purlJam

# Felted Scandi-Style Container

**Description:** A sturdy, double-thick felted cylinder ideal for holding utensils, knitting needles, or dried flowers. The base is quickly created on a circular knitting machine, while the decorative rim is hand-knitted to add texture and a professional finish.

**Difficulty Level:** Beginner
**Finished Size (Approximate):** 20 cm (8 inches) height x 10-12 cm diameter (after felting).

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## Materials & Specifications

**Yarn Weight:** Worsted (Aran / 10 ply)
**Fibre Content:** 100% Non-Superwash Wool.
*CRITICAL:* Do not use "Superwash" or synthetic blends (acrylic/polyester). They will NOT felt.

**Yarn Quantities:**
*   **Main Colour (White):** 150g (approx. 250 metres)
*   **Contrast Colour (Trim):** 50g

**Tools:**
*   **Knitting Machine:** Circular machine (Addi King Size 46, Sentro 48, or similar generic 40-42 pin machine).
*   **Hand Knitting Needles:** 5.0 mm (UK 6 / US 8) circular needles (40cm length) or Double Pointed Needles (DPNs).
*   **Crochet Hook:** 5.0 mm (for casting on/off if preferred).
*   **Tapestry Needle:** For sewing.
*   **Waste Yarn:** A contrasting colour of acrylic yarn (must NOT felt).

**Tension (Gauge):**
*   *Before Felting:* Approx. 14 rows = 10 cm on the knitting machine.
*   *Stitch Count:* Pattern assumes standard 46-pin machine, but works for 40-48 pins.

**Terminology & Abbreviations (UK English):**
*   **st(s):** stitch(es)
*   **k:** knit
*   **p:** purl
*   **k2tog:** knit 2 stitches together (decrease)
*   **MB (Make Bobble):** (K1, yo, k1, yo, k1) into the same stitch, turn, p5, turn, k5, turn, p5, turn, k5, pass 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th stitches over the 1st stitch. (Or use your favourite 5-stitch bobble method).
*   **RS:** Right Side

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## Instructions

### Part 1: The Machine Knit Base (Main Colour)

We will knit a long tube and fold it in half to create a double-thick fabric. This ensures the container stands upright after felting.

1.  **Cast On:** Using waste yarn, cast on and crank 5-10 rows.
2.  **Change to Main Colour (White):** Reset your row counter to 0. Insert the roving wool.
3.  **Crank the Tube:** Knit **80 rows**.
    *   *Math:* 80 rows ÷ 1.4 rows/cm ≈ 57 cm total length.
4.  **Cast Off:** Cut the Main Colour leaving a 50 cm tail. Change back to waste yarn and crank 5-10 rows. Release the work from the machine.

### Part 2: Assembly & Hand Knitting (Contrast Colour)

1.  **Form the Double Layer:**
    *   Stretch the tube lengthwise to smooth stitches.
    *   Fold the bottom half of the tube up *inside* the top half. You should now have a double-thick tube with waste yarn at both ends meeting at the top.
    *   Align the stitches from the inner layer with the stitches of the outer layer.

2.  **Pick Up Stitches:**
    *   Using your 5.0 mm hand knitting needles and the **Contrast Colour**, insert the needle through the first loop of the outer layer AND the corresponding loop of the inner layer.
    *   Knit these two loops together with the Contrast Colour.
    *   Repeat around the circumference until all stitches are on your needles.
    *   Remove the waste yarn carefully.
    *   *Count Check:* You should have the same number of stitches as your machine pins (e.g., 46 sts).

3.  **The Bobble Collar:**
    *   **Round 1 (Setup):** Knit all stitches. *Adjustment:* If your stitch count is not divisible by 4, k2tog evenly across this round to reach the nearest multiple of 4.
        *   *[Example for 46-pin Addi: k2tog twice in this round. 46 - 2 = 44 sts. (44 is divisible by 4).]*
    *   **Round 2 (Bobbles):** * k3, MB; rep from * to end of round.
    *   **Round 3:** Knit all stitches tight to secure the bobbles.

4.  **I-Cord Cast Off (Top Rim):**
    This creates a polished, rope-like edge that is very sturdy.
    1.  Cast on 3 stitches onto the **left** needle using the cable cast-on method.
    2.  *k2, k2tog (knit the last I-cord st together with the first body st through the back loop).*
    3.  Slip the 3 stitches just worked back onto the left needle.
    4.  Repeat steps 2-3 until all body stitches are bound off.
    5.  Bind off the remaining 3 I-cord stitches and sew the start and end of the I-cord together neatly.

### Part 3: Finishing the Bottom

1.  Turn the container inside out (so the "inside" of the bottom is facing you).
2.  Locate the tail from the start of the machine knitting (the fold).
3.  Thread it onto a tapestry needle.
4.  Weave through the edge stitches of the folded bottom and pull tight to cinch the hole closed.
5.  Secure firmly with a knot. Because this is felted, the bottom doesn't need to be perfectly flat; the felting process will round it out, and you can shape it while wet.

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## Part 4: Felting Process

**WARNING:** Felting is irreversible. Proceed with care.

1.  **Preparation:** Place the container inside a zippered pillowcase or laundry bag to catch loose fibres (roving sheds!). Include a pair of old jeans or tennis balls in the wash to increase agitation.
2.  **Wash Cycle:**
    *   Select a **Hot Wash (60°C)** with a **Cold Rinse**.
    *   Use a small amount of standard detergent.
    *   Set agitation to High/Heavy.
3.  **Check Progress:**
    *   Check the item after 15-20 minutes.
    *   The stitches should disappear, and the fabric should become thick and solid.
    *   If it is still too large or the stitches are visible, run it longer.
4.  **Shaping (Crucial Step):**
    *   Remove from the machine while damp. It will look crumpled.
    *   Stretch and pull the container firmly into shape.
    *   **Mould:** Find a jar, vase, or plastic container that matches your desired 8-inch height and diameter. Cover the mould with a plastic bag.
    *   Insert the mould into your felted container. Smooth the bottom so it stands flat.
5.  **Drying:** Leave to dry completely (this may take 24-48 hours) away from direct heat. Once dry, remove the mould.