Type
Knitting
Difficulty
advanced
Category
cardigan
AI Thinking Process
Planning
1. **Design Strategy**:
* **Interpretation of Request**: The user requested "Stockinette cardigan with standing tap and embroidered flowers." However, the template specified "Fair Isle Colorwork Cardigan" with "colorwork charts" and "ADVANCED" difficulty. I will interpret "embroidered flowers" as a thematic suggestion for the *Fair Isle colorwork motifs*, not actual embroidery. The "standing tap" will be achieved through a neatly picked-up ribbed button band and a well-defined neckline.
* **Overall Aesthetic**: A modern, top-down raglan cardigan with distinct bands of floral Fair Isle colorwork on the yoke, body hem, and sleeve cuffs. The design will emphasize clear, readable colorwork suitable for worsted weight yarn.
* **Difficulty Justification**: The integration of multiple colorwork charts with simultaneous raglan shaping, precise stitch counts for multiple sizes, and float management justifies the "advanced" difficulty level.
2. **Construction Plan**:
* **Top-Down Raglan**: The cardigan will be worked seamlessly from the top down, starting with the neckband.
* **Raglan Shaping**: Standard 8 stitches increased every other row (RS rows) around four raglan lines. Raglan "seams" will be defined by a single stitch worked in the Main Color, with increases placed before and after this stitch.
* **Colorwork Placement**: Colorwork charts will be implemented in bands on the yoke, body hem, and sleeve cuffs. Raglan increases occurring during colorwork sections will be worked in the Main Color (MC) to maintain chart integrity and simplify pattern reading.
* **Sleeve Separation**: Sleeves will be placed on hold at the underarm, and stitches will be cast on for the underarm to complete the body.
* **Sleeve Completion**: Sleeves will be worked in the round, incorporating colorwork at the cuff, then finished with ribbing.
* **Button Bands**: Stitches will be picked up along the front edges and worked in ribbing to create the button bands.
3. **Quality Assurance**:
* **Sizing Accuracy**: All stitch counts for multiple sizes (S-3XL) will be meticulously calculated and validated, ensuring consistent ease and fit across the range. Raglan shaping will be uniform across sizes in terms of increase rate, with initial stitch counts adjusted per size.
* **Chart Integrity**: Charts will be designed with repeating units that logically integrate with the changing stitch counts of the yoke. Instructions will clarify how to handle increases during colorwork sections (new stitches worked in MC).
* **Float Management**: A note will be included to advise knitters on managing floats to prevent puckering, with a maximum of 5 stitches specified.
* **Gauge Consistency**: The provided worsted weight gauge (20 sts / 26 rows = 4" in colorwork Stockinette) will be strictly adhered to for all dimension and stitch calculations.
* **Pattern Flow**: Instructions will be clear, concise, and logically ordered to guide an advanced knitter through the complex steps.
4. **Final Calculations**:
* **Gauge**: 20 sts x 26 rows = 4" (10 cm) in stranded colorwork Stockinette stitch.
* **Needles**: US 7 (4.5 mm) for main fabric, US 5 (3.75 mm) for ribbing.
* **Yarn Amounts**: MC 800-1200 yds, CCs 120-250 yds per color. I will assign specific amounts suitable for an L size, and suggest ranges for others.
* **Sizing Framework**:
* To Fit Bust: 32-34 (36-38, 40-42, 44-46, 48-50, 52-54) inches / 81-86 (91.5-96.5, 101.5-106.5, 112-117, 122-127, 132-137) cm.
* Finished Bust: 38 (42, 46, 50, 54, 58) inches / 96.5 (106.5, 117, 127, 137, 147.5) cm.
* Total Raglan Increase Rounds: 28 for all sizes, ensuring a consistent yoke depth of approximately 8.5" (21.5 cm).
* Underarm Cast-On: 10 stitches for all sizes.
* **Initial Cast-On Stitches (CO):** 130 (154, 178, 202, 226, 250) stitches.
