purlJam

# CLASSIC TOP-DOWN SOCKS

A timeless sock pattern featuring a traditional heel flap and gusset construction. This versatile pattern works beautifully in solid or variegated fingering weight yarn and creates a comfortable, well-fitting sock.

**Difficulty Level**: Intermediate

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## MATERIALS

**Yarn**: Fingering weight yarn (approximately 400 yards for a pair of medium adult socks)

**Needles**: US 1 (2.25mm) double-pointed needles or size needed to obtain gauge, OR one or two circular needles for your preferred method (magic loop or two circulars)

**Notions**: 
- Tapestry needle for weaving in ends and Kitchener stitch
- Stitch marker (optional)
- Scissors

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## GAUGE

**32 stitches × 44 rounds = 4 inches in stockinette stitch in the round**

Gauge is critical for proper fit. Take time to swatch and adjust needle size if necessary.

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## SIZES

Pattern includes three sizes based on foot circumference:

- **Small**: 7" (18 cm) circumference - fits women's shoe sizes 5-7
- **Medium**: 8" (20 cm) circumference - fits women's shoe sizes 8-10 or men's shoe sizes 7-9
- **Large**: 9" (23 cm) circumference - fits men's shoe sizes 10-12

**To choose your size**: Measure the circumference of the ball of your foot at its widest point. Choose the size with approximately 1" negative ease (sock should be about 1" smaller than actual foot measurement for a snug fit).

**Foot length**: Adjustable to any length (instructions provided)

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## ABBREVIATIONS

- **k**: knit
- **p**: purl
- **st(s)**: stitch(es)
- **RS**: right side
- **WS**: wrong side
- **k2tog**: knit 2 stitches together (right-leaning decrease)
- **ssk**: slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease) - slip 2 stitches knitwise one at a time, insert left needle into front of both slipped stitches and knit together
- **psso**: pass slipped stitch over
- **DPN**: double-pointed needle

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## PATTERN NOTES

- Sock is worked from the cuff down
- The heel flap is worked flat on half the stitches
- Gusset is decreased while working in the round
- Foot length is customizable
- Pattern is written for working on DPNs but easily adaptable to magic loop or two circular needles

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## INSTRUCTIONS

### CUFF

Using the long-tail cast-on method (or other stretchy cast-on), cast on:
- **Small**: 56 sts
- **Medium**: 64 sts
- **Large**: 72 sts

**Math check**: Small: 56 sts, Medium: 64 sts, Large: 72 sts - all divisible by 4 for DPN distribution ✓

Divide stitches evenly over DPNs (14-14-14-14 for Small, 16-16-16-16 for Medium, 18-18-18-18 for Large). Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist. Place marker for beginning of round if desired.

**Ribbing**: 
Work in k2, p2 ribbing for 1.5" (4 cm), or desired cuff length.

### LEG

**Round 1**: Knit all stitches.

Repeat Round 1 until leg measures 6-8" (15-20 cm) from cast-on edge, or desired length to top of heel.

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### HEEL FLAP

The heel flap is worked flat on half the stitches.

**Set-up**: 
- **Small**: Work across first 28 sts, turn. Place remaining 28 sts on hold for instep.
- **Medium**: Work across first 32 sts, turn. Place remaining 32 sts on hold for instep.
- **Large**: Work across first 36 sts, turn. Place remaining 36 sts on hold for instep.

**Math check**: Heel flap sts = 50% of total sts ✓ (Small: 28/56, Medium: 32/64, Large: 36/72)

**Heel Flap Pattern** (worked flat):

**Row 1 (RS)**: *Sl 1 purlwise with yarn in back, k1; repeat from * to end.

**Row 2 (WS)**: Sl 1 purlwise with yarn in front, purl to end.

Repeat Rows 1-2 a total of:
- **Small**: 14 times (28 rows total)
- **Medium**: 16 times (32 rows total)
- **Large**: 18 times (36 rows total)

**Math check**: Number of rows = number of heel flap stitches ✓

The slipped stitches create chain edge that makes it easier to pick up gusset stitches later. You should have one chain edge stitch for every 2 rows.

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### TURN HEEL

Continue working on heel flap stitches only:

**Row 1 (RS)**: 
- **Small**: Sl 1, k15, ssk, k1, turn.
- **Medium**: Sl 1, k18, ssk, k1, turn.
- **Large**: Sl 1, k20, ssk, k1, turn.

**Row 2 (WS)**: 
- **Small**: Sl 1, p5, p2tog, p1, turn.
- **Medium**: Sl 1, p7, p2tog, p1, turn.
- **Large**: Sl 1, p7, p2tog, p1, turn.

**Row 3 (RS)**: Sl 1, knit to 1 st before gap, ssk (1 st from each side of gap), k1, turn.

**Row 4 (WS)**: Sl 1, purl to 1 st before gap, p2tog (1 st from each side of gap), p1, turn.

Repeat Rows 3-4 until all stitches have been worked, ending with a WS row.

**Final heel stitch count**:
- **Small**: 16 sts remaining
- **Medium**: 20 sts remaining
- **Large**: 22 sts remaining

**Math check**: Heel sts after turning (Small: 16, Medium: 20, Large: 22) ✓

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### GUSSET

**Set-up Round**:

With RS facing and working heel stitches, knit across all heel stitches. This is now Needle 1.

