purlJam

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# 🐸 FINNLEY THE CHUBBY FROG
### A Knitted Amigurumi Soft Toy

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## ABOUT THIS PATTERN

Meet Finnley — a gloriously round, impossibly cute knitted frog with bulging eyes, a wide happy smile, and the most satisfying chubby belly you've ever squeezed. Worked in the round on double-pointed needles or Magic Loop, with separate pieces seamed together. Perfect for an intermediate knitter ready to tackle a fun, rewarding project.

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## MATERIALS

**Yarn:**
- **Main Color (MC):** Green worsted weight yarn — approx. 200–220 yards (180–200 m)
  *(Suggested: any smooth, tightly plied worsted in bright or medium green)*
- **Contrasting Color (CC):** Cream or off-white worsted weight yarn — approx. 25 yards (23 m)
- **Optional (A):** 1–2 yards of black or dark green worsted for nostril French knots
- **Optional (B):** 1 yard of pink embroidery floss or yarn for smile

**Needles:**
- US 6 / 4.0 mm double-pointed needles (DPNs), set of 5
  *OR* US 6 / 4.0 mm, 32–40 inch (80–100 cm) circular needle for Magic Loop

**Notions:**
- Two 12 mm black safety eyes
- Polyester fiberfill stuffing
- Stitch markers (at least 1 locking, 2 regular)
- Tapestry needle
- Scissors
- Stitch holder or waste yarn

> **⚠️ SAFETY NOTE:** This toy is intended for ages 3+. For children under 3, omit safety eyes and embroider the eyes with yarn instead.

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## GAUGE

**20 sts × 28 rounds = 4 inches (10 cm)** in Stockinette Stitch worked in the round, after blocking.

> **Why a smaller needle?** Amigurumi fabric should be firm and tight so stuffing doesn't peek through. If you can see gaps in your fabric, go down a needle size.

*Take time to check your gauge. Your finished toy size will vary if gauge differs.*

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## FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

| Dimension | Measurement |
|---|---|
| Total assembled height | approx. 6 inches (15 cm) |
| Body width (stuffed) | approx. 3–3.5 inches (7.5–9 cm) |
| Head width (stuffed) | approx. 3.5 inches (9 cm) |

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## ABBREVIATIONS

| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| CO | Cast on |
| BO | Bind off |
| k | Knit |
| p | Purl |
| kfb | Knit into front and back of stitch (increase — 1 st becomes 2) |
| k2tog | Knit 2 stitches together (decrease — 2 sts become 1) |
| pm | Place marker |
| sm | Slip marker |
| BOR | Beginning of round |
| st(s) | Stitch(es) |
| rnd(s) | Round(s) |
| RS | Right side |
| WS | Wrong side |
| MC | Main Color (green) |
| CC | Contrasting Color (cream/white) |
| approx. | Approximately |
| [ ] × | Repeat bracketed instructions the number of times indicated |

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## TECHNIQUES USED

- **Knitting in the round** on DPNs or Magic Loop
- **kfb increases** (no visible hole — ideal for amigurumi)
- **k2tog decreases**
- **Magic cast-on** (recommended) or Emily Ocker's circular cast-on for closed bottom
- **Seaming** with mattress stitch or ladder stitch
- **Embroidery** for facial features

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## PATTERN NOTES

1. All pieces except the Belly Patch and Feet are worked **in the round** in **Stockinette Stitch** (knit every round).
2. Use the **Magic Cast-On** or **Emily Ocker's Circular Cast-On** to start pieces with a closed bottom — this avoids a hole at the beginning.
3. **Alternatively**, CO 6 sts onto 3 DPNs (2 sts per needle), join, and use the tail to cinch the center closed after completing the piece.
4. **Stuff as you go:** For the Body and Head, begin stuffing when you have decreased to approximately 24 sts and continue until the piece is firmly plump before closing.
5. Stitch counts are shown in **(parentheses)** at the end of each round for easy checking.
6. The **right side (RS)** of Stockinette is the smooth (knit) side — this is the outside of the toy.

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## PIECES TO KNIT

### PIECE 1 — BODY (Make 1) | MC

The Body is worked from the bottom up, increasing to a chubby orb shape, then decreasing back to close.

**CO 6 sts** using Magic Cast-On. Distribute evenly across DPNs (or use Magic Loop). Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist. Pm for BOR.

