purlJam

# CLASSIC DROP-SHOULDER PULLOVER

## MACHINE_SETUP

**Machine Configuration:** Standard gauge knitting machine with ribber attachment
**Bed Gauge:** 200 needles (4.5mm spacing)
**Cast-on Method:** Closed edge cast-on using ravel cord and cast-on comb
**Weight Placement:** Claw weights every 20-30 needles, hung 10cm below needles
**Ribber Setup:** Both beds engaged for hem and neckband, main bed only for body
**Tension Dial Suggestions:** 
- Main yarn (fingering weight): Tension 6-7
- Waste yarn: Tension 8
- Ribber tension: One number higher than main bed

**Initial Swatch Instructions:**
1. Cast on 40 needles using waste yarn at tension 8
2. Knit 20 rows waste yarn, RC000-020
3. Switch to main yarn, tension 6, knit 50 rows, RC021-070
4. Release from machine and steam lightly to measure gauge

## MATERIALS

**Yarn:** 1000-1400g fingering weight yarn (approximately 1800-2500 yards)
**Suggested Yarns:** Merino wool, wool/nylon blend, or high-quality acrylic
**Tools Required:**
- Standard gauge knitting machine with ribber
- Cast-on comb (102-127 needles capacity)
- Ravel cord
- Claw weights (8-10 pieces)
- Transfer tools (single and 3-prong)
- Latch tool for bind-off
- Tapestry needles for seaming
- Steam iron and pressing cloth
- Sweater blocking board (recommended)

## GAUGE_AND_TENSION

**Stitch Gauge:** 28 stitches = 10cm (4") at tension 6
**Row Gauge:** 40 rows = 10cm (4") at tension 6
**Measuring Instructions:** Steam swatch lightly with damp pressing cloth. Allow to cool completely before measuring. Measure in center of swatch, avoiding edge stitches.

**Gauge Check:** Your finished swatch should measure approximately 14cm wide by 12.5cm tall after steaming.

## SCHEMATIC_AND_SIZES

**Sizes:** S (M, L, XL, 2XL)
**Finished Chest:** 102 (112, 122, 132, 142) cm [40 (44, 48, 52, 56)"]
**Finished Length:** 61 (63, 65, 67, 69) cm [24 (24.75, 25.5, 26.25, 27)"]
**Sleeve Length:** 45 (46, 47, 48, 49) cm [17.75 (18, 18.5, 19, 19.25)"]

**Key Measurements:**
- Back width: 51 (56, 61, 66, 71) cm
- Front width: 51 (56, 61, 66, 71) cm  
- Shoulder width: 15 (16, 17, 18, 19) cm
- Neck opening: 20cm wide x 7cm deep
- Sleeve width at cuff: 20 (21, 22, 23, 24) cm
- Sleeve width at armhole: 35 (37, 39, 41, 43) cm

## BACK_PANEL

**Cast On:** 143 (157, 171, 185, 199) stitches using closed edge cast-on

**Setup (RC000-010):**
- Thread machine with waste yarn, tension 8
- Cast on using ravel cord and cast-on comb from needle 72L to 71R (72L to 85R, 86L to 85R, 93L to 92R, 100L to 99R)
- COL: Knit 10 rows waste yarn

**Ribbed Hem (RC011-040):**
- Engage ribber, both beds tension 6/7
- COL: Insert main yarn, knit across
- Work 1x1 rib for 30 rows (approximately 7.5cm)
- Note carriage position changes: COL to COR each pass

**Body Section (RC041-200, 204, 208, 212, 216):**
- Disengage ribber, main bed only, tension 6
- RC041: COL, hang weights if needed
- Knit straight until RC200 (204, 208, 212, 216)
- Mark for armhole placement at RC180 (184, 188, 192, 196)

**Neck Shaping (Final 20 rows):**
- RC201 (205, 209, 213, 217): COR, begin neck shaping
- Hold center 56 stitches (28L to 28R)
- Work shoulders separately:
  - Move center needles to hold position using 3-prong transfer tool
  - Complete right shoulder: RC202-220, working on needles 29R to 71R
  - Complete left shoulder: RC202-220, working on needles 72L to 29L
- Remove from machine using waste yarn

