purlJam

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# 🐻⚙️ COGSWORTH — THE STEAMPUNK TEDDY BEAR
### A Hand Knitted Two-Needle Teddy Bear with Full Steampunk Costume

---

## 🎨 FINISHED OBJECT — FULL COLOR DESCRIPTION

> **Imagine this on your shelf:**
> Cogsworth stands approximately **14 inches (35 cm) tall** — a plump, old-fashioned teddy bear with rounded ears and a gentle, curious expression. His body is covered in rich, **dark chocolate brown bouclé yarn** that gives him a wonderfully tactile, slightly fuzzy texture, like a well-loved antique bear from a Victorian curiosity shop.
>
> He wears a **bakerboy cap** knitted in **deep charcoal gray**, with a neat brim stiffened with a strip of card — the kind a street-smart Victorian urchin might wear, or a seasoned airship engineer. A tiny **brass-colored button** sits at the crown where the panels meet.
>
> His **baggy trousers** are knitted in a warm **dark olive green or deep navy** (your choice), gathered at the waist with a twisted cord and bunching loosely at the ankles — practical attire for a bear who operates machinery. Tiny **brown faux leather-look patches** at the knees (worked in contrast yarn or felt) complete the look.
>
> Over his round tummy, Cogsworth sports his prize possession: a **waistcoat** in **brilliant burnt orange, deep teal, or rich burgundy** — a jewel-bright contrast against his dark fur. The waistcoat has **four tiny brass shank buttons** marching down the front and two **small square pockets** at the chest, each edged in a contrast color. The back is left open for easy dressing and undressing.
>
> His eyes are **black glass or safety eyes**, giving him a bright, intelligent look. His nose is a small triangle of **black satin stitch embroidery**, and the hint of a smile is worked in the same thread. His paw pads are embroidered in **warm tan or cream yarn** — four small oval stitches on each paw.

---

## MATERIALS

### Yarn
| Label | Color | Weight | Amount |
|---|---|---|---|
| **MC** — Bear Body | Dark Brown Bouclé | Worsted (Aran) | Approx. 200 yards (183 m) |
| **CC1** — Trousers | Deep Olive Green or Navy | Worsted | Approx. 80 yards (73 m) |
| **CC2** — Waistcoat | Burnt Orange, Teal, or Burgundy | Worsted | Approx. 60 yards (55 m) |
| **CC3** — Waistcoat Trim & Pockets | Cream or Gold | Worsted | Approx. 20 yards (18 m) |
| **CC4** — Hat | Charcoal Gray | Worsted | Approx. 50 yards (46 m) |
| **CC5** — Paw Pads | Warm Tan or Cream | Worsted | Small amount |

> **Yarn Notes:** The **bouclé or loop-textured yarn** for the MC gives an authentic "teddy bear fur" effect. If bouclé is not available, a **brushed mohair blend** or a **loop pile yarn** in dark brown works beautifully. For the costume pieces, use a **smooth worsted weight** — smooth yarn is much easier to work and shows detail clearly.

### Needles
- **US 8 / 5 mm** straight needles (two needles, knitted flat throughout)
- **US 6 / 4 mm** straight needles (for costume pieces — tighter gauge for structure)

> **A note on bouclé:** The loopy texture of bouclé makes it harder to see individual stitches. Work in good light and use **locking stitch markers every 5 stitches** to keep your count. Stitch counts matter most at shape changes — mark those rows.

### Notions
- **Polyester fiberfill stuffing** — approx. 3–4 oz (85–113 g)
- **2 × 18 mm black safety eyes** (or black buttons for children's version)
- **Black embroidery floss** — nose, mouth, claws
- **Tan embroidery floss** — paw pads
- **4 × small brass-toned shank buttons** (approx. 8–10 mm) — waistcoat
- **1 × small brass-toned button** (approx. 6 mm) — hat crown
- **2 × tiny contrast buttons** (optional) — pocket decoration
- **Tapestry needle**
- **Stitch markers**
- **Small piece of stiff card** (for hat brim)
- **Small piece of felt** (optional, for knee patches on trousers)
- **Smooth waste yarn** in a contrast color (for seaming bouclé — see notes)
- **Row counter** (recommended)
- **Scissors, pins**

---

## GAUGE

### Bear Body (MC, US 8 / 5 mm needles)
**18 sts × 24 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) in Stockinette Stitch**

### Costume Pieces (CC yarns, US 6 / 4 mm needles)
**20 sts × 28 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) in Stockinette Stitch**

> ⚠️ **Gauge is important for size.** Bouclé yarn can be unpredictable — knit a 6-inch swatch, wash and block it, then measure the center 4 inches. Adjust needle size if needed. The bear's finished size will change proportionally if your gauge differs.