**Rnd 1:** [kfb] 6 times. **(12 sts)**

**Rnd 2:** [k1, kfb] 6 times. **(18 sts)**

**Rnd 3:** [k2, kfb] 6 times. **(24 sts)**

**Rnd 4:** [k3, kfb] 6 times. **(30 sts)**

**Rnd 5:** [k4, kfb] 6 times. **(36 sts)**

**Rnd 6:** [k5, kfb] 6 times. **(42 sts)**

**Rnd 7:** [k6, kfb] 6 times. **(48 sts)**

> ✅ *Check: You should have 48 sts total after Rnd 7.*

**Rnds 8–16 (9 rounds):** Knit all sts. **(48 sts)**

> *These even rounds create the round, chubby midsection. Don't rush them — they are what makes Finnley so gloriously plump!*

**Rnd 17:** [k6, k2tog] 6 times. **(42 sts)**

**Rnd 18:** [k5, k2tog] 6 times. **(36 sts)**

**Rnd 19:** [k4, k2tog] 6 times. **(30 sts)**

**Rnd 20:** [k3, k2tog] 6 times. **(24 sts)**

> 🧶 *STUFF NOW: Begin filling the Body firmly with fiberfill. The Body should feel solid and round. Continue stuffing in small pieces as you work the remaining decrease rounds.*

**Rnd 21:** [k2, k2tog] 6 times. **(18 sts)**

**Rnd 22:** [k1, k2tog] 6 times. **(12 sts)**

**Rnd 23:** [k2tog] 6 times. **(6 sts)**

Cut yarn, leaving a 6-inch (15 cm) tail. Thread tail onto tapestry needle and draw through all 6 remaining sts. Pull snug to close. Weave in end securely on the inside.

> ✅ *Total rounds: 23. Final shape should be a firm, round ball approximately 3–3.5 inches (7.5–9 cm) in diameter.*

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### PIECE 2 — HEAD (Make 1) | MC

The Head is slightly wider and flatter than the Body — very frog-like! Worked the same way as the Body but with one extra increase round and fewer even rounds.

**CO 6 sts.** Join to work in the round. Pm for BOR.

**Rnd 1:** [kfb] 6 times. **(12 sts)**

**Rnd 2:** [k1, kfb] 6 times. **(18 sts)**

**Rnd 3:** [k2, kfb] 6 times. **(24 sts)**

**Rnd 4:** [k3, kfb] 6 times. **(30 sts)**

**Rnd 5:** [k4, kfb] 6 times. **(36 sts)**

**Rnd 6:** [k5, kfb] 6 times. **(42 sts)**

**Rnd 7:** [k6, kfb] 6 times. **(48 sts)**

**Rnd 8:** [k7, kfb] 6 times. **(54 sts)**

> ✅ *Check: You should have 54 sts total after Rnd 8.*

**Rnds 9–12 (4 rounds):** Knit all sts. **(54 sts)**

> *Fewer even rounds than the Body keeps the head rounder and slightly flatter — that classic wide frog silhouette.*

**Rnd 13:** [k7, k2tog] 6 times. **(48 sts)**

**Rnd 14:** [k6, k2tog] 6 times. **(42 sts)**

**Rnd 15:** [k5, k2tog] 6 times. **(36 sts)**

> 🧶 *STUFF NOW: Begin stuffing the Head firmly. Leave the top slightly less packed — you will be attaching Eye Bumps here and need the fabric to be smooth.*

**Rnd 16:** [k4, k2tog] 6 times. **(30 sts)**

**Rnd 17:** [k3, k2tog] 6 times. **(24 sts)**

**Rnd 18:** [k2, k2tog] 6 times. **(18 sts)**

**Rnd 19:** [k1, k2tog] 6 times. **(12 sts)**

**Rnd 20:** [k2tog] 6 times. **(6 sts)**

Cut yarn, leaving a 12-inch (30 cm) tail for seaming. Thread tail onto tapestry needle and draw through remaining 6 sts. Pull snug but **do not close all the way** — leave a small opening if you need to add more stuffing before attaching to Body. Weave in starting tail on inside.

