purlJam

<pattern>
# Corset Bustier Cup Top

A structured, supportive bustier top featuring molded cups, an underbust band with boning channels, and adjustable corset-style lacing at the back. This intermediate pattern combines shaping techniques with functional construction details for a flattering, wearable garment.

## Sizes
Small (Medium, Large)
- **Bust circumference**: 32-34 (36-38, 40-42)"
- **Underbust circumference**: 26 (30, 34)"
- **Cup depth**: Approximately 6.5 (7, 7.5)"

**Sample shown in size Medium**

## Materials
- **Yarn**: Worsted weight (#4) yarn in main color, approximately 600 (700, 800) yards
  - *Recommended*: Cotton or cotton-blend yarn for structure and breathability
- **Hook**: US Size H/8 (5.0 mm) for main fabric
- **Hook**: US Size G/6 (4.0 mm) for ribbing and edging
- **Notions**:
  - 8-10 metal grommets (½" diameter) OR metal eyelets
  - 2 yards of ½" wide ribbon or cording for lacing
  - 4-6 pieces of spiral steel boning, 8-10" length (or plastic zip ties as budget alternative)
  - Tapestry needle
  - Stitch markers
  - Optional: Underwire for cups (UK size as appropriate for your bust)
  - Sewing needle and coordinating thread

## Gauge
With larger hook in half double crochet:
**16 sts × 10 rows = 4"**

**Gauge is critical for proper fit. Take time to check your gauge and adjust hook size if needed.**

## Abbreviations
- ch = chain
- sl st = slip stitch
- sc = single crochet
- hdc = half double crochet
- dc = double crochet
- inc = increase (work 2 sts in same st)
- dec = decrease (hdc2tog or sc2tog as specified)
- hdc2tog = half double crochet 2 together
- BLO = back loop only
- FLO = front loop only
- RS = right side
- WS = wrong side
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- sp(s) = space(s)

## Pattern Notes
1. Cups are worked separately from the bottom center upward in rows with increases for shaping.
2. Underbust band is worked in one piece with integrated boning channels.
3. Turning chain 2 counts as first hdc throughout.
4. Stitch counts are provided at end of each row in parentheses.
5. Work with RS facing unless otherwise noted.
6. For best results, try on as you go and adjust length as needed.

## Special Stitches
**Extended Single Crochet (esc)**: Insert hook in st, yo and pull up loop, yo and pull through first loop on hook, yo and pull through both loops on hook.

**Corset Eyelet**: Ch 2, skip next 2 sts, dc in next st.

## Instructions

### RIGHT CUP (make 1)

**Foundation**: With larger hook, ch 7.

**Row 1 (RS)**: Hdc in 3rd ch from hook (skipped ch counts as first hdc), hdc in each ch across. (6 hdc)

**Row 2**: Ch 2 (counts as hdc here and throughout), turn, hdc in same st (inc made), hdc in each st across to last st, 2 hdc in last st (inc made). (8 hdc)

**Row 3**: Ch 2, turn, hdc in each st across. (8 hdc)

**Row 4**: Ch 2, turn, hdc in same st, hdc in each st across to last st, 2 hdc in last st. (10 hdc)

**Row 5**: Ch 2, turn, hdc in each st across. (10 hdc)

**Row 6**: Ch 2, turn, hdc in same st, hdc in each st across to last st, 2 hdc in last st. (12 hdc)

**Rows 7-8**: Ch 2, turn, hdc in each st across. (12 hdc)

**Row 9**: Ch 2, turn, hdc in same st, hdc in each st across to last st, 2 hdc in last st. (14 hdc)

**Row 10**: Ch 2, turn, hdc in each st across. (14 hdc)

**Row 11**: Ch 2, turn, hdc in same st, hdc in next 3 sts, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 4 sts, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 3 sts, 2 hdc in last st. (17 hdc)

**Row 12**: Ch 2, turn, hdc in each st across. (17 hdc)

**SIZE SMALL ONLY:**
**Rows 13-14**: Ch 2, turn, hdc in each st across. (17 hdc)

**Row 15**: Ch 2, turn, hdc in next 4 sts, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 7 sts, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 4 sts. (19 hdc)

**Rows 16-22**: Ch 2, turn, hdc in each st across. (19 hdc)

Skip to Cup Shaping.

**SIZES MEDIUM AND LARGE:**
**Row 13**: Ch 2, turn, hdc in same st, hdc in next 4 sts, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 5 sts, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 4 sts, 2 hdc in last st. (20 hdc)

**Rows 14-15**: Ch 2, turn, hdc in each st across. (20 hdc)

**SIZE MEDIUM ONLY:**
**Row 16**: Ch 2, turn, hdc in next 5 sts, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 8 sts, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 5 sts. (22 hdc)

**Rows 17-24**: Ch 2, turn, hdc in each st across. (22 hdc)

Skip to Cup Shaping.

**SIZE LARGE ONLY:**
**Row 16**: Ch 2, turn, hdc in same st, hdc in next 5 sts, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 6 sts, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 5 sts, 2 hdc in last st. (23 hdc)

**Rows 17-18**: Ch 2, turn, hdc in each st across. (23 hdc)

**Row 19**: Ch 2, turn, hdc in next 6 sts, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 9 sts, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 6 sts. (25 hdc)

**Rows 20-26**: Ch 2, turn, hdc in each st across. (25 hdc)

### CUP SHAPING - Top Edge (All Sizes)

**Row 1**: Ch 2, turn, hdc2tog, hdc in each st across to last 2 sts, hdc2tog. (17, 20, 23 hdc)

**Row 2**: Ch 2, turn, hdc in each st across. (17, 20, 23 hdc)

**Row 3**: Ch 2, turn, hdc2tog, hdc in each st across to last 2 sts, hdc2tog. (15, 18, 21 hdc)

**Row 4**: Ch 2, turn, hdc in each st across. (15, 18, 21 hdc)

**Row 5**: Ch 2, turn, hdc2tog, hdc in each st across to last 2 sts, hdc2tog. (13, 16, 19 hdc)

Fasten off, leaving an 18" tail for seaming.