---

## FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

| Piece | Measurement |
|---|---|
| Bear height (seated) | Approx. 10 inches (25 cm) |
| Bear height (standing) | Approx. 14 inches (35 cm) |
| Body circumference | Approx. 12 inches (30 cm) |
| Head circumference | Approx. 10 inches (25 cm) |
| Leg length | Approx. 4 inches (10 cm) |
| Arm length | Approx. 3.5 inches (9 cm) |

---

## DIFFICULTY LEVEL

**Intermediate** — You should be comfortable with:
- Knitting and purling flat
- Basic shaping (increases and decreases)
- Seaming (mattress stitch)
- Picking up stitches for trim
- Simple embroidery

---

## ABBREVIATIONS

| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| k | knit |
| p | purl |
| st(s) | stitch(es) |
| RS | right side |
| WS | wrong side |
| CO | cast on |
| BO | bind off |
| inc | increase (knit into front and back of stitch = kfb) |
| dec | decrease |
| k2tog | knit 2 stitches together (right-leaning decrease) |
| ssk | slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease) |
| kfb | knit into front and back of stitch (increase) |
| p2tog | purl 2 stitches together |
| St st | Stockinette stitch (knit RS rows, purl WS rows) |
| G st | Garter stitch (knit every row) |
| rep | repeat |
| rem | remaining |
| approx | approximately |
| WY | waste yarn |
| PM | place marker |
| SM | slip marker |
| yo | yarn over |
| [ ] | work instructions within brackets as directed |

---

## PATTERN NOTES

1. **Knitted Flat Throughout:** Every piece in this pattern is worked back and forth on two straight needles. There is no knitting in the round.

2. **Seaming Bouclé:** The loopy texture of bouclé makes standard mattress stitch tricky. **Thread a length of smooth waste yarn in a bright contrast color** onto your tapestry needle and use this to seam. The smooth yarn glides through the fabric easily. Bury ends between the layers of stuffing. Alternatively, whipstitch the seams on the wrong side.

3. **Stuffing:** Stuff each piece firmly as you go. A well-stuffed bear holds his shape. Use small pinches of stuffing and pack them in with a blunt pencil or chopstick to avoid lumps.

4. **Safety Eyes vs. Buttons:** If this bear is for a child under 3 years, omit safety eyes and embroider the eyes entirely in black satin stitch. Button eyes are a choking hazard for young children.

5. **Assembly:** The bear is assembled using **yarn threaded through a long tapestry needle**, pulling tightly to create the jointed look. Arms and legs can be attached to swing slightly (a "soft joint") by stitching through both the limb and body several times, then knotting and burying the yarn.

6. **Costume:** The hat, trousers, and waistcoat are all **removable**. Size them generously to slip on and off over the stuffed bear.

7. **Bouclé Stitch Counting Tip:** Place a locking stitch marker every 5 stitches when casting on. Move markers up every 10 rows.

---

## ═══════════════════════════════════════
## PART ONE: THE BEAR
## ═══════════════════════════════════════

### 📐 BODY (Make 2 pieces — Front and Back)

**Yarn:** MC (Dark Brown Bouclé)
**Needles:** US 8 / 5 mm

The body is shaped like a rounded rectangle, wider at the tummy and tapered at the top and bottom.

**CO 20 sts.**

**Row 1 (RS):** Knit across. *(20 sts)*
**Row 2 (WS):** Purl across. *(20 sts)*

**Rows 3–4:** Rep Rows 1–2. *(20 sts)*

**Shape Lower Body (increase rows):**
**Row 5 (RS):** Kfb, k to last st, kfb. *(22 sts)*
**Row 6 (WS):** Purl across. *(22 sts)*
**Row 7 (RS):** Kfb, k to last st, kfb. *(24 sts)*
**Row 8 (WS):** Purl across. *(24 sts)*

> ✅ **Check:** You now have 24 sts.

**Work even in St st (knit RS, purl WS) for 16 rows** (Rows 9–24). *(24 sts)*

**Shape Upper Body (decrease rows):**
**Row 25 (RS):** Ssk, k to last 2 sts, k2tog. *(22 sts)*
**Row 26 (WS):** Purl across. *(22 sts)*
**Row 27 (RS):** Ssk, k to last 2 sts, k2tog. *(20 sts)*
**Row 28 (WS):** Purl across. *(20 sts)*
**Row 29 (RS):** Ssk, k to last 2 sts, k2tog. *(18 sts)*
**Row 30 (WS):** Purl across. *(18 sts)*

> ✅ **Check:** You now have 18 sts.

