** Thread the tail through the 6 remaining stitches with a yarn needle, pull tight to close the hole. Weave in the short starting end; leave the long tail for sewing to body.

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### PIECE 2: BODY
**Yarn:** MC
**Makes:** 1

**Rnd 1:** MR, 6 sc into ring. [6]
**Rnd 2:** Inc in each st around. [12]
**Rnd 3:** (Sc, inc) x6. [18]
**Rnd 4:** (2 sc, inc) x6. [24]
**Rnd 5:** (3 sc, inc) x6. [30]
**Rnds 6–12:** Sc in each st around. (7 rounds even) [30]
**Rnd 13:** (3 sc, dec) x6. [24]
**Rnd 14:** (2 sc, dec) x6. [18]

> 🧵 **Stuff the body firmly now.**

**Rnd 15:** (Sc, dec) x6. [12]
**Rnd 16:** Dec x6. [6]

**FO, LT.** Close hole as for head. Leave long tail for assembly.

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### PIECE 3: ARMS
**Yarn:** MC
**Makes:** 2 — work the same instructions twice

**Rnd 1:** MR, 6 sc into ring. [6]
**Rnd 2:** Inc in each st around. [12]
**Rnds 3–8:** Sc in each st around. (6 rounds even) [12]
**Rnd 9:** (Sc, dec) x4. [8]

> 🧵 **Stuff lightly** — arms should be soft and squishy, not stiff.

**Rnd 10:** Dec x4. [4]

**FO, LT.** Close hole. Leave long tail for assembly.

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### PIECE 4: LEGS
**Yarn:** MC
**Makes:** 2 — work the same instructions twice

**Rnd 1:** MR, 6 sc into ring. [6]
**Rnd 2:** Inc in each st around. [12]
**Rnd 3:** Sc in BLO of each st around. (This creates a ridge line for the foot.) [12]
**Rnds 4–9:** Sc in each st around. (6 rounds even) [12]
**Rnd 10:** (Sc, dec) x4. [8]

> 🧵 **Stuff lightly.**

**Rnd 11:** Dec x4. [4]

**FO, LT.** Close hole. Leave long tail for assembly.

> 💡 **Tip:** The BLO ridge in Rnd 3 creates a subtle "foot" definition. If desired, use a contrasting color for Rnds 1–3 (claws/paws) and switch to MC for Rnds 4–11.

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### PIECE 5: TAIL
**Yarn:** MC
**Makes:** 1

The tail starts narrow (tip) and is worked toward the wider base.

**Rnd 1:** MR, 4 sc into ring. [4]
**Rnd 2:** Sc in each st around. [4]
**Rnd 3:** (Sc, inc) x2. [6]
**Rnds 4–5:** Sc in each st around. (2 rounds even) [6]
**Rnd 6:** (2 sc, inc) x2. [8]
**Rnds 7–8:** Sc in each st around. (2 rounds even) [8]
**Rnd 7:** (3 sc, inc) x2. [10]

> *Note: Round numbers above continue correctly — verify your count is 10 sts after this round.*

**Rnds 8–9:** Sc in each st around. (2 rounds even) [10]
**Rnd 10:** (4 sc, inc) x2. [12]
**Rnds 11–12:** Sc in each st around. (2 rounds even) [12]

> 🧵 **Stuff the tail lightly and continuously** as you work — the narrow tip is difficult to stuff after closing. A chopstick or pencil helps pack stuffing into the tip.

**FO, LT.** Do **not** close the opening — leave it open for easier sewing onto the body. Leave a long tail for assembly.

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### PIECE 6: WINGS
**Yarn:** CC2
**Makes:** 2 — work the same instructions twice

Wings are worked as a flat oval shape, then lightly stuffed (or left unstuffed for a flatter look).

