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# 🐉 Cleo the Baby Dragon
### Beginner Amigurumi Crochet Pattern

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## ABOUT THIS PATTERN

Meet Cleo — a sweet, chubby baby dragon with little wings, curling tail, and a row of back spikes! This beginner-friendly amigurumi is made entirely with single crochet stitches and simple shapes. Each body part is worked separately and sewn together, making it easy to follow at your own pace.

**Finished Size:** Approximately 6–7 inches (15–18 cm) tall when seated, using worsted weight yarn.

**Difficulty:** Beginner — requires only single crochet, magic ring, basic increases and decreases, and straight rows.

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## MATERIALS

| Item | Details |
|---|---|
| **Yarn (Main Color / MC)** | Worsted weight (size 4), approx. 100 yds (92 m) — any dragon color you love! (e.g., green, purple, teal, red) |
| **Yarn (Contrast Color / CC)** | Worsted weight (size 4), approx. 30 yds (27 m) — lighter shade for belly, horns, and spikes (e.g., cream, yellow, pale green) |
| **Crochet Hook** | US E-4 / 3.5 mm |
| **Safety Eyes** | 12 mm, 1 pair |
| **Polyester Fiberfill** | Approx. 1–2 oz stuffing |
| **Yarn Needle** | For sewing pieces together |
| **Stitch Marker** | To mark round beginnings |
| **Scissors** | — |
| **Straight Pins** | For placement before sewing |

> **Yarn Suggestions:** Lion Brand Pound of Love, Red Heart Soft, Paintbox Simply DK held double, or any smooth worsted weight. Avoid fuzzy or textured yarns as they make stitch counting harder for beginners.

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## GAUGE

**4 sc = 1 inch (2.5 cm)**
**4 rows/rounds = 1 inch (2.5 cm)**

Worked tightly in single crochet with US E-4 / 3.5 mm hook. Gauge is important for amigurumi to ensure the stuffing does not show through the fabric. Your fabric should be firm, not stiff.

> **Gauge Swatch Tip:** Work a magic ring with 6 sc, increase each round until you have 24 stitches. If the circle measures approximately 3 inches (7.5 cm) across, your gauge is correct.

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## ABBREVIATIONS

| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| **ch** | chain |
| **sc** | single crochet |
| **inc** | increase — 2 sc in the same stitch |
| **dec** | invisible decrease — insert hook through front loops of next 2 stitches, yarn over, pull through both loops, yarn over, pull through 2 loops |
| **sl st** | slip stitch |
| **st(s)** | stitch(es) |
| **rnd** | round |
| **RS** | right side (the side facing outward) |
| **WS** | wrong side |
| **MR** | magic ring |
| **[ ]** | stitch count at end of round |
| **( ) × #** | repeat instructions in parentheses that many times |

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## SPECIAL TECHNIQUES

### Magic Ring (MR)
Make a loop with your yarn, insert hook through the loop, pull up a loop of working yarn, chain 1. Work stitches into the ring, then pull the tail to close the hole. This creates a tight, no-gap beginning for your rounds.

### Working in Continuous Rounds
Unless told otherwise, do NOT join with a slip stitch at the end of each round. Work in a continuous spiral. Use a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round to track your place.

### Invisible Decrease (dec)
Insert your hook through the **front loop only** of the next stitch, then through the **front loop only** of the stitch after that. Yarn over, pull through both loops (2 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both remaining loops. This creates a much smoother surface than a standard decrease.

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## NOTES BEFORE YOU BEGIN

- Make all pieces before beginning assembly.
- Stuff each closed piece firmly before sewing shut. Understuffing leads to floppy limbs.
- **Insert safety eyes BEFORE closing the head** — this is easy to forget!
- Pin all pieces in place with straight pins and step back to check placement before sewing.
- Leave a long yarn tail (at least 12 inches / 30 cm) when fastening off any piece that will be sewn to another.
- All pieces are worked in **MC** (main dragon color) unless stated otherwise.

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## PATTERN

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### PIECE 1: BODY

*Make 1 in MC.*

The body is a slightly elongated sphere — round at the bottom, a little taller than it is wide.

**Rnd 1:** MR, 6 sc in ring. Pull ring closed. [**6**]

**Rnd 2:** Inc in each st around. [**12**]
*(Each of the 6 sts gets 1 increase = 12 sts total. ✓)*

**Rnd 3:** (Sc, inc) around. [**18**]
*(6 repeats of: 1 sc, 1 inc = 6 + 12 = 18 sts. ✓)*

**Rnd 4:** (2 sc, inc) around. [**24**]
*(6 repeats of: 2 sc, 1 inc = 12 + 12 = 24 sts. ✓)*

**Rnds 5–10:** Sc in each st around. [**24**]
*(6 plain rounds, no changes — work all 24 sts each round. ✓)*

**Rnd 11:** (2 sc, dec) around. [**18**]
*(6 repeats of: 2 sc, 1 dec = 12 + 6 = 18 sts. ✓)*

**Rnd 12:** (Sc, dec) around. [**12**]
*(6 repeats of: 1 sc, 1 dec = 6 + 6 = 12 sts. ✓)*

> **⚠ STUFF NOW:** Fill the body firmly with fiberfill before the opening gets too small. Poke stuffing into the bottom to get a nice round base.