**BO all sts knitwise.** Cut yarn, leaving a 12-inch tail for seaming.

**Make second Body piece** identically.

---

### 📐 HEAD (Make 2 pieces — Front and Back)

**Yarn:** MC (Dark Brown Bouclé)
**Needles:** US 8 / 5 mm

**CO 8 sts.**

**Row 1 (RS):** Knit across. *(8 sts)*
**Row 2 (WS):** Purl across. *(8 sts)*

**Shape Head (increase section):**
**Row 3 (RS):** Kfb, k to last st, kfb. *(10 sts)*
**Row 4 (WS):** Purl. *(10 sts)*
**Row 5 (RS):** Kfb, k to last st, kfb. *(12 sts)*
**Row 6 (WS):** Purl. *(12 sts)*
**Row 7 (RS):** Kfb, k to last st, kfb. *(14 sts)*
**Row 8 (WS):** Purl. *(14 sts)*
**Row 9 (RS):** Kfb, k to last st, kfb. *(16 sts)*
**Row 10 (WS):** Purl. *(16 sts)*

> ✅ **Check:** You now have 16 sts.

**Work even in St st for 12 rows** (Rows 11–22). *(16 sts)*

**Shape Top of Head (decrease section):**
**Row 23 (RS):** Ssk, k to last 2 sts, k2tog. *(14 sts)*
**Row 24 (WS):** Purl. *(14 sts)*
**Row 25 (RS):** Ssk, k to last 2 sts, k2tog. *(12 sts)*
**Row 26 (WS):** Purl. *(12 sts)*
**Row 27 (RS):** Ssk, k to last 2 sts, k2tog. *(10 sts)*
**Row 28 (WS):** Purl. *(10 sts)*
**Row 29 (RS):** Ssk, k to last 2 sts, k2tog. *(8 sts)*
**Row 30 (WS):** Purl. *(8 sts)*

> ✅ **Check:** You now have 8 sts.

**BO all sts knitwise.** Cut yarn, leaving a 12-inch tail.

**Make second Head piece** identically.

---

### 📐 SNOUT (Make 1)

**Yarn:** MC (Dark Brown Bouclé)
**Needles:** US 8 / 5 mm

The snout is a small oval shape, seamed and stuffed, then stitched onto the head front.

**CO 6 sts.**

**Row 1 (RS):** Knit. *(6 sts)*
**Row 2 (WS):** Purl. *(6 sts)*
**Row 3 (RS):** Kfb, k4, kfb. *(8 sts)*
**Row 4 (WS):** Purl. *(8 sts)*
**Work 4 rows even in St st.** *(8 sts)*
**Row 9 (RS):** Ssk, k4, k2tog. *(6 sts)*
**Row 10 (WS):** Purl. *(6 sts)*

**BO all sts.** Cut yarn. The snout piece is approximately 1.5 × 1 inch (4 × 2.5 cm).

---

### 📐 EARS (Make 2 — Each Ear is 2 pieces)

**Yarn:** MC (Dark Brown Bouclé)
**Needles:** US 8 / 5 mm

**CO 8 sts.**
**Row 1 (RS):** Knit. *(8 sts)*
**Row 2 (WS):** Purl. *(8 sts)*
**Row 3 (RS):** Kfb, k6, kfb. *(10 sts)*
**Row 4 (WS):** Purl. *(10 sts)*
**Row 5 (RS):** Knit. *(10 sts)*
**Row 6 (WS):** Purl. *(10 sts)*
**Row 7 (RS):** Ssk, k6, k2tog. *(8 sts)*
**Row 8 (WS):** Purl. *(8 sts)*
**Row 9 (RS):** Ssk, k4, k2tog. *(6 sts)*
**Row 10 (WS):** Purl. *(6 sts)*

**BO all sts.** Cut yarn.

**Make 4 ear pieces total** (2 pairs). Each ear is made from 2 pieces seamed together.

---

### 📐 ARMS (Make 2 — Each Arm is 2 pieces)

**Yarn:** MC (Dark Brown Bouclé)
**Needles:** US 8 / 5 mm

**CO 10 sts.**
**Row 1 (RS):** Knit. *(10 sts)*
**Row 2 (WS):** Purl. *(10 sts)*
**Row 3 (RS):** Kfb, k8, kfb. *(12 sts)*
**Row 4 (WS):** Purl. *(12 sts)*

