purlJam

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# ✨ Ember the Magic Dragon — Knitted Amigurumi

### A Beginner Knitted Soft Toy Pattern

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## ABOUT THIS PATTERN

Meet Ember — a round, squishy little dragon with shimmering magical wings! The wings are worked flat using simple yarn-over eyelets, creating an open, lacy "stained-glass" effect that looks enchanting without requiring any advanced skills. Every other piece is worked in the round in smooth stockinette. This is a perfect first amigurumi project for a knitter who knows the knit and purl stitch and is ready for a small adventure.

**Finished Size:** Approximately 7 in (18 cm) tall when assembled, sitting upright.

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## MATERIALS

| Item | Details |
|---|---|
| **Main Color (MC)** | Worsted weight yarn — approx. 120 yds (110 m) — suggested: teal, green, purple, or any dragon color you love |
| **Contrast Color (CC)** | Worsted weight yarn — approx. 40 yds (37 m) — suggested: gold, pale yellow, or iridescent/sparkle yarn for the magical wings |
| **Needles** | US 5 / 3.75 mm DPNs (set of 4 or 5) **OR** one 32 in (80 cm) circular needle for Magic Loop |
| **Safety Eyes** | Two 12 mm black safety eyes |
| **Stuffing** | Polyester fiberfill — approximately 1.5 oz (42 g) |
| **Tapestry Needle** | For seaming and weaving in ends |
| **Stitch Markers** | 2 locking markers or split-ring markers |
| **Scissors** | — |

> **Note on Yarn:** A sparkle or "tinsel" yarn held together with a smooth worsted CC yarn for the wings creates a truly magical effect. If using a halo or fuzzy yarn for the wings, the eyelets will be partially obscured — choose a smooth yarn to show off the lace pattern.

> **Child Safety Note:** Safety eyes are not suitable for children under 3 years. For a gift for a young child, embroider eyes with black yarn instead.

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## GAUGE

**18 sts × 24 rounds = 4 in (10 cm)** in stockinette stitch, worked in the round, on US 5 / 3.75 mm needles.

> **Important Gauge Note:** For amigurumi, achieving a tight, dense fabric is more important than matching exact gauge. Your fabric should not allow stuffing to show through the stitches. If you can see daylight through your knitting when held up to a window, go down one more needle size. Gauge affects finished size but not the toy's structure or safety.

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## ABBREVIATIONS

| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| **CO** | Cast on |
| **BO** | Bind off |
| **k** | Knit |
| **p** | Purl |
| **k2tog** | Knit 2 stitches together (right-leaning decrease — 1 stitch decreased) |
| **ssk** | Slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease — 1 stitch decreased) |
| **yo** | Yarn over (creates a decorative eyelet hole) |
| **kfb** | Knit into the front then back of the same stitch (increase — 1 stitch added) |
| **pm** | Place marker |
| **sm** | Slip marker |
| **rnd(s)** | Round(s) |
| **RS** | Right side |
| **WS** | Wrong side |
| **st(s)** | Stitch(es) |
| **approx** | Approximately |

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## SPECIAL TECHNIQUES FOR BEGINNERS

### Working in the Round on DPNs
Cast on all stitches onto one needle, then distribute evenly across 3 or 4 DPNs, being careful not to twist. Use the remaining needle as your working needle. The beginning of the round is always where you cast on.

### Magic Loop Method
Cast all stitches onto your long circular needle. Slide stitches to the cable, fold the cable in half, and pull a loop of cable out between the center two stitches. You will now have stitches on both needle tips. Knit back and forth across each half in turn.

### Mattress Stitch Seaming
To join two pieces together: Thread your tapestry needle with a length of MC yarn. Place pieces side by side with right sides facing out. Insert needle under one stitch bar on the left piece, then under one stitch bar on the right piece. Pull gently and repeat, pulling yarn snug every few stitches to close the seam invisibly.

### Kfb (Knit Front Back Increase)
Insert needle knitwise into the next stitch. Knit it but do NOT slip it off the left needle. Swing the right needle to the back and insert it into the BACK loop of the same stitch. Knit again. Now slip both loops off. You have made 2 stitches from 1.

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## CONSTRUCTION OVERVIEW

The dragon is made in **7 separate pieces**, assembled at the end:

1. Body (MC) — worked in the round
2. Head (MC) — worked in the round
3. Tail (MC) — worked in the round
4. Legs × 4 (MC) — worked in the round
5. Horns × 2 (MC) — worked in the round (tiny tubes)
6. Wings × 2 (CC) — worked **flat** in lace eyelet pattern

**Assembly Order:** Legs → Body → Tail → Head → Horns → Wings

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## PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS

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### PIECE 1: BODY

*Worked in the round in stockinette (knit every round). MC.*

**CO 8 sts.** Distribute across DPNs or set up for Magic Loop. Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist. Pm to mark beginning of round.