> ✅ *Total rounds: 20. Finished head should be approximately 3–3.5 inches (7.5–9 cm) wide and slightly flatter/wider than the Body.*

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### PIECE 3 — EYE BUMPS (Make 2) | MC

These are the signature feature of Finnley! Two small stuffed balls that sit on top of the Head, giving him that wonderful bulging-eyed frog look.

**CO 6 sts.** Join to work in the round. Pm for BOR.

**Rnd 1:** [kfb] 6 times. **(12 sts)**

**Rnd 2:** [k1, kfb] 6 times. **(18 sts)**

**Rnds 3–5 (3 rounds):** Knit all sts. **(18 sts)**

> *Now is the time to insert the safety eye before closing. This is much easier to do while the piece is still open!*

**Rnd 6:** [k1, k2tog] 6 times. **(12 sts)**

> 🔩 *SAFETY EYE: Insert one 12 mm safety eye through the center of the bump, pushing the post through to the inside. Attach the washer on the inside firmly. The eye should sit centered on the front of the bump.*

> 🧶 *STUFF: Lightly stuff the Eye Bump with fiberfill — firm but not bursting.*

**Rnd 7:** [k2tog] 6 times. **(6 sts)**

Cut yarn, leaving a 10-inch (25 cm) tail for attachment. Thread through remaining 6 sts and pull snug to close. **Do not weave in this tail** — use it to sew the Eye Bump to the top of the Head.

> ✅ *Make 2 identical Eye Bumps. Each will be approximately 1 inch (2.5 cm) in diameter.*

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### PIECE 4 — FRONT LEGS / ARMS (Make 2) | MC

Finnley's front legs are short, chubby tubes — just the right size for waving hello!

**CO 10 sts.** Distribute across DPNs. Join to work in the round. Pm for BOR.

**Rnds 1–3 (3 rounds):** Knit all sts. **(10 sts)**

> *The first 3 rounds form the slightly wider "hand" area at the end of the leg.*

**Rnd 4:** [k3, k2tog] 2 times. **(8 sts)**

**Rnds 5–14 (10 rounds):** Knit all sts. **(8 sts)**

> ✅ *Check: 14 rounds total. The tube should be approximately 2 inches (5 cm) long.*

Stuff lightly — front legs should be soft and poseable, not rock-hard. Cut yarn, leaving a 10-inch (25 cm) tail. Thread through all 8 sts, pull gently to gather, but do not close completely — the gathered end is the top of the arm where it will be attached to the Body.

> 💡 *Tip: Stuff only the bottom two-thirds of the leg — leave the top third unstuffed so it seams flat and smooth against the Body.*

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### PIECE 5 — BACK LEGS (Make 2) | MC

The back legs are wider and longer than the front, giving Finnley his classic frog silhouette.

**CO 16 sts.** Distribute across DPNs. Join to work in the round. Pm for BOR.

**Rnds 1–14 (14 rounds):** Knit all sts. **(16 sts)**

> ✅ *Check: 14 rounds of even knitting. Tube should be approximately 2 inches (5 cm) long.*

**Rnd 15:** [k6, k2tog] 2 times. **(14 sts)**

**Rnd 16:** [k5, k2tog] 2 times. **(12 sts)**

> 🧶 *STUFF: Stuff the back leg firmly — these should feel solid since they support the sitting frog shape.*

Cut yarn, leaving a 10-inch (25 cm) tail. Thread through all 12 sts, pull to gather closed (or leave slightly open to attach the Foot first — see Assembly).

> 💡 *Tip: Stuff back legs more firmly than front legs. They will be bent at an angle when sewn to the Body to create that signature frog squat position.*

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### PIECE 6 — FEET (Make 2) | MC

These small, slightly oval flat pieces are sewn to the bottom/end of each Back Leg. The tapered shape gives a hint of webbed frog feet!

*Worked flat (back and forth), not in the round.*

**CO 3 sts.**

**Row 1 (WS):** Purl.

**Row 2 (RS):** kfb, k1, kfb. **(5 sts)**

**Row 3 (WS):** Purl.

**Row 4 (RS):** kfb, k3, kfb. **(7 sts)**

**Row 5 (WS):** Purl.

**Row 6 (RS):** kfb, k5, kfb. **(9 sts)**

**Rows 7–11 (5 rows):** Work in Stockinette Stitch (knit RS rows, purl WS rows). **(9 sts)**

**BO** all sts on RS (knit-wise).

> ✅ *Check: 11 rows total, ending with 9 sts bound off. Foot piece should be approx. 1 inch (2.5 cm) wide × 1.5 inches (4 cm) long. Make 2.*

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### PIECE 7 — BELLY PATCH (Make 1) | CC

This oval cream patch is sewn to the front of the Body for that classic frog belly look.