**Rnd 1:** Ch 5. Starting in 2nd ch from hook:
- 3 sc across the chain (stitches 2, 3, 4)
- 3 sc in the last ch (stitch 5) — this turns the corner
- Working back along the other side of the foundation chain: 2 sc
- 2 sc in the first ch (to close the oval) [10]

**Rnd 2:** Inc, 2 sc, inc x3, 2 sc, inc x2. [16]

> *Stitch count check: 1+2+3+2+2+2+1+1+1+1 = 16. ✅*

**Rnd 3:** Sc, inc, 2 sc, (sc, inc) x3, 2 sc, (sc, inc) x2. [21]

> *Stitch count check: 21 ✅*

**Rnd 4:** Sl st in each st around. (This creates a neat border edge.) [21]

**FO, LT.** Weave in one end. Leave the other end as a long tail for sewing.

> 💡 **Optional texture:** For a webbed wing look, after Round 2, work (sc, ch 2, skip 1 st) around and join. This creates an open lace edge but is slightly more advanced.

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### PIECE 7: HORNS
**Yarn:** CC1
**Makes:** 2 — work the same instructions twice

Horns are small tight cones.

**Rnd 1:** MR, 4 sc into ring. [4]
**Rnd 2:** (Sc, inc) x2. [6]
**Rnd 3:** Sc in each st around. [6]
**Rnd 4:** (2 sc, inc) x2. [8]
**Rnd 5:** Sc in each st around. [8]

**FO, LT.** Do **not** stuff horns — they hold their shape without stuffing when worked tightly. Leave long tail for assembly.

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### PIECE 8: BELLY PATCH (Optional)
**Yarn:** CC1
**Makes:** 1

The belly patch is a flat oval sewn onto the front of the body for a two-tone effect.

**Row 1:** Ch 4. Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch across. Ch 1, turn. [3]
**Row 2:** Inc, sc, inc. Ch 1, turn. [5]
**Row 3:** Sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. [5]
**Row 4:** Inc, 3 sc, inc. Ch 1, turn. [7]
**Rows 5–6:** Sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. [7]
**Row 7:** Dec, 3 sc, dec. Ch 1, turn. [5]
**Row 8:** Dec, sc, dec. [3]

**FO, LT.** Leave long tail for sewing. The oval should be approximately 1.5 inches (4 cm) tall and 1 inch (2.5 cm) wide.

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### PIECE 9: SPIKES / DORSAL FINS (Optional)
**Yarn:** CC2
**Makes:** 4–6 (make as many as desired)

Spikes run down the back from head to tail.

**Rnd 1:** MR, 4 sc into ring. [4]
**Rnd 2:** (Sc, inc) x2. [6]
**Rnd 3:** Sc in each st around. [6]

**FO, LT.** Do **not** stuff. Leave long tail for sewing.

> 💡 Make 2 larger spikes (work 1 additional round after Rnd 3: 2 sc, inc x2, 2 sc [8]) for the top of the back, and 2–4 smaller spikes for tapering toward the tail.

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## ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS

Assemble in the following order. Use **straight pins** to test placement before sewing. Sew all pieces using the **whip stitch** or **flat stitch** with the long yarn tails and a blunt tapestry needle.

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### STEP 1: Attach Belly Patch to Body
If using the belly patch, center it on the **front** of the body, approximately 2 rounds up from the bottom. Pin in place. Sew around the entire edge with the long CC1 tail using small whip stitches. Weave in ends.

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### STEP 2: Attach Head to Body
Position the **closed end of the head** (where you pulled the 6-stitch hole closed) facing **upward**. The head sits on top of the body, offset slightly toward the front (not perfectly centered — this gives a "looking forward" tilt).

Pin through 6–8 stitches of the head base to the top of the body. Sew firmly all the way around. The head should not wobble. Weave in all ends.

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### STEP 3: Attach Arms
Position each arm on either **side of the body**, approximately at Round 10 of the body (about 1/3 from the top). The arm top should be flush against the body. Use pins to check both sides are symmetrical.

Sew each arm through 4–6 stitches all the way around its opening. Weave in ends.

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### STEP 4: Attach Legs
Position each leg on the **underside/front-bottom** of the body, at approximately Round 2–3 from the bottom. They should angle slightly outward so the dragon appears to "sit."

Sew each leg through 4–6 stitches. Weave in ends.

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### STEP 5: Attach Tail
Position the **open end** of the tail at the **back-center** of the body, at the base (Round 1–2 area). The tail should curve slightly upward and to one side for a playful look.

