purlJam

# Easy Worsted Weight Cuff-Down Socks

A perfect beginner sock pattern using worsted weight yarn for quick, cosy socks. Worked from the cuff down using the traditional heel flap method, this pattern is easier to follow than toe-up construction and allows you to try on as you go. The heavier yarn weight means these socks work up much faster than traditional fingering weight socks—perfect for your first pair!

**Skill Level:** Beginner

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## MATERIALS

### Yarn
- **Weight:** Worsted (10-ply/Aran)
- **Metreage:** Approximately 180-220 metres (200-240 yards) total for one pair
- **Recommended yarn:** Any superwash wool or wool blend worsted weight yarn suitable for socks
- **Colour:** Your choice

### Needles
- **Size:** 4.0mm (US 6) double-pointed needles (DPNs) OR one 4.0mm (US 6) circular needle 80cm (32") long for magic loop method
- Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain correct tension

### Notions
- Stitch marker
- Tapestry needle for weaving in ends and grafting toe
- Scissors

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## SIZING

These socks are worked to fit the following foot circumferences:

- **Small (Child/Narrow Adult):** 18cm (7") foot circumference
- **Medium (Women's/Average):** 20cm (8") foot circumference  
- **Large (Men's/Wide):** 23cm (9") foot circumference

**Foot length:** Adjustable to fit any foot length

**Note:** Socks should be worn with approximately 2.5cm (1") of negative ease (they should stretch to fit snugly). Measure around the ball of the foot for circumference.

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## TENSION (GAUGE)

**18 stitches and 26 rounds = 10cm (4") in stockinette stitch in the round**

**TENSION IS CRITICAL FOR SOCKS.** If your tension is too loose, the socks will bag and wear out quickly. If too tight, they will be uncomfortable and won't fit properly.

To check tension: Cast on 24 stitches and work 30 rounds in stockinette stitch in the round. Measure your swatch after removing from needles. If you have more stitches per 10cm, use larger needles. If fewer stitches, use smaller needles.

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## PATTERN NOTES

### Construction
These socks are worked in the round from the cuff down. You will:
1. Cast on and work a ribbed cuff
2. Work the leg in stockinette stitch
3. Work a heel flap back and forth on half the stitches
4. Turn the heel with short rows
5. Pick up stitches along the heel flap to form gussets
6. Decrease the gusset back to the original stitch count
7. Work the foot in stockinette stitch
8. Shape the toe with decreases
9. Graft the toe closed using Kitchener stitch

### Working Methods
You can work these socks using either:
- **4 or 5 double-pointed needles (DPNs):** Distribute stitches evenly across 3 or 4 needles, use the extra needle to knit.
- **Magic loop method:** Use one long circular needle and work all stitches on one circular needle, pulling the cable through at the halfway point.

Both methods work equally well—use whichever you prefer!

### Stitch Distribution
The pattern refers to Needle 1, Needle 2, Needle 3, and Needle 4:
- **Needles 1 and 2** hold the instep (top of foot) stitches
- **Needles 3 and 4** hold the sole (bottom of foot) stitches
- The heel flap and heel turn are worked on Needles 3 and 4 only

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## ABBREVIATIONS

- **k** = knit
- **p** = purl
- **k2tog** = knit 2 stitches together (right-leaning decrease)
- **ssk** = slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease): slip 2 stitches knitwise one at a time, insert left needle into front of both slipped stitches and knit together
- **sl** = slip stitch purlwise with yarn in back unless otherwise stated
- **pm** = place marker
- **RS** = right side
- **WS** = wrong side
- **st(s)** = stitch(es)

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## PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS

### CUFF

Using your preferred cast-on method (long-tail cast-on recommended), cast on:
- **Small:** 36 sts
- **Medium:** 40 sts
- **Large:** 44 sts

Divide stitches evenly across your needles:
- **If using DPNs:** 9-9-9-9 (10-10-10-10, 11-11-11-11) stitches on 4 needles
- **If using magic loop:** 18-18 (20-20, 22-22) stitches on each half of circular needle

Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist stitches. Place marker to indicate beginning of round.

**Ribbing:**
Round 1: *K2, p2; repeat from * to end of round.

Repeat Round 1 until cuff measures 5cm (2") from cast-on edge.