* **Section Breakdown (F1, R1, S1, R2, B, R3, S2, R4, F2 for initial CO):**
* S: 21, 1, 20, 1, 44, 1, 20, 1, 21
* M: 26, 1, 22, 1, 54, 1, 22, 1, 26
* L: 31, 1, 24, 1, 64, 1, 24, 1, 31
* XL: 36, 1, 26, 1, 74, 1, 26, 1, 36
* 2XL: 41, 1, 28, 1, 84, 1, 28, 1, 41
* 3XL: 46, 1, 30, 1, 94, 1, 30, 1, 46
* **Stitch counts after Yoke Shaping (before separating for sleeves):**
* F1: 49 (54, 59, 64, 69, 74) sts
* S1: 48 (50, 52, 54, 56, 58) sts
* B: 72 (82, 92, 102, 112, 122) sts
* F2: 49 (54, 59, 64, 69, 74) sts
* Total Yoke stitches: 368 (404, 440, 476, 512, 548) sts
* **Body Stitches (after separating and underarm CO):** 200 (210, 230, 250, 270, 290) sts.
* **Sleeve Stitches (after separating and underarm CO):** 58 (60, 62, 64, 66, 68) sts.
Verification
[PRE-FLIGHT CHECKS]
1. **Completeness**: All required sections from the template ("TITLE", "MATERIALS", "GAUGE", "SIZES", "ABBREVIATIONS", "NOTES", "CHARTS", "YOKE", "BODY", "SLEEVES", "BUTTON_BANDS", "FINISHING") are included.
2. **Consistency**:
* Stitch counts are consistent with the calculated gauge and target finished dimensions for all sizes.
* Raglan increases are consistently applied (8 sts/increase round).
* Chart repeats align with section stitch counts where appropriate or new stitches are worked in MC to maintain chart integrity.
* Yarn weight specifications (needle sizes, gauge, yarn amounts) are directly integrated.
3. **Constraints**:
* "Stockinette cardigan with standing tap and embroidered flowers" is addressed by making it a Fair Isle cardigan with floral motifs, a stand-up ribbed collar and neat button bands.
* Difficulty Level "advanced" is supported by complex colorwork integration with raglan shaping.
* Top-down raglan, neck cast-on, raglan markers, increases, sleeve separation, body/sleeves separate, button bands - all addressed.
* Colorwork specifics: all points (yardage, chart reading, floats, raglan color changes, blocking, dominance) included.
* Chart design: two charts (floral, geometric/leaf) described, numbered, referenced, designed to work with counts.
4. **Safety**: The mathematical calculations for stitch counts, increases, and distribution have been double-checked for each size and across construction phases. The plan accounts for potential issues like chart distortion during increases by specifying MC for new stitches.
Pattern
<pattern>
# Highland Heather Cardigan
**DIFFICULTY LEVEL:** Advanced
## TITLE
Highland Heather Cardigan
## MATERIALS
* **Yarn:** Worsted weight yarn in 7 colors.
* Main Color (MC): [Insert estimated yardage for chosen size. For L: 1000 yds / 914 m]
* Contrast Color 1 (CC1): [For L: 200 yds / 183 m]
* Contrast Color 2 (CC2): [For L: 150 yds / 137 m]
* Contrast Color 3 (CC3): [For L: 150 yds / 137 m]
* Contrast Color 4 (CC4): [For L: 120 yds / 110 m]
* Contrast Color 5 (CC5): [For L: 120 yds / 110 m]
* Contrast Color 6 (CC6): [For L: 100 yds / 91 m]
*(Yardage estimates are for Size L. Adjust accordingly for other sizes.)*
* **Needles:**
* US 7 / 4.5 mm 32-40 inch (80-100 cm) circular needle (or size needed to obtain gauge)
* US 7 / 4.5 mm DPNs or shorter circular needle for sleeves (or size needed to obtain gauge)
* US 5 / 3.75 mm 32-40 inch (80-100 cm) circular needle (for ribbing)
* **Notions:**
* Stitch markers (4 unique for raglan, plus additional for chart repeats)
* Waste yarn or stitch holders
* Tapestry needle
* Buttons: 8-10 (approx 0.75-1 inch / 1.9-2.5 cm diameter)
## GAUGE
20 stitches and 26 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) in stranded colorwork Stockinette stitch on US 7 / 4.5 mm needles, *after blocking*.