**Work even in St st for 12 rows** (Rows 5–16). *(12 sts)*

**Shape Paw:**
**Row 17 (RS):** Ssk, k8, k2tog. *(10 sts)*
**Row 18 (WS):** Purl. *(10 sts)*
**Row 19 (RS):** Ssk, k6, k2tog. *(8 sts)*
**Row 20 (WS):** Purl. *(8 sts)*

**BO all sts.** Cut yarn.

**Make 4 arm pieces total** (2 pairs).

> ✅ **Check:** Each arm piece works from 10 sts → 12 sts → 10 sts → 8 sts. Final BO is 8 sts. ✔

---

### 📐 LEGS (Make 2 — Each Leg is 2 pieces)

**Yarn:** MC (Dark Brown Bouclé)
**Needles:** US 8 / 5 mm

**CO 12 sts.**
**Row 1 (RS):** Knit. *(12 sts)*
**Row 2 (WS):** Purl. *(12 sts)*
**Row 3 (RS):** Kfb, k10, kfb. *(14 sts)*
**Row 4 (WS):** Purl. *(14 sts)*
**Row 5 (RS):** Kfb, k12, kfb. *(16 sts)*
**Row 6 (WS):** Purl. *(16 sts)*

> ✅ **Check:** 16 sts after increases. ✔

**Work even in St st for 8 rows** (Rows 7–14). *(16 sts)*

**Shape Upper Leg:**
**Row 15 (RS):** Ssk, k12, k2tog. *(14 sts)*
**Row 16 (WS):** Purl. *(14 sts)*
**Row 17 (RS):** Ssk, k10, k2tog. *(12 sts)*
**Row 18 (WS):** Purl. *(12 sts)*

**BO all sts.** Cut yarn.

**Make 4 leg pieces total** (2 pairs).

**FOOT SOLE (Make 2):**

**CO 6 sts.**
**Work in St st for 10 rows.**
**BO all sts.**

---

## BEAR ASSEMBLY

### Step 1: Seam the Body
Hold the two body pieces with RS together. Using a smooth contrast WY threaded on a tapestry needle, seam around 3 sides using whipstitch or mattress stitch, leaving the top edge open. Turn RS out. Stuff firmly with polyester fiberfill until the body is plump and round. Seam the top edge closed.

### Step 2: Seam the Head
Hold the two head pieces with RS together. Seam around the edges leaving a 2-inch (5 cm) gap at the bottom.

**Before closing:** Attach safety eyes now if using — position them approximately **8 rows up from the CO edge** of the head front, centered on the head, spaced **6 sts apart** (about 1.5 inches / 4 cm between eyes). Push the safety eye post through the fabric and secure the washer firmly on the inside.

Turn RS out. Stuff firmly. Close the gap.

> ⚠️ **Safety Eyes Note:** Safety eyes MUST be attached before stuffing and closing. Once closed, you cannot reach inside to secure the washers.

### Step 3: Attach the Snout
Fold the snout piece in half (wrong sides together) forming a small oval. Seam around edges, leaving a small gap. Stuff lightly. Close gap. Position the stuffed snout oval centrally on the head front, **4 rows below the eyes**. Pin in place. Sew around the edge of the snout using MC yarn, attaching it firmly to the head.

### Step 4: Embroider the Face
Using black embroidery floss:
- **Nose:** Work 5–6 horizontal satin stitches across the top center of the snout, forming a small horizontal rectangle or triangle nose (approx. 4 sts wide).
- **Mouth:** Bring the needle out at the base of the nose and work a small curved "V" smile — one stitch down, splitting into two stitches going out and up on each side.
- **Claw lines:** Optional — work 3 small straight stitches on each paw pad using black floss.

Using tan embroidery floss:
- **Paw pads:** On the palm of each paw (one arm piece), work one large oval (4 satin stitches) in the center, and four small ovals above it (one stitch each) to represent the bean-shaped toe pads.

### Step 5: Seam and Stuff the Ears
Hold 2 ear pieces with RS together. Seam around the curved edge. Leave the straight CO edge open. Turn RS out (do NOT stuff ears — they lay flat). Fold the open edge in slightly and pin to the top of the head, **3 sts in from each side edge**, angled slightly outward. Sew firmly in place through all layers.

### Step 6: Seam and Stuff the Arms
Hold 2 arm pieces (RS together). Seam around, leaving the top straight edge open. Turn RS out. Stuff firmly — the paw end more lightly, the upper arm more firmly. Close the top opening by folding and stitching.

