purlJam

# DROP-SHOULDER MACHINE PULLOVER

## MACHINE_SETUP
**Machine Type:** Standard gauge knitting machine with ribber attachment  
**Bed Configuration:** Main bed and ribber for cast-on and neckband; main bed only for body panels  
**Cast-on Method:** Closed edge cast-on using waste yarn and ravel cord  
**Tension Dial Settings:** 
- Main yarn: T5-6 on main bed, T4-5 on ribber
- Waste yarn: T7-8
**Carriage Settings:** KC II (knit carriage) with both part buttons released  
**Tools Required:** Cast-on comb, weights, transfer tools, latch tool, ravel cord, contrasting waste yarn

**Swatch Instructions:**
Cast on 40 needles using closed edge method. Knit 40 rows at T6. Steam lightly and measure gauge. Adjust tension dial ±1 if needed to achieve gauge.

## MATERIALS
- **Yarn:** 900 (1000, 1100, 1200, 1300) grams fingering weight yarn
- **Notions:** Stitch markers, tapestry needle, blocking mats
- **Machine:** Standard gauge knitting machine with ribber capability
- **Sample shown in:** Size Medium using 1050g fingering weight wool

## GAUGE_AND_TENSION
**Stitch Gauge:** 7 stitches = 2.5cm (1")  
**Row Gauge:** 10 rows = 2.5cm (1")  
**Tension Setting:** T6 on main bed, T5 on ribber  
**Measuring:** Steam swatch lightly before measuring. Lay flat without stretching. Measure over 10cm (4") square minimum for accuracy.

## SCHEMATIC_AND_SIZES

**Sizes:** S (M, L, XL, 2XL)  
**Finished Chest:** 102 (112, 122, 132, 142) cm / 40 (44, 48, 52, 56)"  
**Finished Length:** 63 (65, 67, 69, 71) cm / 24.75 (25.5, 26.25, 27, 28)"  
**Sleeve Length:** 47 (48, 49, 50, 51) cm / 18.5 (19, 19.25, 19.75, 20)"  

**Key Measurements:**
- Back width: 51 (56, 61, 66, 71) cm / 20 (22, 24, 26, 28)"
- Shoulder width: 15 (16, 17, 18, 19) cm / 6 (6.25, 6.75, 7, 7.5)"
- Neck width: 21 (22, 23, 24, 25) cm / 8.25 (8.75, 9, 9.5, 9.75)"

## BACK_PANEL

**Cast On:** 144 (158, 172, 186, 200) stitches using closed edge method with waste yarn and ravel cord.

**Setup:** Position needles from -72 to +71 (-79 to +78, -86 to +85, -93 to +92, -100 to +99). Attach cast-on comb and weights.

**Ribbing (RC000-020):**
- Set up ribber with every needle configuration
- COL: Knit 20 rows at T5 for 1x1 ribbing
- RC020: Remove ribber, continue on main bed only

**Body (RC021-178/182/186/190/194):**
- Increase tension to T6
- COL: Knit straight with no shaping
- RC021-178 (182, 186, 190, 194): Knit body length
- Hang additional weights every 50 rows as needed

**Shoulder Shaping (RC179/183/187/191/195-188/194/200/206/212):**
- Place shoulder needles in hold position
- Size S: Hold needles -72 to -58 and +57 to +71 (30 sts each shoulder)
- Size M: Hold needles -79 to -63 and +62 to +78 (34 sts each shoulder)  
- Size L: Hold needles -86 to -68 and +67 to +85 (38 sts each shoulder)
- Size XL: Hold needles -93 to -73 and +72 to +92 (42 sts each shoulder)
- Size 2XL: Hold needles -100 to -78 and +77 to +99 (46 sts each shoulder)
- COL: Hold 6 needles at each side
- COR: Hold 6 needles at each side
- Repeat for 5 rows each side
- Leave center 84 (90, 96, 102, 108) stitches on waste yarn for neck

**RC Final:** Remove from machine on waste yarn

## FRONT_PANEL

Work exactly as back panel through RC158 (162, 166, 170, 174).