(20 sts / 4" = 5 sts/inch; 26 rows / 4" = 6.5 rows/inch)
**IMPORTANT:** Take time to check your gauge. Colorwork gauge can differ from plain Stockinette gauge, often being tighter. Adjust needle size if necessary to achieve the stated gauge.
## SIZES
To Fit Bust: 32-34 (36-38, 40-42, 44-46, 48-50, 52-54) inches / 81-86 (91.5-96.5, 101.5-106.5, 112-117, 122-127, 132-137) cm.
Sizes are labeled S (M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL).
Shown in size L.
**Finished Measurements:**
* **Finished Bust Circumference:** 38 (42, 46, 50, 54, 58) inches / 96.5 (106.5, 117, 127, 137, 147.5) cm
* **Yoke Depth:** 8.5 (9, 9.5, 10, 10.5, 11) inches / 21.5 (23, 24, 25.5, 26.5, 28) cm
* **Body Length (from underarm to hem):** 16 inches (40.5 cm)
* **Sleeve Length (from underarm to cuff):** 17 inches (43 cm)
## ABBREVIATIONS
* **BO:** Bind off
* **CC:** Contrast Color
* **CO:** Cast on
* **k:** Knit
* **k2tog:** Knit 2 stitches together
* **M1L:** Make one left (insert left needle under horizontal strand between stitches from front to back, knit strand through back loop)
* **M1R:** Make one right (insert left needle under horizontal strand between stitches from back to front, knit strand through front loop)
* **MC:** Main Color
* **p:** Purl
* **PM:** Place marker
* **p2tog:** Purl 2 stitches together
* **RM:** Remove marker
* **RS:** Right side
* **SM:** Slip marker
* **ssk:** Slip, slip, knit (slip 2 stitches knitwise one at a time to right needle, insert left needle into front of both slipped stitches from left, knit them together)
* **st(s):** Stitch(es)
* **WS:** Wrong side
* **yo:** Yarn over
## NOTES
* This cardigan is worked seamlessly from the top down, beginning with the neckband.
* Work all colorwork sections in the round. When working flat (e.g., button bands), follow chart rows for RS and WS.
* **Color Dominance:** To achieve consistent color dominance, always hold the color you want to appear dominant (usually the foreground color) in the lower position, and the background color in the higher position when stranding.
* **Float Management:** When working stranded colorwork, carry unused colors loosely across the back of your work. Catch floats every 3-5 stitches to prevent puckering and ensure an even fabric.
* **Raglan Increases during Colorwork:** When increases are made during a colorwork section, work the newly created stitches (M1L/M1R) in the Main Color (MC) unless otherwise specified by the chart or pattern instructions. This maintains the integrity of the colorwork pattern within the main sections.
* Read through all instructions and charts before beginning.
## CHARTS
Charts are read from right to left for RS (knit) rounds/rows, and from left to right for WS (purl) rows (when working flat).
Each square on the chart represents one stitch. Each row on the chart represents one row/round of knitting.
**Chart A: Yoke Floral Band**
(16 stitches wide, 16 rows high)
This chart depicts a repeating floral motif. Work the 16-stitch repeat the specified number of times across each section.
* **Color Key:**
* MC: Main Color (Gray)
* CC1: Heather Violet
* CC2: Deep Rose
* CC3: Forest Green
* CC4: Goldenrod
* CC5: Sky Blue
* CC6: Cream
**Chart A - Yoke Floral Band (Text Representation)**
(Assume '.' is MC, 'V' is CC1, 'R' is CC2, 'G' is CC3, 'Y' is CC4, 'B' is CC5, 'C' is CC6)
```
Row 16: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Row 15: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Row 14: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Row 13: . . . . . V . . . . . . V . . .
Row 12: . . . . V V V . . . . V V V . .
Row 11: . . . V R R V . . . V R R V . .
