GTA 6 Balaclava

Fitted single-opening ribbed-neck hood

A close-fitting adult balaclava in hot pink aran yarn, worked from the neck upward. A snug 2×2 rib collar sits over the base of the neck, a smooth stocking-stitch hood follows the head, and a single rectangular face opening runs from chin to brow. The opening is gently shaped — narrower along the chin, a little wider at the brow — and finished with a picked-up 1×1 rib frame. The crown is closed with a three-needle cast-off from the centre of the brow to the centre back, so there is no spiral decrease and no sewn seam unless you prefer one.

The hood is stocking stitch on purpose: it fits smoothly, and the face opening can be shaped to an exact stitch count. The ribbed neck and ribbed face frame are the ribbed finish of the design.

Difficulty: Intermediate
Construction: Bottom-up; neck and crown in the round; face opening worked flat; edging picked up.

Sizes

S (M, L)

To fit head circumference 54 (56, 58) cm [21¼ (22, 22¾) in], measured level around the forehead and the widest part of the back of the head.

Choose the size nearest your head measurement. The hood has about 4 cm of negative ease; the rib collar is sized to spring back against the base of the neck after it has been stretched over the head.

Finished measurements

Measurements are of the knitted fabric at the stated tension, after a gentle block. The opening figures are the hole before the face edging is added. The 1×1 frame covers about 1 cm of fabric on every side, so the visible aperture is about 2 cm narrower and 2 cm shorter than the figures below.

Materials

Yarn: Aran weight (UK aran / US worsted), wool or wool blend strongly preferred so the rib recovers. Designed in hot pink; any saturated pink gives the same look, and any other colour works just as well.

230 (260, 290) m [250 (285, 315) yds].
Two 100 g skeins of a standard aran yielding about 160–200 m per skein will cover every size, including the tension swatch.

Needles:

• 4.5 mm (UK 7) circular needle, 40 cm, for the neck — or double-pointed needles, or a longer circular for magic loop
• 5.0 mm (UK 6) circular needle, 40 cm, for the hood
• 4.0 mm (UK 8) circular needle, 40 cm, for the face edging
• One spare 5.0 mm needle for the three-needle cast-off

Notions: Three stitch markers (one distinct, for the centre back), tapestry needle, row counter optional.

Tension (gauge)

Match both tensions before you begin. The hood circumference and the face opening depend on them.

Stocking stitch on 5.0 mm needles: 18 sts and 24 rows = 10 cm, measured over the centre of a blocked swatch.

2×2 rib on 4.5 mm needles: 22 sts and 30 rounds = 10 cm, measured slightly stretched — open the ribs until the purl columns are clearly visible, but do not yank the fabric. An in-the-round swatch is the most accurate. A flat swatch (every row k2, p2) is acceptable if it is measured the same way.

If your stocking-stitch tension is loose or tight, change needle size. The neck must stay on a needle 0.5 mm smaller than the hood needle.

Abbreviations

Pattern notes

• Figures are given for S (M, L). Work one size only throughout.
• The join at the cast-on is the right-hand corner of the face opening (the wearer’s right, at the chin). Do not move this point. The centre-back marker is placed on Round 1 and stays on the needle until the crown is cast off, including while the opening is worked flat.
• The face opening is a shaped rectangle. The chin cast-off is the short lower edge. One decrease at each side on Row 1 and again on Row 3 slopes the lower corners out. The sides are then straight, and the brow cast-on matches the wider upper width.
• Neck length can be changed in the rib only. Do not add or remove rows between the chin cast-off and the brow cast-on unless you also change the side pick-up (3 stitches for every 4 rows, and an even total).
• The crown seam is meant to sit on the inside. Block it over a bowl so it curves over the head rather than standing square.
• UK terms are used: cast off, tension, stocking stitch, centre.

Instructions

Neck

Using 4.5 mm needles and a stretchy method (German twisted cast-on or a loose long-tail cast-on), cast on 88 (92, 96) sts. Join to work in the round, taking care not to twist. Place a BOR marker at the join. This join is the right-hand chin corner of the face opening.

