purlJam

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# 🐻 CLASSIC SITTING TEDDY BEAR
## Amigurumi Crochet Pattern

**Skill Level:** Absolute Beginner
**Finished Size:** Approximately 10–12 inches (25–30 cm) tall when seated
**US Crochet Terms Throughout**

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## ⚠️ SAFETY NOTICE

> If this bear is intended for a child under 3 years old, **do not use safety eyes or any small plastic parts.** Instead, use the fully embroidered eye method described in the Embroidery section. Small parts can pose a choking hazard. Always supervise young children with handmade toys.

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## MATERIALS LIST

| Item | Quantity / Details |
|---|---|
| **Main Color (MC) Yarn** | Super Bulky / Jumbo, Category 6, plush or chenille-style. Color: light brown, beige, or caramel. Approximately **200–250 yards (180–230 m)**. Examples: Bernat Blanket yarn, Lion Brand Thick & Quick, Paintbox Yarns Simply Chunky Plush. |
| **Contrast Color (CC) Yarn** | Same weight or slightly lighter, darker brown or tan. Approximately **15–20 yards (14–18 m)**. Used for the snout. |
| **Black Embroidery Floss or Yarn** | 1 skein / small amount. Used for nose, mouth, and optional embroidered eyes. |
| **Crochet Hook** | 5.5mm (US I-9) — **recommended**. 5.0mm (US H-8) — alternative for tighter stitches. |
| **Safety Eyes** | Two (2) × 12mm black safety eyes. *(Optional — see safety notice above.)* |
| **Polyester Fiberfill Stuffing** | Approximately 3–4 oz (85–113 g). Use a good quality, washable fiberfill. |
| **Yarn Needle** | Blunt-tip tapestry needle, large eye. |
| **Stitch Markers** | 2–3 locking stitch markers (or use a small piece of contrasting yarn). |
| **Scissors** | Sharp embroidery scissors. |
| **Pins** | Straight pins or locking pins for positioning pieces before sewing. |

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## GAUGE

**10 sc × 11 rows = 4 inches (10 cm)** worked in continuous rounds with Category 6 plush yarn and 5.5mm hook.

> **Gauge Note for Beginners:** Gauge is most important for the size of the finished bear. If your gauge is different, your bear will simply be slightly larger or smaller. Since this is a toy (not clothing), an exact gauge match is not critical — aim to crochet firmly so stuffing does not show through the stitches.

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## ABBREVIATIONS

| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| **MC** | Main color yarn |
| **CC** | Contrast color yarn |
| **ch** | Chain |
| **sc** | Single crochet |
| **inc** | Increase — work 2 sc in the same stitch |
| **dec** | Decrease — insert hook into next stitch, pull up a loop, insert hook into following stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through all 3 loops on hook. (This is the "invisible decrease" — always insert through the **front loops only** of both stitches for a neater finish.) |
| **sl st** | Slip stitch |
| **st(s)** | Stitch(es) |
| **rnd** | Round |
| **MR** | Magic ring (also called magic circle) |
| **BLO** | Back loop only |
| **FLO** | Front loop only |
| **[ ]** | Stitch count at end of round |
| **(…) around** | Repeat the instructions inside parentheses around the entire round |
| **(…) × n** | Repeat the instructions inside parentheses n times |

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## HOW TO MAKE A MAGIC RING (For Absolute Beginners)

A magic ring creates a tight, closed center for your rounds — much neater than starting with a chain.

1. Wrap the yarn around your index and middle fingers **twice** to form a loop, with the tail end hanging down.
2. Insert your hook through the center of the loop (from front to back).
3. Catch the **working yarn** (the strand attached to your skein) and pull it through the loop.
4. Chain 1 (this does not count as a stitch).
5. Now work your first-round single crochets **into the ring** over both strands of the loop.
6. After working all stitches, pull the **tail end** firmly to close the ring tight.
7. Place a stitch marker in the last stitch of round 1 — move it up each round.

