purlJam

<pattern>

# FISHERMAN'S RIB DROP SHOULDER PULLOVER

**Design**: Classic boxy pullover with boatneck and relaxed drop shoulder silhouette
**Difficulty**: Beginner (simple shaping, repetitive stitch pattern)
**Sizes**: S (M, L, XL, 2XL)

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## FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

- **Bust circumference**: 36 (40, 44, 48, 52)" / 91.5 (101.5, 112, 122, 132) cm
- **Body length**: 24 (25, 26, 27, 28)" / 61 (63.5, 66, 68.5, 71) cm
- **Sleeve length from underarm**: 17 (17.5, 18, 18.5, 19)" / 43 (44.5, 45.5, 47, 48.5) cm

*Intended to be worn with 4-6" (10-15 cm) of positive ease*

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## MATERIALS

**Yarn**: Worsted weight yarn
- **Yardage**: 1100 (1300, 1500, 1700, 1900) yards / 1005 (1190, 1370, 1555, 1735) meters
- *Note*: Fisherman's rib uses approximately 25% more yarn than stockinette stitch

**Needles**: 
- US 8 (5 mm) needles for flat knitting, or size needed to obtain gauge
- US 7 (4.5 mm) needles for ribbing

**Notions**: 
- Tapestry needle for seaming
- Stitch markers
- Measuring tape

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## GAUGE

**17 stitches and 20 rows = 4" (10 cm)** in Fisherman's Rib stitch on larger needles, **after blocking**

*CRITICAL*: Fisherman's rib creates a very stretchy fabric. Measure gauge after blocking and allow fabric to relax naturally. Do not stretch when measuring.

**Gauge Swatch**: Cast on 25 sts. Work in Fisherman's Rib for 5". Bind off loosely. Block, let dry, and measure the center 4" square.

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## STITCH PATTERNS

### 2x2 Rib (multiple of 4 sts + 2)
**Row 1 (RS)**: K2, *p2, k2; repeat from * to end.
**Row 2 (WS)**: P2, *k2, p2; repeat from * to end.
Repeat Rows 1-2 for pattern.

### Fisherman's Rib (odd number of sts)

**Special Technique - K1B (Knit one below)**: Insert right needle into the stitch one row below the next stitch on left needle (not into the stitch itself), and knit this lower stitch, allowing the stitch above to drop off the needle.

**Setup Row (WS)**: Purl all stitches.

**Row 1 (RS)**: K1, *k1b, k1; repeat from * to end.
**Row 2 (WS)**: K1, *p1, k1b; repeat from * to end.

Repeat Rows 1-2 for pattern.

*Pattern Note*: The fabric will look uneven for the first few rows but will develop its characteristic thick, ribbed texture after about 1".

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## PATTERN NOTES

- This pullover is worked flat in pieces (back, front, two sleeves), then seamed.
- Fisherman's rib creates a thick, squishy, reversible fabric with excellent drape.
- The boatneck opening is created by leaving the center stitches unjoined when seaming shoulders.
- Use a loose cast on (long-tail or cable cast on work well) and loose bind off to match the stretch of the fabric.
- When seaming, use mattress stitch and don't pull too tight; the thick fabric needs some ease.

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## INSTRUCTIONS

### BACK

**With smaller needles, cast on** 154 (170, 186, 202, 222) sts.

*Math check: 36" × 4.25 sts/inch = 153, round to 154 (even for rib); 40" × 4.25 = 170; 44" × 4.25 = 187, round to 186; 48" × 4.25 = 204, round to 202; 52" × 4.25 = 221, round to 222*

**Work in 2x2 Rib for 2.5" (6.5 cm)**, ending with a WS row.

*Note*: If your stitch count is not a multiple of 4 + 2, work as: (RS) K1, work 2x2 rib to last st, k1; (WS) P1, work 2x2 rib to last st, p1.

**Change to larger needles.**

**Next Row (WS)**: Work as follows to transition to odd number of stitches:
- Sizes S, L, 2XL: P2tog, purl to end. [153 (185, 221) sts remain]
- Sizes M, XL: Purl all stitches. [170 (202) sts remain - these are already even, so p2tog once to get 169 (201)]

*Corrected transition for fisherman's rib (needs odd number):*
- Size S: P2tog, purl to end. [153 sts]
- Size M: P2tog, purl to end. [169 sts]
- Size L: P2tog, purl to end. [185 sts]
- Size XL: P2tog, purl to end. [201 sts]
- Size 2XL: P2tog, purl to end. [221 sts]

**Begin Fisherman's Rib pattern:**
**Row 1 (RS)**: K1, *k1b, k1; repeat from * to end.
**Row 2 (WS)**: K1, *p1, k1b; repeat from * to end.