**Neck Shaping (RC159/163/167/171/175):**
- Begin front neck shaping 20 rows before shoulders
- Place center 60 (66, 72, 78, 84) needles in hold
- Work each side separately

**Left Side:**
- COL: Hold center needles, continue on left side only
- COR: Decrease 1 stitch at neck edge by holding 1 needle
- Repeat decrease every 2 rows for 10 rows
- Continue straight to match back shoulder length

**Right Side:**
- Return to center, work right side to match left
- Mirror all decreases

**Shoulder Shaping:**
Work shoulder shaping to match back panel exactly.

## SLEEVES (Make 2)

**Cast On:** 56 (58, 60, 62, 64) stitches
**Setup:** Position needles from -28 to +27 (-29 to +28, -30 to +29, -31 to +30, -32 to +31)

**Cuff Ribbing (RC000-020):**
- Set up ribber for 1x1 ribbing
- Knit 20 rows at T5
- Remove ribber, continue on main bed at T6

**Sleeve Increases (RC021-134/138/142/146/150):**
- Begin with 56 (58, 60, 62, 64) stitches
- Increase 1 stitch each side every 3rd row
- Bring out needles gradually to accommodate increases
- Final stitch count: 112 (116, 120, 124, 128) stitches
- RC021: Begin increases by bringing needle into work position
- COL: Bring out 1 needle on left
- COR: Bring out 1 needle on right  
- Continue pattern every 3 rows

**Increase Schedule:**
- Every 3 rows: Bring 1 needle into work each side
- Total increases: 28 (29, 30, 31, 32) stitches each side
- Monitor weight distribution, add weights as sleeve widens

**Completion (RC134/138/142/146/150):**
Remove on waste yarn when sleeve measures 47 (48, 49, 50, 51) cm.

## NECKBAND

**Setup:** Using latch tool, rehang all neck stitches from front and back panels
**Total Stitches:** 144 (156, 168, 180, 192) stitches around neckline

**Pickup Pattern:**
- Back neck: 84 (90, 96, 102, 108) stitches from waste yarn
- Front neck: 60 (66, 72, 78, 84) stitches from waste yarn plus pick up along shaped edges

**Ribbing:**
- Set up ribber for 1x1 rib configuration
- Distribute stitches evenly between main bed and ribber
- RC000-015: Knit 15 rows at T4/T5
- Bind off using latch tool method or sewn bind-off

**Bind-off:** Use latch tool to create stretchy bind-off, or work sewn bind-off for professional finish.

## FINISHING

**Steaming:**
1. Steam all pieces lightly using press cloth
2. Do not drag iron across knitting
3. Allow pieces to dry flat completely

**Assembly Order:**
1. **Shoulder Seams:** Join shoulders using mattress stitch or backstitch
2. **Neckband Attachment:** Complete neckband before side seams
3. **Side Seams:** Sew from bottom ribbing to armhole, matching row counts
4. **Sleeve Attachment:** Center sleeve at shoulder seam, pin in place
5. **Sleeve Seams:** Sew sleeve seams from cuff to underarm

**Professional Tips:**
- Use blocking wires on edges if available
- Steam seams lightly after sewing
- Weave in all ends securely
- Block to finished measurements using sweater board if available

**Final Blocking:**
Lay flat to measurements, pin if necessary, steam lightly and allow to dry. Check all measurements against schematic.

## ABBREVIATIONS

**COL** - Carriage on Left  
**COR** - Carriage on Right  
**RC** - Row Counter  
**T** - Tension dial setting  
**KC** - Knit Carriage  
**WY** - Waste Yarn  
**MY** - Main Yarn  
**HP** - Hold Position  
**WP** - Work Position  
**cm** - centimeters  
**sts** - stitches  
**incr** - increase  
**decr** - decrease

**Special Techniques:**
- **Closed Edge Cast-on:** Using waste yarn and ravel cord for professional edge
- **Hold Position:** Needles held out of work for shaping
- **Latch Tool Bind-off:** Using latch tool to remove stitches with bound edge
- **Rehang:** Placing stitches from waste yarn back onto needles