### LEFT CUP (make 1)

Work exactly as for Right Cup. Cups are symmetrical.

### UNDERBUST BAND

The band is worked in one long piece that will wrap around the torso, with channels for boning worked in.

**Foundation**: With larger hook, ch 25.

**Row 1 (RS)**: Hdc in 3rd ch from hook and in each ch across. (24 hdc)

**Row 2**: Ch 2, turn, hdc in each st across. (24 hdc)

**Rows 3-4**: Ch 2, turn, hdc BLO in each st across. (24 hdc) 
*These BLO rows create a ridge for boning channel.*

**Rows 5-10**: Ch 2, turn, hdc in each st across. (24 hdc)

**Rows 11-12**: Ch 2, turn, hdc BLO in each st across. (24 hdc)
*Second boning channel created.*

**Rows 13-18**: Ch 2, turn, hdc in each st across. (24 hdc)

**Repeat Rows 11-18** until band measures:
- Small: 12" (approximately 48 rows total)
- Medium: 14" (approximately 56 rows total)  
- Large: 16" (approximately 64 rows total)

**This completes the FRONT section of band where cups will attach.**

**Continue for BACK section:**

Continue repeating pattern of 6 rows hdc, then 2 rows BLO, until entire band measures:
- Small: 24" 
- Medium: 28"
- Large: 32"

Fasten off.

### LACING EDGE REINFORCEMENT (make 2)

These pieces reinforce the back edges where grommets will be placed.

**Foundation**: With smaller hook, ch 9.

**Row 1**: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (8 sc)

**Row 2**: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (8 sc)

**Repeat Row 2** until piece measures same length as band (24, 28, 32").

Fasten off. Make second piece identically.

### ASSEMBLY

**Step 1 - Attach Cups to Band**:
Position cups on front section of band. The bottom center of each cup should be placed approximately 2" from each end of the front section, with approximately 1-2" spacing between cups at center. Pin in place.

Using tapestry needle and yarn tails, whipstitch bottom and side edges of cups to band, working through both layers. Reinforce stress points with extra stitches.

**Step 2 - Create Underwire Channels** (optional):
If using underwire, work a row of sc along the bottom edge of each cup, then work a second row of sc 1" above, creating a channel. Insert underwire and stitch channel closed at sides.

**Step 3 - Insert Boning**:
Cut boning pieces to fit within the channels created by BLO rows, leaving ½" shorter than channel length. Insert boning into channels. Using sewing needle and thread, tack channels closed at each end.

**Step 4 - Attach Lacing Reinforcement**:
Place one reinforcement strip along each short end of band (back edges), with WS of strip to RS of band. Using smaller hook and working through both layers, sl st or sc strips to band edges.

**Step 5 - Install Grommets**:
Following grommet manufacturer's instructions, install 4-5 grommets evenly spaced along each reinforced back edge, beginning 2" from top and bottom edges. Space grommets approximately 2-3" apart.

*Alternative*: For crocheted eyelets, work one round of sc around entire band, working (ch 2, skip 2 sc) at eyelet positions on back edges.

**Step 6 - Straps** (make 2):
With smaller hook, ch 8.

**Row 1**: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (7 sc)

**Row 2**: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (7 sc)

**Repeat Row 2** until strap measures 14-18" or desired length.

Fasten off.

Attach one end of each strap to top corner of cups using whipstitch. Leave other ends unattached for tie-style straps, or attach to back of band for fixed straps (try on to determine placement).

### EDGING

With RS facing and smaller hook, join yarn at any point on top edge.

**Round 1**: Work sc evenly around entire top edge of bustier, working 3 sc in corners and sc2tog at any inner curves for smooth fit. Join with sl st to first sc.

**Round 2**: Ch 1, sc in each st around, adjusting for fit. Join with sl st to first sc.

Fasten off.

Repeat edging around bottom edge of band if desired.

### FINISHING

**Lacing**:
Thread ribbon or cording through grommets in corset-lacing style (criss-crossing from bottom to top). Leave ends long for tying.

**Weaving in Ends**:
Weave in all remaining yarn tails securely, especially at stress points.

**Blocking**:
Lightly steam or wet block if needed, being careful not to distort cup shaping. Do not block if underwire is already inserted.

**Fit Adjustments**:
Try on bustier and adjust lacing for fit. Straps can be shortened or lengthened as needed. For additional support, consider adding silicone gripper elastic to the inside top edge of the band.

## Styling Notes
- Wear over a camisole or bodysuit for modest coverage
- Pair with high-waisted pants or skirts
- Layer under a blazer for edgy sophistication
- Adjust lacing tightness for comfort and desired silhouette

## Care Instructions
Hand wash in cool water with mild detergent. Remove boning if possible before washing. Lay flat to dry, reshaping cups as needed. Do not wring or twist.

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**Pattern Notes for Success**:
- The boning provides structure and prevents rolling at the band
- Cotton or cotton-blend yarn is recommended for breathability and structure
- If you