purlJam

---

# 🎄 HEIRLOOM CHRISTMAS TREE SKIRT
### An Advanced Textured Crochet Pattern

---

## AT A GLANCE

| | |
|---|---|
| **Skill Level** | Advanced |
| **Finished Size** | ~42 inches (107 cm) diameter |
| **Inner Opening** | ~6 inches (15 cm) diameter |
| **Construction** | Worked in the round, center-out, with a straight back opening |
| **Yarn Weight** | Worsted (Category 4) |
| **Hook** | US I/9 / 5.5 mm |
| **Gauge** | 14 dc = 4 inches; 8 rounds = 4 inches in pattern |

---

## MATERIALS

### Yarn
| Color | Label | Yardage | Approx. Weight |
|---|---|---|---|
| **MC** — Forest Green | Worsted, Category 4 | 900 yards | ~300 g |
| **CC1** — Cranberry Red | Worsted, Category 4 | 450 yards | ~150 g |
| **CC2** — Cream White | Worsted, Category 4 | 300 yards | ~100 g |

> **Total:** ~1,650 yards. Suggested yarns: Lion Brand Wool-Ease, Caron Simply Soft, or any smooth worsted that shows stitch definition well. Avoid overly fuzzy yarn — it will obscure the bobble and shell texture.

### Tools & Notions
- US I/9 / 5.5 mm crochet hook
- Locking stitch markers (at least 6)
- Yarn needle for weaving ends
- Scissors
- Rustproof pins and blocking mats
- 1–2 yards of ¼-inch ribbon (optional, for closure)
- Optional: 3–4 small buttons or snaps for back closure

---

## GAUGE

**Make a gauge swatch before beginning.**

Chain 20 with MC.
- **Row 1:** Dc in 4th ch from hook and each ch across. (18 dc)
- **Rows 2–12:** Ch 3, turn, dc across.

Swatch should measure approximately **5 inches wide × 5.5 inches tall** before blocking.

| Measurement | Target |
|---|---|
| 14 dc | = 4 inches |
| 8 rounds in pattern | = 4 inches |

> **Gauge note:** Bobble and shell rounds will be slightly denser than plain dc rounds. Do not tighten your hook on textured rounds. If your swatch is too small, go up to a US J/10 / 6.0 mm hook. If too large, go down to a US H/8 / 5.0 mm hook.

---

## ABBREVIATIONS & STITCH GLOSSARY

| Abbreviation | Full Name | Instructions |
|---|---|---|
| ch | chain | — |
| sl st | slip stitch | — |
| sc | single crochet | — |
| hdc | half double crochet | — |
| dc | double crochet | — |
| tr | treble crochet | — |
| sp | space | — |
| st(s) | stitch(es) | — |
| ch-sp | chain space | — |
| RS | right side | — |
| WS | wrong side | — |
| MC | main color | Forest Green |
| CC1 | contrast color 1 | Cranberry Red |
| CC2 | contrast color 2 | Cream White |
| **Bobble** | 5-dc bobble | Yo, insert hook in st, yo, pull up loop, yo, pull through 2 loops (1 dc incomplete); rep 4 more times in same st (6 loops on hook); yo, pull through all 6 loops. Ch 1 to close (ch-1 does NOT count as st). |
| **Shell** | 5-dc shell | Work (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc) all in same st or sp = 5 dc with ch-1 between each. |
| **Small Shell** | 3-dc shell | Work (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc) all in same st or sp. |
| **Picot** | picot | Ch 3, sl st in first ch made. |
| **bpdc** | back post dc | Yo, insert hook from back to front to back around post of indicated st, yo, pull up loop, complete as dc. |
| **fpdc** | front post dc | Yo, insert hook from front to back to front around post of indicated st, yo, pull up loop, complete as dc. |
| **MR** | magic ring | Adjustable loop start. |
| **pm** | place marker | Place locking stitch marker in indicated st. |

---

## STITCH DIAGRAM LEGEND

```
Symbol    Stitch
────────────────────────────────────────────
   ○      Chain (ch)
   •      Slip stitch (sl st)
   +      Single crochet (sc)
   T      Half double crochet (hdc)
   ╥      Double crochet (dc)
   ╫      Treble crochet (tr)
  [╥╥╥]   Shell (3 or 5 dc in same st/sp)
   ◆      Bobble (5-dc bobble, closed with ch-1)
   ∧      Picot (ch-3 picot)
  ↑bpdc   Back post dc
  ↓fpdc   Front post dc
   →      Direction of work (clockwise in rounds)
```

