purlJam

# CLASSIC TOP-DOWN SOCKS WITH HEEL FLAP AND GUSSET
## Advanced Fingering Weight Sock Pattern

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## OVERVIEW
These classic top-down socks feature a reinforced heel flap, structured gusset, and shaped toe for an excellent fit. Worked in the round from cuff to toe, this advanced pattern includes three sizes to accommodate different foot circumferences. The heel flap construction provides durability and the gusset ensures proper fit around the heel.

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## SIZES
- **Small:** 18 cm (7") foot circumference
- **Medium:** 20 cm (8") foot circumference  
- **Large:** 23 cm (9") foot circumference

*Socks are designed to be worn with approximately 2.5 cm (1") negative ease*

**Adjustable foot length:** Instructions provided for custom fit, typically 20-28 cm (8-11")

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## MATERIALS

**Yarn:** 
- Fingering weight (4-ply) sock yarn
- **Yardage Required:**
  - Small: 320 metres (350 yards)
  - Medium: 365 metres (400 yards)
  - Large: 410 metres (450 yards)

*Sample shown in superwash merino/nylon blend, colourway "Charcoal Grey"*

**Needles:**
- 2.25mm (UK 13, US 1) double-pointed needles (DPNs) OR
- 2.25mm circular needle (80cm/32" length for magic loop method) OR
- 2.25mm circular needles (two 60cm/24" lengths for two-circular method)

Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain correct tension.

**Notions:**
- Stitch marker
- Tapestry needle
- Scrap yarn or stitch holder (optional)

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## TENSION (GAUGE)
**32 stitches and 44 rounds = 10 cm (4") in stocking stitch in the round, blocked**

*Correct tension is critical for proper sock fit. Take time to check your tension before beginning.*

To check tension: Cast on 40 stitches, join in the round, and work stocking stitch for 12 cm (5"). Block swatch and measure carefully.

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## PATTERN NOTES

- These socks are worked from the cuff down with a traditional heel flap and gusset construction.
- The heel flap is worked flat in rows while the rest of the sock is worked in the round.
- Stitch count refers to total stitches in the round unless otherwise noted.
- A slipped stitch heel flap creates a denser, more durable fabric.
- Instructions are written for DPNs, but can easily be adapted for magic loop or two-circular needle methods.
- For magic loop: divide stitches evenly between two cable sections.
- The pattern includes instructions for custom foot length adjustments.

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## ABBREVIATIONS
- **k** – knit
- **p** – purl
- **sl** – slip stitch purlwise with yarn in back unless otherwise noted
- **k2tog** – knit 2 stitches together (right-leaning decrease)
- **ssk** – slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease): slip 2 stitches knitwise one at a time, insert left needle into front of both slipped stitches and knit together
- **p2tog** – purl 2 stitches together
- **RS** – right side
- **WS** – wrong side
- **pm** – place marker
- **sm** – slip marker
- **wyif** – with yarn in front

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## PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS

### CUFF

**Cast On:**
- Small: 56 stitches
- Medium: 64 stitches
- Large: 72 stitches

Using your preferred method (long-tail cast on recommended for elasticity), cast on the required number of stitches. Divide stitches evenly across DPNs (distribute across 3 or 4 needles as preferred) and join to work in the round, being careful not to twist stitches. Place marker for beginning of round.

**Ribbing:**
Work in k2, p2 rib for 5 cm (2"), or desired cuff length.

*Round:* (K2, p2) to end of round.

Repeat this round for 5 cm (2").

*TIP: For a looser cuff, work ribbing on needles 0.25mm larger, then change to working needle size.*

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### LEG

**Continue in stocking stitch:**
Knit every round until leg measures 15 cm (6") from cast-on edge, or 2.5 cm (1") less than desired total leg length.

*The leg can be lengthened or shortened here to personal preference. Standard leg length is 15-18 cm (6-7").*

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### HEEL FLAP

The heel flap is worked flat over half the total stitches.

**Setup:**
- Small: Work across first 28 stitches for heel. Leave remaining 28 stitches on hold for instep.
- Medium: Work across first 32 stitches for heel. Leave remaining 32 stitches on hold for instep.
- Large: Work across first 36 stitches for heel. Leave remaining 36 stitches on hold for instep.

The heel is now worked back and forth in rows on heel stitches only.

