purlJam

# CLASSIC HEEL-FLAP SOCKS

## MATERIALS
- **Yarn:** 400-450 yards worsted weight yarn (sample knit in wool or wool blend)
- **Needles:** Set of 4 or 5 double-pointed needles size US 5 (3.75mm) for ribbing and US 7 (4.5mm) for main pattern, or size needed to obtain gauge
- **Notions:** Tapestry needle, stitch markers, cable needle (optional)

## GAUGE
20 stitches and 26 rounds = 4" (10cm) in stockinette stitch on larger needles
**It is essential to check gauge for proper fit**

## SIZES
Small (Medium, Large, Extra Large, 2XL)
**Finished foot circumference:** 7½ (8½, 9½, 10½, 11½)" / 19 (21.5, 24, 26.5, 29)cm
**Finished foot length:** 8½ (9½, 10½, 11½, 12½)" / 21.5 (24, 26.5, 29, 31.5)cm

## ABBREVIATIONS
- CO: cast on
- k: knit
- p: purl
- k2tog: knit 2 together
- ssk: slip, slip, knit
- sl1: slip 1 stitch purlwise
- pm: place marker
- rnd(s): round(s)
- st(s): stitch(es)
- rep: repeat

## NOTES
- Sock is worked from cuff down with a traditional heel flap and gusset construction
- Numbers for smallest size are given first, with larger sizes in parentheses
- Distribute stitches evenly across 3 or 4 double-pointed needles
- Change to larger needles after ribbing for main sock body

## BACK (LEG)
**Cuff:**
With smaller needles, CO 36 (40, 44, 48, 52) sts. Divide evenly onto 3 needles: 12-12-12 (14-13-13, 15-15-14, 16-16-16, 18-17-17) sts. Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist. Place marker for beginning of round.

Work in k2, p2 ribbing for 1½" (3.5cm).

**Leg:**
Change to larger needles.
Work in stockinette stitch (knit every round) for 6 (6½, 7, 7½, 8)" / 15 (16.5, 18, 19, 20)cm from cast-on edge.

## LEFT_FRONT (HEEL FLAP)
The heel flap is worked back and forth on half the total stitches.

**Set up:**
K9 (10, 11, 12, 13), then slip the next 18 (20, 22, 24, 26) sts onto one needle for heel flap. Place remaining 18 (20, 22, 24, 26) sts on holder(s) for instep.

**Heel Flap (worked flat):**
Row 1 (RS): *Sl1, k1; rep from * across.
Row 2 (WS): Sl1, purl to end.
Rep Rows 1-2 for 18 (20, 22, 24, 26) rows total, ending with a WS row.

**Turn Heel:**
Row 1 (RS): K10 (11, 12, 13, 14), ssk, k1, turn.
Row 2 (WS): Sl1, p3, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 3: Sl1, k4, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 4: Sl1, p5, p2tog, p1, turn.
Continue in this manner, working 1 more st before the decrease each row until all heel sts are worked, ending with a WS row: 10 (12, 12, 14, 14) sts remain.

## RIGHT_FRONT (GUSSET)
**Gusset pickup:**
With RS facing and continuing with heel needle:
- Pick up and knit 9 (10, 11, 12, 13) sts along left side of heel flap
- With new needle, work across 18 (20, 22, 24, 26) held instep sts in stockinette
- With another needle, pick up and knit 9 (10, 11, 12, 13) sts along right side of heel flap, then knit 5 (6, 6, 7, 7) heel sts

Total: 46 (52, 56, 62, 66) sts distributed as:
- Needle 1: 14 (16, 17, 19, 20) sts
- Needle 2: 18 (20, 22, 24, 26) sts
- Needle 3: 14 (16, 17, 19, 20) sts

**Gusset decreases:**
Rnd 1: 
- Needle 1: Knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1
- Needle 2: Knit across
- Needle 3: K1, ssk, knit to end

Rnd 2: Knit all sts.
Rep Rnds 1-2 until 36 (40, 44, 48, 52) sts remain.

## SLEEVES (FOOT)
Continue in stockinette stitch until foot measures 6½ (7½, 8½, 9½, 10½)" / 16.5 (19, 21.5, 24, 26.5)cm from back of heel, or 2" (5cm) less than desired finished length.

## BUTTON_BANDS (TOE SHAPING)
**Toe decreases:**
Rearrange stitches so there are 18 (20, 22, 24, 26) sts on top needle and 9 (10, 11, 12, 13) sts each on two bottom needles.

Rnd 1:
- Top needle: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1
- Bottom needle 1: K1, ssk, knit to end
- Bottom needle 2: Knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1

Rnd 2: Knit all sts.

Rep Rnds 1-2 until 16 (16, 20, 20, 24) sts remain.
Rep Rnd 1 only until 8 sts remain.

## FINISHING
Cut yarn leaving 12" tail. Thread through remaining stitches and pull tight to close toe. Weave in all ends securely.

**Blocking:** Gently wash socks in cool water with wool wash. Roll in towel to remove excess water. Lay flat or use sock blockers to shape and air dry.

**Make second sock:** Work identical to first sock.

**Care Instructions:** Hand wash in cool water and lay flat to dry for best results and longest wear.