purlJam

# Cosy Worsted Weight Socks

**A beginner-friendly cuff-down sock pattern in warm worsted weight yarn**

---

## MATERIALS

- **Yarn:** Approximately 150-200g (200-270 metres) of worsted weight (aran/10-ply) yarn
  - Choose a yarn with at least 20% nylon content for durability if possible
  - This pattern makes ONE PAIR of socks (you'll need to knit twice!)
  
- **Needles:** 4mm (US 6) double-pointed needles (DPNs) - set of 4 or 5
  - *Alternative:* Two 4mm circular needles (60cm/24" length) for magic loop method
  - *Alternative:* One 4mm circular needle (80cm/32" or longer) for magic loop method

- **Notions:**
  - Stitch marker
  - Tapestry needle for grafting toe
  - Scissors

---

## SIZING

This pattern is written for three sizes:

- **Small (Child/Small Adult):** Fits foot circumference 18-19cm (7-7.5")
- **Medium (Average Women's):** Fits foot circumference 20-21.5cm (8-8.5")
- **Large (Average Men's):** Fits foot circumference 23-24cm (9-9.5")

*Pattern is written: Small (Medium, Large)*

**Finished measurements:**
- Leg length: 15cm (6") from cast on (adjustable)
- Foot length: Measured to fit (instructions below)
- Cuff circumference: 18 (20, 23)cm / 7 (8, 9)"

---

## TENSION (GAUGE)

**20 stitches and 28 rounds = 10cm (4") in stocking stitch (stockinette stitch) worked in the round**

*Tension is absolutely critical for socks!* Socks that are too loose will slip down and wear out quickly. Socks that are too tight will be uncomfortable.

**To check your tension:** Cast on 24 stitches and work in stocking stitch in the round for 12cm (5"). Measure your tension carefully. If you have more stitches per 10cm, go up a needle size. If you have fewer stitches, go down a needle size.

---

## PATTERN NOTES

- These socks are worked from the **cuff down** using the traditional heel flap method. This is the easiest method for beginners as you can try on your sock as you work!
- The pattern uses double-pointed needles (DPNs). If you prefer magic loop, see the notes below.
- The heel flap uses a slip stitch pattern which creates a durable, cushioned heel.
- Stitch counts are divisible by 4 to create an even k2, p2 ribbing.

**DPN Setup:** Stitches are distributed across 3 needles and worked with the 4th needle. You'll see instructions like "Needle 1, Needle 2, Needle 3" - this just refers to how the stitches are divided.

**Magic Loop Alternative:** If using magic loop, divide stitches in half with half on each circular needle or on each side of one long circular needle.

---

## ABBREVIATIONS

- **k** = knit
- **p** = purl
- **k2, p2 rib** = knit 2 stitches, purl 2 stitches, repeated
- **st(s)** = stitch(es)
- **sl** = slip stitch purlwise with yarn in back
- **ssk** = slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
- **k2tog** = knit 2 stitches together (right-leaning decrease)
- **pm** = place marker
- **sm** = slip marker

---

## INSTRUCTIONS

### CUFF

**Cast on:** 36 (40, 44) stitches using your preferred stretchy cast on method (long-tail cast on works well).

**Divide stitches onto needles:**
- **Using 4 DPNs:** Place 12 (14, 16) sts on Needle 1, 12 (12, 12) sts on Needle 2, 12 (14, 16) sts on Needle 3
- **Using magic loop:** Place 18 (20, 22) sts on each needle

Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist your stitches. Place marker for beginning of round.

**Rounds 1-12:** *K2, p2; repeat from * to end of round.

Repeat these 12 rounds to create approximately 4cm (1.5") of ribbing. The ribbing helps the sock cuff stay up on your leg.

---

### LEG

**Rounds 1-42:** Knit all stitches (stocking stitch/stockinette stitch).

This creates approximately 15cm (6") of leg length. You can adjust this to your preference - try the sock on as you go! For a shorter ankle sock, work only 20-25 rounds. For a taller boot sock, work 60+ rounds.

---

### HEEL FLAP

The heel is worked back and forth (flat knitting) on half of the stitches.

**Setup:** 
- Knit the first 18 (20, 22) stitches of the round. These stitches will form your heel flap.
- The remaining 18 (20, 22) stitches will rest while you work the heel - leave them on the needle(s).

**Heel Flap (worked back and forth on 18 (20, 22) stitches):**

**Row 1 (RS):** *Sl 1 purlwise (with yarn in back), k1; repeat from * to end of heel stitches.

**Row 2 (WS):** Sl 1 purlwise (with yarn in front), purl to end of heel stitches.

Repeat these 2 rows **16 (18, 20) more times** for a total of 34 (38, 42) rows. You should see a nice chain of slipped stitches along each edge - these are where you'll pick up stitches later.

*The heel flap should measure approximately 5 (5.5, 6)cm / 2 (2.25, 2.5)".*

---

### TURN HEEL

This creates the bottom of the heel using short rows. Stay with me - it's easier than it looks!

**Row 1 (RS):** Sl 1, k10 (11, 12), ssk, k1, turn work.

**Row 2 (WS):** Sl 1, p5 (5, 5), p2tog, p1, turn work.

**Row 3 (RS):** Sl 1, knit to 1 stitch before the gap (you'll see a small gap where you turned), ssk (this closes the gap), k1, turn work.

