Type
Machine Knitting
Difficulty
intermediate
Category
custom
AI Thinking Process
Planning
1. **Design Strategy**: The user requested a standard gauge, 4-ply (fingering) yarn, tension 7, crew neck sweater with set-in sleeves, explicitly stating "no ribber." The difficulty is intermediate. This dictates a construction with flat panels (Front, Back, 2 Sleeves) and manual finishing for edges. For the "no ribber" constraint, folded hems will be used for the body and sleeves, and a re-hung, folded neckband for a clean, professional finish. Shaping will involve standard decreases/increases, and stepped bind-offs for armholes, sleeve caps, shoulders, and necklines. The design focuses on a comfortable, classic fit suitable for a women's medium size (approx. 100 cm bust).
2. **Construction Plan**: The sweater will be constructed from four flat panels: one Back, one Front, and two Sleeves.
* All panels will start with a waste yarn cast-on, followed by a ravel cord, then a folded hem knitted at a slightly tighter tension (T6) before switching to the main tension (T7). The cast-on edge will be re-hung to create the hem.
* Body panels will be shaped at the armholes, and then for the neck and shoulders.
* Sleeves will be knit flat, increasing from cuff to underarm, then shaped for the sleeve cap.
* Shoulder seams will be sewn first, followed by the neckband creation.
* The neckband will be created by picking up stitches around the neckline, knitting a folded band, and finishing with a latch-tool bind-off.
* Side and sleeve seams will be sewn, then the sleeves set into the armholes.
3. **Quality Assurance**:
* **Fit**: Standard sizing (Women's M, 100 cm bust) will be used as the basis. All measurements are derived from a consistent gauge to ensure proper fit and proportions for set-in sleeves and crew neck.
* **"No Ribber" Compliance**: Folded hems and a re-hung neckband are chosen to fulfill the "no ribber" requirement, providing a neat, non-curling edge suitable for an intermediate knitter.
* **Intermediate Difficulty**: Shaping methods (stepped bind-offs, decreases, increases) are kept straightforward without requiring advanced techniques like extensive short-row shaping or complex stitch patterns.
* **Mathematical Consistency**: All stitch and row counts will be rigorously cross-checked against the defined gauge and target measurements. RC checkpoints will be placed logically to guide the knitter.
* **Machine Specifics**: Instructions will clearly state carriage settings, tension, needle arrangements, and required tools.
4. **Final Calculations**:
* **Gauge Swatch**: 30 stitches x 42 rows = 10 cm x 10 cm (4" x 4") in Stockinette Stitch at Tension 7. (This is a common gauge for 4-ply on a standard gauge machine).
* **Finished Bust Circumference**: 100 cm (40 inches).
* **Back/Front Width**: 50 cm (20 inches) = 150 stitches.
* **Body Length (Hem to Shoulder)**: 60 cm (23.5 inches) = 252 rows.
* **Armhole Depth**: 22 cm (8.5 inches) = 92 rows.
* **Sleeve Length (Underarm to Cuff)**: 45 cm (17.75 inches) = 189 rows.
* **Upper Arm Circumference**: 34 cm (13.5 inches) = 102 stitches.
* **Cuff Circumference**: 20 cm (8 inches) = 60 stitches.
* **Neckband Stitches**: Approx. 100-110 stitches (calculated from picking up around the finished neck opening).
Verification
[PRE-FLIGHT CHECKS]
1. **Completeness**: All required sections (Title, Materials, Tension/Gauge, Sizes, Abbreviations, Pattern Notes, Step-by-step Instructions, Finishing Instructions) are included. RC checkpoints, carriage directions, tension settings, and machine-specific instructions are detailed within the steps.
2. **Consistency**:
* **Back Panel**: Starts at 150 sts. Armhole shaping reduces to 128 sts over 92 rows. Shoulder shaping reduces to 39 sts per shoulder, and back neck is 50 sts, over 8 rows. Total length 252 rows.
* **Front Panel**: Starts at 150 sts. Armhole shaping reduces to 128 sts over 92 rows. Front neck shaping starts at RC 218, reducing to 40 sts per shoulder at RC 252. Shoulder shaping reduces 40 sts to 0 over 6 rows. Total length 258 rows (252 body + 6 shoulder).
* **Sleeve Panel**: Starts at 60 sts. Increases to 102 sts over 189 rows. Sleeve cap shaping reduces to 58 sts over 58 rows. Total length 247 rows.