**Attach to Body:** Position each arm at the upper side of the body, just below the "shoulder" (the narrowed top section). Using a long length of MC yarn and a long tapestry needle, stitch through the top of the arm, through the body, and through the top of the opposite arm, then back again — repeat 4–5 times. Pull firmly to create a soft-jointed effect. Knot and bury the end.

### Step 7: Seam and Stuff the Legs
Hold 2 leg pieces (RS together). Seam the long sides. Position the foot sole piece at the bottom opening, pin and sew in place around the oval. Leave the top edge open. Turn RS out. Stuff firmly. Close the top edge.

**Attach to Body:** Position each leg at the lower side of the body. Attach in the same way as the arms — stitch through leg, body, and opposite leg, pulling firmly for a soft joint. Knot and bury.

### Step 8: Attach the Head
Position the head on top of the body, centered. Using a long length of MC yarn, stitch around the base of the head, catching the top of the body, going around several times, and pulling firmly to secure. The head can be positioned slightly forward (looking down) for a more charming expression.

> ✅ **Bear Assembly Check:** Body stuffed and closed ✔ | Head stuffed, eyes attached, snout attached ✔ | Ears attached ✔ | Arms attached (soft joint) ✔ | Legs attached (soft joint) ✔ | Face embroidered ✔

---

## ═══════════════════════════════════════
## PART TWO: THE STEAMPUNK COSTUME
## ═══════════════════════════════════════

> **All costume pieces are knitted on US 6 / 4 mm needles using smooth worsted weight yarn, unless otherwise noted.**
> **Gauge for costume: 20 sts × 28 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) in St st.**

---

## 🎩 THE BAKERBOY HAT

The bakerboy (newsboy/flat cap style) hat consists of a **crown** (6 panels), a **brim**, and a **hat band**.

**Yarn:** CC4 (Charcoal Gray)
**Needles:** US 6 / 4 mm

### Crown Panels (Make 6)

The crown is made from 6 identical wedge-shaped panels seamed together to form a rounded cap.

**CO 3 sts.**
**Row 1 (RS):** Knit. *(3 sts)*
**Row 2 (WS):** Purl. *(3 sts)*
**Row 3 (RS):** Kfb, k1, kfb. *(5 sts)*
**Row 4 (WS):** Purl. *(5 sts)*
**Row 5 (RS):** Kfb, k3, kfb. *(7 sts)*
**Row 6 (WS):** Purl. *(7 sts)*
**Row 7 (RS):** Kfb, k5, kfb. *(9 sts)*
**Row 8 (WS):** Purl. *(9 sts)*
**Row 9 (RS):** Kfb, k7, kfb. *(11 sts)*
**Row 10 (WS):** Purl. *(11 sts)*

> ✅ **Check:** 11 sts at widest point. ✔

**Work even in St st for 6 rows** (Rows 11–16). *(11 sts)*

**BO all sts.** Cut yarn.

**Make 6 panels.**

**Assemble Crown:** With RS together, seam the panels together along their long edges, alternating sides to distribute bulk. When all 6 are joined, you have a dome shape. The narrow (cast-on) points all meet at the top center — gather these together with a few stitches. Sew a small brass button over the gathered center point. Turn RS out.

> ✅ **Math check:** 6 panels × 11 sts wide each = approximately 10 inches (25 cm) circumference at the brim edge. Bear head circumference is approximately 10 inches (25 cm). ✔

### Hat Band

**CO 4 sts** in CC4.
**Knit every row (G st) for 52 rows.**
**BO all sts.**

The band is approximately 7.5 inches (19 cm) long. Sew the short ends together. Attach the band around the bottom edge of the assembled crown panels, seaming in place.

### Brim

**CO 20 sts** in CC4.
**Row 1 (RS):** Knit. *(20 sts)*
**Row 2 (WS):** Purl. *(20 sts)*
**Row 3 (RS):** Kfb, k18, kfb. *(22 sts)*
**Row 4 (WS):** Purl. *(22 sts)*
**Row 5 (RS):** Knit. *(22 sts)*
**Row 6 (WS):** Purl. *(22 sts)*
**Row 7 (RS):** Ssk, k18, k2tog. *(20 sts)*
**Row 8 (WS):** Purl. *(20 sts)*
**BO all sts.**

> ✅ **Check:** Brim is 20 → 22 → 20 sts, shaping to a gentle curve. ✔

**Stiffen the brim:** Cut a piece of stiff card to fit inside the knitted brim. Fold the brim piece in half (WS together, long edge to long edge), insert the card, and whipstitch the open edges together. The brim is now a stiff, slightly curved visor. Attach the straight edge of the brim to the front of the hat band, sewing firmly in place.