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## PATTERN NOTES

- All pieces are worked in **continuous spiral rounds** — do NOT join at the end of each round and do NOT chain 1 at the start of a round (except where noted).
- Use a **stitch marker** in the last stitch of each round to track your rounds. Move the marker up as you work.
- With plush/chenille yarn, it can be hard to see individual stitches. Run your finger along the fabric to feel where each stitch is before inserting your hook.
- **Stuff firmly** as you go — it is very difficult to add stuffing after pieces are nearly closed.
- Leave a **long tail** (at least 12 inches / 30 cm) when fastening off each piece — you will use these tails to sew pieces together.

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## PART 1: HEAD

**Yarn:** MC (main color)
**Makes:** 1

> The head starts at the top and increases to a wide sphere, then decreases. Safety eyes are inserted before you close the final decrease rounds.

**Round 1:** MR, 6 sc into ring. Pull ring closed. [6 sts]

**Round 2:** Inc in each st around. [12 sts]

**Round 3:** (Sc, inc) around. [18 sts]
*(That is: sc in 1st st, inc in 2nd st — repeat 6 times total.)*

**Round 4:** (2 sc, inc) around. [24 sts]
*(Sc in next 2 sts, inc in 3rd st — repeat 6 times.)*

**Round 5:** (3 sc, inc) around. [30 sts]
*(Sc in next 3 sts, inc in 4th st — repeat 6 times.)*

**Rounds 6–10:** Sc in each st around. [30 sts] *(Work 5 rounds even — no increases or decreases.)*

> **IMPORTANT — Safety Eye Placement:**
> After Round 10, count your stitches and find the center-front of the head. Insert safety eyes between Rounds 7 and 8, approximately 6–7 stitches apart (3–4 stitches on each side of center). Push the post of each eye through a stitch, then attach the washer on the inside firmly. **Eyes must be inserted NOW — you cannot add them after the head is closed.**
>
> *For embroidered eyes: Skip this step. You will embroider eyes after assembly — see Embroidery section.*

**Round 11:** (3 sc, dec) around. [24 sts]
*(Sc in next 3 sts, dec over next 2 sts — repeat 6 times.)*

**Round 12:** (2 sc, dec) around. [18 sts]
*(Sc in next 2 sts, dec over next 2 sts — repeat 6 times.)*

> **STUFF HEAD NOW.** Fill firmly with fiberfill so the sphere holds its round shape. Poke stuffing into all areas — especially the top — before continuing.

**Round 13:** (Sc, dec) around. [12 sts]
*(Sc in next 1 st, dec over next 2 sts — repeat 6 times.)*

**Round 14:** Dec around. [6 sts]
*(Dec over next 2 sts — repeat 6 times.)*

**Fasten off**, leaving a 12-inch (30 cm) tail. Thread tail onto yarn needle and weave through the 6 remaining stitches, pulling tight to close the hole completely. Do not cut yet — use this tail to sew pieces to the head if needed, or weave in securely.

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## PART 2: BODY

**Yarn:** MC
**Makes:** 1

> The body is larger than the head and gives the bear its chubby, round tummy. It starts at the bottom.

**Round 1:** MR, 6 sc into ring. [6 sts]

**Round 2:** Inc in each st around. [12 sts]

**Round 3:** (Sc, inc) around. [18 sts]

**Round 4:** (2 sc, inc) around. [24 sts]

**Round 5:** (3 sc, inc) around. [30 sts]

**Round 6:** (4 sc, inc) around. [36 sts]
*(Sc in next 4 sts, inc in 5th st — repeat 6 times.)*

**Rounds 7–12:** Sc in each st around. [36 sts] *(Work 6 rounds even.)*

**Round 13:** (4 sc, dec) around. [30 sts]

**Round 14:** (3 sc, dec) around. [24 sts]

> **STUFF BODY NOW.** Fill very firmly — the body should feel like a firm pillow and hold its oval shape. This is the main structure of the bear.

**Round 15:** (2 sc, dec) around. [18 sts]

**Round 16:** (Sc, dec) around. [12 sts]

**Round 17:** Dec around. [6 sts]

**Fasten off**, leaving a 12-inch (30 cm) tail. Close the hole as for the head. Set aside.

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## PART 3: SNOUT

**Yarn:** CC (darker brown/contrast color)
**Makes:** 1

> The snout is a small, slightly flattened oval shape that sits on the front of the face. It is NOT stuffed very much — just lightly — so it lies fairly flat.