**Row 1 (RS):** *Sl 1, k1; repeat from * to end of heel stitches.

**Row 2 (WS):** Sl 1, purl to end.

Repeat these 2 rows until heel flap measures:
- Small: 5.5 cm (2.25")
- Medium: 6.5 cm (2.5")
- Large: 7 cm (2.75")

End having just completed a WS row. You should have approximately:
- Small: 28-30 rows
- Medium: 32-34 rows
- Large: 34-36 rows

*The slipped stitch pattern creates a reinforced heel that wears well. Count your chain stitches along the edge – each chain = 2 rows.*

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### HEEL TURN

The heel is turned using short rows to create a cup shape.

**Row 1 (RS):**
- Small: Sl 1, k15, ssk, k1, turn.
- Medium: Sl 1, k17, ssk, k1, turn.
- Large: Sl 1, k19, ssk, k1, turn.

**Row 2 (WS):**
- Small: Sl 1, p5, p2tog, p1, turn.
- Medium: Sl 1, p5, p2tog, p1, turn.
- Large: Sl 1, p5, p2tog, p1, turn.

**Row 3 (RS):** Sl 1, knit to 1 stitch before gap, ssk (1 stitch from each side of gap), k1, turn.

**Row 4 (WS):** Sl 1, purl to 1 stitch before gap, p2tog (1 stitch from each side of gap), p1, turn.

Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until all heel stitches have been worked, ending with a WS row.

**Final stitch count after heel turn:**
- Small: 16 stitches
- Medium: 18 stitches
- Large: 20 stitches

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### GUSSET

Resume working in the round.

**Setup Round:**

With RS facing and working needle holding heel stitches:

1. Knit across all heel stitches (Needle 1)
2. Using the same needle, pick up and knit 1 stitch in each slipped stitch chain along edge of heel flap, PLUS 2 extra stitches in the corner to prevent holes:
   - Small: Pick up 16-17 stitches
   - Medium: Pick up 18-19 stitches  
   - Large: Pick up 19-20 stitches

3. Using new needle(s) (Needles 2-3), knit across held instep stitches

4. Using new needle (Needle 4), pick up and knit the same number of stitches along other edge of heel flap as you did on first side, PLUS 2 extra corner stitches, then knit to centre of heel

*This is now the beginning of the round. Place marker if helpful.*

**New stitch count after pickup:**
- Small: approximately 88-90 stitches total
- Medium: approximately 100-104 stitches total
- Large: approximately 112-116 stitches total

**Gusset Decrease Rounds:**

**Round 1 (decrease round):**
- Needle 1: Knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1
- Needles 2-3: Knit across instep stitches
- Needle 4: K1, ssk, knit to end

**Round 2:** Knit all stitches.

Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 until you return to the original stitch count:
- Small: 56 stitches (28 instep, 28 sole)
- Medium: 64 stitches (32 instep, 32 sole)
- Large: 72 stitches (36 instep, 36 sole)

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### FOOT

Continue working in the round in stocking stitch (knit every round) until foot measures approximately 5 cm (2") less than desired total foot length, measured from back of heel.

**Standard foot lengths:**
- Women's Small: 20-22 cm (8-8.5")
- Women's Medium/Men's Small: 23-24 cm (9-9.5")
- Men's Medium: 25-26 cm (10-10.5")
- Men's Large: 27-28 cm (10.5-11")

*To ensure proper fit, try on sock (carefully, with needles still in place) or measure against recipient's foot.*

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### TOE SHAPING

**Rearrange stitches if necessary:**
Half your stitches should be designated as instep (top of foot), half as sole (bottom of foot).

**Decrease Round:**
- Needle 1 (sole): K1, ssk, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1
- Needle 2 (instep): K1, ssk, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1

**Plain Round:** Knit all stitches.

**For Small and Medium:**
Repeat Decrease Round, then Plain Round until 28 stitches remain (14 instep, 14 sole).

Then work Decrease Round every round (no plain rounds between) until 16 stitches remain (8 instep, 8 sole).

**For Large:**
Repeat Decrease Round, then Plain Round until 32 stitches remain (16 instep, 16 sole).

Then work Decrease Round every round (no plain rounds between) until 16 stitches remain (8 instep, 8 sole).

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### FINISHING

**Kitchener Stitch (Grafting):**

Arrange remaining stitches so that 8 stitches are on one needle (instep) and 8 stitches are on parallel needle (sole). Break yarn leaving a 40 cm (16") tail. Thread tail onto tapestry needle.

Hold needles parallel with RS facing out and working yarn coming from right-hand side of back needle.