**Rnd 1:** \[kfb\] 8 times. — **16 sts**
*(You have doubled your stitch count. Each kfb turns 1 st into 2.)*

**Rnd 2:** Knit all sts.

**Rnd 3:** \[kfb, k1\] 8 times. — **24 sts**
*(Inline check: 8 repeats × 2 sts per repeat = 16 sts worked, each creating 1 new st → 16 + 8 = 24 sts ✓)*

**Rnds 4–16:** Knit all sts. *(13 rounds even — this forms the main barrel of the body.)*

**Rnd 17:** \[k2tog, k1\] 8 times. — **16 sts**
*(Inline check: 8 repeats of k2tog then k1 = 8 decreases removed → 24 − 8 = 16 sts ✓)*

> **Stuff the body firmly now.** Fill the body with polyester fiberfill until it is round and firm. Do not wait until the opening is too small to stuff easily. Add a little more than you think you need — the toy will feel nicer when fully firm.

**Rnd 18:** \[k2tog\] 8 times. — **8 sts**
*(Inline check: 8 k2togs → 16 − 8 = 8 sts ✓)*

**Rnd 19:** \[k2tog\] 4 times. — **4 sts**

**Finishing:** Cut yarn, leaving a 6 in (15 cm) tail. Thread onto tapestry needle and draw through remaining 4 sts. Pull tight to close. Weave tail end securely inside the body. Set aside.

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### PIECE 2: HEAD

*Worked in the round in stockinette. MC.*

**CO 8 sts.** Distribute and join as for Body.

**Rnd 1:** \[kfb\] 8 times. — **16 sts**

**Rnd 2:** Knit all sts.

**Rnd 3:** \[kfb, k1\] 8 times. — **24 sts**

**Rnds 4–12:** Knit all sts. *(9 rounds even.)*

> **Insert safety eyes NOW before continuing.** Count to find the center of your work. Insert the safety eyes approximately 1 in (2.5 cm) apart, positioned on Rnds 6–7 (roughly the midpoint of the head's height). Push the safety washer firmly onto each post from the inside. Once locked, they cannot be removed. If embroidering instead, do so after finishing.

**Rnd 13:** \[k2tog, k1\] 8 times. — **16 sts**
*(24 − 8 = 16 sts ✓)*

> **Stuff the head firmly now.** The head should be a plump, round ball. Make sure to stuff right up into the top of the head before the opening becomes too small.

**Rnd 14:** \[k2tog\] 8 times. — **8 sts**
*(16 − 8 = 8 sts ✓)*

**Rnd 15:** \[k2tog\] 4 times. — **4 sts**

**Finishing:** Cut yarn, draw through 4 sts, pull tight, weave in end. Set aside.

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### PIECE 3: TAIL

*Worked in the round in stockinette. MC.*

The tail is a tapered tube — wide at the base, narrow at the tip.

**CO 16 sts.** Distribute and join.

**Rnds 1–4:** Knit all sts. *(4 rounds even — wide base of tail.)*

**Rnd 5:** \[k2tog, k6\] 2 times. — **14 sts**
*(2 decreases → 16 − 2 = 14 sts ✓)*

**Rnds 6–8:** Knit all sts.

**Rnd 9:** \[k2tog, k5\] 2 times. — **12 sts**
*(2 decreases → 14 − 2 = 12 sts ✓)*

**Rnds 10–12:** Knit all sts.

**Rnd 13:** \[k2tog, k4\] 2 times. — **10 sts**
*(2 decreases → 12 − 2 = 10 sts ✓)*

**Rnds 14–15:** Knit all sts.

**Rnd 16:** \[k2tog, k3\] 2 times. — **8 sts**
*(2 decreases → 10 − 2 = 8 sts ✓)*

**Rnds 17–18:** Knit all sts.

**Rnd 19:** \[k2tog\] 4 times. — **4 sts**
*(8 − 4 = 4 sts ✓)*

> **Stuff lightly as you go.** The tail looks best with just enough stuffing to hold its shape — not as firm as the body. Stuff in stages as the tube gets narrower.