**Round 1:** MR, 6 sc into ring. [6 sts]

**Round 2:** Inc in each st around. [12 sts]

**Round 3:** (Sc, inc) around. [18 sts]

**Rounds 4–5:** Sc in each st around. [18 sts] *(Work 2 rounds even.)*

Do **not** fasten off yet. Lightly stuff the snout — just a tiny pinch of fiberfill to give it a slight puff.

**Fasten off**, leaving a very long tail of at least 16 inches (40 cm) for sewing. You will sew the snout onto the face using this tail.

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## PART 4: EARS

**Yarn:** MC
**Makes:** 2 (make two identical pieces)

> Ears are small, slightly cupped discs. They are NOT stuffed — the flat shape is all you need.

**Round 1:** MR, 6 sc into ring. [6 sts]

**Round 2:** Inc in each st around. [12 sts]

**Round 3:** (Sc, inc) around. [18 sts]

**Round 4:** Sc in each st around. [18 sts]

**Sl st** into next stitch to finish neatly. **Fasten off**, leaving a 12-inch (30 cm) tail.

> Do not stuff. Flatten the circle slightly by pinching the bottom edge. The ear will naturally cup as you sew it to the head.

*Make a second identical ear.*

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## PART 5: ARMS

**Yarn:** MC
**Makes:** 2 (make two identical pieces)

> Arms are simple tubes, slightly tapered at the top. They are stuffed lightly — they should feel slightly floppy and soft, not rigid.

**Round 1:** MR, 6 sc into ring. [6 sts]

**Round 2:** Inc in each st around. [12 sts]

**Rounds 3–9:** Sc in each st around. [12 sts] *(Work 7 rounds even.)*

> Stuff the arm lightly now. Use a pencil or chopstick to push stuffing down into the tip. The top 1 inch (2.5 cm) near the open end should be left unstuffed so it can be sewn flat against the body.

**Round 10:** Dec around. [6 sts]

**Fasten off**, leaving a 12-inch (30 cm) tail. Close the hole. *Or: for a slightly rounded paw tip, close by weaving through the 6 stitches and pulling tight instead of decreasing — either method works.*

*Make a second identical arm.*

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## PART 6: LEGS

**Yarn:** MC
**Makes:** 2 (make two identical pieces)

> Legs are short and chubby — they position toward the front of the body to give the bear a sitting pose.

**Round 1:** MR, 6 sc into ring. [6 sts]

**Round 2:** Inc in each st around. [12 sts]

**Round 3:** (Sc, inc) around. [18 sts]

**Rounds 4–8:** Sc in each st around. [18 sts] *(Work 5 rounds even.)*

> Stuff the leg firmly now. It should feel solid all the way through.

**Round 9:** (Sc, dec) around. [12 sts]

**Round 10:** Dec around. [6 sts]

**Fasten off**, leaving a 12-inch (30 cm) tail. Close the hole.

*Make a second identical leg.*

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## PART 7: TAIL

**Yarn:** MC
**Makes:** 1

> The tail is a tiny, fluffy pompom-like ball. It's the cutest little detail on the back of the bear!

**Round 1:** MR, 6 sc into ring. [6 sts]

**Round 2:** Inc in each st around. [12 sts]

**Round 3:** Sc in each st around. [12 sts]

> Stuff lightly — just a small pinch of fiberfill.

**Round 4:** Dec around. [6 sts]

**Fasten off**, leaving a 10-inch (25 cm) tail. Close the hole by weaving through remaining 6 stitches.

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## QUICK REFERENCE: STITCH COUNT SUMMARY

| Part | Max Stitches | Rounds | Stuffing |
|---|---|---|---|
| Head | 30 sts | 14 rnds | Firm |
| Body | 36 sts | 17 rnds | Very firm |
| Snout | 18 sts | 5 rnds | Light |
| Ear (×2) | 18 sts | 4 rnds | None |
| Arm (×2) | 12 sts | 10 rnds | Light |
| Leg (×2) | 18 sts | 10 rnds | Firm |
| Tail | 12 sts | 4 rnds | Light |

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## EMBROIDERY: NOSE AND MOUTH

*Complete this step BEFORE assembly so you can hold the snout flat while embroidering.*

**You will need:** Black embroidery floss or thin black yarn, embroidery needle.

### Nose:
1. Thread your needle with 2–3 strands of black embroidery floss (or a thin piece of black yarn).
2. Insert the needle from the bottom edge of the snout, exiting near the center-top of the snout.
3. Work **horizontal satin stitches** back and forth across the center-top of the snout — about 4–5 stitches wide, sitting at the very top center.
4. Build up layers until you have a small, solid triangular or rectangular nose shape, approximately 0.5 inch (1.2 cm) wide.
5. Secure with a knot on the inside (back) of the snout.