**Rnd 13:** Dec around. [**6**]
*(6 decreases = 6 sts. ✓)*

Fasten off, leaving a 6-inch (15 cm) tail. Thread tail onto yarn needle and weave through the 6 remaining front loops, pull to close the hole, weave in end.

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### PIECE 2: BELLY PATCH

*Make 1 in CC.*

This flat oval panel is sewn onto the front of the body to give Cleo a lighter-colored tummy.

**Rnd 1:** MR, 6 sc in ring. [**6**]

**Rnd 2:** Inc in each st around. [**12**]

**Rnd 3:** (Sc, inc) around. [**18**]

Do NOT stuff. Flatten the piece slightly with your fingers — it is meant to be a flat oval panel, not a sphere. Fasten off, leaving a 15-inch (38 cm) tail for sewing.

> **Tip:** You will sew this flat to the front of the body during assembly. The edges will curve naturally around the body's shape.

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### PIECE 3: HEAD

*Make 1 in MC.*

The head is a sphere, slightly larger than the body piece at its widest point.

**Rnd 1:** MR, 6 sc in ring. [**6**]

**Rnd 2:** Inc in each st around. [**12**]

**Rnd 3:** (Sc, inc) around. [**18**]

**Rnd 4:** (2 sc, inc) around. [**24**]

**Rnds 5–9:** Sc in each st around. [**24**]
*(5 plain rounds. ✓)*

> **⚠ INSERT SAFETY EYES NOW:** Before decreasing, position and insert your 12 mm safety eyes between Rnds 5 and 6, approximately 6–7 stitches apart. Secure the washers on the inside firmly. This step cannot be done after the head is closed.

**Rnd 10:** (2 sc, dec) around. [**18**]
*(6 repeats of: 2 sc, 1 dec = 12 + 6 = 18 sts. ✓)*

**Rnd 11:** (Sc, dec) around. [**12**]
*(6 repeats of: 1 sc, 1 dec = 6 + 6 = 12 sts. ✓)*

> **⚠ STUFF NOW:** Stuff the head firmly and evenly.

**Rnd 12:** Dec around. [**6**]
*(6 decreases = 6 sts. ✓)*

Fasten off, close hole as for body. Leave a 15-inch (38 cm) tail for attaching to body.

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### PIECE 4: SNOUT

*Make 1 in MC.*

A small half-sphere that sits on the front of the face.

**Rnd 1:** MR, 6 sc in ring. [**6**]

**Rnd 2:** Inc in each st around. [**12**]

**Rnds 3–4:** Sc in each st around. [**12**]
*(2 plain rounds. ✓)*

Do NOT close. Leave the opening open — you will sew the open edge flat against the head. Add a small pinch of stuffing before sewing. Fasten off, leaving a 15-inch (38 cm) tail.

> **Tip:** Use a yarn needle to embroider two small nostrils with a contrasting color or the same MC. Two short straight stitches angled slightly apart look great!

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### PIECE 5: LEGS

*Make 4 in MC.*

Short, chubby little legs — worked as a cylinder with a rounded bottom.

**Rnd 1:** MR, 6 sc in ring. [**6**]

**Rnd 2:** Inc in each st around. [**12**]
*(6 increases = 12 sts. ✓)*

**Rnds 3–7:** Sc in each st around. [**12**]
*(5 plain rounds — this creates the leg tube. ✓)*

Do NOT close. Leave the opening open for sewing to body. Add a small amount of stuffing to each leg — don't overstuff, or they won't lay flat against the body. Fasten off, leaving a 15-inch (38 cm) tail.

> **Make 4 identical legs.** Two will be arms (front legs) and two will be back legs. The difference is only in placement during assembly.

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### PIECE 6: TAIL

*Make 1 in MC.*

A tapered tube that starts wider at the body end and narrows to a point. Work from the tip to the base.