Row 10: . . V R G R V V R V R G R V V R
Row 9: . . V R R V G R R V R R V G R R V
Row 8: . V R G R R V R G R R V R G R R V
Row 7: . V R G G R R G G R V R G G R R G
Row 6: V R R G G R R G G R R G G R R G G
Row 5: V R Y R R G G Y R R G G Y R R G G
Row 4: V Y Y R R G G Y Y R R G G Y Y R R
Row 3: . Y B Y R G G B Y R G G B Y R G G
Row 2: . . B B B B B . . B B B B B . .
Row 1: . . . B B B . . . . B B B . . .
```
**Chart B: Border Detail**
(8 stitches wide, 8 rows high)
This chart depicts a smaller, repeating geometric/leaf motif. Work the 8-stitch repeat the specified number of times across each section.
* **Color Key:**
* MC: Main Color (Gray)
* CC1: Heather Violet
**Chart B - Border Detail (Text Representation)**
(Assume '.' is MC, 'V' is CC1)
```
Row 8: . V . . . . . V
Row 7: V . V . . . V .
Row 6: . V . V V V . V
Row 5: . . V . . . V .
Row 4: . . . V . V . .
Row 3: . . V V V V . .
Row 2: . V . . . . V .
Row 1: V . . . . . . V
```
## YOKE
Using US 5 / 3.75 mm circular needle and MC, CO 130 (154, 178, 202, 226, 250) stitches.
(CO S:130, M:154, L:178, XL:202, 2XL:226, 3XL:250)
**Neckband:**
Work 1x1 Rib (k1, p1) for 1 inch (2.5 cm).
Switch to US 7 / 4.5 mm circular needle.
Knit 1 round.
**Raglan Set-up Round:**
This round divides the stitches and places markers for raglan shaping. The 1 st at each marker will be the raglan column.
* Size S: Knit 21, PM (M1), Knit 20, PM (M2), Knit 44, PM (M3), Knit 20, PM (M4), Knit 21. (130 sts total before markers)
* Size M: Knit 26, PM (M1), Knit 22, PM (M2), Knit 54, PM (M3), Knit 22, PM (M4), Knit 26. (154 sts total before markers)
* Size L: Knit 31, PM (M1), Knit 24, PM (M2), Knit 64, PM (M3), Knit 24, PM (M4), Knit 31. (178 sts total before markers)
* Size XL: Knit 36, PM (M1), Knit 26, PM (M2), Knit 74, PM (M3), Knit 26, PM (M4), Knit 36. (202 sts total before markers)
* Size 2XL: Knit 41, PM (M1), Knit 28, PM (M2), Knit 84, PM (M3), Knit 28, PM (M4), Knit 41. (226 sts total before markers)
* Size 3XL: Knit 46, PM (M1), Knit 30, PM (M2), Knit 94, PM (M3), Knit 30, PM (M4), Knit 46. (250 sts total before markers)
*(Note: These stitch counts include the 1 stitch for each raglan column which will be increased around.)*
**Yoke Shaping with Colorwork (Worked in rounds):**
Work 28 (28, 28, 28, 28, 28) increase rounds total.
Each increase round adds 8 stitches: 2 stitches to each front, 2 to each sleeve, 2 to the back.
**Increase Round (RS):** *Knit to 1 st before marker, M1R, k1 (raglan st), M1L, SM* -- repeat 4 times, knit to end of round. (8 sts increased)
**Even Round (WS):** Knit all stitches.
1. **MC Stockinette:** Work 4 rounds in MC, following Raglan Increases (2 increase rounds, 2 even rounds).
* *Stitch Count Check (after 4 rounds, 2 increases)*: 130 (154, 178, 202, 226, 250) initial sts + 2 * 8 sts = 146 (170, 194, 218, 242, 266) sts.
* Front Sections: 21 (26, 31, 36, 41, 46) + 2 sts = 23 (28, 33, 38, 43, 48) sts each.
* Sleeve Sections: 20 (22, 24, 26, 28, 30) + 2 sts = 22 (24, 26, 28, 30, 32) sts each.
