Drop-Shoulder Rollneck Pullover

Chunky yarn · Very generous fit · Long sleeves · Intermediate

A boxy dropped-shoulder pullover with a classic stockinette rollneck. Front and back are straight rectangles; the shoulder seam sits down the upper arm. Sleeves are picked up from the vertical armhole and worked down. The collar is knit in stockinette so the top edge rolls naturally.

Difficulty

Intermediate. Skills: stockinette flat and in the round, k2, p2 rib, neck shaping, picking up stitches, 3-needle bind-off, mattress stitch.

Sizes

S (M, L, XL, 2XL)

To fit bust 34–36 (38–40, 42–44, 46–48, 50–52)" [86–91 (96–102, 107–112, 117–122, 127–132) cm]

Shown in size M. Choose a size by finished bust, not ready-to-wear size. Intended ease is about 10–14" [25–35 cm] of positive ease.

Finished Measurements

• Bust circumference: 48 (50½, 56, 58¾, 64)" [122 (128.5, 142, 149, 162.5) cm]
• Length, shoulder to hem: 23 (24, 24½, 25½, 26½)" [58.5 (61, 62, 65, 67.5) cm]
• Back/Front width: 24 (25¼, 28, 29¼, 32)" [61 (64, 71, 74.5, 81.5) cm]
• Armhole depth: 9½ (10, 10½, 11, 11½)" [24 (25.5, 26.5, 28, 29) cm]
• Shoulder width (each): 8 (8¼, 9¼, 9¾, 10¾)" [20.5 (21, 23.5, 25, 27.5) cm]
• Neck width: 8 (8¾, 9¼, 10, 10¾)" [20.5 (22, 23.5, 25.5, 27.5) cm]
• Upper sleeve circumference: 18¾ (20, 21¼, 22¾, 24)" [47.5 (51, 54, 58, 61) cm]
• Sleeve length, pickup to cuff edge: 16½ (17, 17, 17½, 17½)" [42 (43, 43, 44.5, 44.5) cm]
• Cuff circumference (unstretched): 10¾ (10¾, 12, 12, 13¼)" [27.5 (27.5, 30.5, 30.5, 33.5) cm]
• Rollneck height (unrolled): 5" [12.5 cm]

Yarn

Bulky weight (CYC 5), approximately 109–137 yards [100–125 m] per 100 g.

900 (1000, 1150, 1300, 1450) yards [825 (915, 1050, 1190, 1325) m]

A wool or wool-blend bulky that meets gauge will give the clearest stitch and a springy roll on the collar. Super-bulky yarns will not meet this gauge.

Needles

• US 11 / 8 mm, 32" [80 cm] circular needle for the body (worked flat) and for magic-loop sleeves/collar, or 8 mm DPNs for sleeves and collar
• US 10.5 / 6.5 mm, 32" [80 cm] circular needle (and DPNs if preferred) for hem and cuff ribbing

If you only have 8 mm, you may work the ribbing on 8 mm; the hem and cuffs will be slightly looser.

Adjust needle size if needed to obtain gauge.

Notions

• Stitch markers
• Stitch holders or waste yarn
• Spare US 11 / 8 mm needle for 3-needle bind-off
• Tapestry needle
• Tape measure

Gauge

12 stitches and 16 rows = 4" (10 cm) in stockinette stitch on US 11 / 8 mm needles, blocked.

Swatch at least 6 × 6" [15 × 15 cm] and measure the inner 4" [10 cm]. Row gauge affects armhole depth and sleeve length; match both if you can, and otherwise work body and sleeves to the stated measurements.

Abbreviations (US)

BO bind off
BOR beginning of round
CO cast on
dec decrease
DPNs double-pointed needles
k knit
k2tog knit 2 together (right-leaning decrease)
p purl
pm place marker
rem remain(ing)
rep repeat
rnd(s) round(s)
RS right side
ssk slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
st(s) stitch(es)
St st stockinette stitch (k RS rows, p WS rows; k every rnd in the round)
WS wrong side

Notes

1. The pullover is worked in pieces. Back and Front are rectangles with no armhole indentation. The dropped shoulder is created by the extra body width.
2. The rollneck requires front neck shaping (this is not a boatneck). The collar is stockinette, worked in the round; the bind-off edge rolls to the outside. Do not block the roll out.
3. When one set of figures is given, it applies to all sizes.
4. Numbers are listed as S (M, L, XL, 2XL). Size M is the second figure.
5. Sleeve length is easy to customize: try on before the cuff and add or subtract even rounds.