### Shell Construction Diagram (5-dc Shell)

```
         ╥ ╥ ╥ ╥ ╥        ← 5 dc spread from single base point
          ╲╲ ╲╱ ╱╱
           ╲ V ╱
            ╲╱
             ★             ← single st or ch-sp at base
```

### Bobble Construction Diagram

```
    ╥╥╥╥╥  ← 5 incomplete dc all drawn together at top
     \|||/
      \|/
       ○   ← ch-1 to close
       |
       ★   ← stitch in fabric
```

### Round Layout Schematic (Top View)

```
                    ┌─────────────────────────┐
                    │      BACK OPENING       │
                    │       (gap here)        │
                    └────────┐   ┌────────────┘
                    ╱╱╱╱╱╱╱╱ │   │ ╲╲╲╲╲╲╲╲
                  ╱  BORDER  │   │  BORDER  ╲
                 ╱  (Rounds  │   │  25–28)   ╲
                │  ┌────────────────────┐     │
                │  │  SHELL SECTION     │     │
                │  │  (Rounds 14–24)    │     │
                │  │  ┌──────────────┐  │     │
                │  │  │ BOBBLE BAND  │  │     │
                │  │  │(Rounds 10-13)│  │     │
                │  │  │  ┌────────┐  │  │     │
                │  │  │  │ DC INC │  │  │     │
                │  │  │  │SECTION │  │  │     │
                │  │  │  │(Rds 1-9│  │  │     │
                │  │  │  │        │  │  │     │
                │  │  │  │   MR   │  │  │     │
```

---

## PATTERN NOTES

1. **Back Opening:** The tree skirt is worked in joined rounds, but you will leave a straight back opening by NOT joining at the end of the final round of each section — see specific instructions. The opening is reinforced with a sc border at the end.

2. **Working in Rounds:** Place a stitch marker at the beginning of each round and move it up as you work. The ch-3 at the beginning of dc rounds counts as 1 dc.

3. **Color Changes:** All color changes are made at the slip stitch join at the end of a round. Cut yarn and fasten off, or carry yarn loosely up the back opening edge when changing colors to reduce ends.

4. **Flat Circle Math:** To keep the circle flat, you must add approximately 12 stitches every round in the plain dc sections (this is 2× the standard increase of 6/round, because we are working in dc, not sc). In pattern sections, increases are built into shell and bobble placements.

5. **Stitch Counts:** Stitch counts at the end of each round are given in [brackets]. These are critical checkpoints — count your stitches!

6. **Reading the Pattern:** All rounds are worked with the RS facing unless noted. The back opening means rounds are not truly "in the round" in the final sections — see instructions.

---

## CONSTRUCTION OVERVIEW

| Section | Rounds | Purpose | Color |
|---|---|---|---|
| Center Foundation | 1–3 | Establish flat circle | MC |
| DC Increase Section | 4–9 | Build diameter to ~15 in | MC |
| Bobble Band | 10–13 | First texture feature | CC1 / MC |
| Shell Transition | 14–15 | Prepare for shell section | MC |
| Shell Section | 16–24 | Main decorative body | MC / CC2 |
| Outer Border | 25–28 | Scallop + picot edge | CC1 / CC2 |
| Back Opening Edging | — | Neaten opening | CC1 |

---

## PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS

### SECTION 1: CENTER FOUNDATION (Rounds 1–3)

**With MC, make a Magic Ring (MR).**

**Round 1 (RS):**
Ch 3 (counts as dc), work 11 dc into MR, pull ring closed snugly. Sl st to top of ch-3 to join. **[12 dc]**

> 📍 *Place a stitch marker in the sl st join. Move marker up each round.*

**Round 2:**
Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in same st, *2 dc in next st; rep from * around. Sl st to top of ch-3 to join. **[24 dc]**

> ✅ *Check: You should have 24 stitches. The circle should measure approximately 2.5 inches across.*

**Round 3:**
Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in same st, dc in next st, *2 dc in next st, dc in next st; rep from * around. Sl st to top of ch-3 to join. **[36 dc]**

> ✅ *Circle should now measure approximately 4 inches across.*

---

### SECTION 2: DC INCREASE SECTION (Rounds 4–9)

Each round adds **12 dc** evenly distributed.

