purlJam

# CLASSIC MACHINE-KNIT SOCKS

A beginner-friendly sock pattern worked flat on a single-bed knitting machine and seamed, perfect for learning the basics of machine-knit socks. Features a comfortable ribbed cuff, stockinette leg, heel flap with turn, and shaped toe.

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## MACHINE SETUP

**Machine Type:** Standard or mid-gauge flat-bed knitting machine

**Bed Configuration:** Main bed only (no ribber required)

**Tension Dial Settings:**
- Main bed: T6-7 (adjust based on your yarn and desired fabric)
- Test with swatches before beginning

**Carriage Setup:**
- Set carriage levers to normal knit position
- Release any hold buttons
- Ensure tension gates are properly threaded

**Tools Required:**
- Waste yarn (contrasting color, smooth)
- Ravel cord (thin smooth yarn)
- Claw weights (2-3, approximately 50-75g each)
- Transfer tool or latch tool
- Tapestry needle for seaming
- Stitch markers (optional)
- Cast-on comb (optional)
- Ruler or measuring tape

**Initial Setup:**
- Clear all needles to non-working position
- Thread main yarn through carriage
- Prepare waste yarn and ravel cord (approximately 1 meter/40" each)
- Set row counter to 000
- Carriage at Right (COR)

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## MATERIALS

**Yarn:** Worsted weight (Medium #4) sock yarn or wool blend
- Main Color: 150-200g (approximately 300-400m/330-440yds)
- Suggested fiber content: 75% superwash wool / 25% nylon for durability

**Recommended Yarns:**
- Cascade 220 Superwash
- Lion Brand Wool-Ease
- Patons Classic Wool Worsted

**Notions:**
- Waste yarn (smooth, contrasting color)
- Ravel cord
- Tapestry needle
- Sharp scissors
- Blocking board (optional)

**Sock Size:** Adult Medium (fits women's shoe size 7-9 / men's 6-8)
- Finished foot circumference: 20cm (8")
- Finished foot length: Adjustable, approximately 23-25cm (9-10")
- Leg length: Adjustable, approximately 18cm (7")

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## GAUGE AND TENSION

**Gauge (at T7):**
- 24 stitches × 32 rows = 10cm × 10cm (4" × 4") in stockinette stitch after blocking
- Always knit a gauge swatch before beginning

**To Knit Gauge Swatch:**
1. Cast on 30 needles using waste yarn method
2. Knit 40 rows at working tension (T7)
3. Remove from machine with waste yarn
4. Steam lightly and measure center 10cm (4") square
5. Adjust tension dial if needed: higher number = looser fabric, lower = tighter

**Tension Adjustments:**
- If gauge is too tight (more than 24 sts per 10cm): increase tension to T7.5 or T8
- If gauge is too loose (fewer than 24 sts per 10cm): decrease tension to T6.5 or T6

**Important Note:** Sock fabric should be firm but stretchy. Too loose will result in baggy socks; too tight will be uncomfortable.

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## RIBBED CUFF

**Cast-On (E-Wrap Method with Waste Yarn):**

1. **Set Up:**
   - RC 000
   - COR (Carriage on Right)
   - Bring 48 needles to working position (24 needles on each side of center 0)
   - Range: Needle position -24 to +24

2. **Waste Yarn Knitting:**
   - Thread waste yarn through carriage
   - Set tension to T7
   - Knit 8 rows waste yarn
   - COR, RC 008

3. **Ravel Cord:**
   - Lay ravel cord across needle hooks
   - Knit 1 row
   - COR, RC 009

4. **Main Yarn Beginning:**
   - Change to main yarn
   - Knit 2 rows at T7
   - COR, RC 011
   - Hang claw weight on fabric (centered)

5. **Mock Rib Pattern (1×1):**
   - This creates a mock rib by knitting alternate needles
   - **Row 1:** Push even-numbered needles to hold position (HP)
   - Knit 1 row (odd needles only)
   - COL, RC 012
   - **Row 2:** Push odd-numbered needles to HP, return even needles to working position (WP)
   - Knit 1 row (even needles only)
   - COR, RC 013
   - **Repeat Rows 1-2** for a total of 30 rows (15 complete rib patterns)
   - End COR, RC 041

6. **Transition to Stockinette:**
   - Return all needles to working position
   - Knit 2 rows at T7
   - COR, RC 043
   - Adjust weight if needed

**Notes:**
- Keep consistent tension on yarn
- Check that rib pattern is forming correctly
- Fabric should pull in slightly for elasticity

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## LEG (BODY ROWS)