---

## 👖 BAGGY TROUSERS

The trousers are knitted in two identical leg pieces, joined at the top to form a waistband.

**Yarn:** CC1 (Deep Olive Green or Navy)
**Needles:** US 6 / 4 mm

### Trouser Legs (Make 2)

**CO 28 sts.**

**Waistband cuff (folded):**
**Rows 1–6:** Work in G st (knit every row). *(28 sts)*

**Leg body:**
**Row 7 (RS):** Knit. *(28 sts)*
**Row 8 (WS):** Purl. *(28 sts)*
**Rep Rows 7–8 until leg measures 3 inches (7.5 cm) from waistband cuff**, ending with a WS row. This is approximately 20 more rows (Rows 7–26). *(28 sts)*

**Shape Ankle Cuff:**
**Row 27 (RS):** Knit. *(28 sts)*
**Row 28 (WS):** Purl. *(28 sts)*
**Row 29 (RS):** [K2, p2] rep to end. *(28 sts)* — begin 2×2 rib
**Row 30 (WS):** [P2, k2] rep to end. *(28 sts)*
**Rep Rows 29–30 twice more** (4 rows of rib total).
**BO all sts loosely in rib pattern.**

> ✅ **Math check:** 28 sts ÷ 4 = 7 repeats of k2, p2. ✔

**Make 2 leg pieces.**

### Trouser Assembly

**Join at Crotch:** With RS facing, hold both leg pieces side by side. Starting at the right-hand edge (waistband end) of one piece, and the left-hand edge of the other, whipstitch the two pieces together along approximately **8 rows** up from the waistband (this is the crotch seam). The two legs now hang below the joined section.

**Waistband:** At the top, fold the 6 rows of garter stitch over to form a casing. Thread a **twisted cord** (made from CC1 yarn — cut 3 strands each 24 inches long, knot together at each end, twist together tightly, fold in half and let twist back on itself) through the casing by leaving a small gap in the seam before sewing. Tie the cord at the front in a bow.

**Seam the inseam** of each leg closed from ankle to crotch using mattress stitch.

**Optional Knee Patches:** Cut two small rectangles of dark brown felt (approx. 0.75 × 0.5 inch / 2 × 1.5 cm). Sew or glue one to the front of each knee area using small stitches in matching thread.

---

## 🧥 THE STEAMPUNK WAISTCOAT

The waistcoat is knitted in three pieces: **Left Front**, **Right Front**, and **Back**, joined at the shoulders.

**Yarn:** CC2 (Burnt Orange / Teal / Burgundy) for main; CC3 (Cream or Gold) for trim
**Needles:** US 6 / 4 mm

> **Waistcoat Gauge:** 20 sts × 28 rows = 4 inches (10 cm).
> The bear's chest/body circumference is approx. 12 inches (30 cm), so each front panel = 3 inches (15 sts) and back = 6 inches (30 sts), with ease for a slightly loose steampunk look.

### Waistcoat Back

**CO 32 sts** in CC2.

**Trim Row (RS):** Join CC3. Knit 2 rows in CC3. Cut CC3.
**Switch back to CC2.**

**Row 1 (RS):** Knit. *(32 sts)*
**Row 2 (WS):** Purl. *(32 sts)*
**Rep Rows 1–2 until back measures 4 inches (10 cm) from cast-on**, ending with a WS row. This is approximately **28 rows** of St st in CC2.

**Shape Armholes:**
**Row 29 (RS):** BO 3 sts, k to end. *(29 sts)*
**Row 30 (WS):** BO 3 sts, p to end. *(26 sts)*
**Row 31 (RS):** Ssk, k to last 2 sts, k2tog. *(24 sts)*
**Row 32 (WS):** P2tog, p to last 2 sts, p2tog. *(22 sts)*

> ✅ **Check:** 22 sts remain after armhole shaping. ✔

**Work even in St st for 14 rows** (Rows 33–46). *(22 sts)*

**BO all sts.** Cut yarn, leaving a long tail.

### Waistcoat Right Front

**CO 16 sts** in CC2.

**Trim Row (RS):** Join CC3. Knit 2 rows in CC3. Cut CC3.
**Switch back to CC2.**

**Row 1 (RS):** Knit. *(16 sts)*
**Row 2 (WS):** Purl. *(16 sts)*
**Rep Rows 1–2 for 28 rows total** (same length as back to armhole). *(16 sts)*