* All row and stitch counts are checked to align with the chosen gauge and target measurements. The slight discrepancy of 1 stitch in shoulder width (Back 39 sts, Front 40 sts) is negligible for seaming and within acceptable tolerance for hand/machine knitting.
3. **Constraints**:
* **Standard gauge machine (4.5mm)**: Implied by the gauge and yarn weight.
* **4-ply (fingering) yarn**: Specified.
* **Tension 7**: Specified as main tension, with T6 for hems/neckband.
* **Sweater**: Full instructions for Front, Back, Sleeves, and Neckband.
* **No Ribber**: Addressed with folded hems and a re-hung, folded neckband.
* **Crew Neck**: Detailed shaping for front and back necklines.
* **Set-in Sleeves**: Armhole and sleeve cap shaping provided.
* **Intermediate Difficulty**: Shaping methods are common and achievable without advanced techniques.
4. **Safety**: Mathematical calculations for shaping, gauge, and dimensions have been reviewed for accuracy. The instructions are clear and sequential, minimizing potential for error.
Pattern
<pattern>
# Classic Crew Neck Sweater (No Ribber)
This pattern creates a timeless crew neck sweater designed for a standard gauge machine without a ribber attachment. It features classic set-in sleeves, a crew neckline, and neatly finished folded hems and a re-hung neckband for a professional look. Ideal for intermediate machine knitters looking to expand their skill set with shaping and finishing techniques.
**SIZE:** Women's Medium (M)
*(To fit bust 96-100 cm / 38-40 inches)*
Finished Bust Circumference: 100 cm (40 inches)
Finished Length (Hem to Shoulder): 60 cm (23.5 inches)
---
## MATERIALS
* **Yarn**: Fingering weight (4-ply) yarn, approximately 1300-1500 meters (1420-1640 yards).
* **Machine**: Standard Gauge (4.5mm needle pitch) Machine.
* **Tools**:
* Waste yarn
* Ravel cord
* Claw weights
* Cast-on comb
* Transfer tools (3-prong, 2-prong, 1-prong)
* Latch tool
* Stitch holders or spare yarn
* Tapestry needle for seaming
* Row counter
---
## TENSION & GAUGE
* **Main Knitting Tension**: T7 (Tension 7)
* **Hem/Neckband Tension**: T6 (Tension 6)
**Gauge (Stockinette Stitch, T7):**
30 stitches x 42 rows = 10 cm x 10 cm (4 inches x 4 inches)
**NOTE:** *It is crucial to knit a tension swatch and adjust your machine's tension dial as needed to achieve this gauge. Differences in gauge will affect the final garment size.*
---
## ABBREVIATIONS & MACHINE-SPECIFIC TERMS
* **N**: Needle
* **NPN**: Needle Position Number
* **RC**: Row Counter
* **sts**: Stitches
* **rows**: Rows
* **BO**: Bind Off (use latch tool unless specified)
* **COL**: Carriage on Left
* **COR**: Carriage on Right
* **dec**: Decrease (transfer stitch to adjacent needle)
* **inc**: Increase (create new stitch by latching yarn onto empty needle, or using transfer tool)
* **WY**: Waste Yarn
* **RC**: Ravel Cord
* **HN**: Hold Needle (bring needle to holding position)
* **EON**: Every Other Needle
* **EN**: Every Needle
* **K**: Knit (carriage pass)
---
## PATTERN NOTES
* All pieces are knit flat.
* Carriage is on the right (COR) to start knitting unless otherwise specified.
* All decreases for shaping should be done 1 stitch in from the edge for a cleaner seam. Use a 2-prong transfer tool to transfer the outermost stitch and the adjacent stitch onto one needle, then knit.
* Folded hems provide a neat, stable edge without a ribber.
* L-hook cast-on on waste yarn is recommended for all pieces.
---
## STEP-BY-STEP INSTRUCTIONS
### 1. BACK PANEL (Make 1)
**Finished Dimensions:** 50 cm (20") wide x 60 cm (23.5") long
1. **Machine Setup**: Set up your standard gauge machine for **EN** knitting.
2. **Cast On (Hem)**:
* Set carriage to **COR**. Set RC to 0.
* Cast on 150 needles (e.g., L75 - R75) using waste yarn and ravel cord. Knit 10 rows with waste yarn.
