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# Classic Compound Raglan Pullover

A seamless, top-down stockinette pullover featuring **compound raglan** shaping. Unlike a standard raglan, the compound raglan alternates between two increase rhythms — a slower rate at the start of the yoke (to widen the shoulders gently) followed by a faster rate (to widen the upper chest and back quickly). The result is a smoother shoulder line, less underarm bulk, and a more flattering fit than a basic raglan.

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## Skill Level
Intermediate

## Sizes
Small (Medium, Large, XL, 2XL) — to fit bust 86–91 (96–101, 106–111, 117–122, 127–132) cm / 34–36 (38–40, 42–44, 46–48, 50–52) inches.

**Finished bust:** 96 (102, 112, 122, 132) cm / 38 (40, 44, 48, 52) in — approx. 5 cm / 2 in positive ease.

**Yoke depth:** 22 (24, 25, 26, 28) cm / 8¾ (9½, 10, 10¼, 11) in.

**Body length from underarm:** 35 cm / 13¾ in (adjustable).

**Sleeve length from underarm:** 43 cm / 17 in (adjustable).

Sample instructions written for **size Medium**; other sizes in parentheses.

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## Materials

- **Yarn:** DK weight (8-ply), wool or wool blend
  - Approx. 1000 (1100, 1250, 1400, 1550) m / 1090 (1200, 1370, 1530, 1700) yds
  - Typically 5 (6, 6, 7, 8) × 100 g balls
- **Needles:**
  - 4 mm (UK 8 / US 6) circular needle, 80 cm cable, for body
  - 4 mm (UK 8 / US 6) DPNs or short circular for sleeves
  - 3.5 mm (UK 9–10 / US 4) circular needle, 80 cm, for ribbing
  - 3.5 mm DPNs or short circular for cuffs
- **Notions:** 5 stitch markers (one unique for BOR), 2 stitch holders or scrap yarn, tapestry needle

## Tension

22 sts × 30 rounds = 10 cm / 4 in over stocking stitch on 4 mm needles, after blocking.
**Always work a tension swatch.**

## Abbreviations (UK terminology)

- **k** – knit
- **p** – purl
- **st(s)** – stitch(es)
- **st st** – stocking stitch (knit every round in the round)
- **M1L** – make 1 left-leaning (lift bar between sts from front, k tbl)
- **M1R** – make 1 right-leaning (lift bar between sts from back, k into front)
- **sm** – slip marker
- **BOR** – beginning of round
- **rep** – repeat
- **rnd(s)** – round(s)

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## Construction Notes: Compound Raglan

The yoke is divided into **two phases**:

- **Phase 1 (gentle):** increases every 4th round — narrow shoulders form first.
- **Phase 2 (standard):** increases every 2nd round — yoke widens quickly to underarm.

Both phases use the same 8-st increase round (2 sts at each of 4 raglan markers).

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## Pattern

### Neckband

With **3.5 mm** circular needle, cast on **88 (96, 100, 104, 112) sts** loosely. Join in the round, being careful not to twist. Place unique BOR marker.

Work **k1, p1 rib** for 5 cm / 2 in.

### Set-up Round (Yoke)

Change to **4 mm** circular needle.

**Set-up rnd:** k15 (16, 17, 18, 19) for left back, pm, k14 (16, 16, 16, 18) for left sleeve, pm, k30 (32, 34, 36, 38) for front, pm, k14 (16, 16, 16, 18) for right sleeve, pm, k15 (16, 17, 18, 19) for right back to BOR.

**Stitch check (M):** 16 + 16 + 32 + 16 + 16 = 96 ✓

Markers now sit at the **4 raglan lines**.

### Raglan Increase Round

**Inc rnd:** *k to 1 st before marker, M1R, k1, sm, k1, M1L; rep from * 3 more times, k to end of rnd. (8 sts increased)

### Phase 1 — Compound Raglan (Gentle Shoulder)

Work Phase 1 as follows:

- Rnd 1: Inc rnd
- Rnds 2–4: knit

Repeat these 4 rnds a total of **4 (4, 5, 5, 6) times.**

**After Phase 1 (M):** 96 + (8 × 4) = **128 sts**.
- Back: 16 + 4 = 20 sts each side (40 total)
- Sleeves: 16 + 8 = 24 sts each
- Front: 32 + 8 = 40 sts

### Phase 2 — Standard Raglan (Rapid Yoke)

- Rnd 1: Inc rnd
- Rnd 2: knit

Repeat these 2 rnds a total of **8 (9, 10, 12, 13) times.**

**After Phase 2 (M):** 128 + (8 × 9) = **200 sts**... let me recheck for M: working **9** repeats. 128 + 72 = 200 sts.

Stitch distribution check for M:
- Back: 20 + 9 = 29 sts each side → 58 total
- Sleeves: 24 + 18 = 42 sts each → 84 total
- Front: 40 + 18 = 58 sts
- **Total:** 58 + 84 + 58 = 200 ✓

**Total yoke increase rounds: 12 (13, 15, 17, 19).**

Try on. Yoke should reach about 2.5 cm / 1 in above underarm. Knit even if more depth is needed.

