purlJam

# Easy Beginner Crochet Socks

**A beginner-friendly cuff-down sock pattern worked in worsted weight yarn**

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## PATTERN INFORMATION

**Difficulty Level:** Beginner

**Sizing:** Small (Medium, Large)
- Small/Child: Fits foot circumference 18-19 cm (7-7.5")
- Medium/Women's: Fits foot circumference 20.5-21.5 cm (8-8.5")
- Large/Men's: Fits foot circumference 23-24 cm (9-9.5")

**Finished Measurements:**
- Cuff circumference: 18 (20.5, 23) cm / 7 (8, 9)" unstretched
- Leg length: 15 cm (6") from cast on to heel (adjustable)
- Foot length: Adjustable to fit

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## MATERIALS

**Yarn:** Worsted weight (Aran/10-ply) yarn
- **Yardage:** 180 (220, 260) metres / 200 (240, 285) yards total for pair
- **Suggested yarn:** Any machine-washable worsted weight sock yarn or standard worsted yarn with good durability

**Hook Size:** 4.0 mm (US G/6) or size needed to obtain correct tension

**Notions:**
- Yarn needle for weaving in ends
- Stitch markers (helpful but optional)
- Measuring tape

**Tension/Gauge:** 
16 stitches and 18 rows = 10 cm (4") in double crochet (UK dc/US sc)

**TENSION IS CRITICAL FOR SOCKS!** 
- Too loose: socks will be sloppy, slip down, and wear out quickly
- Too tight: uncomfortable, won't fit over heel, and lack stretch
- Always check your tension before beginning

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## ABBREVIATIONS

- ch = chain
- sl st = slip stitch
- dc = double crochet (US single crochet)
- htr = half treble crochet (US half double crochet)
- tr = treble crochet (US double crochet)
- dc2tog = double crochet 2 together (insert hook in first st, yarn over and pull through, insert hook in next st, yarn over and pull through, yarn over and pull through all 3 loops on hook)
- BLO = back loop only
- FLO = front loop only
- RS = right side
- WS = wrong side
- rep = repeat
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- sp = space

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## SPECIAL TECHNIQUES & NOTES

**Working in the Round:**
This pattern uses joined rounds (join with slip stitch at end of each round). Mark the beginning of each round with a stitch marker if helpful.

**Why Cuff-Down is Easier for Beginners:**
- You can try on the sock as you work to check the fit
- The construction is more intuitive (start at the top like pulling on a sock)
- You can easily adjust leg length before starting the heel
- No need to estimate exact foot length before beginning

**Stretch and Fit:**
Worsted weight socks work up quickly but will be thicker and warmer than traditional fingering weight socks. They're perfect for house socks or slipper socks! The ribbed cuff provides stretch for pulling the sock on.

**This pattern makes a PAIR (2 socks).** Make sure you have enough yarn for both!

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## PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS

### CUFF

**Foundation:** Ch 28 (32, 36) loosely. Being careful not to twist, sl st to first ch to join in the round.

**Round 1:** Ch 1 (does not count as st), dc in each ch around. Join with sl st to first dc. [28 (32, 36) sts]

**Rounds 2-8 (Ribbed Cuff):** Ch 1, *dc in FLO in next 2 sts, dc in BLO in next 2 sts; rep from * around. Join with sl st to first dc.

Working in the front loop creates a "knit stitch" appearance, while working in the back loop creates a "purl stitch" appearance. This creates a stretchy ribbed cuff similar to traditional knit socks.

Repeat Round 2 for a total of 8 rounds (approximately 4.5 cm / 1.75"). The ribbing should be stretchy but snug.

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### LEG

**Round 9:** Ch 1, dc in both loops of each st around. Join with sl st to first dc. [28 (32, 36) sts]

**Rounds 10-24:** Repeat Round 9.

Continue working even in double crochet (working through both loops) until leg measures 15 cm (6") from cast on edge, or desired length to top of heel. You can make the leg shorter or longer based on preference.

**Beginner Tip:** Try the sock on periodically to check fit! The sock should fit snugly but not be tight.

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### HEEL FLAP

The heel flap is worked back and forth in rows on half the stitches. The remaining stitches will be held and worked later for the instep.

**Set-up:** Ch 1, dc in next 14 (16, 18) sts. **TURN.** (Leave remaining 14 (16, 18) sts unworked - these are your instep stitches.)