*Worked flat (back and forth).*

**CO 6 sts** in CC.

**Rows 1–2:** Knit (Garter Stitch). **(6 sts)**

**Row 3 (RS):** kfb, k4, kfb. **(8 sts)**

**Row 4 (WS):** Purl.

**Row 5 (RS):** kfb, k6, kfb. **(10 sts)**

> ✅ *Check: 10 sts after Row 5.*

**Rows 6–11 (6 rows):** Work in Stockinette Stitch. **(10 sts)**

**Row 12 (RS):** k2tog, k6, k2tog. **(8 sts)**

**Row 13 (WS):** Purl.

**Row 14 (RS):** k2tog, k4, k2tog. **(6 sts)**

**Rows 15–16:** Knit (Garter Stitch). **(6 sts)**

**BO** all sts.

> ✅ *Check: 16 rows total. Belly patch should be approx. 2 inches (5 cm) wide at the widest and 3 inches (7.5 cm) long. The garter rows at each end create gentle rolled edges that lie flat when sewn.*

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## ASSEMBLY

*Use a tapestry needle and matching yarn for all seaming. Use mattress stitch for seaming tubes to surfaces and ladder stitch for closing gaps invisibly.*

### STEP 1 — ATTACH BELLY PATCH TO BODY

1. Identify the **front** of the Body (any point — frogs are pretty symmetrical!).
2. Center the Belly Patch on the front of the Body, with the cast-on edge toward the bottom of the Body.
3. Using CC yarn and a tapestry needle, sew the Belly Patch to the Body using small whip stitches around the entire perimeter. Pull snugly but not so tight that the Body puckers.

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### STEP 2 — JOIN FEET TO BACK LEGS

1. Before closing the Back Legs completely, pin one Foot to the bound-off end of each Back Leg. The wider, bound-off edge of the Foot should extend beyond the leg tube to form the foot.
2. Seam the Foot to the end of the Back Leg, tucking in the leg's gathered end neatly. Sew around securely.

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### STEP 3 — ATTACH BACK LEGS TO BODY

1. Fold the assembled Back Leg (with Foot attached) so the leg bends at a slight angle — approximately 90 degrees — mimicking a frog's sitting posture.
2. Position the open/gathered top of each Back Leg at the lower sides of the Body (roughly at the 4 o'clock and 8 o'clock positions when viewed from the front, below the Belly Patch).
3. Seam the tops of the Back Legs firmly to the Body using ladder stitch. The legs should extend outward and slightly downward, with the Feet pointing forward.

> 💡 *Pin both legs in position before sewing either one — check that Finnley sits flat and balanced before committing to the seam.*

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### STEP 4 — ATTACH FRONT LEGS TO BODY

1. Position the Front Legs on either side of the Body, approximately at the midpoint height (level with the widest part), above the Back Legs.
2. The gathered/open tops of the Front Legs should be flush against the Body sides.
3. Seam firmly using ladder stitch. The Front Legs should hang down and slightly forward, as if Finnley is resting with his hands in front of him.

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### STEP 5 — ATTACH HEAD TO BODY

1. If the Head is not fully closed, add any remaining stuffing now until it is firm and satisfying.
2. Close the Head completely: thread the tail through remaining sts and pull snug.
3. Flatten the bottom of the Head slightly to create a wider contact surface with the Body top.
4. Place the Head on top of the Body, centered. The Head should overhang the Body slightly on all sides (the Head is wider than the Body top — this is correct!).
5. Using MC yarn and a tapestry needle, seam the Head to the Body using ladder stitch all the way around the join. Work a second pass around for extra security — the Head-Body join takes the most stress.

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### STEP 6 — ATTACH EYE BUMPS TO HEAD

1. Position the two Eye Bumps on the **top** of the Head, one on each side of center, slightly forward of center. They should be approximately 1 inch (2.5 cm) apart (center to center).
2. Make sure the safety eyes face forward and slightly outward — this creates that endearing wide-eyed frog expression.
3. Using the long tails left on each Eye Bump, sew each bump to the top of the Head using whip stitch around the entire base. Tuck the tail ends inside the head before fully closing.