**Tip:** The ribbing creates stretch and helps the sock stay up on your leg. Make sure to keep your tension consistent—not too tight or the cuff won't stretch over your heel!

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### LEG

Work in stockinette stitch (knit every round) until leg measures 15cm (6") from cast-on edge, or desired length to top of heel.

**Note:** You can make the leg shorter or longer to suit your preference. A shorter leg creates an ankle sock, while a longer leg creates a crew or knee-high sock.

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### HEEL FLAP

The heel flap is worked back and forth (flat knitting) on half of the stitches.

**Set-up:**
- **Needles 1 and 2 (instep stitches):** Place these 18 (20, 22) stitches on hold (leave them on the needles but don't work them)
- **Needles 3 and 4 (heel stitches):** You will work back and forth on these 18 (20, 22) stitches only

**Heel Flap Pattern:**

**Row 1 (RS):** *Sl 1, k1; repeat from * to end of heel stitches.

**Row 2 (WS):** Sl 1, purl to end of heel stitches.

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until you have worked 18 (20, 22) rows total. Your heel flap should be approximately square. End having just completed a WS row.

**Tip:** The slipped stitches create a dense, cushioned fabric that wears well. Count your slipped stitch "chains" along the edge—you should have 9 (10, 11) chains on each side. These will be important when picking up stitches for the gusset!

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### HEEL TURN

Now you'll use short rows to shape the heel cup. Continue working on the heel stitches only.

**Row 1 (RS):** Sl 1, k9 (11, 12), ssk, k1, turn work.

**Row 2 (WS):** Sl 1, p3 (5, 5), p2tog, p1, turn work.

**Row 3 (RS):** Sl 1, knit to 1 stitch before gap, ssk (this uses 1 stitch from each side of the gap), k1, turn work.

**Row 4 (WS):** Sl 1, purl to 1 stitch before gap, p2tog (this uses 1 stitch from each side of the gap), p1, turn work.

Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until all heel stitches have been worked. End having completed a WS row.

You should have 10 (12, 12) heel stitches remaining.

**Tip:** The "gap" referred to is the space created when you turned the work in previous rows. Don't worry if this seems confusing at first—just follow the instructions and you'll see the heel cup form like magic!

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### GUSSET

Now you'll pick up stitches along the sides of the heel flap and begin working in the round again.

**Set-up Round:**
1. With RS facing and continuing with the working yarn from the heel turn, k10 (12, 12) heel stitches. This is now **Needle 4**.
2. Using a new needle (**Needle 1**), pick up and knit 9 (10, 11) stitches along the left side of the heel flap (pick up 1 stitch in each slipped stitch chain).
3. Using new needles (**Needles 2 and 3**, or continuing with Needle 1 if using magic loop), knit across the 18 (20, 22) held instep stitches.
4. Using another new needle (**Needle 4**, or second magic loop needle), pick up and knit 9 (10, 11) stitches along the right side of the heel flap.
5. Using the same needle, knit the first 5 (6, 6) stitches from the heel. **This is now the beginning of the round.** Place marker if needed.

**Stitch count:** 46 (52, 56) stitches total
- Needle 1: 14 (16, 17) sts (5-6-6 heel sts + 9-10-11 picked up sts)
- Needles 2 and 3: 18 (20, 22) instep sts
- Needle 4: 14 (16, 17) sts (9-10-11 picked up sts + 5-6-6 heel sts)

**Gusset Decreases:**

**Round 1 (decrease round):**
- Needle 1: Knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1
- Needles 2 and 3: Knit all instep stitches
- Needle 4: K1, ssk, knit to end

**Round 2:** Knit all stitches.

Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 until you have returned to your original stitch count of 36 (40, 44) stitches total.

**Tip:** The gusset decreases should be smooth and symmetrical on each side of the foot. If you see a gap where you picked up stitches, pick up an extra stitch and decrease it away in the next round.

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### FOOT

Continue knitting in the round (knit all stitches every round) until foot measures 5cm (2") less than desired total foot length.

