purlJam

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# COZY RIBBED DROP-SHOULDER PULLOVER
### Size: Extra Large | Finished Chest: 52"

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## PATTERN INFORMATION

| | |
|---|---|
| **Pattern ID** | KN-PULL-007-XL |
| **Difficulty** | Beginner |
| **Construction** | Flat pieces, seamed |
| **Neckline** | Boatneck |
| **Fit** | Boxy / Relaxed |
| **Finished Chest** | 52" (132 cm) |
| **Finished Length** | 26" (66 cm) hem to shoulder |
| **Sleeve Length** | 18" (46 cm) shoulder to cuff |

> **Who is this for?** This pattern is written for a single size: Extra Large, designed to fit a 50" chest with approximately 2" of positive ease for a relaxed, comfortable fit. The boxy drop-shoulder construction and all-over K2, P2 rib make this a wonderfully forgiving and cozy sweater, ideal for a beginner looking to tackle their first full garment.

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## FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

```
+------------------------------------------+
|  Finished chest (at underarm):  52" / 132 cm  |
|  Body width (each piece):       26" / 66 cm   |
|  Body length (hem to shoulder): 26" / 66 cm   |
|  Armhole depth:                 10" / 25 cm   |
|  Sleeve width at top:           20" / 51 cm   |
|  Sleeve width at cuff:           9.5" / 24 cm  |
|  Sleeve length (shoulder–cuff): 18" / 46 cm   |
|  Neck opening width:            12" / 30 cm   |
+------------------------------------------+
```

---

## MATERIALS

- **Yarn:** DK weight (CYCA #3 / Light)
  Approximately **1,400–1,600 yards (1,280–1,465 m)** total
  *Suggested: any smooth, non-splitty DK. A wool/acrylic blend works especially well for a ribbed sweater as it has natural elasticity.*

- **Needles:**
  - US 6 / 4 mm — straight or circular, 24" or longer (main fabric)
  - US 5 / 3.75 mm — for ribbed hems and cuffs *(optional: using a needle one size down for the rib creates a neater, slightly tighter edge)*

- **Notions:**
  - Tapestry / yarn needle for seaming
  - Stitch markers
  - Measuring tape
  - 4 locking stitch markers or safety pins (for marking shoulder positions)
  - Scissors

---

## GAUGE

**22 stitches and 30 rows = 4" (10 cm) in K2, P2 Rib, slightly relaxed (not stretched), on US 6 / 4 mm needles after blocking.**

> ⚠️ **GAUGE IS CRITICAL.** Please swatch before beginning. A difference of even 1 stitch per 4" will change the finished chest measurement by over an inch. Wash and block your swatch the same way you intend to care for the finished sweater, then measure.
>
> - *Too many stitches per 4"?* Go up a needle size.
> - *Too few stitches per 4"?* Go down a needle size.

---

## ABBREVIATIONS

| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| CO | Cast on |
| BO | Bind off |
| k | Knit |
| p | Purl |
| k2tog | Knit 2 stitches together (right-leaning decrease) |
| ssk | Slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease) |
| RS | Right side |
| WS | Wrong side |
| rep | Repeat |
| pm | Place marker |
| sm | Slip marker |
| st(s) | Stitch(es) |
| St st | Stockinette stitch |
| rem | Remaining |

---

## STITCH GUIDE

### K2, P2 Rib (worked flat over a multiple of 4 stitches)
- **Row 1 (RS):** *K2, p2; rep from * to end.
- **Row 2 (WS):** *K2, p2; rep from * to end.

> **Note on reading the rib on WS rows:** On the wrong side, when you look at the needle, you will knit the stitches that appear as purl bumps (they were purled on the RS) and purl the stitches that appear as "V" knit stitches (they were knitted on the RS). This keeps the columns of knits and purls continuous. Working Row 2 as written above (*k2, p2*) achieves this automatically because of the 2-stitch repeat symmetry — both rows read the same way.

---

## CONSTRUCTION OVERVIEW

This sweater is worked in **four separate flat pieces**: Back, Front, and two Sleeves. The pieces are then seamed together.