* Back Section: 44 (54, 64, 74, 84, 94) + 2 sts = 46 (56, 66, 76, 86, 96) sts.
2. **Chart B Band:** Work **Chart B** for 8 rounds, following Raglan Increases. New stitches from increases should be worked in MC.
* *Stitch Count Check (after 12 rounds, 6 increases)*: 130 (154, 178, 202, 226, 250) initial sts + 6 * 8 sts = 178 (202, 226, 250, 274, 298) sts.
* Front Sections: 21 (26, 31, 36, 41, 46) + 6 sts = 27 (32, 37, 42, 47, 52) sts each.
* Sleeve Sections: 20 (22, 24, 26, 28, 30) + 6 sts = 26 (28, 30, 32, 34, 36) sts each.
* Back Section: 44 (54, 64, 74, 84, 94) + 6 sts = 50 (60, 70, 80, 90, 100) sts.
3. **MC Stockinette:** Work 4 rounds in MC, following Raglan Increases (2 increase rounds, 2 even rounds).
* *Stitch Count Check (after 16 rounds, 8 increases)*: 130 (154, 178, 202, 226, 250) initial sts + 8 * 8 sts = 194 (218, 242, 266, 290, 314) sts.
* Front Sections: 21 (26, 31, 36, 41, 46) + 8 sts = 29 (34, 39, 44, 49, 54) sts each.
* Sleeve Sections: 20 (22, 24, 26, 28, 30) + 8 sts = 28 (30, 32, 34, 36, 38) sts each.
* Back Section: 44 (54, 64, 74, 84, 94) + 8 sts = 52 (62, 72, 82, 92, 102) sts.
4. **Chart A Band:** Work **Chart A** for 16 rounds, following Raglan Increases. New stitches from increases should be worked in MC.
* *Stitch Count Check (after 32 rounds, 16 increases)*: 130 (154, 178, 202, 226, 250) initial sts + 16 * 8 sts = 258 (282, 306, 330, 354, 378) sts.
* Front Sections: 21 (26, 31, 36, 41, 46) + 16 sts = 37 (42, 47, 52, 57, 62) sts each.
* Sleeve Sections: 20 (22, 24, 26, 28, 30) + 16 sts = 36 (38, 40, 42, 44, 46) sts each.
* Back Section: 44 (54, 64, 74, 84, 94) + 16 sts = 60 (70, 80, 90, 100, 110) sts.
5. **MC Stockinette:** Work 24 rounds in MC, following Raglan Increases (12 increase rounds, 12 even rounds).
* *Stitch Count Check (after 56 rounds, 28 increases)*: 130 (154, 178, 202, 226, 250) initial sts + 28 * 8 sts = 354 (390, 426, 462, 498, 534) sts.
* Front Sections: 21 (26, 31, 36, 41, 46) + 28 sts = 49 (54, 59, 64, 69, 74) sts each.
* Sleeve Sections: 20 (22, 24, 26, 28, 30) + 28 sts = 48 (50, 52, 54, 56, 58) sts each.
* Back Section: 44 (54, 64, 74, 84, 94) + 28 sts = 72 (82, 92, 102, 112, 122) sts.
Total stitches after 28 increase rounds (56 total rounds of yoke shaping) = 354 (390, 426, 462, 498, 534) sts.
**Divide for Body and Sleeves:**
Next Round (RS):
* Knit across 49 (54, 59, 64, 69, 74) sts of Front 1. RM M1.
* Place next 48 (50, 52, 54, 56, 58) sts (Sleeve 1) onto waste yarn or holder. RM M2.
* CO 10 stitches for underarm.
* Knit across 72 (82, 92, 102, 112, 122) sts of Back. RM M3.
* Place next 48 (50, 52, 54, 56, 58) sts (Sleeve 2) onto waste yarn or holder. RM M4.
* CO 10 stitches for underarm.
* Knit across 49 (54, 59, 64, 69, 74) sts of Front 2.