### Mouth:
1. From the bottom center of the nose, bring your needle straight down about 0.4 inch (1 cm).
2. Then stitch out to the left at a slight downward angle to create a "V" or curved smile shape.
3. Return to center and stitch out to the right to mirror the other side.
4. You should have an upside-down "Y" shape — this is the classic teddy bear smile. 😊
5. Secure and weave in ends.

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## EMBROIDERED EYES (Alternative to Safety Eyes)

*Use this method if the bear is for a child under 3 or if you prefer a fully soft toy.*

1. Thread needle with black embroidery floss (all 6 strands together) or a small length of black yarn.
2. Mark eye position on the head with a pin — between Rounds 7 and 8, approximately 6–7 stitches apart.
3. Insert needle from the back of the head, coming out at the marked eye position.
4. Work small **satin stitch circles** — stitch back and forth in a tight cluster approximately 3/8 inch (1 cm) wide to create a solid black eye circle.
5. For a cuter look, add a tiny white French knot highlight dot just above and to the side of each eye using white embroidery floss or a white pencil mark.
6. Secure all thread ends through the head and weave in firmly.

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## ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS

> **Read all assembly instructions before starting.** Pin every piece in position first, step back and check you're happy with the placement, *then* sew.

### Tools needed:
- Yarn needle
- Long tail from each piece
- Pins for positioning
- Additional MC yarn if any tails are too short (cut an 18-inch / 45 cm length)

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### STEP 1: Attach Snout to Head

1. Place the snout on the front of the head, centered between the safety eyes, sitting below them. The snout should cover approximately Rounds 9–12 of the head.
2. Pin in place.
3. Thread the long CC tail onto your needle.
4. Using **whip stitch** (passing the needle from the back of the snout edge through to the head, circling around the edge), sew all the way around the outer edge of the snout.
5. Keep stitches small and close together so no gaps show.
6. After completing the circle, bring the needle to the inside and weave in the tail firmly. Trim.

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### STEP 2: Attach Ears to Head

**Ear Position:** The ears sit on top of the head, on either side, approximately at Round 2–4 from the top center.

1. Place one ear on the right side of the head top, with the opening of the ear facing downward/inward (the flat bottom edge of the ear faces the head).
2. Pinch the bottom of the ear slightly to create a gentle cup shape.
3. Pin in place.
4. Thread the ear tail onto your needle.
5. Sew along the entire flat bottom edge of the ear using whip stitch or mattress stitch, attaching it securely to the head.
6. Sew back through several times for extra security — ears get tugged!
7. Weave in tail. Repeat for second ear on the left side, matching the position.

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### STEP 3: Attach Head to Body

1. Place the head on top of the body. The head should sit slightly toward the front of the body top (not perfectly centered — shifted slightly forward looks more natural).
2. The "neck" overlap should be about 1–1.5 inches (2.5–4 cm) — the bottom of the head sits on top of the body opening.
3. Pin all the way around.
4. Thread a long length of MC yarn onto your needle.
5. Using whip stitch, sew all the way around the head-to-body join, passing through both the edge of the body opening and the stitches of the head. Work at least 2 full rounds of stitching for security.
6. Weave in ends firmly.

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### STEP 4: Attach Arms to Body

**Arm Position:** Arms attach to the upper sides of the body, approximately at Round 6–8 from the top of the body (neck area), one on each side.

1. Flatten the top (open) end of each arm slightly — it should be a flat oval shape.
2. Hold one arm against the right side of the body. The arm should angle slightly downward and forward.
3. Pin in place. Check that both arms are at the same height on each side!
4. Thread arm tail onto needle. Sew around the entire flat top edge of the arm using whip stitch, attaching it to the body side.
5. For extra security, sew a second round through the same stitches.
6. Weave in ends. Repeat for the second arm on the left side.