**To measure:** Try the sock on! It should reach to the beginning of your toes.

**Measuring tip:** For a recipient who isn't present, measure a well-fitting sock or shoe, or use these general guidelines:
- Measure from back of heel to tip of longest toe
- Subtract 5cm (2") for the toe shaping

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### TOE

**Round 1 (decrease round):**
- Needle 1: Knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1
- Needle 2: K1, ssk, knit to end
- Needle 3: Knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1
- Needle 4: K1, ssk, knit to end

**Round 2:** Knit all stitches.

Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 until 16 (20, 20) stitches remain.

Then work Round 1 (decrease round) every round until 8 (8, 8) stitches remain.

**Tip:** When you have very few stitches remaining, it may be easier to knit all the stitches onto one or two needles before grafting.

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### FINISHING

**Grafting the Toe (Kitchener Stitch):**

Arrange stitches so you have 4 stitches on two needles, with needles parallel and RS facing out.

Cut yarn leaving a 30cm (12") tail. Thread tail onto tapestry needle.

**Set-up:**
- Insert tapestry needle purlwise through first stitch on front needle, leave stitch on needle
- Insert tapestry needle knitwise through first stitch on back needle, leave stitch on needle

**Repeat these four steps until all stitches are grafted:**

1. Insert tapestry needle knitwise through first stitch on front needle, slip stitch off needle
2. Insert tapestry needle purlwise through next stitch on front needle, leave stitch on needle
3. Insert tapestry needle purlwise through first stitch on back needle, slip stitch off needle
4. Insert tapestry needle knitwise through next stitch on back needle, leave stitch on needle

When all stitches have been worked, pull yarn through to inside of sock and weave in end.

**Tip:** Kitchener stitch seems complicated at first, but remember: "knit off, purl on" for the front needle, and "purl off, knit on" for the back needle. Take your time and the seam will be invisible!

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### WEAVING IN ENDS

Turn sock inside out. Using tapestry needle, weave all yarn tails into the fabric for at least 5cm (2"), following the path of the stitches. Trim excess yarn. Turn sock right side out.

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## MAKE THE SECOND SOCK

Repeat all instructions to make the second sock. 

**Tip:** To ensure both socks are the same size, keep notes of any modifications you make (leg length, foot length, etc.) and match them on the second sock.

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## CARE INSTRUCTIONS

Hand wash in cool water with wool wash. Gently squeeze out excess water (do not wring). Lay flat to dry on a towel, reshaping as needed.

If using superwash wool, you may machine wash on gentle cycle in a mesh laundry bag, but air drying is still recommended to extend the life of your hand-knitted socks.

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## TROUBLESHOOTING

**Gap at the gusset:** Pick up an extra stitch in the gap on your next sock, then decrease it away immediately.

**Sock is too loose:** Use smaller needles and check your tension carefully.

**Sock is too tight:** Use larger needles. Remember, socks should have about 2.5cm (1") of negative ease, but not more.

**Heel feels too small:** Work 2-4 more rows on the heel flap before turning the heel.

**Don't know your sock size:** For an adult, cast on 40 stitches (medium) and try the sock on as you go. The ribbing and stockinette stitch have natural stretch.

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## DESIGN NOTES

This pattern uses worsted weight yarn instead of the traditional fingering weight sock yarn, making these socks work up approximately 3-4 times faster than standard socks. The heavier fabric creates warm, cosy socks perfect for wearing around the house or as boot socks.

The traditional heel flap construction is ideal for beginners because:
- The heel flap is easy to understand (just back-and-forth rows)
- You can try the sock on as you work to check fit
- The construction progresses logically from cuff to toe
- The slipped stitch heel is cushioned and hardwearing

While these socks are wonderful for house socks or boot liners, worsted weight socks are generally too thick to wear inside everyday shoes. For everyday socks, consider making another pair using fingering weight yarn and adjusting the stitch count to 56-64-72 stitches using 2.5mm needles.

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## ABBREVIATIONS REFERENCE

- **k** = knit
- **p** = purl
- **k2tog** = knit 2 together (decrease)
- **ssk** = slip, slip, knit (decrease)
- **sl** = slip stitch
- **pm** = place marker
- **RS** = right side
- **WS** = wrong side
- **st(s)** = stitch(es)
- **DPN** = double-pointed needle

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**© 2024 This Pattern**

For personal use only. Please do not reproduce or sell this pattern. You may sell items made from this pattern with credit to the designer.

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**Happy Knitting! Enjoy your cosy new socks!**