**Rnd 1:** MR, 4 sc in ring. [**4**]

**Rnd 2:** (Sc, inc) around. [**6**]
*(2 repeats of: 1 sc, 1 inc = 2 + 4 = 6 sts. ✓)*

**Rnds 3–4:** Sc in each st around. [**6**]

**Rnd 5:** (2 sc, inc) around. [**8**]
*(2 repeats of: 2 sc, 1 inc = 4 + 4 = 8 sts. ✓)*

**Rnds 6–7:** Sc in each st around. [**8**]

**Rnd 8:** (3 sc, inc) around. [**10**]
*(2 repeats of: 3 sc, 1 inc = 6 + 4 = 10 sts. ✓)*

**Rnds 9–10:** Sc in each st around. [**10**]

**Rnd 11:** (4 sc, inc) around. [**12**]
*(2 repeats of: 4 sc, 1 inc = 8 + 4 = 12 sts. ✓)*

**Rnds 12–13:** Sc in each st around. [**12**]

Do NOT close. Leave opening open for sewing. Stuff lightly — the tail should have some shape but remain flexible enough to curl. Fasten off, leaving a 15-inch (38 cm) tail.

> **Styling Tip:** After sewing the tail to the body, gently curve it to the side or upward and tack it in place with a few invisible stitches to hold the curl.

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### PIECE 7: WINGS

*Make 2 in MC.*

The wings are worked flat in rows — no rounds needed! This creates a simple triangle shape that fans out from the body.

**Foundation:** Ch 13.

**Row 1 (RS):** Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc across. Ch 1, turn. [**12**]

**Row 2:** Dec, sc in next 8 sts, dec. Ch 1, turn. [**10**]
*(1 dec at start + 8 sc + 1 dec at end = 2 + 8 = 10 sts. ✓)*

**Row 3:** Dec, sc in next 6 sts, dec. Ch 1, turn. [**8**]
*(1 dec + 6 sc + 1 dec = 2 + 6 = 8 sts. ✓)*

**Row 4:** Dec, sc in next 4 sts, dec. Ch 1, turn. [**6**]
*(1 dec + 4 sc + 1 dec = 2 + 4 = 6 sts. ✓)*

**Row 5:** Dec, sc in next 2 sts, dec. Ch 1, turn. [**4**]
*(1 dec + 2 sc + 1 dec = 2 + 2 = 4 sts. ✓)*

**Row 6:** Dec, dec. Ch 1, turn. [**2**]
*(2 decreases = 2 sts. ✓)*

**Row 7:** Dec. [**1**]

Fasten off, leaving a 15-inch (38 cm) tail.

**Wing Border (Optional but recommended):** Reattach yarn at any corner of the wing. Work 1 round of sc evenly around the entire wing edge, working 2–3 sc in each corner. Sl st to first sc to join. Fasten off. This gives the wing a neat, defined edge.

> **Make 2 identical wings.**

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### PIECE 8: HORNS

*Make 2 in CC.*

Small pointed cones for the top of the head.

**Rnd 1:** MR, 4 sc in ring. [**4**]

**Rnd 2:** (Sc, inc) around. [**6**]
*(2 repeats of: 1 sc, 1 inc = 2 + 4 = 6 sts. ✓)*

**Rnd 3:** Sc in each st around. [**6**]

**Rnd 4:** (2 sc, inc) around. [**8**]
*(2 repeats of: 2 sc, 1 inc = 4 + 4 = 8 sts. ✓)*

**Rnd 5:** Sc in each st around. [**8**]

Do NOT close. Leave open. Do not stuff — they'll hold their shape on their own. Fasten off, leaving a 12-inch (30 cm) tail.

> **Make 2 identical horns.**

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### PIECE 9: BACK SPIKES

*Make 3 in CC.*

Small spikes that run down Cleo's back, from the base of the head to the start of the tail.

**Rnd 1:** MR, 4 sc in ring. [**4**]

**Rnd 2:** Inc in each st around. [**8**]
*(4 increases = 8 sts. ✓)*

**Rnd 3:** Sc in each st around. [**8**]

Do NOT close or stuff. Flatten the opening with your fingers — you'll sew the flat base edge to the back of the dragon. Fasten off, leaving a 12-inch (30 cm) tail.

> **Make 3 identical spikes.**

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## ASSEMBLY

Assembly is the most important step. Take your time and use straight pins to position every piece before sewing a single stitch.

Lay out all your finished pieces: body, belly patch, head, snout, 4 legs, tail, 2 wings, 2 horns, 3 spikes.

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### STEP 1: SEW BELLY PATCH TO BODY

Position the belly patch (CC flat oval) on the **front center** of the body, roughly centered between Rnds 3 and 11. Pin in place. Using the long CC tail and yarn needle, whip stitch around the entire edge of the belly patch, sewing it flat against the body. Weave in end securely.

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### STEP 2: ATTACH BACK SPIKES

Before attaching the head, place the 3 spikes in a line running down the **back center top** of the body, from approximately Rnd 5 to Rnd 10. Space them evenly (about 1 spike per 2 rounds). Pin in place. Sew each spike base flat to the body surface, making sure the pointed tip faces upward. Weave in ends.