3-Needle Bind-Off

Hold the two pieces with RS together and needle tips pointing the same way. With a third needle, k2tog (1 st from each needle), *k2tog (1 st from each needle), pass first st over second; rep from * until all sts are bound off. Fasten off.

BACK

With US 10.5 / 6.5 mm needle, CO 72 (76, 84, 88, 96) sts.

Rib row: *K2, p2; rep from * to end.

Rep Rib row until hem measures 3" [7.5 cm], ending after a WS row.

Change to US 11 / 8 mm needle.

Next row (RS): Knit.

Next row (WS): Purl.

Continue in St st until piece measures 23 (24, 24½, 25½, 26½)" [58.5 (61, 62, 65, 67.5) cm] from CO, ending after a WS row.

Divide shoulders and back neck (RS): K 24 (25, 28, 29, 32) and place these sts on a holder (right shoulder); BO the center 24 (26, 28, 30, 32) sts; k rem 24 (25, 28, 29, 32) and place these sts on a holder (left shoulder).

Check: 24 + 24 + 24 = 72 ✓; 25 + 26 + 25 = 76 ✓; 28 + 28 + 28 = 84 ✓; 29 + 30 + 29 = 88 ✓; 32 + 32 + 32 = 96 ✓.

FRONT

Work as for Back until piece measures 20 (21, 21, 22, 22½)" [51 (53.5, 53.5, 56, 57) cm] from CO, ending after a WS row.

Neck shaping starts 3 (3, 3½, 3½, 4)" [7.5 (7.5, 9, 9, 10) cm] before the shoulder.

Shape front neck

Right front (wearer’s right)

Divide row (RS): K 27 (28, 32, 33, 37), k2tog, k1, turn. Place rem sts on a holder.

Sts on needle: 29 (30, 34, 35, 39) (1 neck decrease already worked → 30 − 1 = 29 for S ✓).

Next row (WS): Purl.

Dec row (RS): Knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.

Rep the last 2 rows 5 (5, 6, 6, 7) more times. Total neck decreases on this side: 6 (6, 7, 7, 8). Sts rem: 24 (25, 28, 29, 32) (30 − 6 = 24 ✓; 31 − 6 = 25 ✓; 35 − 7 = 28 ✓; 36 − 7 = 29 ✓; 40 − 8 = 32 ✓).

Work even in St st, if needed, until Front matches Back length, ending after a WS row. Place 24 (25, 28, 29, 32) sts on a holder.

Left front

Return to held sts. With RS facing, slip the first 12 (14, 14, 16, 16) sts (center front neck) onto a holder, and join yarn at the neck edge of the rem 30 (31, 35, 36, 40) sts.

Check divide: 30 + 12 + 30 = 72 ✓; 31 + 14 + 31 = 76 ✓; 35 + 14 + 35 = 84 ✓; 36 + 16 + 36 = 88 ✓; 40 + 16 + 40 = 96 ✓.

Row 1 (RS): K1, ssk, knit to end — 29 (30, 34, 35, 39) sts.

Row 2 (WS): Purl.

Dec row (RS): K1, ssk, knit to end.

Rep the last 2 rows 5 (5, 6, 6, 7) more times — 24 (25, 28, 29, 32) sts rem.

Work even in St st, if needed, until this side matches the Right Front and Back, ending after a WS row. Place sts on a holder.

JOIN SHOULDERS

Turn the Front and Back so RS are together, shoulders aligned.

With a spare US 11 / 8 mm needle, 3-needle BO the 24 (25, 28, 29, 32) right-shoulder sts, then the 24 (25, 28, 29, 32) left-shoulder sts.

The center back BO and the front neck opening remain for the collar.

SIDE SEAMS

With RS together (or use mattress stitch with RS facing), sew each side seam from the hem upward, leaving the top 9½ (10, 10½, 11, 11½)" [24 (25.5, 26.5, 28, 29) cm] open for the armhole.

Seamed length from hem to underarm is 13½ (14, 14, 14½, 15)" [34.5 (35.5, 35.5, 37, 38) cm] (23 − 9½ = 13½ ✓; 24 − 10 = 14 ✓; 24½ − 10½ = 14 ✓; 25½ − 11 = 14½ ✓; 26½ − 11½ = 15 ✓).

