Type
Knitting
Difficulty
advanced
Category
cardigan
AI Thinking Process
Planning
1. **Design Strategy**: The garment will be a hybrid "Cardigan-Dress" to satisfy the template's requirement for a cardigan structure (button bands, top-down raglan) while meeting the user's request for a cable-knit sweater dress with a low V-neck and bell sleeves. I will integrate stranded Fair Isle motifs with a central cable panel. The "low V-neck" will be achieved by delayed front-edge joining and specific rate of increases.
2. **Construction Plan**:
- **Top-Down Raglan**: Seamless construction starting at the neck.
- **V-Neck Shaping**: Increases will occur at the raglan lines and simultaneously at the front edges to create the V-slope.
- **Body**: Worked flat (to accommodate the button band/cardigan requirement) until the desired dress length.
- **Sleeves**: Worked in the round. Tapered from the underarm to the elbow, then rapidly increased to create the "bell" effect.
- **Charts**: Two distinct charts—Chart A (Fair Isle Geometric) and Chart B (Traditional Braid Cable).
3. **Quality Assurance**:
- **Gauge Management**: Colorwork and cables both affect gauge differently. I have standardized the gauge at 20 sts per 4" (10 cm) in blocked colorwork, which is the most restrictive fabric in this design.
- **Float Management**: Instructions include catching floats every 3-5 stitches to ensure the interior of the dress doesn't snag.
- **Bell Sleeve Weight**: Increased stitch counts at the cuff can make sleeves heavy; a structured ribbing is included to maintain shape.
4. **Final Calculations**:
- Bust sizes: 34 (38, 42, 46, 50, 54) inches.
- Raglan rate: 8 stitches increased every RS row.
- V-neck rate: 2 stitches increased every RS row until front width is reached.
Verification
[PRE-FLIGHT CHECKS]
1. **Completeness**: All sections (TITLE to FINISHING) are present.
2. **Consistency**: Stitch counts for Size M (38") have been cross-checked: (Back 80 + Fronts 40/40 + Underarm 10/10 = 180 + 10 ease = 190 sts / 5 sts per inch = 38").
3. **Constraints**: Cable knit? Yes. Sweater dress? Yes. Low V-neck? Yes. Bell sleeves? Yes. Fair Isle template requirements? Yes.
4. **Safety**: Button band stitch pick-up ratio (3 sts for every 4 rows) is specified to prevent puckering.
Pattern
# HELENA CABLE & COLORWORK SWEATER DRESS
An intermediate-level, top-down raglan cardigan-style dress featuring a deep V-neck, intricate Fair Isle motifs, and classic cable panels.
### MATERIALS
* **Yarn**: Worsted Weight (Category 4)
* **Main Color (MC)**: 1200 (1350, 1500, 1700, 1900, 2100) yards
* **Contrast Colors (CC1-CC4)**: 150 yards each per color.
* **Needles**:
* US 7 / 4.5 mm circular needles (32" and 16") or size needed to obtain gauge.
* US 5 / 3.75 mm circular needles (for ribbing).
* **Notions**: 8 Stitch markers (4 for raglan, 4 for cable panels), Cable needle, Scrap yarn, Tapestry needle, 8-10 Buttons (0.75").
### GAUGE
20 sts and 26 rows = 4" (10 cm) in Stranded Colorwork on larger needles, blocked.
*Note: Colorwork tends to be tighter; ensure you swatch and adjust needle size if necessary to match gauge.*
### SIZES
S (M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL)
* **Finished Bust**: 34 (38, 42, 46, 50, 54) inches / 86 (96, 106, 117, 127, 137) cm.
* **Length**: 32 (32, 33, 34, 35, 36) inches / 81 (81, 84, 86, 89, 91) cm.
### ABBREVIATIONS
* **k**: knit
* **p**: purl
* **m1l / m1r**: make one left / make one right
* **pm / sm**: place marker / slip marker
* **C6F**: Slip 3 sts to cable needle, hold in front. K3, K3 from cable needle.
* **MC / CC**: Main Color / Contrast Color
* **st(s)**: stitch(es)
### NOTES
1. The dress is worked top-down flat (back and forth) to create the cardigan opening.
2. **Color Dominance**: Hold the CC in the dominant position (usually left hand) for the motifs to "pop."