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### STEP 3: ATTACH HEAD TO BODY

Position the head on top of the body. The head should sit slightly toward the front (not perfectly centered on the top opening) so Cleo looks like she's looking forward rather than straight up. Pin in place. Using the long MC tail from the head and a yarn needle, whip stitch around the entire neck opening, attaching the head firmly to the body. Sew through both layers, going around at least twice for security. Weave in end.

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### STEP 4: ATTACH SNOUT TO HEAD

Position the snout on the **lower front center** of the head, centered between and slightly below the safety eyes. The open edge faces the head. Pin in place. Sew around the snout's open edge, attaching it flat to the face. Stuff lightly before closing the last gap. Weave in end.

> **Embroider nostrils:** Using CC yarn or a contrasting color, make 2 small straight stitches on the snout to create nostrils. Place them near the top of the snout, angled slightly outward (like a small "v" shape).

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### STEP 5: ATTACH HORNS TO HEAD

Position both horns on the **top of the head**, approximately 3–4 stitches apart and 2–3 rounds back from the eyes. The open base of each horn faces downward against the head. Pin in place. Sew each horn's base edge flat to the head. Weave in ends.

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### STEP 6: ATTACH LEGS

**Back legs:** Position 1 leg on each side of the lower body (approximately Rnds 2–4 from the bottom). The opening faces the body. The leg should angle slightly outward and downward. Pin in place and sew around the opening edge to attach. Repeat for the second back leg.

**Front legs (arms):** Position 1 leg on each side of the upper body (approximately Rnds 8–10 from the bottom, below where the head sits). Angle slightly forward. Pin and sew as for the back legs.

> **Check:** When you set Cleo down on a flat surface, all 4 legs should touch the surface and the dragon should sit upright. Adjust placement before final sewing if needed.

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### STEP 7: ATTACH TAIL

Position the tail at the **lower back** of the body, opposite the belly. The wider open end faces the body. Flatten the opening slightly and pin in place so the tail extends outward and can be curved to one side. Sew around the opening, attaching it firmly. Once attached, curve the tail in a gentle arc and tack it to the body or leg with 1–2 invisible stitches if desired. Weave in end.

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### STEP 8: ATTACH WINGS

Position the wings on the **upper back** of the body, one on each side, just below where the head meets the body (approximately at the shoulder level). The wide base of the wing triangle should face down; the pointed tip should face upward. Pin both wings symmetrically. When satisfied with placement, sew each wing along its base edge to the body. Weave in all ends.

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## FINISHING TOUCHES

**Weave in ALL remaining ends** securely. Give each end at least 3–4 weaves through nearby stitches in different directions before trimming close.

**Optional Embellishments:**
- **Claws:** With CC yarn, embroider 3 short straight stitches on the end of each leg to suggest claws.
- **Eye detail:** With black embroidery thread, add a small straight stitch highlight dot above each safety eye for a shiny, lively look.
- **Mouth:** With CC or dark yarn, embroider a small curved smile below the snout using 1–2 straight stitches.
- **Blush marks:** With pink yarn or embroidery floss, make 3–4 small parallel stitches on each cheek (below and outside the eyes) for a sweet, blushing look.

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## CARE INSTRUCTIONS

Hand wash in cool water with mild soap. Gently squeeze out excess water — do not wring or twist. Lay flat to dry or air dry. Do not machine wash or tumble dry, as this can distort the shape.

> **Safety Note:** This toy contains small parts (safety eyes) and is not suitable for children under 3 years. If gifting to young children, embroider felt eyes instead of using plastic safety eyes, and choose a toy-safe stuffing labeled appropriate for children's toys.

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## QUICK REFERENCE — STITCH COUNT SUMMARY

| Piece | Color | Max Sts | Closed? | Stuffed? |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Body | MC | 24 | Yes | Yes, firmly |
| Belly Patch | CC | 18 | No (flat) | No |
| Head | MC | 24 | Yes | Yes, firmly |
| Snout | MC | 12 | No (open edge) | Lightly |
| Leg × 4 | MC | 12 | No (open edge) | Lightly |
| Tail | MC | 12 | No (open edge) | Lightly |
| Wing × 2 | MC | 12 (Row 1) | N/A (flat) | No |
| Horn × 2 | CC | 8 | No (open edge) | No |
| Spike × 3 | CC | 8 | No (flat) | No |

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## CONGRATULATIONS! 🎉

You've made Cleo the Baby Dragon! Share your finished dragon using **#CleoTheDragon** or tag your favorite crochet community. Every dragon will look a little different — that's the magic of handmade.

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*Pattern designed for personal use. Please do not reproduce or sell this pattern. Finished items made from this pattern may be sold in small quantities with credit to the designer.*