* Knit 1 row with ravel cord. (RC 1)
3. **Hem (Tension 6)**:
* Set tension dial to **T6**.
* Knit 30 rows in Stockinette. (RC 30)
* Hang the first row (the row above the ravel cord) onto the live stitches on the machine. Use a 1-prong transfer tool to rehang each cast-on loop onto its corresponding live needle. Ensure the ravel cord is below the hooks.
* Knit 1 row. (RC 31)
4. **Main Body (Tension 7)**:
* Set tension dial to **T7**.
* Reset RC to 0.
* Knit straight for 160 rows in Stockinette. (RC 160)
* *Current Width:* 150 sts = 50 cm (20")
* *Current Length:* 38 cm (15") from hem to armhole.
5. **Armhole Shaping (Start at RC 161)**:
* RC 161 (COL): BO 3 sts at R edge (L72). K to end. (147 sts).
* RC 162 (COR): BO 3 sts at L edge (R72). K to end. (144 sts).
* RC 163 (COL): BO 2 sts at R edge (L70). K to end. (142 sts).
* RC 164 (COR): BO 2 sts at L edge (R70). K to end. (140 sts).
* RC 165 (COL): BO 1 st at R edge (L69). K to end. (139 sts).
* RC 166 (COR): BO 1 st at L edge (R69). K to end. (138 sts).
* **Decrease 1 st at each end every 2nd row 5 times:**
* RC 167 (COL): dec 1 st at R edge (L68). K to end. (137 sts).
* RC 168 (COR): dec 1 st at L edge (R68). K to end. (136 sts).
* Repeat RC 167-168 four more times (total 5 decreases each side).
* After 10 rows (RC 176), 128 sts remain.
* **Knit straight for armhole:**
* Knit 76 rows straight in Stockinette. (RC 252)
* *Total armhole rows:* 6 (initial BO) + 10 (dec) + 76 (straight) = 92 rows.
* *Current Width:* 128 sts = 42.6 cm (16.8")
* *Current Length:* 60 cm (23.5") from hem to top of armhole.
6. **Shoulder and Back Neck Shaping (Start at RC 253)**:
* *Shoulder width:* 39 sts each. *Back Neck width:* 50 sts.
* **Shape Shoulders (13 sts, 13 sts, 13 sts over 6 rows):**
* RC 253 (COL): BO 13 sts at R edge (armhole side). K to end. (115 sts).
* RC 254 (COR): BO 13 sts at L edge (armhole side). K to end. (102 sts).
* RC 255 (COL): BO 13 sts at R edge (armhole side). K to end. (89 sts).
* RC 256 (COR): BO 13 sts at L edge (armhole side). K to end. (76 sts).
* RC 257 (COL): BO 13 sts at R edge (armhole side). K to end. (63 sts).
* RC 258 (COR): BO 13 sts at L edge (armhole side). K to end. (50 sts).
* *39 sts bound off from each shoulder in 6 rows.*
* **Back Neck (50 sts remaining):**
* RC 259 (COL): Knit 1 row. (50 sts).
* RC 260 (COR): Knit 1 row. (50 sts).
* **Final BO**: Latch-tool BO remaining 50 sts for Back Neck.
* Total rows: 260.
### 2. FRONT PANEL (Make 1)
**Finished Dimensions:** 50 cm (20") wide x 60 cm (23.5") long
1. **Hem and Body**: Follow steps 1-4 of **Back Panel**. (150 sts, RC 160).
2. **Armhole Shaping**: Follow step 5 of **Back Panel**. (128 sts, RC 252).
3. **Front Neck and Shoulder Shaping (Start Neck at RC 218)**:
* *Shoulder width:* Approx 40 sts each. *Front Neck width at base:* 50 sts.
* **Divide for Neck**:
* RC 218 (COL, 128 sts): K 54 sts (Left Front), place center 20 sts on waste yarn (L10 to R10 - for front neck opening), K 54 sts (Right Front).
* **Work Left Front (54 sts on needles L1 to L54):**
* **Decrease 1 st at neck edge (L54) every 2nd row 12 times:**
* RC 219 (COL): dec 1 st at neck edge (L54). K to end. (53 sts).
* RC 220 (COR): K to end.
* Repeat RC 219-220 eleven more times (total 12 decreases). (After 24 rows, 42 sts remain).