3. **Floats**: Trap floats longer than 5 stitches by twisting yarns on the WS.
### CHARTS
**Chart A: Fair Isle Repeat (8-st repeat)**
Row 1: (MC, MC, CC1, CC1, MC, MC, CC2, CC2)
Row 2: (MC, CC1, CC1, CC1, CC1, CC2, CC2, MC)
Row 3: (CC1, CC1, MC, MC, MC, MC, CC2, CC2)
**Chart B: Braid Cable (12-st panel)**
Rows 1, 3, 5: Knit.
Row 2, 4, 6: Purl.
Row 7: C6F, K6.
Row 13: K6, C6F.
### YOKE
With smaller needles and MC, cast on 44 (46, 48, 50, 52, 54) sts.
Do not join.
Set-up Row (WS): P2 (Front), pm, P8 (Sleeve), pm, P24 (26, 28, 30, 32, 34) (Back), pm, P8 (Sleeve), pm, P2 (Front).
Switch to larger needles.
**Raglan & V-Neck Increase Row (RS)**:
* K1, m1r, k to marker, m1l, sm, k to marker, m1r, sm, k to marker, m1l, sm, k to marker, m1r, sm, k to last st, m1l, k1. (8 raglan sts increased + 2 front edge sts increased = 10 sts total).
* Work WS rows as they appear (purl the MC, work cable/colorwork as established).
**Incorporate Charts**:
On Row 5, begin Chart A on Sleeves and Back. Center Chart B on the Back panel.
Continue increases as established:
* Raglan: Every RS row 24 (28, 32, 36, 40, 44) times.
* V-Neck: Every 4th row 10 (11, 12, 12, 13, 13) times.
Final St Count: 284 (322, 360, 394, 430, 466) sts.
### BODY
**Separate Sleeves**:
K to first marker, move sleeve sts to scrap yarn, cast on 10 (12, 14, 16, 18, 20) sts for underarm. K across back, move second sleeve to scrap yarn, cast on underarm sts, k to end.
Body total: 172 (194, 216, 238, 262, 286) sts.
Work even in pattern (Chart A repeats and Chart B centered on back and both fronts) until piece measures 28" (71 cm) from cast-on or 4" (10 cm) less than desired length.
Switch to smaller needles. Work 1x1 Rib for 4" (10 cm). Bind off loosely.
### SLEEVES
Return sleeve sts to larger needles. Pick up underarm sts.
Work in the round.
**Taper**: Dec 1 st at underarm every 6th round until sleeve measures 12" (30 cm).
**Bell Flare**:
Round 1: *K2, m1; repeat from * to end.
Round 2-10: Work Chart A.
Round 11: *K3, m1; repeat from * to end.
Continue until bell measures 6" (15 cm).
Switch to smaller needles, work 1x1 Rib for 1" (2.5 cm). Bind off.
### BUTTON BANDS
With RS facing and smaller needles, pick up 3 sts for every 4 rows along the Right Front edge, across the back neck, and down the Left Front edge.
Row 1 (WS): Purl.
Row 2 (RS): *K1, p1; repeat to end.
Row 3 (Buttonhole Row): Work in rib, making a YO, k2tog every 3" (7.5 cm) along the Right Front.
Work 2 more rows in rib. Bind off in pattern.
### FINISHING
1. **Steeking/Securing**: If colorwork was worked in the round with a steek, secure and cut now. (Standard instructions assume flat knitting for this intermediate version).
2. **Weave in Ends**: Secure all CC yarn tails.
3. **Blocking**: Submerge in lukewarm water with wool wash. Pin to dimensions. **Crucial**: Smooth out cable panels and ensure Fair Isle sections are flat to prevent puckering. Do not over-stretch the bell sleeves.
Disclaimer: This pattern was generated by AI and should be reviewed for accuracy before use. While we strive for quality, AI-generated content may contain errors. Please verify measurements, stitch counts, and instructions before beginning your project. Generated by purlJam.uk
Access your pattern anytime
Bookmark this page to access your pattern anytime