purlJam

# **Classic Worsted Weight Socks**
*A timeless top-down sock pattern with heel flap and gusset construction*

**Skill Level:** Intermediate  
**Sizes:** S (M, L, XL) - fits foot circumference 7.5 (8.5, 9.5, 10.5) inches

## **FINISHED MEASUREMENTS**
- **Foot circumference:** 7.5 (8.5, 9.5, 10.5) inches
- **Foot length:** Customizable to fit
- **Leg length:** 7 inches (customizable)

## **MATERIALS**
- **Yarn:** 300 (350, 400, 450) yards worsted weight yarn
  - *Suggested: Wool or wool blend for durability and warmth*
- **Needles:** Set of 4 double-pointed needles (DPNs) or circular needles for magic loop, US size 7 (4.5mm)
- **Notions:** 
  - Stitch markers
  - Tapestry needle
  - Scissors

## **GAUGE**
18 stitches and 24 rounds = 4 inches in stockinette stitch, worked in the round
*Gauge is critical for proper fit - always make a swatch!*

## **STITCH GUIDE**

**Ribbing Pattern:** *K2, P2; repeat from **
**Stockinette Stitch in the round:** Knit all stitches

**ABBREVIATIONS**
- k = knit
- p = purl
- k2tog = knit 2 together
- ssk = slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
- sl = slip
- wyib = with yarn in back
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- rnd(s) = round(s)
- dpn = double-pointed needle

## **PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS**

### **CUFF**
Using long-tail cast on, cast on 36 (40, 44, 48) stitches.

Divide stitches evenly among 3 dpns: 12 (14, 15, 16) sts on each needle, or use your preferred method for circular knitting.

Join in the round, being careful not to twist. Place marker for beginning of round.

**Rounds 1-16:** *K2, p2; repeat from * around.

### **LEG**
**Rounds 1-42:** Knit all stitches (stockinette stitch).
*This creates a 7-inch leg. Adjust length as desired.*

### **HEEL FLAP**
The heel flap is worked back and forth on 18 (20, 22, 24) stitches.

**Setup:** Knit first 9 (10, 11, 12) stitches of round onto one needle. Slip last 9 (10, 11, 12) stitches of round onto same needle. These 18 (20, 22, 24) stitches form the heel. Place remaining 18 (20, 22, 24) stitches on holder for instep.

**Row 1 (RS):** *Sl 1 wyib, k1; repeat from * across.
**Row 2 (WS):** Sl 1, purl across.

Repeat Rows 1-2 for 18 (20, 22, 24) rows total, ending with a WS row.

### **HEEL TURN**
**Row 1 (RS):** Sl 1, k9 (11, 12, 13), ssk, k1, turn.
**Row 2 (WS):** Sl 1, p3 (4, 4, 4), p2tog, p1, turn.
**Row 3:** Sl 1, k4 (5, 5, 5), ssk, k1, turn.
**Row 4:** Sl 1, p5 (6, 6, 6), p2tog, p1, turn.

Continue in this manner, working one additional stitch before the decrease on each row, until all heel stitches have been worked.

You will have 10 (12, 12, 14) heel stitches remaining.

### **GUSSET**
**Setup Round:**
- Needle 1: Knit across heel stitches, then pick up and knit 9 (10, 11, 12) stitches along right side of heel flap.
- Needle 2: Knit across 18 (20, 22, 24) instep stitches.
- Needle 3: Pick up and knit 9 (10, 11, 12) stitches along left side of heel flap, then knit first 5 (6, 6, 7) heel stitches.

Place marker for new beginning of round (center of heel).

**Gusset Decrease Rounds:**
**Round 1:** 
- Needle 1: Knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
- Needle 2: Knit across.
- Needle 3: K1, ssk, knit to end.

**Round 2:** Knit all stitches.

Repeat Rounds 1-2 until you have 36 (40, 44, 48) stitches total: 9 (10, 11, 12) stitches on Needle 1, 18 (20, 22, 24) stitches on Needle 2, and 9 (10, 11, 12) stitches on Needle 3.

### **FOOT**
Knit even in stockinette stitch until foot measures 2 (2.25, 2.5, 2.75) inches less than desired total foot length.

### **TOE SHAPING**
**Round 1:**
- Needle 1: Knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
- Needle 2: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
- Needle 3: K1, ssk, knit to end.

**Round 2:** Knit all stitches.

Repeat Rounds 1-2 until 16 (16, 20, 20) stitches remain.

Then repeat Round 1 only (omitting the plain knit round) until 8 stitches remain.

### **FINISHING**
Cut yarn, leaving a 12-inch tail. Using tapestry needle, graft toe stitches together using Kitchener stitch, or use your preferred toe closure method.

Weave in all ends securely.

## **PATTERN NOTES**

1. **Gauge Adjustment:** If your gauge is tighter or looser, adjust needle size accordingly. Proper gauge ensures correct fit.

2. **Length Customization:** 
   - For longer/shorter legs: Add or subtract rounds in the leg section
   - For longer/shorter feet: Adjust the foot length before beginning toe decreases

3. **Heel Reinforcement:** For extra durability, work heel flap with yarn held double, or add reinforcing thread.

4. **Fit Tips:** The sock should have about 10% negative ease for a snug, comfortable fit.

5. **Yarn Substitution:** Choose yarns with good stitch definition and adequate twist for durability in socks.

## **CARE INSTRUCTIONS**
Hand wash in cool water with wool wash. Lay flat to dry. Do not wring or twist.

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*This pattern creates a classic, comfortable sock perfect for everyday wear. The worsted weight yarn makes these socks warm and cozy - ideal for boots or around-the-house wear.*