**Setup:**
- Insert tapestry needle purlwise through first stitch on front needle, pull yarn through leaving stitch on needle.
- Insert tapestry needle knitwise through first stitch on back needle, pull yarn through leaving stitch on needle.

**Grafting sequence (repeat):**
1. Insert tapestry needle knitwise through first stitch on front needle, slip stitch off needle
2. Insert tapestry needle purlwise through next stitch on front needle, leave on needle
3. Insert tapestry needle purlwise through first stitch on back needle, slip stitch off needle
4. Insert tapestry needle knitwise through next stitch on back needle, leave on needle

Repeat steps 1-4 until all stitches are grafted. Adjust tension to match surrounding knitting.

**Weaving in Ends:**
Thread all remaining yarn tails onto tapestry needle and weave through stitches on WS, working diagonally for security. Weave each end in different directions for approximately 5 cm (2"). Trim excess.

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## FINISHING & CARE

**Blocking:**
Gently hand wash socks in lukewarm water with wool-safe detergent. Roll in towel to remove excess moisture (do not wring). Place on sock blockers or lay flat to dry, gently shaping to measurements. Allow to dry completely.

**Care Instructions:**
Hand wash in cool water with wool wash. Lay flat or use sock blockers to dry. Do not tumble dry. Many superwash yarns can be machine washed on gentle cycle, but hand washing extends sock life.

**Repairs:**
Darn worn areas promptly to extend sock life. The heel can be reinforced by duplicate stitching over the heel flap with matching yarn before wear becomes visible.

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## VARIATIONS & CUSTOMIZATION

**Shorter/Taller Cuff:**
Adjust ribbing length as desired. Standard ankle socks: 2.5 cm (1") ribbing. Crew length: 18-20 cm (7-8") total leg length.

**Reinforced Heel:**
For extra durability, hold a strand of sewing thread or thin reinforcing yarn together with working yarn while knitting heel flap and turning heel.

**Striped Socks:**
Change colours every 4-8 rounds in leg and foot. Heel flap and toe traditionally worked in solid colour for best appearance.

**Ribbed Leg:**
Continue k2, p2 ribbing from cuff down entire leg for extra stretch and texture.

**Adjusting for Wider/Narrower Feet:**
For wider foot: cast on next size up but work shorter leg to maintain same stitch gauge.
For narrower foot: cast on next size down.
Width is easier to adjust than length in socks.

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## TROUBLESHOOTING

**Holes at top of gusset:** Pick up extra stitches (2-3) at corners where heel flap meets instep, then decrease these away in first few gusset rounds.

**Loose stitches between needles:** Pull working yarn firmly when moving from one needle to next. Consider magic loop method which eliminates this issue.

**Heel flap too loose:** Use needles 0.25mm smaller for heel flap only.

**Heel flap too tight:** Use needles 0.25mm larger for heel flap only.

**Toe too pointy:** Work fewer decrease rounds with plain rounds between, leaving 20 stitches for grafting instead of 16.

**Toe too boxy:** Work more frequent decreases, alternating decrease and plain rounds until only 12 stitches remain before grafting.

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## ABBREVIATIONS REFERENCE

| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|--------------|---------|
| k | knit |
| p | purl |
| sl | slip stitch purlwise with yarn in back |
| k2tog | knit 2 together |
| ssk | slip, slip, knit |
| p2tog | purl 2 together |
| RS | right side |
| WS | wrong side |
| pm | place marker |
| sm | slip marker |
| wyif | with yarn in front |
| DPN | double-pointed needle |

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## SCHEMATIC

```
CUFF CIRCUMFERENCE:
Small: 18 cm (7")
Medium: 20 cm (8")
Large: 23 cm (9")

LEG LENGTH: 15 cm (6") or as desired

HEEL DEPTH:
Small: 5.5 cm (2.25")
Medium: 6.5 cm (2.5")
Large: 7 cm (2.75")

FOOT LENGTH: Adjustable, typically 20-28 cm (8-11")

TOE LENGTH: Approximately 5 cm (2") for all sizes
```

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## PATTERN NOTES FOR ADVANCED KNITTERS

This pattern uses the traditional heel flap and gusset construction, which provides excellent fit and durability. The mathematics are based on a standard 2:1 ratio of length to width for the heel flap, ensuring proper heel cup depth.

The slipped stitch heel flap creates a denser, more hardwearing fabric while the gusset shaping allows the sock to accommodate the natural shape of the heel without excess fabric bunching.

Stitch counts are calculated for a fabric with approximately 10% negative ease when measure