## FRONT_PANEL

**Cast On and Hem:** Work identical to back panel through RC180 (184, 188, 192, 196)

**Neck Opening (RC181-220):**
- RC181 (185, 189, 193, 197): COR, begin front neck shaping
- Hold center 42 stitches (21L to 21R) - narrower than back neck
- Shape neck gradually:
  - Every 2nd row, move 2 additional needles each side to hold
  - Continue until 56 stitches total in hold position (matching back)
- Complete shoulders matching back panel row count
- Remove using waste yarn, mark for easy identification

## SLEEVES

**Make 2 identical sleeves**

**Cast On:** 56 (59, 62, 65, 68) stitches at cuff

**Cuff Ribbing (RC000-030):**
- Cast on from needle 28L to 28R (30L to 29R, 31L to 31R, 33L to 32R, 34L to 34R)
- Work waste yarn setup, RC000-010
- Engage ribber, work 1x1 rib for 30 rows

**Sleeve Increases (RC031-180):**
- Disengage ribber, main bed tension 6
- Increase schedule: Every 4th row, bring out 1 needle each end
- RC035: Bring needle 29L and 29R into work (31L/30R, 32L/32R, 34L/33R, 35L/35R)
- Continue increases every 4 rows
- Final needle count: 98 (104, 110, 115, 121) stitches
- Final needles in work: 49L to 49R (52L to 52R, 55L to 55R, 58L to 57R, 61L to 60R)

**Sleeve Cap (RC181-190):**
- Work 10 rows even (no increases)
- Remove with waste yarn
- Steam lightly and measure: should be 35 (37, 39, 41, 43) cm wide

## NECKBAND

**Preparation:**
- Rehang back neck stitches on needles 28L to 28R
- Using transfer tool, pick up approximately 60 stitches evenly around front neck opening
- Total stitches on machine: approximately 116 stitches

**Ribbed Neckband:**
- Engage ribber, tension 5/6 (slightly tighter than body)
- Work 1x1 rib for 20 rows (approximately 5cm)
- Bind off using sewn bind-off method or latch tool bind-off

**Bind-off Instructions:**
1. Cut yarn leaving 1m tail
2. Thread tail through latch tool
3. Starting at right edge, draw yarn through each stitch
4. Pull gently to create elastic edge

## FINISHING

**Steaming:**
1. Steam all pieces lightly using damp pressing cloth
2. Block to measurements on sweater board if available
3. Allow to dry completely (2-4 hours)

**Assembly Order:**
1. **Shoulder Seams:** Join shoulders using mattress stitch, matching row counts exactly
2. **Neckband:** Complete neckband attachment if not already sewn
3. **Sleeve Attachment:** 
   - Mark center of sleeve cap
   - Match to shoulder seam
   - Pin sleeve cap to armhole opening (marked at RC180)
   - Sew using backstitch, easing sleeve cap to fit
4. **Side Seams:** Join side seams from hem to armhole marker
5. **Sleeve Seams:** Join underarm seams from cuff to armpit

**Final Pressing:**
- Steam seams lightly from wrong side
- Press hems and cuffs flat
- Steam entire garment with damp cloth, reshaping to measurements

**Blocking Tips:**
- Use sweater board or towels to maintain shape while drying
- Measure periodically during drying to ensure proper dimensions
- Allow 24 hours for complete setting

## ABBREVIATIONS

**COL:** Carriage on Left  
**COR:** Carriage on Right  
**RC:** Row Counter  
**L/R:** Left/Right (needle positions)  
**1x1 rib:** Single rib (alternating knit/purl stitches)  
**Hold position:** Needles moved forward, not knitting  
**Transfer tool:** Manual tool for moving stitches between needles  
**Latch tool:** Hook tool for binding off and seaming  
**Waste yarn:** Contrasting yarn used for temporary cast-on  
**Ravel cord:** Thin cord used in cast-on, later removed  
**Cast-on comb:** Weighted comb to maintain even tension during cast-on  
**Mattress stitch:** Invisible seaming technique for joining pieces  
**Sewn bind-off:** Elastic bind-off using tapestry needle and yarn tail