SLEEVES

Worked in the round from the armhole down.

With US 11 / 8 mm needle, RS facing, and beginning at the underarm side seam, pick up and knit 28 (30, 32, 34, 36) sts evenly along the Front armhole edge to the shoulder, then 28 (30, 32, 34, 36) sts evenly along the Back armhole edge to the underarm.

56 (60, 64, 68, 72) sts. Pm for BOR.

Pickup rate: 28 sts over 9½" ≈ 3 sts/inch, matching gauge ✓.

Join to work in the round. Knit 3 rnds even.

Decrease rnd: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1 (2 sts decreased).

Work Decrease rnd every 4th (4th, 4th, 3rd, 3rd) rnd 12 (14, 14, 16, 16) times.

Sts rem: 32 (32, 36, 36, 40) (56 − 24 = 32 ✓; 60 − 28 = 32 ✓; 64 − 28 = 36 ✓; 68 − 32 = 36 ✓; 72 − 32 = 40 ✓).

Work even in St st until sleeve measures 13½ (14, 14, 14½, 14½)" [34.5 (35.5, 35.5, 37, 37) cm] from pickup.

Cuff

Change to US 10.5 / 6.5 mm needle.

Rib rnd: *K2, p2; rep from * to end. (32, 36, and 40 are multiples of 4 ✓)

Rep Rib rnd until cuff measures 3" [7.5 cm].

BO loosely in rib (use a larger needle if the cuff feels tight).

Rep for second sleeve.

Total sleeve length: 13½ + 3 = 16½" for S ✓; 14 + 3 = 17" for M and L ✓; 14½ + 3 = 17½" for XL and 2XL ✓.

ROLLNECK COLLAR

With US 11 / 8 mm needle, RS facing, and beginning at the left shoulder seam:

• Pick up and knit 12 (12, 13, 13, 16) sts down the left front neck slope
• Knit 12 (14, 14, 16, 16) sts from the front neck holder
• Pick up and knit 12 (12, 13, 13, 16) sts up the right front neck slope
• Pick up and knit 24 (26, 28, 30, 32) sts across the bound-off back neck

60 (64, 68, 72, 80) sts. Pm for BOR.

Check: 12 + 12 + 12 + 24 = 60 ✓; 12 + 14 + 12 + 26 = 64 ✓; 13 + 14 + 13 + 28 = 68 ✓; 13 + 16 + 13 + 30 = 72 ✓; 16 + 16 + 16 + 32 = 80 ✓.

Join to work in the round. Knit every rnd (St st) until the collar measures 5" [12.5 cm] from pickup.

BO loosely knitwise. A sewn bind-off or a needle one size larger keeps the edge stretchy enough to pass over the head.

The stockinette fabric will roll to the outside on its own. Do not press or stretch the roll flat.

FINISHING

Weave in remaining ends.

Wet-block the body and sleeves to the measurements below. Pin the rectangles square. Do not pin or stretch the rollneck; let it curl.

Once dry, steam the side and shoulder seams lightly if needed.

Schematic measurements

        |------ neck width ------|
        8 (8¾, 9¼, 10, 10¾)"
     ┌──┴──────────────────────┴──┐  ← shoulder line
     |  8 (8¼, 9¼, 9¾, 10¾)" each |
     |         shoulder            |
     |                             |  length 23 (24, 24½, 25½, 26½)"
     |                             |
     |   armhole 9½ (10, 10½,      |
     |           11, 11½)"         |
     |                             |
     └─────────────────────────────┘
        width 24 (25¼, 28, 29¼, 32)"
        bust  48 (50½, 56, 58¾, 64)"

     Sleeve (from pickup):
        top  18¾ (20, 21¼, 22¾, 24)"
        cuff 10¾ (10¾, 12, 12, 13¼)"
        length 16½ (17, 17, 17½, 17½)"

Fit notes

This is a dropped-shoulder, very generous pullover. The shoulder seam is meant to sit several inches down the upper arm. If you want less drop, go down a size; if you want a more cocoon-like fall, go up a size. Sleeve length is measured from the dropped armhole, not from the natural shoulder point — try the sleeve on before working the cuff.