**Pick up stitches along first side of heel flap**: 
Pick up and knit 1 stitch in each chain edge stitch along side of heel flap:
- **Small**: Pick up 14 sts
- **Medium**: Pick up 16 sts
- **Large**: Pick up 18 sts

This is now Needle 2.

**Work across instep**: 
Knit across held instep stitches (28/32/36 sts). This is now Needle 3.

**Pick up stitches along second side of heel flap**: 
Pick up and knit 1 stitch in each chain edge stitch along other side of heel flap:
- **Small**: Pick up 14 sts
- **Medium**: Pick up 16 sts
- **Large**: Pick up 18 sts

Knit across first half of heel stitches (8/10/11 sts). This is now Needle 4.

The round now begins at center of heel bottom.

**Total stitch count after pickup**:
- **Small**: 16 + 14 + 28 + 14 = 72 sts
- **Medium**: 20 + 16 + 32 + 16 = 84 sts
- **Large**: 22 + 18 + 36 + 18 = 94 sts

**Math check**: Total after gusset pickup ✓

**Gusset Decrease Rounds**:

**Round 1**: 
- Needle 1: Knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1
- Needle 2: Knit across instep stitches
- Needle 3: K1, ssk, knit to end

**Round 2**: Knit all stitches.

Repeat Rounds 1-2 until stitch count returns to original count:
- **Small**: 56 sts (14-28-14)
- **Medium**: 64 sts (16-32-16)
- **Large**: 72 sts (18-36-18)

**Math check**: After gusset decreases, stitch count returns to original ✓

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### FOOT

Continue knitting all stitches every round until foot measures approximately 2" (5 cm) less than desired total foot length, or until sock reaches base of your pinky toe when tried on.

**To measure**: Measure from back of heel to needles. For average adult foot lengths:
- Women's sizes 5-7: approximately 7.5-8.5" total (work until foot measures 5.5-6.5")
- Women's sizes 8-10 / Men's sizes 7-9: approximately 9-10" total (work until foot measures 7-8")
- Men's sizes 10-12: approximately 10.5-11.5" total (work until foot measures 8.5-9.5")

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### TOE SHAPING

**Decrease Round**:
- Needle 1: Knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1
- Needle 2: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1
- Needle 3: K1, ssk, knit to end

**Math check**: 4 sts decreased each decrease round ✓

**Plain Round**: Knit all stitches.

**Rounds 1-8**: Alternate Decrease Round and Plain Round 8 times.
- **Small**: 56 to 24 sts (32 sts decreased)
- **Medium**: 64 to 32 sts (32 sts decreased)
- **Large**: 72 to 40 sts (32 sts decreased)

**Remaining rounds**: Work Decrease Round every round (no plain rounds between) until:
- **Small**: 12 sts remain
- **Medium**: 16 sts remain
- **Large**: 20 sts remain

**Final stitch count**: 
- **Small**: 12 sts (3-6-3)
- **Medium**: 16 sts (4-8-4)
- **Large**: 20 sts (5-10-5)

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### FINISHING

Arrange stitches so half are on one needle and half on another (top of foot and bottom of foot).

Close toe using Kitchener stitch:

1. Thread tapestry needle with working yarn (leave at least 12" tail)
2. Hold needles parallel with RS facing
3. Set-up: Insert tapestry needle purlwise through first stitch on front needle, pull yarn through (stitch stays on needle); insert tapestry needle knitwise through first stitch on back needle, pull yarn through (stitch stays on needle)
4. *Insert tapestry needle knitwise through first stitch on front needle, slip stitch off; insert purlwise through next stitch on front needle, pull yarn through (stitch stays on needle)
5. Insert tapestry needle purlwise through first stitch on back needle, slip stitch off; insert knitwise through next stitch on back needle, pull yarn through (stitch stays on needle)*
6. Repeat from * until all stitches are worked off

Weave in all ends securely on WS. Block if desired by washing and laying flat to dry.

Make a second sock to match!

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## CUSTOMIZATION OPTIONS

**Leg Length**: Easily adjust by working more or fewer rounds in the Leg section before starting heel.

**Foot Length**: Adjust by working more or fewer rounds in the Foot section before starting toe. Remember to start toe decreases about 2" before desired finished length.

**Cuff Length**: Work ribbing for longer or shorter as desired. 1.5" is standard, but 2-3" also works well.

**Pattern Variations**: The leg section can incorporate any stitch pattern you like - cables, lace, or colorwork. Just maintain the stitch count.

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## TROUBLESHOOTING

**Heel flap looks sloppy**: Make sure you're slipping stitches purlwise and keeping consistent tension.

**Gaps at gusset pickup**: Pick up an extra stitch at each corner (between heel and instep), then decrease these extra stitches on the first gusset decrease round.

**Toe too pointy or too blunt**: Adjust the number of plain rounds between decrease rounds in the toe shaping.

**Sock too loose or too tight**: Check your gauge! You may need to go up or down a needle size.

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**Pattern designed for intermediate knitters**  
**© 2024 - For personal use**