**Stockinette Leg:**

1. **Setup:**
   - All 48 needles in working position
   - RC 043, COR
   - Tension at T7
   - Carriage set to normal knit

2. **Knit Leg:**
   - Knit straight in stockinette stitch (every row, all needles)
   - Continue until RC 100 (57 rows from end of ribbing)
   - This creates approximately 18cm (7") leg length
   - End COR, RC 100

3. **Adjusting Leg Length:**
   - For shorter leg: stop at RC 080 (approximately 13cm/5")
   - For longer leg: continue to RC 120 (approximately 23cm/9")
   - Always end COR

4. **Check Progress:**
   - Move weight down as needed
   - Fabric should hang evenly
   - Check for any dropped stitches or snags

**Note:** Leg is worked in full width; heel shaping begins next.

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## HEEL FLAP

**Heel Flap Setup:**

The heel is worked on half the stitches (24 needles) while the other 24 are held.

1. **Divide for Heel:**
   - RC 100, COR
   - Place needles +1 to +24 into hold position (HP) - these are instep stitches
   - Working needles: -24 to 0 (24 needles for heel)

2. **Knit Heel Flap:**
   - Set carriage to hold position (HC/KC II)
   - Knit back and forth on 24 heel needles only
   - Knit 24 rows (creates square heel flap)
   - End COL, RC 124
   - Carriage should be on left side

**Turn Heel (Short Rowing):**

This creates the cup shape at the bottom of the heel.

3. **Heel Turn Setup:**
   - RC 124, COL
   - Working on 24 heel needles (-24 to 0)

4. **Short Row Shaping:**
   - **Row 1:** Knit to needle -8, place needle -9 to -24 (16 needles) into HP
   - COL, RC 125
   - **Row 2:** Knit across working needles
   - COR, RC 126
   - **Row 3:** Knit to 1 needle before last held needle (to -10), place next needle into HP
   - COL, RC 127
   - **Row 4:** Knit across
   - COR, RC 128
   - **Repeat:** Continue decreasing 1 needle on each return pass until 8 needles remain in working position (needles -4 to +4, but all on left side: -4 to 0, working with the left section)

5. **Return Heel Needles:**
   - After reaching center 8 needles, reverse the process
   - **Next Row:** Return 1 held needle to working position, knit across
   - **Continue:** Return 1 needle each COL pass until all 24 heel needles are back in working position
   - End COR, RC approximately 148

**Note:** Short row heel turn can be tricky for beginners. Take your time and ensure each needle is correctly positioned.

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## FOOT

**Join for Foot:**

1. **Return All Needles to Work:**
   - RC 148, COR
   - Return instep needles (+1 to +24) to working position
   - All 48 needles now in working position
   - Release hold button on carriage

2. **Knit Foot:**
   - Knit straight in stockinette stitch on all 48 needles
   - Continue until foot measures desired length MINUS 5cm (2") for toe
   - For foot length 23cm (9"): knit until total foot measures 18cm (7") from back of heel
   - This is approximately 58 rows
   - End COR, RC 206

**Measuring Foot Length:**
- Measure from center of heel turn to needles
- Try on sock flat to check length (fold in half lengthwise)
- Remember to leave 5cm (2") for toe shaping

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## TOE SHAPING

**Decrease Setup:**

The toe is shaped using paired decreases on both sides.

1. **Begin Toe Shaping:**
   - RC 206, COR
   - All 48 needles in working position
   - Mark decrease needles: -24, -23, +23, +24 (outer edges)

2. **Decrease Method (using transfer tool):**
   - **Every other row**, decrease 4 stitches total (2 on each side)
   - **Right side:** Transfer stitch from needle +24 to +23 (2 stitches on +23)
   - Push needle +24 to non-working position
   - Transfer stitch from needle +23 to +22 (leaves 1 stitch on +23)
   - **Left side:** Transfer stitch from needle -24 to -23
   - Push needle -24 to non-working position
   - Transfer stitch from needle -23 to -22
   - Result: 4 needles out of work (2 each side)

3. **Toe Decrease Sequence:**
   - **Rows 1-2:** Knit 2 rows plain
   - COR, RC 208
   - **Row 3:** Decrease 4 needles as described above (44 needles remain)
   - **Rows 4-5:** Knit 2 rows plain
   - COR, RC 211
   - **Row 6:** Decrease 4 needles (40 needles remain)
   - **Continue pattern:** Knit 2 plain rows, then decrease row
   - Repeat until 20 needles remain (10 on each side of center)
   - End COR, RC approximately 234