Round 1: (K2, p2) to end. While working this round, place the centre-back marker after 56 (59, 62) sts.
56 − 12 = 44, and 88 ÷ 2 = 44, so the marker sits opposite the centre of the future chin; likewise 59 − 13 = 46 = 92 ÷ 2, and 62 − 14 = 48 = 96 ÷ 2. ✓
88 ÷ 4 = 22 rib repeats (92 ÷ 4 = 23, 96 ÷ 4 = 24). ✓

Continue in 2×2 rib as set until you have worked 36 rounds, or until the rib measures 12 cm. Do not cast off.

Stretch test (do this after about 10 rounds): the cast-on must pass comfortably over your head. If it will not, rip back and cast on again more loosely, or cast on with a 5.0 mm needle and then change to 4.5 mm. The rib itself is elastic; a tight cast-on is what usually refuses to go on.

Slightly stretched, this collar is 40 (41.8, 43.6) cm. Relaxed, it draws in further and sits against the base of the neck once it has been pulled on.

Hood

Change to 5.0 mm needles.

Increase round (RS):

• Size S: K24, (k16, m1, k16) twice. 90 sts. (88 + 2 = 90 ✓)
• Size M: K26, (k16, m1, k17) twice. 94 sts. (92 + 2 = 94 ✓)
• Size L: K28, (k17, m1, k17) twice. 98 sts. (96 + 2 = 98 ✓)

The first 24 (26, 28) sts are the chin and are not increased. One new stitch sits in the middle of each side of the head. The centre-back marker stays where it is.

Knit 5 further rounds. You now have 6 rounds of stocking stitch, including the increase round: 2.5 cm.

Hood circumference at this tension: 90 ÷ 18 × 10 = 50 cm (94 ÷ 18 × 10 = 52.2 cm, 98 ÷ 18 × 10 = 54.4 cm). ✓

Face opening

The chin cast-off begins at the BOR marker (right-hand chin corner). Keep the centre-back marker on the needle.

Row 1 (RS): Cast off 24 (26, 28) sts, k1, ssk, knit to the last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 64 (66, 68) sts.

Check for S: 90 − 24 = 66, then 66 − 2 = 64.
M: 94 − 26 = 68, then 68 − 2 = 66.
L: 98 − 28 = 70, then 70 − 2 = 68. ✓

Row 2 (WS): Purl.

Row 3 (RS): K1, ssk, knit to the last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 62 (64, 66) sts. (64 − 2 = 62; 66 − 2 = 64; 68 − 2 = 66 ✓)

Row 4 (WS): Purl.

Rows 5–32 (34, 36): Work straight in stocking stitch (knit on RS, purl on WS). The last of these rows is a WS row, which is what you want: the yarn is then at the opening edge, ready to begin a RS round.

The opening should measure 13.3 (14.2, 15) cm from the chin cast-off. At the stated tension, 32 (34, 36) rows give that height (32 ÷ 24 × 10 = 13.3; 34 ÷ 24 × 10 = 14.2; 36 ÷ 24 × 10 = 15.0). ✓

The lower edge is 24 (26, 28) sts wide. The two decrease rows widen it by 4 sts in all, 2 at each corner, over the first 1.5 cm. From there the sides are vertical.

Close the brow and work the crown

Joining round (RS): Cable cast on 28 (30, 32) sts, knit across the cast-on stitches and then across all the body stitches, and join to work in the round. 90 (94, 98) sts.

62 + 28 = 90; 64 + 30 = 94; 66 + 32 = 98. ✓

Give the first and last cast-on stitches a firm tug so the brow corners do not leave a hole. A tiny gap can be closed later with the tail.

As you knit the cast-on stitches, place a marker after 14 (15, 16) of them. That marker is the centre front (the middle of the brow). Leave the centre-back marker in place.

Each side, from centre front to centre back, now holds 45 (47, 49) sts: 31 + 14 = 45; 32 + 15 = 47; 33 + 16 = 49. And 90 ÷ 2 = 45, 94 ÷ 2 = 47, 98 ÷ 2 = 49. ✓

Knit every round until you have worked 28 (30, 32) rounds from the brow cast-on, including the joining round. The crown measures 11.7 (12.5, 13.3) cm above the brow (28 ÷ 24 × 10 = 11.7; 30 ÷ 24 × 10 = 12.5; 32 ÷ 24 × 10 = 13.3). ✓

Total length from the neck cast-on, along the back, is 12 + 2.5 + 13.3 + 11.7 = 39.5 cm for S (12 + 2.5 + 14.2 + 12.5 = 41.2 cm for M; 12 + 2.5 + 15.0 + 13.3 = 42.8 cm for L). ✓

Crown

Turn the work inside out so the right sides are together and the cast-off ridge will sit against the inside of the head.

