purlJam

# Easy Worsted Weight Cuff-Down Socks

**A beginner-friendly sock pattern perfect for cosy everyday wear**

## Materials

- **Yarn:** 150-200g worsted weight wool or wool blend yarn (choose a yarn with good stitch definition and durability)
- **Needles:** 4.5mm (US 7) double-pointed needles OR 4.5mm circular needle for magic loop method
- **Notions:** Tapestry needle for seaming, stitch markers (optional)

*Note: This pattern makes one pair of socks (2 socks)*

## Sizes

- **Small (Child/Teen):** 40 stitches, 18cm (7") foot circumference
- **Medium (Women's):** 44 stitches, 20cm (8") foot circumference  
- **Large (Men's):** 48 stitches, 23cm (9") foot circumference

## Tension

**18 stitches and 24 rows = 10cm (4") in stocking stitch**

*Tension is critical for proper sock fit. Too loose and socks will slip; too tight and they'll be uncomfortable. Make a tension square before beginning.*

## Pattern Notes

This cuff-down construction is ideal for beginners as you can try the sock on as you work and adjust length as needed. The traditional heel flap method creates a durable, comfortable heel that's easier to understand than other heel constructions.

**Stitch Distribution for DPNs:**
- Needles 1 & 2: Hold heel/sole stitches
- Needles 3 & 4: Hold instep stitches

**Abbreviations:**
- k = knit
- p = purl  
- k2tog = knit 2 together
- ssk = slip, slip, knit (slip 2 stitches knitwise, return to left needle, knit together through back loops)
- sl = slip stitch
- RS = right side
- WS = wrong side

## Instructions

### Cuff

Cast on 40 (44, 48) stitches using your preferred method. Divide evenly amongst 4 double-pointed needles: 10 (11, 12) stitches per needle.

Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist stitches. Place marker to indicate beginning of round if desired.

**Rounds 1-16:** *K2, p2; repeat from * to end of round.

Your cuff should measure approximately 4cm (1.5") in length.

### Leg

**Rounds 1-36:** Knit all stitches.

Continue until leg measures 15cm (6") from cast-on edge, or desired length to top of heel.

### Heel Flap

The heel flap is worked back and forth on half the total stitches.

**Setup:** Place 20 (22, 24) stitches on one needle for heel flap. Divide remaining 20 (22, 24) stitches between 2 needles to hold for instep.

**Row 1 (RS):** *Sl 1, k1; repeat from * across heel stitches.
**Row 2 (WS):** Sl 1, purl to end.

Repeat these 2 rows 10 (11, 12) more times for a total of 22 (24, 26) rows.

The slipped stitch pattern creates a sturdy heel and makes picking up stitches easier.

### Heel Turn

This creates the cup shape of the heel using short rows.

**Row 1 (RS):** K12 (13, 14), ssk, k1, turn.
**Row 2 (WS):** Sl 1, p5, p2tog, p1, turn.
**Row 3:** Sl 1, k6, ssk, k1, turn.
**Row 4:** Sl 1, p7, p2tog, p1, turn.
**Row 5:** Sl 1, k8, ssk, k1, turn.
**Row 6:** Sl 1, p9, p2tog, p1, turn.

Continue in this manner, working one more stitch before the decrease on each row, until all heel stitches have been worked. You should have 12 (14, 14) stitches remaining.

### Gusset

Pick up stitches along the sides of the heel flap to rejoin for round knitting.

**Setup:**
- With heel needle, pick up and knit 11 (12, 13) stitches along left side of heel flap
- Knit across 20 (22, 24) instep stitches
- Pick up and knit 11 (12, 13) stitches along right side of heel flap
- Knit 6 (7, 7) stitches from heel needle

Redistribute stitches:
- Needle 1: 17 (19, 20) stitches (heel and right gusset)
- Needle 2: 10 (11, 12) stitches (instep)
- Needle 3: 10 (11, 12) stitches (instep)  
- Needle 4: 17 (19, 20) stitches (left gusset and heel)

Total: 54 (60, 64) stitches

### Gusset Decreases

**Round 1:**
- Needle 1: Knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1
- Needles 2 & 3: Knit all stitches
- Needle 4: K1, ssk, knit to end

**Round 2:** Knit all stitches.

Repeat these 2 rounds until 40 (44, 48) stitches remain: 10 (11, 12) stitches on each needle.

### Foot

Continue knitting in rounds until foot measures 5cm (2") less than desired total foot length.

*For reference: Measure from back of heel to end of longest toe*

### Toe Decreases

**Round 1:**
- Needle 1: Knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1
- Needle 2: K1, ssk, knit to end
- Needle 3: Knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1
- Needle 4: K1, ssk, knit to end

**Round 2:** Knit all stitches.

Repeat these 2 rounds until 20 (22, 24) stitches remain.

Then work Round 1 only (decreasing every round) until 8 stitches remain.

### Finishing

Cut yarn, leaving a 20cm (8") tail. Thread tail through tapestry needle.

**Kitchener Stitch Closure:**
1. Hold stitches on 2 needles (4 stitches each)
2. Thread tapestry needle through first stitch on front needle as if to purl, leave stitch on needle
3. Thread tapestry needle through first stitch on back needle as if to knit, leave stitch on needle
4. *Thread through first stitch on front needle as if to knit, slip off needle; thread through next stitch on front needle as if to purl, leave on needle
5. Thread through first stitch on back needle as if to purl, slip off needle; thread through next stitch on back needle as if to knit, leave on needle*
6. Repeat from * until all stitches are grafted

Weave in all ends securely.

### Second Sock

Work exactly as for first sock.

## Care Instructions

Hand wash in cool water with wool detergent. Lay flat to dry. Do not wring or twist.

## Tips for Success

- **Tension consistency** is crucial - practice with scrap yarn if needed
- **Try on frequently** as you work to check fit
- **Mark your place** in the pattern to avoid confusion
- **Use lifelines** at key points (after heel turn, before toe) for security
- **Weave in ends as you go** for easier finishing

**Troubleshooting:**
- If socks are too loose: Try smaller needles or tighter tension
- If socks are too tight: Try larger needles or looser tension
- Holes at gusset: Pick up an extra stitch and decrease it away in following rounds

Enjoy your cosy, hand-knitted socks!