**Formula:** Work (2 dc in 1 st, then X dc straight) across, where X increases by 1 each round.

---

**Round 4:**
Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in same st, dc in next 2 sts, *2 dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts; rep from * around. Sl st to top of ch-3 to join. **[48 dc]**

**Round 5:**
Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in same st, dc in next 3 sts, *2 dc in next st, dc in next 3 sts; rep from * around. Sl st to top of ch-3 to join. **[60 dc]**

**Round 6:**
Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in same st, dc in next 4 sts, *2 dc in next st, dc in next 4 sts; rep from * around. Sl st to top of ch-3 to join. **[72 dc]**

**Round 7:**
Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in same st, dc in next 5 sts, *2 dc in next st, dc in next 5 sts; rep from * around. Sl st to top of ch-3 to join. **[84 dc]**

**Round 8:**
Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in same st, dc in next 6 sts, *2 dc in next st, dc in next 6 sts; rep from * around. Sl st to top of ch-3 to join. **[96 dc]**

**Round 9:**
Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in same st, dc in next 7 sts, *2 dc in next st, dc in next 7 sts; rep from * around. Sl st to top of ch-3 to join. **[108 dc]**

> ✅ *Circle should measure approximately 12–13 inches across. Count 108 sts before proceeding.*

---

### SECTION 3: BOBBLE BAND (Rounds 10–13)

> **Color note:** Drop MC at end of Round 9. Join CC1 (Cranberry Red) with sl st in same join st.

**Round 10 (CC1 — Bobble Round):**

Ch 3 (counts as dc here), dc in same st [increase made], *Bobble in next st, dc in next 2 sts; rep from * to last 2 sts before end, Bobble in next st, dc in last st. Sl st to top of ch-3 to join. **[108 sts: 36 bobbles + 72 dc + 12 extra dc from increases = 120 sts total]**

> **Wait — let's be precise:**
> Round 10 increases from 108 to 120.
> Pattern: (2 dc in 1 st, Bobble in next st, dc in next st) × 36 times = 36 × 3 pattern units.
> 36 × 3 = 108 ✅. Each unit adds 1 extra dc for the increase.
> Final count: 36 bobbles + 36 pairs of dc + 36 single dc = **36 bobbles + 84 dc = 120 sts**

**Revised Round 10 (CC1):**
Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in same st, Bobble in next st, dc in next st, *2 dc in next st, Bobble in next st, dc in next st; rep from * around. Sl st to top of ch-3 to join. **[120 sts: 36 Bobbles + 84 dc]**

> 📍 *Bobbles will pop to the RS. If they pop toward you (WS), push them through to the RS with your fingers.*

> ✅ *Count: 36 bobbles evenly spaced. 36 × (2 dc + bobble + dc) = 36 × 4 = 144? Recount:*
>
> Each repeat: 2 dc (increase) + 1 bobble + 1 dc = 4 sts used from below, 4 sts added above → 36 × (1 extra from increase) = 36 extra sts. 108 + 12 = 120 ✅

**Round 11 (MC — Relief Round):**
Fasten off CC1. Join MC.
Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in next st, *ch 1, skip Bobble st, dc in next 2 dc; rep from * to last Bobble, ch 1, skip Bobble. Sl st to top of ch-3 to join. **[84 dc + 36 ch-1 sps = 120 sts across top]**

> *Skipping over each bobble with a ch-1 space creates a clean relief line and keeps the bobbles prominent.*

**Round 12 (CC1 — Second Bobble Round):**
Join CC1.
Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in same st, dc in ch-1 sp, *Bobble in next dc, dc in next dc, 2 dc in ch-1 sp; rep from * around to last 2 pattern units, Bobble in next dc, dc in next dc, dc in ch-1 sp. Sl st to top of ch-3 to join. **[132 sts: 36 Bobbles + 96 dc]**

> ✅ *Increase check: 120 → +12 = 132 sts. Each 36 ch-1 sp becomes 2 dc (adds 1 dc per sp), +36 for the extra dc in the increase = 12 net new stitches across the round. 120 + 12 = 132 ✅*

**Round 13 (MC — Transition Round):**
Fasten off CC1. Join MC.
Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in each st and in each ch-1 sp around, working 2 dc in every 11th st (increase evenly 12 times). Sl st to top of ch-3 to join. **[144 dc]**

> ✅ *132 + 12 = 144. 144 ÷ 12 = 12 sections of 12 sts each. Work: dc in 10 sts, 2 dc in 11th st, repeat 12 times. 12 × 11 = 132 base sts used + 12 increases = 144 ✅*