Slip the 45 (47, 49) sts from the centre-front marker around one side to the centre-back marker onto the spare 5.0 mm needle. Leave the other 45 (47, 49) sts on the working needle. Hold the two needles parallel, right sides together, with the centre-front ends at the tips.

Three-needle cast-off: Insert the third needle (a 5.0 mm needle) knitwise through the first stitch on each needle, knit those 2 stitches together, and slip them off. *Knit the next stitch on each needle together in the same way; pass the first stitch on the right needle over the second. Repeat from * until one stitch remains. Break the yarn and pull it through.

The seam runs from the centre of the brow, over the crown, to the centre back. Do not pull the cast-off tight; it should match the width of the fabric and not gather the crown.

Sewn alternative: Divide the stitches onto two needles exactly as above and mattress-stitch the two halves together with right sides facing, then turn the seam to the inside. The three-needle cast-off is firmer and is the intended finish.

Face edging

Turn the balaclava right side out. With the right side facing and the 4.0 mm needle, pick up and knit stitches around the face opening as follows. Begin at one brow corner and work down a side, across the chin, up the other side, and across the brow.

• Each side: 24 (26, 27) sts, about 3 stitches for every 4 rows. Size S is exactly 32 × 3/4 = 24. Size L is exactly 36 × 3/4 = 27. Size M is 26 over 34 rows, a shade fuller than 3 in 4, which keeps the total even.
• Chin (cast-off edge): 24 (26, 28) sts, one in each cast-off stitch, eased if the chain looks one stitch short.
• Brow (cast-on edge): 28 (30, 32) sts, one in each cast-on stitch.

Total: 100 (108, 114) sts.

S: 24 + 24 + 24 + 28 = 100.
M: 26 + 26 + 26 + 30 = 108.
L: 27 + 27 + 28 + 32 = 114.
All even, so 1×1 rib joins without a jog stitch. ✓

Place a marker and join.

Rounds 1–4: (K1, p1) to end.

Cast off loosely in rib, using a 4.5 mm needle for the cast-off only if your cast-off tends to tighten. A tight cast-off will cinch the face opening. The frame should lie flat and measure about 1 cm deep.

Finishing

Weave in all ends on the wrong side. Use the tail at each brow corner to close any small hole at the cast-on join. The tail from the neck, if you had one at the centre back from a rejoined strand, is woven into the rib.

Block gently to the measurements in the table. Do not stretch the 2×2 rib flat — open it only as far as the slightly-stretched tension. Ease the crown seam over a bowl or hat block so it curves from brow to nape. Pin the face edging so it lies flat as a narrow frame rather than rolling into the opening.

When worn, the cast-on sits at the base of the neck, the opening frames eyes, nose, and mouth, and the crown seam runs over the top of the head on the inside. The visible opening will be about 1 cm smaller on each edge than the fabric hole, because the rib frame covers the edge.

Technique reminders

German twisted cast-on: Work a long-tail cast-on, but bring the yarn on the thumb around the needle by the opposite path from the ordinary long-tail cast-on, so each stitch sits on a twisted base. The edge is elastic enough to pass the ears and still recovers.

Cable cast-on (brow): *Insert the right needle between the first two stitches on the left needle, wrap and draw a loop through, and place that loop on the left needle. Repeat from * until you have the required new stitches. This edge is firm and easy to pick up into.

Picking up the sides: Look at the selvedge. For every 4 rows, pick up 3 stitches — typically under both legs of the edge stitch, skipping every fourth row. Keep the two sides matched.

Three-needle cast-off: Knit together one stitch from each of the two parallel needles, then cast that new stitch off over the previous one, exactly as in an ordinary cast-off. Holding the right sides together puts the ridge on the inside, where it will not press on the scalp.