Sew firmly around the full opening of the tail (all 12 sts). This is the most important joint for durability. Weave in ends.

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### STEP 6: Attach Wings
Position each wing on either **side of the body**, at approximately Rounds 7–10 (the upper back/shoulder area). Wings should angle slightly backward and upward.

Sew each wing along approximately 4–5 stitches at its narrow base. Weave in ends.

> 💡 For a more dramatic wing pose, sew only the bottom 2–3 stitches so the wing fans outward freely.

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### STEP 7: Attach Horns
Position the two horns on top of the head, approximately 3–4 stitches apart and centered. They should angle slightly outward (away from each other) rather than straight up.

Sew each horn through 4–6 stitches at its base. Weave in ends.

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### STEP 8: Attach Spikes (Optional)
If making dorsal spikes, position them in a line from **the back of the head** down to the **base of the tail**. Use pins to space evenly.

Suggested placement: 1 spike on the back of the head, 2–3 down the body back, 1–2 on the tail. Sew each spike through 3–4 stitches. Weave in ends.

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## FINISHING TOUCHES

### Embroidered Nostrils
Using **black embroidery floss** (3 strands), embroider two small round French knots (or 2–3 satin stitches each) on the front-lower area of the head, approximately 2–3 rows above where the head meets the body, centered between the eyes. Space them about 0.5 inches (1.3 cm) apart.

**French knot instructions:** Thread needle, bring up through fabric at nostril position, wrap floss around needle 2–3 times, insert needle back into fabric very close to where it came up, pull through slowly to form a tight knot on the surface.

### Embroidered Smile (Optional)
Using **black embroidery floss** (2 strands), embroider a small curved smile below the nostrils using a simple backstitch or chain stitch. Work 3–4 stitches in a gentle upward curve approx. 0.4 inches (1 cm) wide.

### Blush Cheeks (Optional)
Using **pink embroidery floss** (6 strands), embroider 3–4 small parallel satin stitches in a small oval cluster on each cheek (below and beside each safety eye). Alternatively, use a **pink eyeshadow or chalk pastel** applied with a cotton swab for a softer blush look.

### Eye Highlight
Using **white embroidery floss** (2 strands), place one tiny straight stitch or French knot at the upper-right of each safety eye to add a bright, lively highlight. This small detail dramatically increases the expressiveness of the face.

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## FINISHING & CARE

- **Weave in all ends** securely — run the tail through several stitches in multiple directions, then trim close.
- **Block if needed:** Lightly mist the finished dragon with water and reshape by hand. Allow to air dry.
- **Washing:** Hand wash in cool water with mild soap. Reshape and air dry flat. Do not machine wash — safety eyes and stuffing may be damaged.
- **For gifting to children under 3:** Replace safety eyes with embroidered eyes using black yarn. Ensure all sewn joints are reinforced with double-stitching.

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## QUICK REFERENCE: STITCH COUNT SUMMARY

| Piece | Starting Sts | Max Sts | Finishing Sts |
|---|---|---|---|
| Head | 6 | 24 | 6 (closed) |
| Body | 6 | 30 | 6 (closed) |
| Arms (x2) | 6 | 12 | 4 (closed) |
| Legs (x2) | 6 | 12 | 4 (closed) |
| Tail | 4 | 12 | 12 (open) |
| Wings (x2) | 10 (chain oval) | 21 | — (flat) |
| Horns (x2) | 4 | 8 | 8 (open) |
| Belly Patch | 3 (rows) | 7 | 3 (flat) |
| Spikes (x4–6) | 4 | 6–8 | — (open) |

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## YARN YARDAGE ESTIMATE

| Color | Yardage | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| MC (main body color) | ~80 yards (73 m) | Head, body, arms, legs, tail |
| CC1 (belly/horns) | ~20 yards (18 m) | Belly patch, 2 horns |
| CC2 (wings/spikes) | ~15 yards (14 m) | 2 wings, 4–6 spikes |

**Total:** approx. 115 yards (105 m) of worsted weight yarn across all colors.

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*Pattern © Original Design. For personal use and handmade item sales only. Do not reproduce the written pattern in any format.*

*Happy crocheting! 🐉✨*