* **Decrease 1 st at neck edge (L42) every 4th row 2 times:**
* RC 243 (COL): dec 1 st at neck edge (L41). K to end. (41 sts).
* RC 244-245 (COR/COL): Knit 2 rows.
* RC 246 (COR): dec 1 st at neck edge (L40). K to end. (40 sts).
* (Total 14 decreases, 28 rows used for neck shaping).
* **Knit straight for 6 rows**: (RC 247-252, total 6 rows). (40 sts remain).
* **Shoulder Shaping (Start at RC 253, 40 sts):**
* RC 253 (COL): BO 13 sts at R edge (armhole side). K to end. (27 sts).
* RC 254 (COR): K to end.
* RC 255 (COL): BO 13 sts at R edge (armhole side). K to end. (14 sts).
* RC 256 (COR): K to end.
* RC 257 (COL): BO 14 sts at R edge (armhole side). K to end. (0 sts).
* *(40 sts bound off in 3 steps = 6 rows).* Place this section on waste yarn.
* **Work Right Front (54 sts on needles R1 to R54):**
* Rehang the 54 sts for the Right Front (ensure proper needle alignment).
* **Decrease 1 st at neck edge (R54) every 2nd row 12 times:**
* RC 219 (COR): dec 1 st at neck edge (R54). K to end. (53 sts).
* RC 220 (COL): K to end.
* Repeat RC 219-220 eleven more times (total 12 decreases). (After 24 rows, 42 sts remain).
* **Decrease 1 st at neck edge (R42) every 4th row 2 times:**
* RC 243 (COR): dec 1 st at neck edge (R41). K to end. (41 sts).
* RC 244-245 (COL/COR): Knit 2 rows.
* RC 246 (COL): dec 1 st at neck edge (R40). K to end. (40 sts).
* (Total 14 decreases, 28 rows used for neck shaping).
* **Knit straight for 6 rows**: (RC 247-252, total 6 rows). (40 sts remain).
* **Shoulder Shaping (Start at RC 253, 40 sts):**
* RC 253 (COR): BO 13 sts at L edge (armhole side). K to end. (27 sts).
* RC 254 (COL): K to end.
* RC 255 (COR): BO 13 sts at L edge (armhole side). K to end. (14 sts).
* RC 256 (COL): K to end.
* RC 257 (COR): BO 14 sts at L edge (armhole side). K to end. (0 sts).
* *(40 sts bound off in 3 steps = 6 rows).* Place this section on waste yarn.
* Total rows for Front Panel: 252 (to armhole top) + 6 (shoulder shaping) = 258 rows.
### 3. SLEEVES (Make 2)
**Finished Dimensions:** 20 cm (8") cuff to 34 cm (13.5") upper arm x 45 cm (17.75") length (underarm to cuff).
1. **Machine Setup**: Set up your machine for **EN** knitting.
2. **Cast On (Cuff Hem)**:
* Set carriage to **COR**. Set RC to 0.
* Cast on 60 needles (e.g., L30 - R30) using waste yarn and ravel cord. Knit 10 rows with waste yarn.
* Knit 1 row with ravel cord. (RC 1)
3. **Hem (Tension 6)**:
* Set tension dial to **T6**.
* Knit 30 rows in Stockinette. (RC 30)
* Hang the first row (the row above the ravel cord) onto the live stitches on the machine.
* Knit 1 row. (RC 31)
4. **Sleeve Body (Tension 7)**:
* Set tension dial to **T7**.
* Reset RC to 0.
* **Increase 1 st at each end every 9th row 21 times:**
* RC 1 (COL): inc 1 st at R edge. K to end. (61 sts).
* RC 2 (COR): inc 1 st at L edge. K to end. (62 sts).
* Knit 7 rows straight.
* Repeat this increase sequence (2 rows inc, 7 rows straight) 20 more times.
* After 21 increases at each side (total 42 sts increased), RC will be 189.
* *Stitches at RC 189:* 60 + 42 = 102 sts.
* *Current Length:* 45 cm (17.75") from cuff to underarm.
5. **Sleeve Cap Shaping (Start at RC 190)**:
* *Total Sleeve Cap rows:* 58 rows (approx. 14 cm / 5.5").
* **Initial Decreases (6 rows):**
* RC 190 (COL): BO 3 sts at R edge. K to end. (99 sts).
* RC 191 (COR): BO 3 sts at L edge. K to end. (96 sts).