**Continue in Fisherman's Rib until piece measures 24 (25, 26, 27, 28)" / 61 (63.5, 66, 68.5, 71) cm** from cast-on edge, ending with a WS row.

*Math check: 24" × 5 rows/inch = 120 rows; 25" × 5 = 125 rows; 26" × 5 = 130 rows; 27" × 5 = 135 rows; 28" × 5 = 140 rows*

**Bind off all stitches very loosely** in pattern (k the k sts, p the p sts as they appear).

### FRONT

Work exactly as for Back.

### SLEEVES (make 2)

**With smaller needles, cast on** 42 (46, 46, 50, 50) sts.

*Math check for 10" cuff: 10" × 4.25 = 42.5 sts, round to 42 or 46*

**Work in 2x2 Rib for 2.5" (6.5 cm)**, ending with a WS row.

**Change to larger needles.**

**Next Row (WS)**: Work transition to odd number:
- Sizes S, M, L, XL, 2XL: P2tog, purl to end. [41 (45, 45, 49, 49) sts remain]

**Begin Fisherman's Rib pattern AND AT THE SAME TIME begin sleeve shaping:**

**Increase Row (RS)**: K1, M1, work in Fisherman's Rib to last st, M1, k1. [2 sts increased]

*Shaping Note*: When you have enough stitches, work new stitches into fisherman's rib pattern. Until then, work edge stitches in stockinette (knit on RS, purl on WS).

**Repeat Increase Row every 10 (8, 8, 8, 6) rows 10 (12, 14, 15, 18) times more**. [63 (71, 75, 81, 87) sts]

*Math check: 
- Size S: 41 + (11 increases × 2) = 63 sts ✓; 63 sts ÷ 4.25 = 14.8" upper arm ✓
- Size M: 45 + (12 × 2) = 69... need 71 sts for 16.7" upper arm. Revised: 45 + (13 × 2) = 71 sts
- Size L: 45 + (15 × 2) = 75 sts; 75 ÷ 4.25 = 17.6" ✓
- Size XL: 49 + (16 × 2) = 81 sts; 81 ÷ 4.25 = 19" ✓
- Size 2XL: 49 + (19 × 2) = 87 sts; 87 ÷ 4.25 = 20.5" ✓*

*Corrected increase schedule:*
**Repeat Increase Row every 10 (8, 8, 6, 6) rows 10 (13, 15, 16, 19) times more**. [63 (71, 75, 81, 87) sts]

**Continue even in Fisherman's Rib until sleeve measures 17 (17.5, 18, 18.5, 19)" / 43 (44.5, 45.5, 47, 48.5) cm** from cast-on edge, ending with a WS row.

**Bind off all stitches very loosely** in pattern.

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## FINISHING

### BLOCKING

Block all pieces to measurements, being careful not to overstretch the fisherman's rib fabric. Pin pieces flat, spritz with water, and allow to dry completely.

### SEAMING

**Join Shoulders**:
Place Front and Back together with RS facing each other.

**For each shoulder**: 
- Seam the outer 46 (52, 57, 63, 69) sts on each side, leaving the center 61 (65, 71, 75, 83) sts open for neck.

*Math check:
- Size S: (153 - 61) ÷ 2 = 46 sts per shoulder ✓
- Size M: (169 - 65) ÷ 2 = 52 sts ✓
- Size L: (185 - 71) ÷ 2 = 57 sts ✓
- Size XL: (201 - 75) ÷ 2 = 63 sts ✓
- Size 2XL: (221 - 83) ÷ 2 = 69 sts ✓*

*Neck opening: 61 sts ÷ 4.25 = 14.4"; 65 sts = 15.3"; 71 sts = 16.7"; 75 sts = 17.6"; 83 sts = 19.5"*

**Attach Sleeves**:
- Mark the center of the sleeve bound-off edge.
- Align this center point with the shoulder seam.
- Pin sleeve to body, easing to fit. The armhole depth is 9 (9.5, 10, 10.5, 11)".
- Seam sleeve to body using mattress stitch.

**Side and Sleeve Seams**:
Seam the side edges of Front and Back together from hem to armhole, then continue seaming sleeve from armhole to cuff