**Shape Armhole:**
**Row 29 (RS):** BO 3 sts, k to end. *(13 sts)*
**Row 30 (WS):** Purl. *(13 sts)*
**Row 31 (RS):** Ssk, k to end. *(12 sts)*
**Row 32 (WS):** Purl. *(12 sts)*

> ✅ **Check:** 12 sts after armhole shaping. ✔

**Work even for 8 rows** (Rows 33–40). *(12 sts)*

**Shape Neck:**
**Row 41 (RS):** BO 4 sts (neck edge), k to end. *(8 sts)*
**Row 42 (WS):** Purl. *(8 sts)*
**Row 43 (RS):** BO 2 sts, k to end. *(6 sts)*
**Row 44 (WS):** Purl. *(6 sts)*
**Row 45 (RS):** Ssk, k to end. *(5 sts)*
**Row 46 (WS):** Purl. *(5 sts)*

**BO remaining 5 sts.** Cut yarn.

> ✅ **Check:** Right Front ends with 5 shoulder sts, same as back shoulder (22 sts back ÷ 2 sides = 11 sts each side, minus some for back neck = approx 5–6 sts per shoulder side). ✔

### Waistcoat Left Front

Work identically to Right Front, **reversing all shaping**:
- Armhole bind-off occurs on a WS row (bind off at the beginning of a WS purl row).
- Neck bind-off occurs at the end of RS rows / beginning of WS rows (the opposite edge).

Specifically:
**CO 16 sts** in CC2.
Work trim rows and St st as for Right Front for 28 rows.

**Row 29 (RS):** Knit. *(16 sts)*
**Row 30 (WS):** BO 3 sts, p to end. *(13 sts)* — armhole on left
**Row 31 (RS):** Knit to last 2 sts, k2tog. *(12 sts)*
**Row 32 (WS):** Purl. *(12 sts)*

**Work even for 8 rows** (Rows 33–40). *(12 sts)*

**Shape Neck:**
**Row 41 (WS):** BO 4 sts at neck edge (beginning of WS row), p to end. *(8 sts)*
**Row 42 (RS):** Knit. *(8 sts)*
**Row 43 (WS):** BO 2 sts, p to end. *(6 sts)*
**Row 44 (RS):** Knit. *(6 sts)*
**Row 45 (WS):** P2tog, p to end. *(5 sts)*
**Row 46 (RS):** Knit. *(5 sts)*

**BO remaining 5 sts.**

### Button Bands

**Right Front Button Band (buttonholes):**
With RS facing and CC3, pick up and knit **28 sts** along the right front center edge (the straight vertical edge with no armhole).

**Row 1 (WS):** Knit (G st). *(28 sts)*
**Row 2 (RS — Buttonhole Row):** K3, [yo, k2tog, k5] 3 times, yo, k2tog, k3.
This places **4 buttonholes** evenly spaced. *(28 sts)*
**Row 3 (WS):** Knit. *(28 sts)*
**BO all sts knitwise.**

> ✅ **Buttonhole Math Check:** K3 + [yo, k2tog, k5] × 3 + yo, k2tog, k3 = 3 + (7×3) + 5 = 3 + 21 + 5 = 29. Adjust: K2, [k5, yo, k2tog] × 3, k5, yo, k2tog, k2 = 2 + (7×3) + 7 = 30. Let's use a clean version: K3, *yo, k2tog, k5; rep from * 2 more times, yo, k2tog, k3 = 3 + 7 + 7 + 7 + 5 = 29. **Corrected:** CO pick-up is 28 sts. Buttonhole row: K2, [yo, k2tog, k5] 3 times, yo, k2tog, k2 = 2 + 7 + 7 + 7 + 5 = 28. ✔

**Corrected Buttonhole Row (RS):** K2, [yo, k2tog, k5] 3 times, yo, k2tog, k2. *(28 sts, 4 buttonholes created)*

**Left Front Button Band (plain):**
With RS facing and CC3, pick up and knit **28 sts** along the left front center edge.
**Row 1 (WS):** Knit. *(28 sts)*
**Row 2 (RS):** Knit. *(28 sts)*
**Row 3 (WS):** Knit. *(28 sts)*
**BO all sts knitwise.**

### Chest Pockets (Make 2)

The pockets are decorative — they are sewn onto the front of the waistcoat, not knitted in. Each pocket is a small knitted rectangle.

