purlJam

<pattern>
# Cosy Worsted Weight Socks

A beginner-friendly pair of thick, warm socks worked from the cuff down. These cozy socks use worsted weight yarn for extra warmth—perfect for wearing around the house or tucked into boots. The traditional heel flap construction is easy to learn and creates a durable, comfortable fit.

**This pattern makes ONE PAIR (2 socks).**

## Sizes
- **Small** (Child/Narrow Adult): 7-7.5" foot circumference
- **Medium** (Average Women's): 8-8.5" foot circumference  
- **Large** (Average Men's/Wide Women's): 9-9.5" foot circumference

*Pattern is written for Medium with Small and Large in parentheses: Medium (Small, Large)*

## Materials
- **Yarn**: 300 (250, 350) yards worsted weight yarn
  - *Suggested*: Machine-washable wool or wool blend sock yarn in worsted weight for durability
- **Needles**: US 6 (4mm) or US 7 (4.5mm), or size needed to obtain gauge
  - Choose your preferred method:
    - Set of 4 or 5 double-pointed needles (DPNs), OR
    - Two 32" circular needles for magic loop, OR  
    - One 32-40" circular for two circulars method
- **Notions**: 
  - Stitch marker
  - Tapestry needle for grafting toe
  - Scissors

## Gauge
**20 stitches and 28 rows = 4" (10cm) in stockinette stitch in the round**

This equals **5 stitches per inch**.

**GAUGE IS CRITICAL FOR SOCKS!** Take time to check your gauge:
- Too loose: Socks will be sloppy, bag at ankle, and wear out quickly
- Too tight: Socks won't stretch over foot and will be uncomfortable
- Just right: Fabric should be firm but stretchy

*Work a 4" x 4" swatch in stockinette in the round. Adjust needle size if necessary.*

## Abbreviations
- **k**: knit
- **p**: purl
- **k2tog**: knit 2 stitches together (right-leaning decrease)
- **ssk**: slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
- **sl**: slip stitch purlwise with yarn in back unless otherwise noted
- **wyif**: with yarn in front
- **pm**: place marker
- **sm**: slip marker
- **RS**: right side
- **WS**: wrong side

## Pattern Notes
- **Needle Method**: This pattern can be worked on DPNs, magic loop, or two circulars. Instructions reference "Needle 1" and "Needle 2" where Needle 1 = instep stitches and Needle 2 = sole stitches.
- **Sock Construction**: These socks are worked from the cuff down with a traditional heel flap, which allows you to try on as you go.
- **Heel Reinforcement**: The slip stitch pattern on the heel flap creates extra durability.
- **Customizing Length**: You can easily adjust leg and foot length to your preference.

---

## PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS

### CUFF
**Cast on 48 (40, 56) stitches.** *[Verification: 48÷4=12, 40÷4=10, 56÷4=14 ✓ All divisible by 4]*

Divide stitches evenly on your needles:
- *DPNs*: 12-12-12-12 (10-10-10-10, 14-14-14-14) across 4 needles
- *Magic Loop or Two Circulars*: 24-24 (20-20, 28-28) on each needle

Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist. Place marker for beginning of round.

**Ribbing:**
Work in **K2, P2 rib** for 2" (5cm):
- *All rounds*: *K2, p2; repeat from * to end

The ribbing should be stretchy but snug.

### LEG
**Round 1:** Knit all stitches.

Repeat Round 1 until leg measures **6" (15cm)** from cast-on edge, or desired length to top of heel.

*Tip: For taller boot socks, work leg to 8-10" total.*

---

### HEEL FLAP
The heel flap is worked back and forth on half the stitches (the "sole" stitches). The other half (the "instep" stitches) will rest while you work the heel.

**Set-up:** 
- Knit first **24 (20, 28) stitches**. *[Verification: 48÷2=24, 40÷2=20, 56÷2=28 ✓]*
- **Turn work**. You will now work back and forth on these 24 (20, 28) heel stitches only.
- Place the remaining **24 (20, 28) instep stitches** on hold (leave on spare needle or other side of magic loop).

**Heel Flap (worked flat on 24/20/28 sts):**

**Row 1 (WS):** Sl 1 purlwise wyif, purl to end.

**Row 2 (RS):** *Sl 1 purlwise, k1; repeat from * to end.

Repeat Rows 1-2 until heel flap measures **2.25" (2", 2.5")** [approximately 32 (28, 36) rows total], ending with a WS row.

*The slipped stitches create a durable, cushioned heel and make picking up gusset stitches easier.*

---

### HEEL TURN
You will now shape the heel using short rows. This creates the "cup" of the heel.

**Row 1 (RS):** Sl 1, k**13 (11, 15)**, ssk, k1, turn. *[Verification: M=1+13+1+1=16, leaves 8 sts; S=1+11+1+1=14, leaves 6 sts; L=1+15+1+1=18, leaves 10 sts ✓]*

**Row 2 (WS):** Sl 1, p**5 (5, 5)**, p2tog, p1, turn.

**Row 3:** Sl 1, knit to 1 st before gap, ssk (1 st from each side of gap), k1, turn.

**Row 4:** Sl 1, purl to 1 st before gap, p2tog (1 st from each side of gap), p1, turn.

Repeat Rows 3-4 until all heel stitches have been worked.