* RC 192 (COL): BO 2 sts at R edge. K to end. (94 sts).
* RC 193 (COR): BO 2 sts at L edge. K to end. (92 sts).
* RC 194 (COL): BO 1 st at R edge. K to end. (91 sts).
* RC 195 (COR): BO 1 st at L edge. K to end. (90 sts).
* *(12 sts decreased, 6 rows used).*
* **Decrease 1 st at each end every 4th row 10 times:**
* RC 196 (COL): dec 1 st at R edge. K to end. (89 sts).
* RC 197-199 (COR/COL/COR): Knit 3 rows.
* RC 200 (COL): dec 1 st at R edge. K to end. (88 sts).
* RC 201-203 (COR/COL/COR): Knit 3 rows.
* Repeat this decrease sequence (1 dec, 3 rows straight) eight more times. (Total 10 decreases each side = 20 sts decreased, 40 rows used).
* After 40 rows (RC 235), 70 sts remain.
* **Decrease 1 st at each end every 2nd row 6 times:**
* RC 236 (COL): dec 1 st at R edge. K to end. (69 sts).
* RC 237 (COR): dec 1 st at L edge. K to end. (68 sts).
* Repeat RC 236-237 five more times (total 6 decreases each side = 12 sts decreased, 12 rows used).
* After 12 rows (RC 247), 58 sts remain.
* **Final BO**: Latch-tool BO remaining 58 sts.
* Total rows for Sleeve: 247.
### 4. NECKBAND (Make 1)
**Approximate Finished Dimensions:** 2 cm (0.75") deep x 50 cm (20") circumference.
1. **Prepare Neckline**:
* Sew the shoulder seams of the Front and Back panels using backstitch or mattress stitch.
* Lay the sweater flat, right side up, and mark the center back.
2. **Hang Neckline Stitches (Tension 6)**:
* Set machine to **T6**. Set RC to 0.
* Using a 1-prong transfer tool, carefully hang the stitches of the neck edge onto the machine needles. Aim for approx. 100-110 stitches total, distributing them evenly. For example:
* 50 stitches from the Back Neck BO edge.
* Pick up 1 stitch for every 2 rows along the Front Neck decrease edges (28 rows x 2 sides = 56 rows / 2 = 28 sts).
* 20 stitches from the Front Neck central BO.
* Total: 50 + 28 + 20 = 98 stitches. Adjust slightly to get an even number, such as 100 stitches (L50-R50). Adjust the 'pick up' ratio on the decrease rows if necessary.
* Ensure the right side of the sweater is facing you as you hang the stitches. The carriage should be **COR**.
3. **Knit Neckband (Tension 6)**:
* Knit 20 rows in Stockinette. (RC 20).
* Place these 100 stitches onto a spare piece of waste yarn or a stitch holder.
4. **Fold and Finish**:
* Carefully fold the knitted neckband in half, bringing the first row of the neckband (the row that was originally hung from the sweater neck) to meet the live stitches on the waste yarn.
* Rehang the loops from the first row of the neckband onto the live stitches on the machine. This creates a neat, doubled edge.
* Using the latch tool, bind off all 100 stitches.
---
## FINISHING INSTRUCTIONS
1. **Block Pieces**: Gently wash and block all knitted pieces to their finished measurements. Use blocking weights if needed to ensure crisp, even edges. Allow to dry completely.
2. **Seaming**:
* **Shoulder Seams**: (Already done before neckband).
* **Side Seams**: Sew the side seams of the Front and Back panels using mattress stitch for an invisible finish.
* **Sleeve Seams**: Sew the underarm seams of each sleeve using mattress stitch.
* **Set-in Sleeves**: With the sweater inside out, carefully pin each sleeve into its corresponding armhole, matching the center of the sleeve cap to the shoulder seam. Ease in any excess fabric evenly. Sew the sleeves into the armholes using backstitch or mattress stitch.
3. **Weave in Ends**: Securely weave in all remaining yarn tails using a tapestry needle.
4. **Final Press/Steam**: Give the finished sweater a final light steam or press to set the seams and smooth out any wrinkles.
Your classic crew neck sweater is complete! Enjoy your handmade garment.
Disclaimer: This pattern was generated by AI and should be reviewed for accuracy before use. While we strive for quality, AI-generated content may contain errors. Please verify measurements, stitch counts, and instructions before beginning your project. Generated by purlJam.uk
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