**Finishing:** Cut yarn, draw through 4 sts, pull tight, weave in end. Set aside.

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### PIECE 4: LEGS (Make 4)

*Worked in the round in stockinette. MC.*

**CO 12 sts.** Distribute and join.

**Rnds 1–8:** Knit all sts. *(8 rounds even — forms a small cylinder.)*

> **Stuff firmly now**, before closing.

**Rnd 9:** \[k2tog\] 6 times. — **6 sts**
*(12 − 6 = 6 sts ✓)*

**Finishing:** Cut yarn, draw through 6 sts, pull tight, weave in end. Make all 4 legs before assembling. Set aside.

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### PIECE 5: HORNS (Make 2)

*Worked in the round in stockinette. MC.*

The horns are tiny tubes, open at the base for sewing on, and closed at the tip.

**CO 8 sts.** Distribute and join.

**Rnds 1–4:** Knit all sts. *(4 rounds even.)*

**Rnd 5:** \[k2tog\] 4 times. — **4 sts**
*(8 − 4 = 4 sts ✓)*

> **Do NOT stuff the horns.** They hold their shape better when empty, and stuffing would make them too heavy.

**Finishing:** Cut yarn, draw through 4 sts, pull tight, weave in end. Leave the cast-on end long (about 12 in / 30 cm) for sewing on. Make 2. Set aside.

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### PIECE 6: MAGICAL WINGS (Make 2)

*Worked FLAT (back and forth), NOT in the round. CC yarn.*

> **About the Magical Wings:** These wings are worked flat using a simple lace pattern of yarn-overs (yo) and decreases (k2tog). The yo creates a hole — an eyelet — and the k2tog keeps the stitch count the same. When these eyelets are blocked and spread open, the wing looks like a piece of delicate stained glass or a dragonfly wing. This is what makes Ember magical! Do NOT stuff the wings.

> **Beginner Tip:** Yarn-overs can feel awkward at first. A yo simply means: before knitting the next stitch, wrap the yarn once counterclockwise around the right needle. Then continue knitting. On the next row, treat the yo as a regular stitch.

**CO 16 sts** using the long-tail cast-on or any cast-on you know. Do not join — you will work flat.

**Row 1 (RS):** K2, \[yo, k2tog\] 6 times, k2. — **16 sts**
*(Inline check: 2 + 12 + 2 = 16 sts. Each yo adds 1, each k2tog removes 1 → net change = 0 → 16 sts remain ✓)*

**Row 2 (WS):** Purl all sts. — **16 sts**

**Row 3 (RS):** K2, \[yo, k2tog\] 6 times, k2. — **16 sts**

**Row 4 (WS):** Purl all sts.

**Row 5 (RS) — begin shaping wing tip:**
Ssk, k1, \[yo, k2tog\] 5 times, k1, k2tog. — **14 sts**
*(Inline check: ssk removes 1, k2tog removes 1 → 16 − 2 = 14; 5 yo/k2tog pairs cancel out ✓)*

**Row 6 (WS):** Purl all sts. — **14 sts**

**Row 7 (RS):**
Ssk, k1, \[yo, k2tog\] 4 times, k1, k2tog. — **12 sts**
*(14 − 2 = 12 ✓)*

**Row 8 (WS):** Purl all sts. — **12 sts**

**Row 9 (RS):**
Ssk, k1, \[yo, k2tog\] 3 times, k1, k2tog. — **10 sts**
*(12 − 2 = 10 ✓)*

**Row 10 (WS):** Purl all sts. — **10 sts**

**Row 11 (RS):**
Ssk, \[yo, k2tog\] 3 times, k2tog. — **8 sts**
*(10 − 2 = 8 ✓)*

**Row 12 (WS):** Purl all sts. — **8 sts**

**Row 13 (RS):**
Ssk, \[yo, k2tog\] 2 times, k2tog. — **6 sts**
*(8 − 2 = 6 ✓)*

**Row 14 (WS):** Purl all sts. — **6 sts**

**Row 15 (RS):**
Ssk, yo, k2tog, k2tog. — **4 sts**
*(6 − 2 = 4 ✓)*

**Row 16 (WS):** Purl all sts. — **4 sts**

**Row 17 (RS):** \[k2tog\] 2 times. — **2 sts**
*(4 − 2 = 2 ✓)*

**BO** remaining 2 sts. Cut yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing.

**Make 2 wings.** They should be mirror images naturally due to the triangular shaping.

> **Optional Blocking for Maximum Magic:** Wet the wings gently, pin them flat on a foam mat or towel in a wing shape, stretching the eyelets open, and allow to dry completely. This opens the lacy holes and creates the full stained-glass magical effect. This step is optional but highly recommended.

