purlJam

# Classic Fingering Weight Mittens

**Description:**
A timeless, intermediate-level mitten pattern designed for 4-ply/fingering weight yarn. These mittens feature a durable ribbed cuff, a comfortable anatomical thumb gusset, and a shaped top. Knitted in the round, the finer gauge creates a dense, warm fabric perfect for colourwork or solid shades.

**Difficulty:** Intermediate

**Sizes:**
1 (2, 3, 4, 5)
To fit Hand Circumference: 13 (15, 17.5, 20, 22.5) cm
*Roughly: Toddler (Child, Adult Small, Adult Medium, Adult Large)*

**Finished Measurements:**
Unstretched Circumference: 12 (14.5, 17.5, 20, 22.5) cm
*Designed with 0 to 0.5 cm negative ease for a snug fit.*

**Materials:**
*   **Yarn:** 35 (45, 60, 75, 90) grams of fingering weight yarn (approx. 400m/100g). High wool content fibre recommended.
*   **Needles:**
    *   2.25mm double pointed needles (DPNs) or circular needle for Magic Loop (for cuff).
    *   2.5mm double pointed needles or circular needle for Magic Loop (for hand).
*   **Notions:** 3 Stitch markers (1 unique for Start of Round), waste yarn or stitch holder, tapestry needle.

**Tension (Gauge):**
30 stitches and 44 rounds = 10 cm x 10 cm in stockinette stitch on 2.5mm needles.

**Abbreviations (UK Terminology):**
*   **k:** knit
*   **p:** purl
*   **st(s):** stitch(es)
*   **k2tog:** knit 2 stitches together (right-leaning decrease)
*   **ssk:** slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
*   **m1R:** make 1 right (lift bar from back, knit through front)
*   **m1L:** make 1 left (lift bar from front, knit through back)
*   **PM:** place marker
*   **SM:** slip marker
*   **RS:** right side

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## INSTRUCTIONS

### CUFF
Using 2.25mm needles, cast on **36 (44, 52, 60, 68)** sts. Join in the round, being careful not to twist. Place unique marker for Start of Round (BOR).

**Ribbing Round:** *K2, p2; repeat from * to end.
Repeat Ribbing Round until cuff measures 5 (6, 7, 8, 9) cm, or to desired length.

### HAND SETUP
Switch to 2.5mm needles.
**Setup Round:** Knit all sts.

### THUMB GUSSET
The gusset is worked differently for the Left and Right mittens to ensure the seam/jog remains on the inner wrist side.

**Left Mitten Gusset Setup:**
Knit **17 (21, 25, 29, 33)**, PM, m1R, k1, m1L, PM, knit to end.
*[Stitch Count Check: 36 (44, 52, 60, 68) start + 2 inc = 38 (46, 54, 62, 70) sts]*
*Note: The stitches between the markers are the Gusset Stitches.*

**Right Mitten Gusset Setup:**
Knit **1**, PM, m1R, k1, m1L, PM, knit to end.
*[Stitch Count Check: 36 (44, 52, 60, 68) start + 2 inc = 38 (46, 54, 62, 70) sts]*

**Gusset Increases (Both Hands):**
*   **Round 1:** Knit to marker, SM, knit to marker, SM, knit to end.
*   **Round 2:** Knit to marker, SM, m1R, knit to marker, m1L, SM, knit to end.
    *[Math: Previous Count + 2 sts = New Count]*

Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 until there are **11 (13, 17, 21, 23)** sts between the markers.
End after a Round 1 (plain knit round).

**Separation Round:**
Knit to marker, remove marker. Place the **11 (13, 17, 21, 23)** gusset sts onto waste yarn. Using the backward loop method, cast on **1** st (to bridge the gap). Remove second marker. Knit to end.
*[Stitch Count Verification: Total sts on needle should now return to original Cast On number: 36 (44, 52, 60, 68) sts]*

### UPPER HAND
Continue working in stockinette (knit every round) until the mitten measures **10 (12, 14, 16, 18.5) cm** from the separation round (where the thumb joins), or until the mitten reaches the tip of the little finger.

### TOP SHAPING
**Setup for Decrease:**
If not using Magic Loop or 2 sets of DPNs, arrange stitches so they are divided evenly into two halves:
*   Half 1 (Back of Hand): **18 (22, 26, 30, 34)** sts.
*   Half 2 (Palm): **18 (22, 26, 30, 34)** sts.

**Decrease Round:** *K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts of half, k2tog, k1; repeat from * for second half.
*[Math Check: 4 sts decreased per round]*

**Plain Round:** Knit all sts.

Repeat **Decrease Round** and **Plain Round** alternating until **20 (20, 24, 28, 32)** sts remain total.

Then, work **Decrease Round** only (every round) until **8 (8, 12, 12, 12)** sts remain total.

Cut yarn leaving a 20cm tail. Thread tail through remaining stitches, pull tight to close the top, and secure on the inside.

### THUMB
Place the **11 (13, 17, 21, 23)** held gusset sts onto 2.5mm needles.
Pick up and knit **1** st from the gap where you cast on earlier, plus **1** extra st from the side of the gap to prevent a hole (for a total of 2 picked up sts).
*[Thumb Stitch Count: 13 (15, 19, 23, 25) sts]*

Distribute stitches and join in the round.
**Next Round:** Knit all sts. If you picked up an extra stitch to close a gap and the thumb feels too loose, k2tog the two picked-up stitches on this round.

Knit straight until thumb measures **3 (3.5, 5, 6, 6.5) cm**, or reaches the middle of the thumb nail.

**Thumb Decrease:** *K2tog; repeat from * to last 1 (1, 1, 1, 1) st, k1 (1, 1, 1, 1).
Cut yarn, thread through remaining sts, and pull tight.

### FINISHING
Weave in all ends on the inside.
Block the mittens: Soak in lukewarm water with wool wash for 15 minutes. Squeeze out excess water (do not wring). Lay flat to dry, shaping them to the correct dimensions.