### Separate Sleeves from Body

**Separation rnd:** k29 (right back) to first marker, remove marker, place next 42 (sleeve) sts on holder, cast on **8 (8, 10, 12, 14) sts** for underarm using backward-loop, pm for new side seam, cast on **8 (8, 10, 12, 14) more sts**, k58 (front) to next marker, remove marker, place next 42 (sleeve) sts on holder, cast on **16 (16, 20, 24, 28) sts** for second underarm with new side marker placed centrally, k29 to BOR.

**Body stitch count (M):** 58 (back) + 16 (underarm) + 58 (front) + 16 (underarm) = **148 sts**.

Sizes overall body sts: 132 (148, 164, 180, 196).

Quick check M: target finished bust 102 cm; 148 sts ÷ 22 sts per 10 cm = 67.3 cm half-circumference... wait — 148 sts is full circumference: 148 ÷ 2.2 = 67.3 cm. That gives 67 cm bust — too small. Recalculate target:

102 cm × 2.2 sts/cm = **224 sts** needed at bust for M.

**Corrected stitch counts:**

Cast on at neckline: 88 (96, 100, 104, 112).
After yoke total sts: need ~224 for M finished bust.

Let me recompute Phase 2 reps for M:
- Required body sts before underarm CO = 224 − 16 (underarm) = 208 sts on body (front + back).
- Sleeve sts at separation: aim 56 sts (before underarm) → final sleeve 56 + 8 = 64 sts; 64 ÷ 2.2 = 29 cm upper arm ✓.
- Total at separation: 208 + 2 × 56 = 320 sts.
- Increase from CO 96 → 320 = 224 sts ÷ 8 = **28 increase rounds.**

Use **Phase 1: 8 reps** (32 sts added) and **Phase 2: 20 reps** (160 sts added) → total 192 sts added → 96 + 192 = 288 sts. Still short. Need 28 increase rounds: Phase 1 = 6, Phase 2 = 22 → 6+22 = 28 ✓, adds 224 sts → 96 + 224 = 320 ✓.

**Please use these corrected repeat counts:**

#### Corrected Phase Repeats

| Size | S | M | L | XL | 2XL |
|------|---|---|---|----|-----|
| Phase 1 reps (every 4th rnd) | 6 | 6 | 7 | 7 | 8 |
| Phase 2 reps (every 2nd rnd) | 20 | 22 | 24 | 27 | 29 |
| Total inc rnds | 26 | 28 | 31 | 34 | 37 |
| Sts after yoke | 296 | 320 | 348 | 376 | 408 |
| Sleeve sts at separation | 50 | 56 | 60 | 64 | 70 |
| Underarm CO (×2) | 14 | 16 | 18 | 20 | 22 |
| **Body sts** | 210 | 224 | 246 | 268 | 290 |
| **Body bust cm** | 95 | 102 | 112 | 122 | 132 |
| **Sleeve sts after CO** | 64 | 72 | 78 | 84 | 92 |

Maths check M: 224 sts ÷ 2.2 sts/cm = 101.8 cm ≈ 102 cm ✓.
Sleeve M: 72 ÷ 2.2 = 32.7 cm upper-arm circumference ✓.

### Body

Place new BOR marker at left side seam centre. Work in **st st (knit every rnd)** until body measures **30 cm / 12 in** from underarm, or 5 cm / 2 in short of desired length.

Change to **3.5 mm** circular needle. Work **k1, p1 rib** for 5 cm / 2 in. Cast off loosely in pattern.

### Sleeves (work both the same)

Transfer 50 (56, 60, 64, 70) held sleeve sts to **4 mm** DPNs or short circular. Beginning at centre of underarm, pick up and knit 7 (8, 9, 10, 11) sts along the underarm CO, knit across sleeve sts, pick up and knit 7 (8, 9, 10, 11) sts along the remaining underarm CO. Place BOR marker at centre underarm.

**Sleeve total: 64 (72, 78, 84, 92) sts.**

Knit 6 rnds straight.

**Dec rnd:** k1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. (2 sts decreased)

Repeat Dec rnd every **8th** rnd a further **13 (15, 16, 17, 19) times.**

**Sleeve sts after decreases (M):** 72 − (16 × 2) = 40 sts. Cuff check: 40 ÷ 2.2 = 18 cm ✓.

Final sts: 36 (40, 44, 48, 52).

Knit straight until sleeve measures **38 cm / 15 in** from underarm.

Change to **3.5 mm** DPNs. Work **k1, p1 rib** for 5 cm / 2 in. Cast off loosely in pattern.

Repeat for second sleeve.

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## Finishing

- Weave in all ends on the wrong side.
- Wet block to schematic measurements: lay flat, pat into shape, dry away from direct heat or sunlight.

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## Schematic Measurements (Size M)

- Bust: 102 cm
- Yoke depth: 24 cm
- Body length (underarm to hem): 35 cm
- Upper arm: 33 cm
- Cuff: 18 cm
- Sleeve length: 43 cm

Enjoy your seamless compound raglan — a polished, professional finish without a single seam.