purlJam

# CLASSIC DROP-SHOULDER PULLOVER

**Machine Knitting Pattern - Intermediate Level**
*A timeless pullover with clean lines and comfortable fit*

## MACHINE_SETUP

**Machine Configuration:**
- Standard gauge machine (4.5mm bed)
- Ribber required for neckband and hem
- Cast-on comb and weights
- Ravel cord for waste yarn cast-on

**Initial Setup:**
1. Thread machine with waste yarn, set tension dial to 5
2. Cast on using ravel cord method across required needles
3. Knit 8-10 rows waste yarn at tension 5
4. Insert ravel cord, knit 1 row
5. Change to main yarn, adjust tension to 4 for stockinette
6. Hang cast-on comb and distribute weights evenly

**Swatch Instructions:**
Cast on 40 needles, knit 40 rows at tension 4 in stockinette. Steam lightly and measure after 30 minutes rest.

## MATERIALS

**Yarn:** 1200-1600g (1300-1750 yds) fingering weight yarn
- Small/Medium: 1200g
- Large/XL: 1400g  
- 2XL: 1600g

**Suggested Yarns:**
- Sock yarn (75% wool, 25% nylon)
- Fine merino wool
- Wool/silk blend

**Tools Required:**
- Transfer tools
- Latch tool for bind-off
- Cable needles (if adding cables)
- Tapestry needle for seaming
- Steaming equipment

## GAUGE_AND_TENSION

**Gauge:** 32 stitches and 44 rows = 10cm (4") at tension 4
**Ribbing Gauge:** 36 stitches = 10cm (4") at tension 3

**Tension Settings:**
- Main fabric: Dial 4
- Ribbing: Dial 3
- Cast-on/bind-off: Dial 5

**Measuring:** Steam swatch lightly, lay flat for 30 minutes before measuring. Adjust tension dial up or down to achieve correct gauge.

## SCHEMATIC_AND_SIZES

**Finished Measurements:**

| Size | Chest | Length | Sleeve Length |
|------|-------|---------|---------------|
| S | 102cm (40") | 60cm (23.5") | 45cm (17.5") |
| M | 107cm (42") | 62cm (24.5") | 46cm (18") |
| L | 112cm (44") | 64cm (25") | 47cm (18.5") |
| XL | 117cm (46") | 66cm (26") | 48cm (19") |
| 2XL | 122cm (48") | 68cm (26.5") | 49cm (19.5") |

**Ease:** 5-10cm (2-4") positive ease recommended

## BACK_PANEL

**Cast On:** 
- S: 164 sts, M: 172 sts, L: 180 sts, XL: 188 sts, 2XL: 196 sts

**Instructions:**
1. **RC000:** Set up waste yarn cast-on across required needles
2. **RC000-010:** Knit waste yarn rows, insert ravel cord
3. **RC010:** Change to main yarn, tension 4, COL
4. **RC010-030:** Knit hem in stockinette (20 rows = 4.5cm)
5. **RC030:** Mark for fold line with contrasting thread
6. **RC030-264 (S), 030-274 (M), 030-284 (L), 030-294 (XL), 030-304 (2XL):** Continue in stockinette
7. Hang additional weights every 50 rows to maintain even tension

**Shoulder Shaping:**
- **Final 6 rows:** Hold 14 needles each side every 2 rows (COL: hold left, COR: hold right)
- **Last row:** Place remaining center stitches on holder for neck

**Needle Movement for Shoulders:**
- RC at shoulder: Hold needles gradually
- Row 1 (COL): Transfer 14 needles right side to hold
- Row 2 (COR): Transfer 14 needles left side to hold  
- Row 3 (COL): Transfer next 14 needles right side to hold
- Continue until only center neck stitches remain active

## FRONT_PANEL

Work exactly as Back Panel through RC240 (all sizes).