**Row 4 (WS):** Sl 1, purl to 1 stitch before the gap, p2tog (closing the gap), p1, turn work.

Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until all heel flap stitches have been worked. 

You should end with **12 (12, 14)** stitches remaining on your needle.

End having just completed a WS row, ready to work a RS row.

---

### GUSSET

Now you'll pick up stitches along the sides of the heel flap and decrease back to the original stitch count.

**Setup Round:**

**Needle 1 (heel needle):** With RS facing, knit across the 12 (12, 14) heel stitches. Pick up and knit **17 (19, 21) stitches** along the left side of the heel flap (pick up 1 stitch in each slipped stitch chain). Place marker for beginning of round.

**Needles 2 and 3 (instep):** Knit across the 18 (20, 22) held instep stitches.

**Needle 1 (continued):** Pick up and knit **17 (19, 21) stitches** along the right side of the heel flap. Knit to centre of heel (knit 6 (6, 7) stitches from the heel).

*Your beginning of round marker should now be at the centre bottom of the heel.*

**Total stitch count:** 64 (70, 78) stitches
- Needles 1 and 3 (sole): 23 (25, 28) stitches each
- Needle 2 (instep): 18 (20, 22) stitches

**Gusset Decrease Rounds:**

**Round 1 (decrease round):**
- Needle 1: Knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1
- Needle 2: Knit all stitches
- Needle 3: K1, ssk, knit to end

**Round 2:** Knit all stitches.

Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 until you have **36 (40, 44)** stitches total - back to your original stitch count.

You should have 18 (20, 22) stitches on the sole (Needles 1 and 3 combined) and 18 (20, 22) stitches on the instep (Needle 2).

---

### FOOT

**Continue in stocking stitch (knit every round)** until foot measures **5cm (2") less than desired total foot length**.

**To measure:** Try on your sock! The foot should reach to about 5cm (2") before the end of your toes.

**Standard foot lengths from heel to toe:**
- Small: 18-20cm (7-8")
- Medium: 23-25cm (9-10")
- Large: 28-30cm (11-12")

---

### TOE

**Round 1 (decrease round):**
- Needle 1: Knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1
- Needle 2: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1
- Needle 3: K1, ssk, knit to end

**Round 2:** Knit all stitches.

Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 until **16 (20, 20)** stitches remain.

Then work Round 1 (decrease round) **every round** (no plain rounds between) until **8 (8, 8)** stitches remain.

---

### FINISHING

**Knit the stitches from Needle 3 onto Needle 1.** You should now have 4 stitches on each of 2 needles.

**Cut yarn, leaving a 30cm (12") tail.**

**Graft toe closed using Kitchener stitch:**

1. Thread tail onto tapestry needle
2. Hold needles parallel with working yarn coming from the back needle on the right
3. *Setup:* Insert tapestry needle purlwise through first stitch on front needle (leave on needle), then knitwise through first stitch on back needle (leave on needle)
4. **Repeat these 4 steps:**
   - Insert tapestry needle **knitwise** through first stitch on front needle and slip off
   - Insert tapestry needle **purlwise** through next stitch on front needle (leave on)
   - Insert tapestry needle **purlwise** through first stitch on back needle and slip off
   - Insert tapestry needle **knitwise** through next stitch on back needle (leave on)
5. Continue until all stitches are grafted

**Weave in all ends.** Use the tail at the cast-on edge to close any small gap at the beginning of the round.

---

## MAKE THE SECOND SOCK!

Now return to the beginning and make a matching sock. This pattern makes ONE sock - you need to knit it twice for a pair!

---

## TIPS FOR SUCCESS

1. **Tension matters:** Check your tension before starting. Worsted weight socks need to be knit firmly to be comfortable and durable.

2. **Try on as you go:** The beauty of cuff-down socks is that you can try them on at any point. Check the fit before starting the heel and before starting the toe.

3. **Mark your place:** Use a small notebook or row counter to track which round you're on, especially during the heel turn.

4. **Pick up enough stitches:** When picking up stitches along the heel flap, pick up into the chain edge created by the slipped stitches. You want a snug fit without holes.

5. **The second sock:** Take notes on any modifications you make to the first sock (leg length, foot length) so the second one matches!

6. **Washing:** Hand wash your finished socks in cool water and lay flat to dry for longest wear.

---

## CUSTOMIZATION IDEAS

- **Stripes:** Add stripes in the leg and foot by changing colours every 4-6 rounds
- **Ribbed leg:** Continue the k2, p2 ribbing down the entire leg for extra stretch
- **Longer leg:** For boot socks, work 60-80 rounds in the leg section
- **House socks:** These worsted weight socks make excellent house socks or slipper socks

---

## ABBREVIATIONS REFERENCE

| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|--------------|---------|
| k | knit |
| p | purl |
| st(s) | stitch(es) |
| sl | slip purlwise |
| ssk | slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease) |
| k2tog | knit 2 together (right-leaning decrease) |
| p2tog | purl 2 together |
| RS | right side |
| WS | wrong side |
| pm | place marker |
| sm | slip marker |

---

**Congratulations on knitting your first pair of worsted weight socks! These make wonderful gifts and will keep your feet cosy all year round.**

*Pattern designed for beginner knitters learning sock construction.*