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### STEP 5: Attach Legs to Body

**Leg Position:** For a sitting bear, the legs attach to the very **bottom front** of the body, angling slightly outward and forward. They should look like the bear is sitting with its legs sticking out in front.

1. Flatten the top (open) end of each leg.
2. Position one leg at the lower front-right of the body, just above the body's bottom seam. Angle it slightly outward (pointing to the right).
3. Pin in place.
4. Thread leg tail onto needle and sew the flat top of the leg firmly to the body front using whip stitch.
5. Weave in ends. Repeat for the second leg on the lower front-left.

> **Sitting Test:** Set the bear down at this point. The legs should stick out forward so the bear can "sit" upright. Adjust leg placement if needed before weaving in ends completely.

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### STEP 6: Attach Tail to Body

1. Find the center-back of the body, approximately at Round 8–10 from the bottom.
2. Pin the tail in place — it should look like a little round bobble on the bear's bottom back.
3. Thread tail onto needle. Sew the opening of the tail to the body using whip stitch, going all the way around.
4. Weave in ends.

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### STEP 7: Final Checks

- Gently tug each piece — nothing should feel loose. Re-sew any weak connections.
- Check that the bear sits upright on a flat surface. If it tips forward, try repositioning the legs slightly further back.
- Check that both arms and both ears are at the same height.
- Weave in all remaining yarn ends on the inside of pieces.

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## FINISHING AND CARE TIPS

### Finishing:
- Use the blunt end of your yarn needle to gently **tease out** the plush fibers over seam lines — this hides sewing stitches beautifully in plush/chenille yarn.
- If you see any stuffing peeking through gaps in the stitches, use the needle tip to gently pull adjacent stitches closer together.
- Trim any small yarn fuzzies with sharp scissors for a tidy appearance.

### Care Instructions:
- **Hand wash only** in cool water with a small amount of gentle soap (like baby shampoo).
- Gently squeeze out water — do not wring or twist the bear.
- Reshape while damp by plumping up the stuffed parts.
- **Air dry flat** or hung upside down. Do not machine dry — heat can damage plush yarn fibers and may warp plastic safety eyes.
- **Spot cleaning** is also effective for small marks — use a damp cloth with mild soap.

### Storage:
- Store in a breathable fabric bag, not plastic.
- Keep away from direct sunlight to prevent color fading.

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## TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE FOR BEGINNERS

| Problem | Solution |
|---|---|
| Can't see my stitches in the plush yarn | Run your finger across the fabric to feel each stitch loop. Count by feel. |
| My magic ring won't close tightly | Make sure you pull the yarn **tail** to close — not the working yarn. |
| My stitch count is off | Stop at the end of every round and count all stitches before continuing. |
| My bear looks lumpy | Add more stuffing! Plush yarn needs generous stuffing to look smooth and round. |
| Seams show when assembling | Use the same color yarn for sewing and tease plush fibers over the seam with a needle tip. |
| Bear won't sit upright | Stuff the legs and body more firmly, and sew legs slightly further back on the body. |
| Arm or leg fell off | Re-sew with a double strand of MC yarn, going through twice. |

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## PATTERN AT A GLANCE (Quick Reference Card)

```
HEAD (MC):        MR6 → 12 → 18 → 24 → 30 | even ×5 | 30→24→18→[stuff]→12→6
BODY (MC):        MR6 → 12 → 18 → 24 → 30 → 36 | even ×6 | 36→30→24→[stuff]→18→12→6
SNOUT (CC):       MR6 → 12 → 18 | even ×2 | light stuff
EAR ×2 (MC):     MR6 → 12 → 18 | even ×1 | no stuff
ARM ×2 (MC):     MR6 → 12 | even ×7 | light stuff | dec to 6
LEG ×2 (MC):     MR6 → 12 → 18 | even ×5 | firm stuff | 18→12→6
TAIL (MC):        MR6 → 12 | even ×1 | light stuff | dec to 6
```

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*Pattern design is for personal use. You are welcome to sell finished bears made from this pattern — please credit the pattern if sharing online. Do not reproduce or redistribute the written pattern itself.*

*Happy crocheting! 🐻🧶*

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