**Neck Shaping begins:**
- **RC241:** COL position, place center 32 stitches on holder
- **RC242-end:** Work each side separately

**Left Side Neck Shaping:**
- RC242 (COR): Hold 3 needles at neck edge
- RC244 (COR): Hold 2 needles at neck edge  
- RC246 (COR): Hold 2 needles at neck edge
- RC248 (COR): Hold 1 needle at neck edge
- Continue straight to match back shoulder shaping

**Right Side Neck Shaping:**
- RC243 (COL): Hold 3 needles at neck edge
- RC245 (COL): Hold 2 needles at neck edge
- RC247 (COL): Hold 2 needles at neck edge  
- RC249 (COL): Hold 1 needle at neck edge
- Continue straight to match back shoulder shaping

**Complete shoulder shaping to match back panel**

## SLEEVES

**Cast On:** 104 sts (all sizes)

**Instructions:**
1. **RC000-010:** Waste yarn setup and ravel cord
2. **RC010:** Change to main yarn, tension 4
3. **RC010-030:** Work even in stockinette (cuff)
4. **RC030:** Begin increases

**Increase Schedule:**
- Bring out 1 needle each side every 6 rows
- Continue until you have:
  - S: 164 sts (30 increases each side)
  - M: 172 sts (34 increases each side)  
  - L: 180 sts (38 increases each side)
  - XL: 188 sts (42 increases each side)
  - 2XL: 196 sts (46 increases each side)

**Final Row Count:**
- S: RC210, M: RC230, L: RC250, XL: RC270, 2XL: RC290

**Increase Method:**
- COL: Bring out 1 needle on right
- COR: Bring out 1 needle on left  
- Pick up bar between stitches for new loops
- Continue for 6 rows, then repeat

## NECKBAND

**Setup:**
1. Attach ribber, set both beds to tension 3
2. Rehang all neck stitches onto main bed
3. Transfer every other stitch to ribber using transfer tool

**Stitches to pickup:**
- Back neck: 52 sts
- Front neck: 32 sts (from holder) + 40 sts (pickup around curve)
- Total: approximately 124 sts

**Ribbing:**
1. **RC000-020:** Work 1x1 rib for 20 rows
2. Set carriage for circular knitting
3. **RC020:** Latch tool bind-off or sewn bind-off

**Bind-off Method:**
Use latch tool to bind off in rib pattern, maintaining stretch

## FINISHING

**Steaming:**
1. Steam all pieces lightly on wrong side
2. Block to measurements using sweater board if available
3. Allow to dry completely (2-4 hours)

**Assembly Order:**
1. **Shoulders:** Mattress stitch or backstitch seams
2. **Neck:** Ensure neckband seam aligns with left shoulder
3. **Sleeves:** Mark center of sleeve cap, align with shoulder seam
4. **Side seams:** Start from hem, work continuously to sleeve cuff
5. **Hems:** Fold at marked line, blind hem stitch in place

**Seaming Details:**
- Use mattress stitch for side seams (invisible from right side)
- Backstitch shoulder seams for stability
- Set in sleeves by pinning at quarter points first
- Press seams lightly with steam, avoid flattening texture

**Final Blocking:**
Lay flat, steam lightly, shape to measurements. Allow to rest flat overnight before first wear.

## ABBREVIATIONS

**RC:** Row Counter
**COL:** Carriage on Left  
**COR:** Carriage on Right
**sts:** stitches
**cm:** centimeters
**":** inches
**S, M, L, XL, 2XL:** Small, Medium, Large, Extra Large, 2X Large

**Machine Terms:**
- **Hold:** Move needles to hold position
- **Transfer:** Move stitches between needles using transfer tool
- **Bring out:** Move needles from non-working to working position
- **Tension dial:** Numbered dial controlling yarn tension (1=loose, 10=tight)
- **Ravel cord:** Smooth cord for separating waste yarn from main fabric

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*Pattern tested on standard gauge machine. Adjust needle counts proportionally for mid-gauge machines. For bulky gauge, reduce stitch counts by 25%.*