> 💡 *The Eye Bumps should sit proud and round on top of the Head — resist the urge to push them down flat. High, round bumps = classic frog eyes!*

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## FINISHING — FACE

### Embroidered Smile

Using pink embroidery floss (or a small length of pink/red yarn), embroider a wide, curved smile on the front of the Head, centered below the Eye Bumps.

**Method:**
1. Thread your needle and bring it up through the Head at the left corner of the smile position (approximately 1 inch / 2.5 cm below and between the Eye Bumps, at about the 9 o'clock position).
2. Take a long diagonal stitch to the right corner (approximately 9 o'clock to 3 o'clock, curving downward).
3. To create a curved smile, bring the needle back up slightly below the center of the long stitch and take a small anchoring stitch over it to bow it downward into a smile shape.
4. Alternatively, work 5–7 straight stitches radiating in a slight arc to build up a solid, cheerful mouth.

### Nostrils (Optional)

Using black yarn or dark embroidery floss, place two small French knots on the top/front of the Head, between the Eye Bumps and slightly above the smile — approximately 0.5 inch (1.25 cm) apart.

> 💡 *Use a locking stitch marker to pin the placement of all facial features before committing — step back and look at Finnley from a few feet away to make sure the proportions feel right!*

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## FINISHING — WEAVING IN ENDS

Weave all remaining yarn ends securely to the inside of each piece. Trim close. Give Finnley a gentle squeeze and reshape him as needed.

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## SCHEMATIC

```
         ┌─────────────────┐
      ╭──┤  EYE   EYE     ├──╮
      │  │   ○       ○    │  │
      │  │     HEAD        │  │
      │  └────────┬────────┘  │
      │           │           │
   ARM│   ┌───────┴───────┐   │ARM
    ╮ │   │               │ ╭ │
    ╰─┤   │     BODY      ├─╯ │
      │   │  ┌─────────┐  │   │
      │   │  │  BELLY  │  │   │
      │   └──┬─────────┬──┘   │
      │      │         │      │
      │   LEG│         │LEG   │
      │     ╱           ╲     │
      │    ╱             ╲    │
      │  FOOT           FOOT  │
```

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## FINISHED TOY — SUMMARY MEASUREMENTS

| Piece | Approx. Stuffed Size |
|---|---|
| Body | 3–3.5 in (7.5–9 cm) wide × 3 in (7.5 cm) tall |
| Head | 3.5 in (9 cm) wide × 2.5 in (6 cm) tall |
| Eye Bumps | 1 in (2.5 cm) diameter each |
| Front Legs | 0.75 in (2 cm) wide × 2 in (5 cm) long |
| Back Legs | 1.25 in (3 cm) wide × 2 in (5 cm) long + foot |
| Assembled Total Height | approx. 6 in (15 cm) |

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## YARN ALTERNATIVES

| Yarn | Weight | Fiber | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Lion Brand Heartland | Worsted | Acrylic | Great color range, affordable |
| Paintbox Yarns Simply Aran | Worsted | Acrylic | Clean stitch definition |
| Cascade 220 | Worsted | Wool | Beautiful stitch definition; hand-wash only |
| Paintbox Yarns Wool Mix Aran | Worsted | Wool blend | Soft and washable |

> **If substituting yarn:** Choose a worsted weight yarn with good stitch definition — avoid overly fuzzy or fluffy yarns, as they will obscure your beautiful shaping. Check your gauge — adjust needle size as needed.

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## TROUBLESHOOTING

| Problem | Solution |
|---|---|
| Stuffing shows through fabric | Go down one needle size; ensure stitches are snug |
| Head looks too round, not flat enough | Reduce even rounds from 4 to 2 in Head section |
| Eye Bumps falling flat | Ensure they are firmly stuffed before closing; the base should be flat for sewing |
| Frog won't sit upright | Reposition back legs slightly further back and outward |
| Seams visible | Use ladder stitch for invisible joins; work with a sharp tapestry needle |

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*Pattern designed for personal use and handmade gift-giving. Please do not reproduce for commercial sale without permission.*

*Happy Knitting! 🐸*

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**Pattern Version:** 1.0 | **Difficulty:** Intermediate | **Yarn Weight:** Worsted