4. **Final Toe Rows:**
   - Once at 20 needles, decrease every row (no plain rows between)
   - Continue until 12 needles remain
   - End COR, RC approximately 240

5. **Bind Off:**
   - Cut yarn leaving 60cm (24") tail
   - Thread tail through tapestry needle
   - Remove stitches from machine one at a time, threading through each loop
   - OR use waste yarn method: knit 6 rows waste yarn and remove from machine

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## FINISHING

**Remove from Machine:**

1. **Waste Yarn Removal:**
   - Knit 6-8 rows waste yarn at T7
   - Remove fabric from machine carefully
   - At beginning (cuff), unravel waste yarn and pick up live stitches with tapestry needle
   - Thread through all stitches to secure, OR prepare for ribber rehang (advanced)

2. **Closing Toe:**
   - Thread yarn tail through tapestry needle
   - With stitches still on waste yarn or threaded, draw yarn through all remaining stitches
   - Pull tight to close toe
   - Weave in end on inside

**Seaming:**

3. **Mattress Stitch Seam:**
   - Fold sock in half lengthwise (right side out for mattress stitch, wrong side out for backstitch)
   - Starting at toe, seam along entire length to top of cuff
   - Use mattress stitch for invisible seam:
     - Insert needle under bar between first and second stitch on one edge
     - Cross to other edge and do the same
     - Continue up length, pulling snug every few stitches
   - At cuff, seam through the knit stitches or use a flexible bind-off

4. **Cuff Finishing:**
   - Unravel waste yarn and ravel cord from cast-on edge
   - Pick up live loops with tapestry needle
   - Thread yarn through all loops
   - Fold cuff to inside and loosely tack down, OR
   - Use an elastic sewn bind-off for stretch

**Blocking:**

5. **Steam and Block:**
   - Turn sock right side out
   - Steam lightly with iron held 2-3cm above fabric (do not press directly)
   - Pull gently to shape
   - Allow to dry completely flat or on sock blocker

6. **Weave in Ends:**
   - Use tapestry needle to weave all yarn tails into seam or wrong side
   - Secure ends by weaving through several stitches in different directions
   - Trim excess

**Make Second Sock:**
- Repeat all instructions for matching sock
- Check that both socks are same length before binding off

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## ABBREVIATIONS

**General Terms:**
- **RC:** Row Counter
- **COR:** Carriage on Right
- **COL:** Carriage on Left
- **T:** Tension Dial Setting
- **WP:** Working Position (needles in B or D position, knitting)
- **HP:** Hold Position (needles in D or E position, not knitting)
- **NWP:** Non-Working Position (needles pushed back to A position, out of work)

**Needle Positions (from back to front):**
- **A Position:** Non-working, needle fully pushed back
- **B Position:** Working position, needle forward for knitting
- **D Position:** Hold position, needle fully forward (or working on some machines)
- **E Position:** Upper working position (on some machines)

**Measurements:**
- **cm:** centimeters
- **m:** meters
- **g:** grams
- **":** inches (in parentheses)

**Techniques:**
- **E-wrap cast-on:** Manual cast-on method wrapping yarn around needles
- **Waste yarn:** Temporary yarn used for setup, later removed
- **Ravel cord:** Thin cord knit in one row to mark separation point
- **Short rowing:** Holding needles in hold position to create curved shaping
- **Transfer:** Moving stitch from one needle to another
- **Mattress stitch:** Invisible seaming technique for vertical edges

**Carriage Settings:**
- **HC/KC II:** Hold button active (varies by machine brand)
- **Normal knit:** All carriage buttons released, knits all needles in working position

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## PATTERN NOTES & TIPS

**For Best Results:**
1. Always knit and measure a gauge swatch
2. Use claw weights to keep fabric from pulling
3. Check for dropped stitches after every few rows
4. Sock yarn with nylon content is more durable
5. Seaming takes practice - be patient with first attempt

**Sizing Adjustments:**
- **Smaller (Child/Small Adult):** Cast on 40 needles instead of 48, adjust foot length
- **Larger (Large Adult):** Cast on 56 needles, lengthen foot and leg as needed
- Always maintain gauge for proper fit

**Troubleshooting:**
- Holes in heel turn: Ensure needles are properly in hold position
- Loose stitches at seam: Seam one stitch in from edge
- Tight cuff: Use larger tension for ribbing section (T8 instead of T7)
- Saggy leg: Decrease tension or use fewer needles

**Care Instructions:**
- Hand wash in cool water with wool-safe detergent
- Roll in towel to remove excess water (do not wring)
- Dry flat away from direct heat
- Store folded, not hanging

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**Your classic machine-knit socks