**Row 1 (WS):** Ch 1 (does not count as st), dc in each st across. Turn. [14 (16, 18) sts]

**Row 2 (RS):** Ch 1, *sl st in next st, dc in next st; rep from * across. Turn.

The slip stitch pattern creates a denser, more durable fabric for the heel which receives the most wear.

**Rows 3-14:** Repeat Rows 1-2 six more times, ending with a WS row.

You should have a rectangular heel flap approximately 6.5 cm (2.5") long. Count your rows - you should be able to see 7 chain edge "bumps" along each side edge. These will be important for picking up stitches later.

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### HEEL TURN

The heel turn uses short rows to create the cup shape at the bottom of the heel. Don't worry - the instructions guide you through step by step!

**Row 1 (RS):** Ch 1, dc in next 8 (9, 10) sts, dc2tog, dc in next st. Turn, leaving remaining sts unworked. [10 (11, 12) sts worked]

**Row 2 (WS):** Ch 1, dc in next 3 sts, dc2tog, dc in next st. Turn, leaving remaining sts unworked. [5 sts worked]

**Row 3:** Ch 1, dc in next 4 sts, dc2tog, dc in next st. Turn. [6 sts worked]

**Row 4:** Ch 1, dc in next 5 sts, dc2tog, dc in next st. Turn. [7 sts worked]

**Row 5:** Ch 1, dc in next 6 sts, dc2tog, dc in next st. Turn. [8 sts worked]

Continue in this manner, working one more stitch before the decrease on each row, until all heel flap stitches have been worked, ending with a WS row. You should have 8 (10, 12) heel stitches remaining.

Do not turn after final row.

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### GUSSET

Now you'll pick up stitches along the sides of the heel flap and join back to working in the round. This creates the shaped heel of the sock.

**Round 1 (Pick-up round):**
- Ch 1, dc in each of the 8 (10, 12) heel sts
- Pick up and dc 7 sts evenly along the right edge of the heel flap (work into the chain edge spaces)
- Dc in each of the 14 (16, 18) held instep sts
- Pick up and dc 7 sts evenly along the left edge of the heel flap
- Join with sl st to first dc. [36 (40, 44) sts]

Place a marker at the beginning of the round (centre of sole).

**Beginner Tip - Picking Up Stitches:** Insert your hook into the edge space, yarn over, and pull up a loop, yarn over and complete the dc as normal. Try to space the picked-up stitches evenly along the edge.

**Round 2 (Decrease round):**
- Ch 1, dc in next 1 st, dc2tog, dc in next 5 sts (sole)
- Dc in next 14 (16, 18) sts (instep)
- Dc in next 5 sts, dc2tog, dc in next 1 st (sole)
- Join with sl st to first dc. [34 (38, 42) sts]

**Round 3:** Ch 1, dc in each st around. Join with sl st to first dc.

**Round 4 (Decrease round):**
- Ch 1, dc in next 1 st, dc2tog, dc in next 4 sts (sole)
- Dc in next 14 (16, 18) sts (instep)
- Dc in next 4 sts, dc2tog, dc in next 1 st (sole)
- Join with sl st to first dc. [32 (36, 40) sts]

**Round 5:** Ch 1, dc in each st around. Join with sl st to first dc.

**Round 6 (Decrease round):**
- Ch 1, dc in next 1 st, dc2tog, dc in next 3 sts (sole)
- Dc in next 14 (16, 18) sts (instep)
- Dc in next 3 sts, dc2tog, dc in next 1 st (sole)
- Join with sl st to first dc. [30 (34, 38) sts]

**Round 7:** Ch 1, dc in each st around. Join with sl st to first dc.

**Round 8 (Decrease round):**
- Ch 1, dc in next 1 st, dc2tog, dc in next 2 sts (sole)
- Dc in next 14 (16, 18) sts (instep)
- Dc in next 2 sts, dc2tog, dc in next 1 st (sole)
- Join with sl st to first dc. [28 (32, 36) sts]

You're back to the original stitch count! The sock should cup nicely around the heel.

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### FOOT

**Round 1:** Ch 1, dc in each st around. Join with sl st to first dc. [28 (32, 36) sts]

Repeat Round 1 until foot measures 5 cm (2") less than desired total foot length when measured from back of heel.

**Measuring Tip:** To determine foot length, measure the intended wearer's foot from back of heel to tip of longest toe, then subtract 5 cm (2") for the toe shaping.