You should have **14 (12, 16) heel stitches** remaining. *[Verification: M=24-10=14, S=20-8=12, L=28-12=16 ✓]*

---

### GUSSET
Now you'll pick up stitches along the heel flap edges and decrease back to the original stitch count.

**Set-up Round:**

**Needle 1 (heel/sole):**
- With RS facing, k**14 (12, 16)** heel stitches
- Pick up and knit **16 (14, 18) stitches** along left edge of heel flap (approximately 1 st for every 2 rows)
- pm for new beginning of round

**Needle 2 (instep):**
- Knit across **24 (20, 28)** held instep stitches

**Needle 1 continued (heel/sole):**
- Pick up and knit **16 (14, 18) stitches** along right edge of heel flap
- Knit first **7 (6, 8) heel stitches** (this brings you to marker)

**Total stitch count: 70 (60, 80) sts** *[Verification: M=14+16+24+16=70 ✓; S=12+14+20+14=60 ✓; L=16+18+28+18=80 ✓]*

Stitches should now be distributed:
- **Needle 1 (sole):** 23+16=**39 (32, 44) sts** *[M: 7+16+14+2(extra picked up for ease)... actually: 7+16+16=39... wait, let me recalculate]*

*[RECALCULATION: After pickup, before repositioning: 14 heel + 16 left + 16 right = 46 (40, 52). After knitting first 7(6,8) to marker: Needle 1 = 7+16 = 23 (20, 26) sts; remainder after marker = 7+16 = 23 (20, 26) sts. Total on sole = 23+23 = 46 (40, 52). Instep = 24 (20, 28). TOTAL = 70 (60, 80) ✓]*

Let me restructure this clearly:

**After pickup, stitch distribution:**
- **Needle 1 (sole):** 7 (6, 8) + 16 (14, 18) + 14 (12, 16) + 16 (14, 18) heel/gusset stitches, but knit the first 7 (6, 8) to reach marker = **46 (40, 52) sts on sole**
- **Needle 2 (instep):** **24 (20, 28) sts**
- **Total: 70 (60, 80) sts**

**Gusset Decrease Rounds:**

**Round 1 (decrease round):**
- **Needle 1:** K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1 *[decreases 2 sts]*
- **Needle 2:** Knit all sts

**Round 2:**
- Knit all stitches

Repeat Rounds 1-2 until you have **48 (40, 56) total stitches** remaining—**24 (20, 28) sts on each needle**. *[Verification: M=70-48=22 decrease rounds (11 repeats) ✓; S=60-40=20 (10 repeats) ✓; L=80-56=24 (12 repeats) ✓]*

---

### FOOT
**Round 1:** Knit all stitches.

Repeat Round 1 until foot measures **2" (5cm) less than desired total foot length** measured from back of heel.

*Standard foot lengths: Small 8-9", Medium 9-10", Large 10-11". Try on sock to check fit!*

---

### TOE
You'll now decrease to shape the toe.

**Round 1 (decrease round):**
- **Needle 1:** K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1 *[decreases 2 sts]*
- **Needle 2:** K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1 *[decreases 2 sts]*
*[Total: 4 sts decreased per round]*

**Round 2:**
- Knit all stitches

Repeat Rounds 1-2 until **24 (20, 28) total stitches** remain. *[Verification: M=(48-24)÷4=6 repeats ✓; S=(40-20)÷4=5 repeats ✓; L=(56-28)÷4=7 repeats ✓]*

Then work Round 1 (decrease round) **every round** (no plain rounds between) until **12 (8, 12) total stitches** remain. *[Verification: M=(24-12)÷4=3 rounds ✓; S=(20-8)÷4=3 rounds ✓; L=(28-12)÷4=4 rounds ✓]*

Final distribution: **6 (4, 6) sts on Needle 1, 6 (4, 6) sts on Needle 2.**

---

## FINISHING

### Closing the Toe
**Kitchener Stitch (Grafting):**

Arrange stitches so you have equal numbers on two parallel needles. Cut yarn leaving an 18" tail. Thread tail on tapestry needle.

1. Insert tapestry needle purlwise through first stitch on front needle, pull through, leave stitch on needle
2. Insert tapestry needle knitwise through first stitch on back needle, pull through, leave stitch on needle
3. *Insert tapestry needle knitwise through first stitch on front needle, pull through, slip stitch off needle
4. Insert tapestry needle purlwise through next stitch on front needle, pull through, leave stitch on needle
5. Insert tapestry needle purlwise through first stitch on back needle, pull through, slip stitch off needle
6. Insert tapestry needle knitwise through next stitch on back needle, pull through, leave stitch on needle*
7. Repeat from * until all stitches are grafted

*For detailed Kitchener stitch tutorials, search online video