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# Cozy Worsted House Socks (Toe-Up)

**Difficulty Level:** Intermediate
**Terminology:** UK Crochet Terms (dc = US sc, htr = US hdc, tr = US dc)
**Yarn Weight:** Worsted / Aran (Size 4)

## Description
This is an intermediate crochet sock pattern worked from the toe up. Because this uses Worsted (Aran) weight yarn, these socks work up quickly and are designed as "house socks," "slippers," or "boot socks." They create a dense, warm fabric perfect for cold floors.

## Materials
*   **Yarn:** Approx 180-200 metres of Worsted/Aran weight yarn. (Wool blends with nylon are best for durability).
*   **Hook:** 4.5 mm (UK 7)
    *   *Technical Note: While worsted yarn often calls for 5.0mm, we use 4.5mm here for a denser fabric that holds its shape.*
*   **Notions:** 2 Stitch markers (essential for the heel), Yarn needle, Scissors.

## Tension (Gauge)
16 stitches and 18 rows = 10 cm x 10 cm in Double Crochet (dc).
*Please check tension. If you have fewer stitches per 10cm, your socks will be too big.*

## Sizing (Foot Circumference)
*   **Small:** 20 cm circumference (approx UK shoe 3-5) - [32 sts]
*   **Medium:** 23 cm circumference (approx UK shoe 6-8) - [36 sts]
*   **Large:** 25 cm circumference (approx UK shoe 9-11) - [40 sts]

## Abbreviations (UK Terms)
*   **ch:** chain
*   **dc:** double crochet (US single crochet)
*   **tr:** treble crochet (US double crochet)
*   **FPtr:** Front Post treble crochet
*   **BPtr:** Back Post treble crochet
*   **st(s):** stitch(es)
*   **ss:** slip stitch
*   **dc2tog:** double crochet 2 together (decrease)
*   **RS/WS:** Right Side / Wrong Side

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## Instructions

### 1. TOE
Worked in a continuous spiral. Place a marker in the first stitch of the round and move it up as you work.

*   **Rnd 1:** Start with a Magic Ring. Work 8 dc into ring. Pull tight. [8 sts]
*   **Rnd 2:** 2 dc in each st around. [8 + 8 = 16 sts]
*   **Rnd 3:** (1 dc in next st, 2 dc in next st) repeat 8 times. [16 + 8 = 24 sts]
*   **Rnd 4:** (1 dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st) repeat 8 times. [24 + 8 = 32 sts]

*Stop here for **Small** (32 sts).*

*   **Rnd 5 (Medium Only):** (1 dc in next 7 sts, 2 dc in next st) repeat 4 times. [32 + 4 = 36 sts]
*   **Rnd 6 (Large Only):** Work Rnd 5, then: (1 dc in next 8 sts, 2 dc in next st) repeat 4 times. [36 + 4 = 40 sts]

**Final Stitch Counts:** S: 32 / M: 36 / L: 40

### 2. FOOT
*   **Rnds:** Work 1 dc in every st around (spiral).
*   Continue working rounds of dc until the piece measures approximately **5 cm (2 inches) less** than the total length of your foot.
*   *Fit Check:* Try the sock on. It should cover your foot up to the front of your ankle bone.

### 3. HEEL (Short Row Method)
The heel is worked in rows back and forth over half the stitches. The other half (Instep) remain unworked.

**Setup:**
*   Identify your heel stitches: **S:** 16 sts / **M:** 18 sts / **L:** 20 sts.
*   Flatten sock to identify the heel side.

**Part A: Narrowing (The Wedge)**
*   **Row 1 (RS):** Dc across heel sts. Turn. (Leave instep unworked).
*   **Row 2 (WS):** Ch 1, dc across heel sts. Turn.
*   **Row 3:** Ch 1, dc across to the **last stitch**. Do not work the last stitch. Turn. [1 st decreased from working row]
*   **Row 4:** Ch 1, skip first unworked st from row below, dc across to the **last stitch** of previous row. Do not work that last stitch. Turn.
*   **Repeat:** Repeat Rows 3-4, leaving one more stitch unworked at each end every row, until you have the centre stitches remaining:
    *   *Centre Sts Remaining:* **S:** 6 sts / **M:** 6 sts / **L:** 8 sts.

**Part B: Widening (Closing the Wedge)**
*   **Row 1 (RS):** Ch 1, dc across the centre sts. At the end, dc into the first unworked stitch on this side. **Ss into the *next* unworked stitch** (this closes the gap). Turn.
*   **Row 2 (WS):** Skip the ss just made. Dc across the worked stitches. Dc into the first unworked stitch on this side. **Ss into the *next* unworked stitch.** Turn.
*   **Repeat:** Continue working back and forth, consuming one "unworked" stitch at the end of every row until all heel stitches are active again.
*   Do not turn after the final RS row. Resume working in the round.

### 4. LEG
*   **Transition Round:** Dc across heel stitches. When you reach the corner between heel and instep, if there is a large gap, pick up a loop in the gap and dc2tog with the first instep stitch. Dc across instep. Repeat gap closure on the other side.
    *   *Verify Count:* Ensure you are back to **32/36/40 sts**.
*   **Rnds:** Work dc in each st around in a spiral.
*   **Height:** Work even until leg measures approx 10-15 cm (4-6 inches).

### 5. CUFF
We switch to Treble Crochet (US Double) to create a ribbed texture.
*   **Setup Rnd:** Ch 2 (counts as tr), work 1 tr in each st around. Join with ss to top of ch-2.
*   **Ribbing Rnd:** Ch 2. *Front Post Treble (FPtr) around next st, Back Post Treble (BPtr) around next st.* Repeat * to * around. Join with ss.
*   **Repeat:** Work Ribbing Rnd 2-3 more times for a 3-4cm cuff.
*   **Fasten off.**

### 6. FINISHING
*   Cut yarn and weave in ends.
*   **Block:** Lightly steam block or wash and lay flat. This is crucial for worsted crochet to soften the fabric.
*   Make the second sock!

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**Modifications:**
*   **Slipper Socks:** If you want them strictly for bed/slippers, work the Leg section in Htr (US hdc) for a softer, looser feel.
*   **Stripes:** Fasten off and join new colour at the back of the leg every 2 rounds.