> 📍 *Circle should measure approximately 16–17 inches across.*

---

### SECTION 4: SHELL TRANSITION (Rounds 14–15)

> **Important:** Shell pattern is based on a **multiple of 6 stitches.** 144 ÷ 6 = 24 shells. ✅

**Round 14 (MC — Shell Setup):**
Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), *skip 2 sts, dc in next st, ch 1, skip 2 sts, dc in next st, ch 1; rep from * around, skip 2 sts, dc in next st, ch 1. Sl st to 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join. **[48 dc + 48 ch-1 sps]**

> *This creates the mesh foundation for shells.*

**Round 15 (CC2 — Shell Foundation):**
Fasten off MC. Join CC2 in any ch-1 sp.
Ch 3 (counts as dc), (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc) in same ch-1 sp [Small Shell made], *sc in next dc, Small Shell in next ch-1 sp; rep from * around, sc in next dc. Sl st to top of ch-3 to join. **[48 Small Shells + 48 sc = 48 pattern repeats]**

> ✅ *Wait — re-examine. Round 14 has 96 "positions" alternating dc and ch-1. There are 48 ch-1 sps total. Small Shell in each ch-1 sp (48 shells), sc in each dc post (48 sc). 48 + 48 = 96 units. ✅*

---

### SECTION 5: SHELL SECTION (Rounds 16–24)

The shell section is where this pattern truly shines. Each round, shells grow and multiply, creating a beautiful fan texture. Color striping in this section creates a festive look.

**Color Sequence for Rounds 16–24:**
- Rounds 16–17: MC (Forest Green)
- Round 18: CC2 (Cream White)
- Rounds 19–20: MC
- Round 21: CC1 (Cranberry Red)
- Rounds 22–23: MC
- Round 24: CC2

---

**Round 16 (MC):**
Sl st to center ch-sp of first Small Shell (the middle dc). Ch 3 (counts as dc), (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc) in same sp [Full 5-dc Shell made], *ch 1, sc in sc between shells, ch 1, Shell in center of next Small Shell; rep from * around, ch 1, sc in last sc, ch 1. Sl st to top of ch-3 to join. **[48 Shells + 48 sc + 96 ch-1 sps]**

> *You are now working Full Shells (5 dc) into the center of each Small Shell from the previous round.*

**Round 17 (MC):**
Sl st across to 3rd ch-sp of Shell (center ch-sp). Ch 3 (counts as dc), (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc) in same sp, *ch 1, sc in sc, ch 1, Shell in center of next Shell; rep from * around, ch 1, sc, ch 1. Sl st to top of ch-3 to join. **[48 Shells + 48 sc + 96 ch-1 sps]**

> *Stitch count stays the same as we expand without adding new shells yet. The shells are growing taller and will spread more with each round.*

> 📍 *Circle should measure approximately 22–23 inches across at end of Round 17.*

**Round 18 (CC2 — Contrast Shell Round):**
Join CC2 in center ch-sp of any Shell.
Same as Round 17. **[48 Shells + 48 sc + 96 ch-1 sps]**

**Round 19 (MC — Shell Split Round):**
> *Now we ADD shells to increase circumference. Each existing shell will now feed TWO shells in the new round.*

Join MC. Sl st to center ch-sp of first Shell.
Ch 3 (counts as dc), (dc, ch 1, dc) in same sp [Small Shell in center], ch 2, sc in sc between shells, ch 2, Small Shell in 2nd ch-1 sp to the left of center of same Shell, *sc in next sc, [Small Shell in 3rd ch-1 sp (center), ch 2, sc in sc, ch 2, Small Shell in ch-sp 2 left of center of same Shell]; rep from * around adjusting for end. Sl st to join.

> **Simplified Round 19 instruction:**
> Work (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc) in 2nd ch-sp of Shell, ch 2, sc in sc, ch 2, (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc) in 4th ch-sp of same Shell; *sc in sc, (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc) in 2nd ch-sp of next Shell, ch 2, sc in sc, ch 2, (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc) in 4th ch-sp of same Shell; rep from * around. Sl st to join. **[96 Small Shells + 96 sc]**

> ✅ *Shell count doubles: 48 → 96. This is the key increase round that expands circumference significantly.*

**Round 20 (MC):**
Sl st to center of first Small Shell. Ch 3, (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc) in same sp [Full Shell], *ch 1, sc in sc, ch 1, Full Shell in center of next Small Shell; rep from * around. Sl st to join. **[96 Full Shells + 96 sc + 192 ch-1 sps]**