**Order of assembly:**
1. Knit Back
2. Knit Front (identical to Back)
3. Join right and left shoulders
4. Pick up stitches along armhole edges and knit Sleeves downward (or knit separately and seam)
5. Seam side seams and sleeve seams
6. Weave in ends and block

---

## BACK

### Cast On
Using US 5 / 3.75 mm needles, CO **144 stitches**.

> **Math check:** 144 sts ÷ 22 sts per 4" × 4 = 26.18" ≈ **26"** per piece. Two pieces = 52" finished chest. ✅
> 144 is divisible by 4, so K2, P2 rib works out perfectly. ✅

### Hem Rib (Smaller Needles)
Work in K2, P2 Rib for **2.5" (6.5 cm)**, ending with a WS row.

> *The smaller needle creates a firmer, neater hem edge that won't flare.*

### Body
Switch to US 6 / 4 mm needles. Continue in K2, P2 Rib until piece measures **26" (66 cm)** from cast-on edge, ending with a WS row.

> **No shaping is worked on the body. The sides are completely straight.** This is what gives the drop-shoulder its characteristic boxy look.

### Shoulder Bind Off
You will now divide the top edge into three sections:
- **Left shoulder:** 39 stitches
- **Neck:** 66 stitches (center)
- **Right shoulder:** 39 stitches

> **Math check:** 39 + 66 + 39 = 144 ✅
> Neck opening: 66 sts ÷ 22 sts per 4" × 4 = **12"** ✅
> Each shoulder: 39 sts ÷ 22 sts per 4" × 4 = **7.09" ≈ 7"** each side ✅

**Option A — Simple Bind Off (Easiest for beginners):**
BO all 144 stitches loosely in rib pattern. Mark the center 66 stitches with locking markers or a safety pin so you can identify them during shoulder seaming.

**Option B — Separate Bind Offs (creates cleaner shoulders):**
- BO first 39 sts, cut yarn.
- Slip center 66 sts to a stitch holder or spare needle (these will stay open for the boatneck).
- Rejoin yarn to remaining 39 sts, BO to end.

Set aside. Make a note of which is the RS.

---

## FRONT

The front is **identical to the Back.**

Using US 5 / 3.75 mm needles, CO **144 stitches**.

Work hem rib and body exactly as for the Back:
- Hem rib (US 5 needle): 2.5" in K2, P2 Rib
- Body (US 6 needle): work straight to **26" (66 cm)** total length

Bind off / divide shoulders exactly as for the Back.

> **Why is the front identical?** The boatneck is the secret weapon of the drop-shoulder sweater — because there is no neck shaping, the front and back are truly mirror images. This is one of the reasons this style is ideal for beginners.

---

## JOINING THE SHOULDERS

You will join the **right shoulder** and the **left shoulder** separately, leaving the center 66 stitches on both front and back as the open neck.

**Step 1:** Lay Front and Back with right sides facing each other.

**Step 2:** Identify the right shoulder edges (39 sts each) on front and back.

**Seaming method — choose one:**

### Option A: 3-Needle Bind Off (Recommended — tidy, no sewing)
Place Front right shoulder stitches on one needle (39 sts) and Back right shoulder stitches on a second needle (39 sts), right sides facing each other.

Using a third needle and working yarn:
1. Insert right needle into first stitch on front needle knitwise, then into first stitch on back needle knitwise. Knit both together — 1 stitch on right needle.
2. Repeat for next stitch on each needle — 2 stitches on right needle.
3. Pass first stitch over second stitch (bind off 1).
4. Continue across all 39 stitches.
5. Fasten off last stitch.

Repeat for left shoulder (remaining 39 sts on front and back).

### Option B: Mattress Stitch Seam
With RS facing up, use the mattress stitch to seam the 39 shoulder stitches on each side. This creates an invisible seam on the right side.

After joining both shoulders, the center **66 stitches** (front and back) remain open — this is your boatneck. No further finishing is needed on the neckline (you may work a few rows of rib around the neck opening if desired — see Finishing section for optional neck trim).

---

## SLEEVES (Make 2)

The sleeves are worked by picking up stitches along the vertical armhole edge of the joined body, then working downward to the cuff. Alternatively, you may knit them separately and seam — instructions for both are given.