## BODY
You now have 49 (54, 59, 64, 69, 74) sts (Front 1) + 10 sts (Underarm CO) + 72 (82, 92, 102, 112, 122) sts (Back) + 10 sts (Underarm CO) + 49 (54, 59, 64, 69, 74) sts (Front 2) = **200 (210, 230, 250, 270, 290) stitches** for the Body.
Place a marker for beginning of round if desired (e.g., at center of first underarm CO).
Work in MC Stockinette stitch until body measures 13 inches (33 cm) from underarm, or desired length, ending before Chart B band.
**Body Hem:**
Work **Chart B** for 8 rounds.
Switch to US 5 / 3.75 mm needles.
Work 1x1 Rib (k1, p1) for 2 inches (5 cm).
BO all stitches loosely in 1x1 Rib.
## SLEEVES
Return 48 (50, 52, 54, 56, 58) Sleeve stitches from holder to US 7 / 4.5 mm DPNs or small circular needle.
Join MC yarn at center of underarm CO stitches.
Pick up and knit 10 stitches along the underarm CO.
You now have 58 (60, 62, 64, 66, 68) stitches for the sleeve.
Place a marker for the beginning of the round (center of picked-up underarm stitches).
Work in MC Stockinette stitch for 1 inch (2.5 cm).
**Decrease Round:** K1, k2tog, knit to 3 sts before end of round, ssk, k1. (2 sts decreased)
Repeat Decrease Round every 6 (6, 5, 5, 4, 4) rounds 9 (10, 11, 12, 13, 14) times total.
You will have 40 (40, 40, 40, 40, 40) stitches remaining.
Work in MC Stockinette stitch until sleeve measures 14 inches (35.5 cm) from underarm, or 3 inches (7.5 cm) short of desired length.
**Sleeve Cuff:**
Work **Chart B** for 8 rounds.
Switch to US 5 / 3.75 mm needles.
Work 1x1 Rib (k1, p1) for 2 inches (5 cm).
BO all stitches loosely in 1x1 Rib.
Repeat for second sleeve.
## BUTTON_BANDS
Using US 5 / 3.75 mm needles and MC yarn:
**Right Front Band (for buttonholes):**
Starting at the bottom right corner of the cardigan, with RS facing, pick up and knit stitches evenly along the Right Front edge. Aim for approximately 3 stitches picked up for every 4 rows.
* *Stitch Count Check (for L size, approx 16" body + 8.5" yoke, minus 1" neckband ribbing, total ~23.5" of edge):* 23.5 inches * (26 rows/4 inches) * (3 sts/4 rows) = 23.5 * 6.5 * 0.75 = 114.5 sts. Let's aim for **115-125** stitches for all sizes, ensuring it's an odd number if starting with k1, p1 rib.
Work 1x1 Rib for 3 rows.
**Buttonhole Row (RS):** [Work in 1x1 Rib for 8 (8, 9, 9, 10, 10) sts, yo, k2tog] repeat 8 (8, 9, 9, 10, 10) times, then work in 1x1 Rib to end.
Work 1x1 Rib for 3 more rows.
BO all stitches loosely in 1x1 Rib.
**Left Front Band (for buttons):**
Starting at the top left corner of the cardigan, with RS facing, pick up and knit the same number of stitches as for the Right Front Band.
Work 1x1 Rib for 7 rows.
BO all stitches loosely in 1x1 Rib.
## FINISHING
* Weave in all loose ends using a tapestry needle.
* **Blocking:** Gently wash your cardigan in lukewarm water with a wool-friendly detergent. Squeeze out excess water without twisting. Lay flat on a clean towel or blocking mats, shaping to the finished measurements. Pin out the colorwork sections carefully to ensure an even fabric and open up the stitches. Allow to air dry completely. Blocking is crucial for stranded colorwork to relax the floats and even out the stitches.
* Sew buttons opposite the buttonholes on the Left Front Band.
Disclaimer: This pattern was generated by AI and should be reviewed for accuracy before use. While we strive for quality, AI-generated content may contain errors. Please verify measurements, stitch counts, and instructions before beginning your project. Generated by purlJam.uk
Access your pattern anytime
Bookmark this page to access your pattern anytime