**Standard foot lengths (from heel to toe tip):**
- Small/Child: 20-23 cm (8-9")
- Medium/Women's: 23-25.5 cm (9-10")
- Large/Men's: 25.5-28 cm (10-11")

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### TOE SHAPING

The toe is shaped with decreases at four points (sides of foot). We'll work decreases every other round for a gradual, comfortable toe shape.

**Set-up:** Rearrange your stitch markers (or just count) so you know where the four decrease points are:
- Decrease point 1: After 7 (8, 9) sts (side of foot)
- Decrease point 2: After 14 (16, 18) sts (top of foot)
- Decrease point 3: After 21 (24, 27) sts (side of foot)
- Decrease point 4: At end of round (bottom of foot)

**Round 1 (Decrease round):** 
- Ch 1, dc in next 5 (6, 7) sts, dc2tog, dc2tog
- Dc in next 10 (12, 14) sts, dc2tog, dc2tog
- Dc in next 5 (6, 7) sts, dc2tog, dc2tog
- Join with sl st to first dc. [24 (28, 32) sts]

**Round 2:** Ch 1, dc in each st around. Join with sl st to first dc.

**Round 3 (Decrease round):**
- Ch 1, dc in next 4 (5, 6) sts, dc2tog, dc2tog
- Dc in next 8 (10, 12) sts, dc2tog, dc2tog
- Dc in next 4 (5, 6) sts, dc2tog, dc2tog
- Join with sl st to first dc. [20 (24, 28) sts]

**Round 4:** Ch 1, dc in each st around. Join with sl st to first dc.

**Round 5 (Decrease round):**
- Ch 1, dc in next 3 (4, 5) sts, dc2tog, dc2tog
- Dc in next 6 (8, 10) sts, dc2tog, dc2tog
- Dc in next 3 (4, 5) sts, dc2tog, dc2tog
- Join with sl st to first dc. [16 (20, 24) sts]

**Round 6:** Ch 1, dc in each st around. Join with sl st to first dc.

**Round 7 (Decrease round):**
- Ch 1, dc in next 2 (3, 4) sts, dc2tog, dc2tog
- Dc in next 4 (6, 8) sts, dc2tog, dc2tog
- Dc in next 2 (3, 4) sts, dc2tog, dc2tog
- Join with sl st to first dc. [12 (16, 20) sts]

**For Size Small only:**
**Round 8:** Ch 1, dc in next 1 st, dc2tog, dc2tog, dc in next 2 sts, dc2tog, dc2tog, dc in next 1 st, dc2tog, dc2tog. Join with sl st to first dc. [8 sts]

**For Size Medium only:**
**Round 8:** Ch 1, dc in each st around. Join with sl st to first dc. [16 sts]
**Round 9:** Ch 1, dc in next 2 sts, dc2tog, dc2tog, dc in next 4 sts, dc2tog, dc2tog, dc in next 2 sts, dc2tog, dc2tog. Join with sl st to first dc. [12 sts]
**Round 10:** Ch 1, *dc in next 1 st, dc2tog; rep from * around. Join with sl st to first dc. [8 sts]

**For Size Large only:**
**Round 8:** Ch 1, dc in each st around. Join with sl st to first dc. [20 sts]
**Round 9:** Ch 1, dc in next 3 sts, dc2tog, dc2tog, dc in next 6 sts, dc2tog, dc2tog, dc in next 3 sts, dc2tog, dc2tog. Join with sl st to first dc. [16 sts]
**Round 10:** Ch 1, dc in each st around. Join with sl st to first dc. [16 sts]
**Round 11:** Ch 1, *dc in next 2 sts, dc2tog; rep from * around. Join with sl st to first dc. [12 sts]
**Round 12:** Ch 1, *dc in next 1 st, dc2tog; rep from * around. Join with sl st to first dc. [8 sts]

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### FINISHING

**All Sizes:**

Cut yarn leaving a 30 cm (12") tail.

**Closing the Toe:**

Thread the tail onto a yarn needle. Weave the needle through the remaining 8 stitches, going through the front loop of each stitch. Pull tight to close the toe opening. Weave the needle through the stitches once more for security, then weave in the end securely on the inside of the sock.

Alternatively, you can turn the sock inside out, flatten the toe so you have 4 stitches on each side, and whip stitch or single crochet the edges together for a flat toe seam.

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