> 📍 *Circle should measure approximately 30–31 inches across.*

**Round 21 (CC1 — Contrast Round):**
Join CC1. Work same as Round 17 (Shells into Shells, sc into sc). **[96 Shells + 96 sc]**

> *The cranberry red shells pop beautifully against the green background.*

**Round 22 (MC):**
Join MC. Work same as Round 17. **[96 Shells + 96 sc]**

**Round 23 (MC — Second Shell Split Round):**
> *Repeat the shell-split technique from Round 19, now on 96 shells.*

Work (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc) in 2nd ch-sp of Shell, ch 2, sc in sc, ch 2, (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc) in 4th ch-sp of same Shell; *sc in sc, rep from * around. Sl st to join. **[192 Small Shells + 192 sc]**

> ✅ *96 × 2 = 192 shells. Circle should measure approximately 37–38 inches.*

**Round 24 (CC2):**
Join CC2. Sl st to center of first Small Shell.
Ch 3, (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc) in same sp [Full Shell], *ch 1, sc in sc, ch 1, Full Shell in center of next Small Shell; rep from * around. Sl st to join. **[192 Full Shells + 192 sc]**

> 📍 *Circle should measure approximately 40–41 inches across. You are nearly at full size.*

---

### SECTION 6: OUTER BORDER (Rounds 25–28)

> **Color:** All MC unless noted. The border consolidates the shells into a dramatic scalloped edge.

**Round 25 (MC — Border Foundation):**
Join MC. Ch 1, sc in joining st, *sc in each dc of Shell (5 sc), sc in each ch-1 sp of Shell (4 sc), sc in sc; rep from * around. Sl st to first sc to join. **[192 × 10 + 192 × 1 = 1,920 + 192 = 2,112 sc]**

> ✅ *Wait — this is too many. Let's recalculate:*
> Each Full Shell = 5 dc + 4 ch-1 sps = 9 positions → 9 sc. Plus 1 sc for the "sc between shells" = 10 sc per shell repeat.
> 192 shells × 10 sc = 1,920 sc.
> But this is very high. Let's simplify the border foundation:

**Round 25 (MC — Simplified Border Foundation):**
Join MC. Ch 1, *sc in center dc of next Shell, ch 3, sc in next sc; rep from * around. Sl st to first sc. **[192 sc + 192 ch-3 sps = 384 sts/sps]**

> *This condenses the edge into arch/scallop foundations.*

**Round 26 (CC1 — Scallop Round):**
Join CC1. Ch 1, *work (sc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc) in ch-3 sp [scallop made]; rep from * around. Sl st to first sc. **[192 scallops]**

> 📍 *Circle should now measure 42 inches across.*

**Round 27 (CC2 — Picot Accent):**
Join CC2. Ch 1, sc in first st, *Picot, sc in next 3 sts; rep from * around, adjusting to end cleanly. Sl st to join. Fasten off.

**Round 28 (MC — Final Stabilizing Round) [Optional]:**
If edge feels floppy, join MC and work 1 round of sc evenly around the back side of Round 26 scallops (working into the "valley" between scallops) to stabilize. Fasten off.

---

### BACK OPENING EDGING

The back opening runs in a straight line from the inner ring to the outer edge. Neaten it as follows:

**Step 1:** Identify the straight edges on each side of the opening gap.

**Step 2:** Join CC1 at the inner ring edge, RS facing.
Work sc evenly up one side of the opening (approximately 1 sc per dc row end). At the outer edge, work 3 sc in corner. Continue across if needed. Fasten off.

**Step 3:** Repeat on opposite side of opening.

**Step 4:** Work 1 additional round of sc around the inner center ring for a neat finish. Join CC2, ch 1, sc in each st around inner ring, sl st to join, fasten off.

**Closure Options:**
- **Ribbon:** Sew 2 small ribbon loops on each opening edge and thread a 1-yard length of ribbon through for a bow.
- **Buttons:** Sew 3 buttons evenly along one opening edge. On opposite edge, work 3 ch-4 button loops evenly spaced.
- **Snaps:** Sew 4 snaps evenly along both opening edges for an invisible closure.

---

## FINISHING

### Weaving Ends
Using your yarn needle, weave all ends in for at least 2 inches, changing direction once to secure. Trim close. Take extra care with color-change ends — weave into the matching color section when possible.

