purlJam

<pattern>

# COMPLEX CABLE & DIAMOND PULLOVER
## Advanced Drop-Shoulder Machine-Knit Sweater
### Featuring Interlocking Diamond Lattice and Twisted Braid Cables

**Difficulty Level:** Advanced  
**Technique Focus:** Manual cable manipulation on flat-bed machine, twisted stitches, dimensional texture

---

## MACHINE_SETUP

**Machine Type:** 10-gauge flat-bed knitting machine (e.g., Silver Reed SK840, Brother KH-900 series, or equivalent standard gauge machine)

**Bed Configuration:** Main bed only for body and sleeves; ribber attachment required for neckband only

**Tension Dial Settings:**
- Main tension for Vislone chunky yarn: Start at T7-8 (adjust based on swatch)
- Ribber tension for 1×1 rib neckband: Main bed T7, Ribber bed T5

**Cast-On Method:** 
- Waste yarn cast-on with ravel cord (8-10 rows waste yarn in contrasting color)
- OR closed-edge cast-on using latch tool for finished hem edge
- Attach cast-on comb and hang claw weights (minimum 4-6 weights distributed evenly)

**Required Tools:**
- 3-prong and 2-prong transfer tools
- Single-prong transfer tool or cable needle
- Extra set of needles or third needle bar for cable holding
- Stitch markers or yarn ties
- Row counter
- Claw weights (multiple sets)
- Latch tool for bind-off
- Ribber attachment
- Yarn tensioner appropriate for chunky yarn

**Carriage Setup:**
- Part button: OFF (normal knitting position)
- Needle holding levers: Use as needed during neckline shaping
- Change knob: Set to KC (normal knit)

**Swatch Instructions:**
1. Cast on 40 needles (includes 1 full 16-stitch cable repeat + edge stitches)
2. Knit 8 rows waste yarn, insert ravel cord
3. RC000: Knit 10 rows stocking stitch at T7
4. RC010: Begin cable pattern following Chart A (one 16-stitch repeat centered)
5. Work through 3 complete cable pattern repeats (approximately 36 rows)
6. RC046: Knit 10 rows stocking stitch
7. Knit 6 rows waste yarn and remove from machine
8. Steam lightly, remove waste yarn, measure gauge over cable pattern section only

---

## MATERIALS

**Yarn:** Vislone (or substitute chunky weight yarn)
- Fiber Content: 100% acrylic or wool blend
- Weight: Chunky (5-Bulky)
- Yardage: Approximately 200-220 yards per 100g skein
- Recommended Gauge: 2.5-3 sts per inch on 10-gauge machine

**Yarn Requirements (by size):**
- **Size S:** 800g (8 skeins)
- **Size M:** 900g (9 skeins)
- **Size L:** 1100g (11 skeins)
- **Size XL:** 1200g (12 skeins)

*Note: Cable patterns consume 20-30% more yarn than plain stocking stitch. Purchase extra skeins from same dye lot.*

**Additional Materials:**
- Waste yarn (smooth acrylic in contrasting color): 50g
- Ravel cord (crochet cotton or smooth string)
- Tapestry needle for seaming
- Blocking wires or sweater board (optional but recommended)
- Steam iron and pressing cloth

---

## GAUGE_AND_TENSION

**Critical Gauge (after steaming):**
- **Stitch Gauge:** 2.8 stitches per inch (28 stitches = 10 cm) in cable pattern
- **Row Gauge:** 3.5 rows per inch (35 rows = 10 cm) in cable pattern

**Measuring Your Gauge:**
1. Work swatch as described in Machine Setup (minimum 6" × 6" / 15 cm × 15 cm)
2. Remove from machine with waste yarn
3. Steam lightly using pressing cloth and allow to dry completely (cables will relax and expand)
4. Measure over the cable pattern section, avoiding edges
5. Count stitches horizontally over 4" (10 cm) - should equal 11-12 stitches
6. Count rows vertically over 4" (10 cm) - should equal 14 rows
7. **Adjustment:** If gauge is too tight (more sts/inch), increase tension dial by 1. If too loose, decrease tension dial by 1.

**Gauge Math Verification:**
- 40" chest = 40 × 2.8 = 112 stitches ✓
- 24" length = 24 × 3.5 = 84 rows ✓

**Important:** Cable patterns draw in significantly. Your swatch may measure narrower than calculated - this is normal. Always measure after steaming.

---

## SCHEMATIC_AND_SIZES

**Sizes:** S (M, L, XL)  
**Finished Chest Circumference:** 40 (44, 48, 52)" / 102 (112, 122, 132) cm  
**Intended Ease:** 4-6" / 10-15 cm positive ease (relaxed fit)

**Schematic Measurements:**

### BACK AND FRONT (identical):
- **Width:** 20 (22, 24, 26)" / 51 (56, 61, 66) cm
- **Length from shoulder:** 24 (25, 26, 27)" / 61 (63.5, 66, 68.5) cm
- **Shoulder width:** 6 (6.5, 7, 7.5)" / 15 (16.5, 18, 19) cm each side
- **Neck width:** 8 (9, 10, 10)" / 20 (23, 25, 25) cm
- **Armhole depth:** 9 (9.5, 10, 10.5)" / 23 (24, 25, 26.5) cm