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## FINISHING & ASSEMBLY

### Step 1: Prepare All Pieces

Lay out all pieces and confirm you have: 1 body, 1 head, 1 tail, 4 legs, 2 horns, 2 wings. Weave in any remaining short ends.

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### Step 2: Attach the Legs

Position the **4 legs symmetrically** on the underside of the body:
- **2 front legs:** Place on either side of the body, approximately 1 in (2.5 cm) down from the top (neck end) of the body, and 1 in (2.5 cm) in from each side.
- **2 back legs:** Place on either side of the body, approximately 1 in (2.5 cm) up from the bottom (tail end), 1 in (2.5 cm) in from each side.

Pin or hold each leg in place with a locking stitch marker before sewing. Thread a tapestry needle with MC. Sew each leg to the body using mattress stitch or whipstitch, going around the entire opening of the leg top at least twice for security. Weave all ends inside the body.

> **Symmetry Tip:** Measure with a ruler or count rows to make sure all 4 legs are at the same height before sewing. Pin all 4 before sewing any — this lets you check the look before committing.

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### Step 3: Attach the Tail

Position the tail at the **back, lower center** of the body, curving slightly to one side if desired for personality. The wide open end of the tail attaches to the body. Using mattress stitch and MC, sew the tail opening securely to the body, going around twice. Weave ends inside.

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### Step 4: Attach the Head to the Body

Position the head on top of the body. The flat closed bottom of the head sits against the flat closed top of the body. The safety eyes should face forward.

Thread tapestry needle with MC. Using mattress stitch, sew the head to the body all the way around, going through corresponding stitches on both pieces. Pull firmly but not so tight that the fabric puckers. Go around the join twice for strength. Weave ends securely inside.

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### Step 5: Attach the Horns

Position the **2 horns on top of the head**, approximately 0.75 in (2 cm) apart, centered. Using the long cast-on tail, sew each horn firmly to the head using whipstitch, going around the base of each horn at least twice. Horns should stand upright. Weave ends inside the head.

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### Step 6: Attach the Wings

Position the **2 wings on the back of the body**, placed symmetrically, one on each side. The **wide base (cast-on edge) of each wing sits at the top**, against the body's back, just below where the head joins. The wings angle outward and slightly upward for a flying pose, or downward and outward for a resting pose.

Using CC yarn and a tapestry needle, whipstitch the cast-on edge of each wing firmly to the back of the body. Make sure both wings are at the same height and angle before finishing. Weave all ends inside the body.

> **Wing Angle Tip:** Try pinning the wings in different positions and looking at your dragon from the front before sewing. Wings angled upward (about 45°) look dynamic and magical. Wings held flat to the sides look calm and elegant.

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### Step 7: Final Touches — Embroidery (Optional)

Using a small amount of CC or a bright embroidery yarn, you may optionally:
- **Embroider nostrils:** Two small "V" shapes in satin stitch, centered below the eyes on the lower face.
- **Embroider claws:** 2–3 straight stitches at the bottom of each leg.
- **Embroider eyebrows:** Two small angled stitches above each eye for personality.

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## CARE INSTRUCTIONS

Hand wash in cool water with mild soap. Gently squeeze — do not wring. Reshape while damp. Lay flat to dry. Do not machine wash or tumble dry, as this may cause felting or distortion, and may loosen embroidered features.

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## YARN AMOUNTS SUMMARY

| Piece | Yarn | Estimated Amount |
|---|---|---|
| Body | MC | ~30 yds (27 m) |
| Head | MC | ~25 yds (23 m) |
| Tail | MC | ~20 yds (18 m) |
| Legs × 4 | MC | ~30 yds (27 m) |
| Horns × 2 | MC | ~10 yds (9 m) |
| Wings × 2 | CC | ~35 yds (32 m) |
| Seaming | MC | ~5 yds (5 m) |
| **TOTAL MC** | | **~120 yds (110 m)** |
| **TOTAL CC** | | **~35–40 yds (32–37 m)** |

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## QUICK REFERENCE — STITCH COUNTS AT A GLANCE

| Piece | CO | Max Sts | Final Sts |
|---|---|---|---|
| Body | 8 | 24 | Closed |
| Head | 8 | 24 | Closed |
| Tail | 16 | 16 | Closed |
| Each Leg | 12 | 12 | Closed |
| Each Horn | 8 | 8 | Closed |
| Each Wing | 16 | 16 | 2 then BO |

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*Happy knitting, and may Ember bring a little magic wherever she goes!* ✨🐉