### Blocking
**This pattern REQUIRES blocking to achieve its full size and beauty.**

**Wet Blocking Method (Recommended):**
1. Fill a large basin or bathtub with cool water and a drop of wool wash (even for acrylic — it softens the fibers).
2. Submerge the tree skirt and press gently. Do not wring or agitate.
3. Lift out supporting the full weight. Lay flat on a stack of towels and roll to press out excess water.
4. Lay out on blocking mats (you may need several mats joined together for a 42-inch piece).
5. Pin the outer edge to shape, pinning into the "valley" between scallops to open them up. You should use 50–80 pins around the outer edge.
6. Pin the inner ring to a circle approximately 6 inches across.
7. Allow to dry completely (12–24 hours). Do not move until fully dry.

**Steam Blocking Alternative (for acrylic):**
Hold a steam iron approximately 1 inch above the surface — do not touch the iron to the fabric. Move slowly in circles. Pin as above. Allow to cool and set before unpinning.

> ⚠️ *Do not press down on the bobbles or shells with the iron — this will permanently flatten the texture.*

---

## STITCH COUNTS AT A GLANCE (Quick Reference)

| Round | Stitch Count | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | 12 dc | Magic ring |
| 2 | 24 dc | +12 |
| 3 | 36 dc | +12 |
| 4 | 48 dc | +12 |
| 5 | 60 dc | +12 |
| 6 | 72 dc | +12 |
| 7 | 84 dc | +12 |
| 8 | 96 dc | +12 |
| 9 | 108 dc | +12 |
| 10 | 120 sts | Bobble round (CC1) |
| 11 | 120 sts | Relief round (MC) |
| 12 | 132 sts | Bobble round (CC1) |
| 13 | 144 dc | Transition (MC) |
| 14 | 144 sts | Mesh setup |
| 15 | 96 pattern repeats | Small Shells (CC2) |
| 16–18 | 48 Shells + 48 sc | Full Shells begin |
| 19 | 96 Small Shells + 96 sc | **Shell split** |
| 20–22 | 96 Shells + 96 sc | Full Shells |
| 23 | 192 Small Shells + 192 sc | **Shell split** |
| 24 | 192 Full Shells + 192 sc | (CC2) |
| 25 | 384 arches | Border foundation |
| 26 | 192 scallops | (CC1) |
| 27 | Picot round | (CC2) |

---

## VARIATIONS & CUSTOMIZATION

### Size Adjustments
| Size | Target Diameter | Stop After | Additional Yardage |
|---|---|---|---|
| Small | 36 inches | Round 21 | — |
| Standard | 42 inches | Round 28 | — |
| Large | 48 inches | Add 1 more split round | +400 yards |

To add a split round: Work one additional "Shell Split Round" (like Rounds 19/23) after Round 24, then work 3 more full-shell rounds before the border.

### Color Variations
| Theme | MC | CC1 | CC2 |
|---|---|---|---|
| Traditional | Forest Green | Cranberry Red | Cream White |
| Winter White | Ivory | Silver Gray | Pale Blue |
| Modern | Navy | Copper Gold | Cream |
| Rustic | Burgundy | Natural Tan | Dark Brown |

### Adding Embellishments
After blocking and finishing, you may add:
- **Jingle bells:** Sew to the tips of the scallop points on the outer border.
- **Beads:** Thread onto yarn before working picots for sparkle.
- **Fringe:** Cut 8-inch lengths of CC1 or CC2 and attach in groups of 3 between each outer scallop.

---

## CARE INSTRUCTIONS

| Fiber | Wash | Dry | Iron |
|---|---|---|---|
| Acrylic | Machine wash cold, gentle | Flat dry | No |
| Wool/Blend | Hand wash cold | Flat dry | Steam only |
| Cotton | Machine wash cold | Flat dry | Low steam |

> **Tip:** Store your tree skirt flat or loosely rolled (never folded) in a breathable cotton bag between seasons. Avoid plastic bags which can trap moisture.

---

## YARN USAGE TRACKER

| Color | Rounds Used | Estimated Yards |
|---|---|---|
| MC (Forest Green) | 1–9, 11, 13, 16–17, 19–20, 22–23, 25, 28 | ~900 yards |
| CC1 (Cranberry Red) | 10, 12, 21, 26 | ~450 yards |
| CC2 (Cream White) | 15, 18, 24, 27 | ~300 yards |
| **Total** | | **~1,650 yards** |

> Buy an extra skein of MC as insurance. Exact yardage varies with individual gauge and yarn brand.

---

*Pattern designed for personal use. You may sell finished items made from this pattern; please credit the pattern. Do not reproduce or distribute the pattern itself.*

**Happy hooking, and may your holidays be merry and bright! 🎄**

---