### Method A: Pick Up and Knit Down (Recommended)

**Marking the armhole:**
Lay the joined body flat. Along one side edge, measure and mark **10" (25 cm)** down from the shoulder seam with a locking marker on both front and back edges. This 10" section is your armhole opening.

> **Armhole depth math check:** 10" × 30 rows per 4" ÷ 4 = 75 rows on each piece. Pickup rate: approximately 3 stitches for every 4 rows. 75 × (3/4) = 56.25 ≈ **56 stitches per side** (front + back) = **112 stitches total.** ✅
> 112 ÷ 22 × 4 = **20.36" ≈ 20"** sleeve width at top. ✅
> 112 is divisible by 4. ✅

**Picking up stitches:**
With RS facing and using US 6 / 4 mm needles, beginning at the marker (10" below shoulder seam) on the back edge:
- Pick up and knit **56 stitches** evenly along the back armhole edge to the shoulder seam.
- Pick up and knit **56 stitches** evenly along the front armhole edge from the shoulder seam down to the marker.
- **Total: 112 stitches on needle.** ✅

> **Tip for even pickup:** Place a marker every 1" along the armhole edge before picking up. You should pick up approximately 5–6 stitches per inch (for DK gauge at 30 rows/4" this is about 7–8 rows per inch, pickup at 3:4 ratio = ~5.25 sts/inch). Adjust slightly at beginning and end of each inch section if needed.

**Set up rib:**
Next Row (WS): *K2, p2; rep from * to end.

This sets up the K2, P2 rib pattern on the sleeve. Continue in rib pattern as established.

### Sleeve Shaping (Decrease Section)

You will taper the sleeve from **112 stitches** at the top to **52 stitches** at the cuff over approximately **17" (43 cm)** of sleeve length, leaving the final 1" for the cuff rib.

> **Decrease math:**
> 112 sts − 52 sts = 60 sts to decrease
> 60 sts ÷ 2 = **30 decrease rows** (each row removes 2 sts — 1 each end)
> Sleeve working length = 17" = 17 × 30 rows per 4" ÷ 4 = 127.5 rows ≈ **128 rows**
> 128 rows ÷ 30 decrease rows = decrease every **4th row** (4 × 30 = 120 rows), then work even for remaining 8 rows. ✅

**Decrease Row (RS):** K1, ssk, work in rib to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. *(2 stitches decreased)*

**Work as follows:**
- Work Decrease Row on RS every 4th row **30 times.**
- After all 30 decrease rows are complete: **52 stitches remain.** ✅
  - 112 − (30 × 2) = 112 − 60 = **52 sts** ✅
- Work even in rib (no more decreases) for remaining rows until sleeve measures **17" (43 cm)** from the pickup row.

> **Keeping rib correct after decreases:** After each decrease row, take a moment to check that your knit and purl columns are still lining up. Because you are decreasing 1 stitch at each end, the rib may shift by 1 stitch at the edges over time. Simply adjust so the rib looks visually correct — a small jog at the edges will be hidden in the seam.

### Cuff
Switch to US 5 / 3.75 mm needles.
Work in K2, P2 Rib for **1" (2.5 cm)**.
BO all 52 stitches loosely in rib pattern.

> **Total sleeve length:** 17" body + 1" cuff = **18"** ✅
> **Cuff width:** 52 sts ÷ 22 × 4 = **9.45" ≈ 9.5"** ✅

---

### Method B: Sleeves Worked Separately and Seamed

If you prefer to knit the sleeves separately before assembling:

**Cast On:**
Using US 5 / 3.75 mm needles, CO **52 stitches.**
Work K2, P2 Rib for **1" (2.5 cm)** for cuff.

Switch to US 6 / 4 mm needles.

**Increase Section:**
You will increase from 52 stitches to 112 stitches over 17" of sleeve length.

> **Increase math:** 112 − 52 = 60 sts to increase = 30 increase rows, every 4th row for 120 rows, then work even to 17". ✅

**Increase Row (RS):** K1, M1L (or kfb), work in rib to last 1 st, M1R (or kfb), k1. *(2 stitches increased)*

Work Increase Row every 4th row **30 times.** = **112 stitches.**

> **M1L (Make 1 Left):** Insert left needle from front to back under the bar between stitches; knit through the back loop.
> **M1R (Make 1 Right):** Insert left needle from back to front under the bar between stitches; knit through the front loop.