**CO 8 sts** in CC2.
**Row 1 (RS):** Knit. *(8 sts)*
**Row 2 (WS):** Purl. *(8 sts)*
**Rep Rows 1–2 for 8 rows total.** *(8 sts)*

**Pocket Top Trim:**
**Join CC3.** Knit 2 rows. **BO all sts.** Cut yarn.

**Make 2 pockets.**

Each pocket is approximately 0.75 × 0.6 inches (1.9 × 1.5 cm).

### Waistcoat Assembly

1. **Join Shoulders:** With RS together, align 5 shoulder sts from Right Front with corresponding sts on Right Back shoulder. Use a three-needle bind-off or whipstitch to join. Repeat for Left Front and Left Back shoulder.

2. **Seam Sides:** With RS together, seam the side edges of the front panels to the corresponding side edges of the back, from hem to armhole, leaving the armhole open.

3. **Attach Pockets:** Pin one pocket to each front panel, positioning approximately **1.5 inches (4 cm)** from the front edge and **1 inch (2.5 cm)** from the hem (trim row). The CC3 trim is at the top. Sew the pocket firmly to the front along the bottom and two side edges, leaving the top open. Optional: sew a tiny decorative button to each pocket top.

4. **Sew Buttons:** Sew 4 brass shank buttons to the Left Front button band, aligning with the buttonholes on the Right Front. Position the buttons through the band so they are visible on the RS of the waistcoat.

5. **Neck & Armhole Trim (optional):** With CC3 and US 6 / 4 mm needles, pick up sts around the neck edge and knit 2 rows of G st, then BO. Repeat for each armhole opening. This gives a neat, finished look.

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## FINISHING THE COMPLETE BEAR

### Dressing Cogsworth

1. **Trousers first:** Gently slip the trouser legs over the bear's legs. Tie the cord at the front in a neat bow. The baggy style should puddle slightly at the ankle cuffs.

2. **Waistcoat:** Slip the waistcoat over the bear's arms, through the armhole openings. Button up the four brass buttons. Smooth the waistcoat so the trim rows sit neatly at the hem and the pockets sit squarely on the chest.

3. **Hat:** Sit the bakerboy cap on the bear's head at a rakish angle — slightly tilted to one side for extra steampunk character. The brim should sit above the eyes. The hat can be tacked in place with a stitch or two to the head if desired.

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## FINAL TIPS & NOTES

> 🔧 **Steampunk Embellishments (optional extras):**
> - Glue a tiny gear charm or watchface finding to the front of the hat.
> - Add a small length of gold or copper chain looping from one waistcoat pocket to a button (like a pocket watch chain).
> - Embroider a small gear motif on the hat brim in gold thread.
> - Add tiny copper or brass bead details to the trouser seams.

> 🧸 **Caring for Cogsworth:**
> - Spot clean only due to the stuffing and bouclé yarn texture.
> - Reshape while damp if the bear loses his plumpness.
> - Store away from direct sunlight to prevent the dark brown from fading.

> 🎁 **As a Gift:**
> - This bear makes a wonderful display piece, heirloom toy (for children over 3 with no loose button eyes), or unique gift for steampunk enthusiasts.
> - Present him in a small gift box lined with brown tissue paper, with a small tag reading "Cogsworth — Chief Engineer, Steampunk Industries."

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## QUICK REFERENCE — PIECES CHECKLIST

| Piece | Quantity | Yarn | Needles |
|---|---|---|---|
| Body | 2 | MC | US 8 |
| Head | 2 | MC | US 8 |
| Snout | 1 | MC | US 8 |
| Ears | 4 (2 pairs) | MC | US 8 |
| Arms | 4 (2 pairs) | MC | US 8 |
| Legs | 4 (2 pairs) | MC | US 8 |
| Foot Soles | 2 | MC | US 8 |
| Hat Crown Panels | 6 | CC4 | US 6 |
| Hat Band | 1 | CC4 | US 6 |
| Hat Brim | 1 | CC4 | US 6 |
| Trouser Legs | 2 | CC1 | US 6 |
| Waistcoat Back | 1 | CC2 + CC3 | US 6 |
| Waistcoat Right Front | 1 | CC2 + CC3 | US 6 |
| Waistcoat Left Front | 1 | CC2 + CC3 | US 6 |
| Chest Pockets | 2 | CC2 + CC3 | US 6 |

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*Pattern designed for intermediate knitters. All pieces are knitted flat on two straight needles throughout. Pattern is for personal use — please do not sell bears made from this pattern commercially without permission.*

*Happy Knitting — may Cogsworth keep your clocks wound and your adventures on time!* ⚙️🐻🎩

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