### SLEEVES:
- **Cuff width:** 10 (10, 11, 11)" / 25 (25, 28, 28) cm
- **Upper arm width:** 18 (19, 20, 21)" / 45.5 (48, 51, 53) cm
- **Length from cuff:** 18 (18.5, 19, 19.5)" / 45.5 (47, 48, 49.5) cm

**Stitch Counts (calculated at 2.8 sts/inch):**

| Size | S | M | L | XL |
|------|---|---|---|-----|
| Back/Front width | 112 sts | 124 sts | 134 sts | 146 sts |
| Shoulder | 17 sts | 18 sts | 20 sts | 21 sts each |
| Neck | 22 sts | 25 sts | 28 sts | 28 sts |
| Sleeve cuff | 28 sts | 28 sts | 31 sts | 31 sts |
| Sleeve upper | 50 sts | 53 sts | 56 sts | 59 sts |

**Cable Pattern Placement:**
- **Sizes S & M:** 2 cable repeats (32 sts) centered on Front and Back
- **Sizes L & XL:** 3 cable repeats (48 sts) centered on Front and Back
- **All Sleeves:** 1 cable repeat (16 sts) centered

---

## BACK_PANEL

**Stitch Count:** 112 (124, 134, 146) stitches  
**Cable Pattern:** 32 (32, 48, 48) stitches centered; remaining stitches in stocking stitch

### SETUP AND CAST-ON

**Needle Arrangement:**
- **Size S:** Needles 56L to 56R (112 needles)
- **Size M:** Needles 62L to 62R (124 needles)
- **Size L:** Needles 67L to 67R (134 needles)
- **Size XL:** Needles 73L to 73R (146 needles)

**Cast-On (COL - Carriage On Left):**
1. Push selected needles to D position
2. Thread waste yarn, T7, knit 8 rows
3. Insert ravel cord, knit 1 row
4. Change to main yarn (Vislone chunky)
5. RC000, T7-8 (adjust based on your swatch)
6. Hang cast-on comb with claw weights

### BODY - STRAIGHT KNITTING

**Mark Cable Positions:**
- **Size S:** Mark needles 16L-1L and 1R-16R (32 sts total, centered)
- **Size M:** Mark needles 16L-1L and 1R-16R (32 sts total, centered)
- **Size L:** Mark needles 24L-1L and 1R-24R (48 sts total, centered)
- **Size XL:** Mark needles 24L-1L and 1R-24R (48 sts total, centered)

Use stitch markers or tie contrasting yarn around marked needles.

**RC000-RC010:** Knit 10 rows stocking stitch (establishes even base). COL/COR alternating.

**RC011 (COL):** BEGIN CABLE PATTERN  
Follow Chart A for your size. Cable crossings happen every 6 rows.

**Cable Row Schedule:**
- RC011, RC017, RC023, RC029, RC035, RC041... (every 6th row starting from RC011)

**Manual Cable Technique on Machine:**

*For each cable crossing row (refer to Chart A):*

1. Knit to cable crossing point, stop carriage
2. **For C4F (Cable 4 Front - Left Twist):**
   - Remove 4 marked stitches (2+2) from needles using transfer tool
   - Place first 2 sts on cable needle/spare needles
   - Place next 2 sts back on original needles
   - Place held 2 sts on the following 2 needles (crossing complete)
3. **For C4B (Cable 4 Back - Right Twist):**
   - Remove 4 marked stitches
   - Place next 2 sts on cable needle (hold in back)
   - Place first 2 sts back on original needles
   - Place held 2 sts on the following 2 needles
4. **For T3L/T3R (Twist 3 - Diamond edges):**
   - Use single transfer tool to swap positions of 2 adjacent stitches (detailed in Chart A notes)
5. Continue knitting across row, COL to COR
6. Knit 5 plain rows (RC+5)
7. Next cable crossing row

**Body Length:**

- **RC000-RC084:** Knit to armhole (24" × 3.5 rows/inch = 84 rows for all sizes)
  - Size S: RC084
  - Size M: RC088 (25" × 3.5 = 88 rows)
  - Size L: RC091 (26" × 3.5 = 91 rows)
  - Size XL: RC095 (27" × 3.5 = 95 rows)

**Armhole Note:** This is a drop-shoulder design with NO armhole shaping. Continue straight.

**Continue Straight:**

- RC084-RC116 (Size S): Continue cable pattern for back neck (total 116 rows = 33" length)
- RC088-RC120 (Size M): 120 rows total
- RC091-RC123 (Size L): 123 rows total
- RC095-RC127 (Size XL): 127 rows total

*Math check: Armhole depth 9" × 3.5 = 31.5 rows + body = ~115-127 rows total ✓*

### SHOULDER AND NECK SHAPING

**Shoulder shaping (Back neck is straight):**

At RC116 (120, 123, 127) - ready to shape shoulders:

**Method: Bind off shoulders, leave neck stitches on waste yarn**

1. **COL:** Knit to center
2. Place center 22 (25, 28, 28) stitches on waste yarn for back neck using latch tool or transfer to spare needles
3. **Right Shoulder:**
   - Needles from center to 17R (18R, 20R, 21R): 17 (18, 20, 21) sts
   - Knit 2 rows waste yarn, remove from machine
4. **Left Shoulder:**
   - Needles from 17L (18L, 20L, 21L) to center: 17 (18, 20, 21) sts