Work even until sleeve measures **17" (43 cm)** from cast-on (after cuff).

BO all 112 stitches **loosely** in rib pattern. This bound-off edge will be seamed into the armhole.

**To assemble:** Measure and mark 10" down from each shoulder seam on front and back edges. With RS facing, pin sleeve into armhole opening, matching center of sleeve top to shoulder seam. Seam using mattress stitch.

---

## FINISHING

### Side Seams
With RS facing, use mattress stitch to seam the side seams of the Front and Back together, working from the hem upward to the armhole marker. Leave the 10" armhole section open (or seam around the sleeve if using Method B).

### Sleeve Seams (if using Method B)
Fold each sleeve lengthwise with RS together. Seam from cuff to sleeve top using mattress stitch.

### Optional Boatneck Trim
The open boatneck is finished as-is for a clean, minimal look. If you prefer a more polished neckline:

With RS facing and US 5 / 3.75 mm needles, pick up and knit approximately **144 stitches** evenly around the entire neck opening (pick up from both front and back open edges). Join to work in the round, or work flat.
Work K2, P2 Rib for 4–6 rows. BO loosely in rib.

### Weave In Ends
Using a tapestry needle, weave in all yarn ends securely. Work ends in along the rib columns (weaving through the backs of purl stitches) for the most invisible finish.

### Blocking
Wet blocking is recommended:
1. Soak the finished sweater in cool water with a small amount of wool wash for 20 minutes.
2. Gently squeeze out excess water (do not wring).
3. Roll in a towel to remove more water.
4. Lay flat on a blocking mat or clean towels, gently patting to the measurements in the schematic.
5. Leave to dry completely (24–48 hours) before wearing.

> Blocking evens out the rib, opens up the fabric slightly, and gives the sweater a professional, polished appearance.

---

## SCHEMATIC

```
         ←——— 26" ———→
    ┌───────────────────────┐  ─┐
    │                       │   │
    │                       │   │
    │                       │   │  26"
    │        BACK           │   │  (body)
    │       (Front          │   │
    │     is identical)     │   │
    │                       │   │
    └───────────────────────┘  ─┘
    ↑ 2.5" K2P2 rib hem

    Shoulder: 7" | Neck: 12" | Shoulder: 7"

    ←——— 20" (112 sts) ———→
    ┌───────────────────────┐  ─┐
     \                     /    │
      \                   /     │  17"
       \     SLEEVE       /     │  (decrease
        \               /       │   section)
         \             /        │
          └───────────┘        ─┘
          ← 9.5" (52 sts) →
          ↑ 1" cuff rib

    Drop Shoulder: seam sits 10" below shoulder line.
```

---

## QUICK REFERENCE — KEY NUMBERS

| Piece | Cast On | Final Width | Length |
|---|---|---|---|
| Back | 144 sts | 26" | 26" |
| Front | 144 sts | 26" | 26" |
| Sleeve (top) | 112 sts pickup | 20" | — |
| Sleeve (cuff) | 52 sts | 9.5" | 18" total |
| Neck opening | — | 12" (66 sts) | — |
| Each shoulder | — | ~7" (39 sts) | — |

---

## YARN QUANTITY ESTIMATE

| Piece | Approx. Yardage |
|---|---|
| Back | ~380 yards |
| Front | ~380 yards |
| 2 Sleeves | ~540 yards total |
| Finishing allowance | ~50 yards |
| **TOTAL** | **~1,350–1,400 yards** |

> **Recommended purchase:** Buy **1,500–1,600 yards** to allow for swatching and any adjustments in length.

---

## CARE INSTRUCTIONS

Always follow the care label on your specific yarn. In general for DK weight sweaters:
- Hand wash or machine wash on gentle/wool cycle in cool water
- Lay flat to dry — never hang a wet knitted sweater
- Store folded, not hung

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*Pattern KN-PULL-007-XL | Drop Shoulder Ribbed Pullover | Extra Large*
*© Your Pattern Studio — for personal use only*