purlJam

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# HIGHLAND PLAID MACHINE-KNIT BEANIE
### Intermediate | Flatbed Machine | Worsted Weight

---

> **Designer's Note:** This beanie achieves a classic tartan plaid effect through two techniques: horizontal color stripes knitted directly into the body, and vertical lines added afterward with duplicate stitch. The result reads as a structured plaid without requiring a punchcard setup, making it ideal for standard and mid-gauge machines alike.

---

## FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

| | Size S/M | Size M/L |
|---|---|---|
| Circumference (unstretched) | 18 in (45.5 cm) | 20 in (51 cm) |
| Circumference (stretched to fit) | 20–22 in (51–56 cm) | 22–24 in (56–61 cm) |
| Total Height (brim folded up) | 9 in (23 cm) | 9.5 in (24 cm) |

> **Fit note:** These measurements include ~10–15% negative ease. The rib brim stretches generously to accommodate most adult head sizes. Instructions are written for Size M/L (70 sts on mid-gauge). Size S/M adjustments appear in *italics* where they differ.

---

## SECTION 1 — MACHINE SETUP

### 1.1 Machine Type

| Machine Type | Needle Pitch | Recommended for Worsted |
|---|---|---|
| **Mid-gauge** (primary) | 6.5 mm | ✅ Yes — primary instructions |
| Standard gauge | 4.5 mm | See shaded standard-gauge callout boxes |

> **Standard-Gauge Knitters:** This pattern is written for a mid-gauge (6.5 mm) machine. Standard-gauge (4.5 mm) adaptations appear in **⬛ STANDARD GAUGE NOTES** boxes throughout. Key differences: cast on **80 sts** (S/M: 72 sts), work at T8/T9, and expect 4.0 sts/in × 5.5 rows/in.

---

### 1.2 Bed Configuration

**Option A — With Ribber (recommended for brim):**
- Engage ribber bed parallel to main bed.
- Set pitch lever to **P** (parallel) for 1×1 rib setup.
- Bring main bed needles and ribber needles into work in alternating sequence for 1×1 rib configuration.
- Set both carriage levers: **KNIT** on main bed, **KNIT** on ribber.
- Ensure carriages are synchronized and racking handle is at **center/0 position**.

**Option B — Without Ribber (mock rib using tuck stitch):**
- Main bed only. Set cam lever to **TUCK** (one direction) or work a 2×2 mock rib by manually placing stitches on every other needle.
- See RIBBED BRIM section for mock rib modification.

---

### 1.3 Initial Setup Checklist

Before casting on, confirm the following:

- [ ] **Needles selected:** 70 needles centered on the main bed
  *(Needles 35L through 35R, or equivalent center-zero arrangement)*
  *[S/M: 64 sts — 32L to 32R]*
- [ ] **Carriage starts:** Carriage on LEFT (COL) for waste yarn cast-on
- [ ] **Row counter:** Set to RC000 and confirm it increments correctly
- [ ] **Cast-on comb and claw weights:** Ready at machine
- [ ] **Ravel cord:** ~20 in (51 cm) length threaded and available
- [ ] **Waste yarn:** Smooth, slippery yarn in contrasting color (nylon or cotton recommended), wound on a separate cone or yarn carrier
- [ ] **Tension dials:** Pre-set to T5 (main bed) and T5 (ribber) for waste yarn
- [ ] **Transfer tools:** 1-prong, 2-prong, and 3-prong tools within reach
- [ ] **Latch tool:** Available for bind-off and dropped stitch repair
- [ ] **Yarn carriers/color changers:** Set up for 3 colors (MC, CC1, CC2)

---

### 1.4 Tension Dial Settings Summary

| Section | Main Bed | Ribber | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Waste yarn | T5 | T5 | Any smooth waste yarn |
| Ravel cord row | T5 | T5 | 1 row only |
| Rib brim (1×1) | T5 | T5 | Slightly tighter for firm brim |
| Body (all colors) | T6 | — | Main bed only for body |
| Crown shaping | T6 | — | Maintain consistent tension during decreases |

---

## SECTION 2 — MATERIALS

### Yarn

| Yarn | Weight | Amount | Suggested Color |
|---|---|---|---|
| **Color A — Main Color (MC)** | Worsted (Aran) | 175 yds (160 m) | Deep forest green, navy, charcoal |
| **Color B — Contrast Color 1 (CC1)** | Worsted (Aran) | 45 yds (41 m) | Cream, ivory, or oatmeal |
| **Color C — Contrast Color 2 (CC2)** | Worsted (Aran) | 45 yds (41 m) | Burgundy, red, or gold |
| **Waste yarn** | Any / Sport–Worsted | ~30 yds (27 m) | Contrasting slippery yarn |

> **Yarn Notes:** All three colors must be the **same weight and fiber content** (or very close) to ensure consistent tension across color changes. Wool or wool-blend yarns are strongly recommended — they steam-block beautifully and give excellent stitch definition for duplicate stitch work. Superwash wools also work well.

> **Total yardage:** Approximately 265 yds (242 m) total across all three colors.

### Tools and Notions

- Mid-gauge flatbed knitting machine (6.5 mm pitch), such as Silver Reed SK280, Studio 280/155, or equivalent
- Ribber attachment (optional but recommended for brim)
- Cast-on comb and set of claw weights (minimum 2 large, 4 small)
- 1-prong, 2-prong, and 3-prong transfer tools
- Latch tool (for bind-off and ladder repairs)
- Row counter (built-in or clip-on)
- Ravel cord (smooth, strong, won't break under tension)
- Tapestry/yarn needle (blunt-tipped, large eye) — for duplicate stitch and seaming
- Stitch markers or split-ring markers: 6
- Blocking form or balloon (head-shaped), T-pins
- Steam iron or garment steamer
- Scissors
- Optional: pom-pom maker (2.5 in / 6.5 cm diameter recommended)
- Optional: color changer accessory (for smooth horizontal stripe transitions)

---

## SECTION 3 — GAUGE AND TENSION

### 3.1 Tension Swatching (REQUIRED)

Before beginning, knit a gauge swatch at least **6 in × 6 in (15 cm × 15 cm)** in MC at T6 on the main bed. Wash and block the swatch in the same manner you intend to finish the hat, then measure.

**Target Gauge — Mid-gauge machine at T6, worsted weight:**

| | Stitches | Rows |
|---|---|---|
| Per inch | **3.5 sts** | **5.0 rows** |
| Per 4 inches (10 cm) | **14 sts** | **20 rows** |

> **If your gauge is tighter than target** (more sts/rows per inch): Increase tension dial by 0.5 increments until gauge matches.
> **If your gauge is looser than target** (fewer sts/rows per inch): Decrease tension dial by 0.5 increments.

> **⬛ STANDARD GAUGE NOTE:** Target gauge at T8–T9, worsted weight: **4.0 sts/in × 5.5 rows/in** (16 sts × 22 rows per 4 in / 10 cm).

---

### 3.2 Key Measurements from Gauge

*(Mid-gauge, 3.5 sts/in × 5.0 rows/in — math shown inline)*

| Measurement | Calculation | Result |
|---|---|---|
| Cast-on stitches (circ. 20 in) | 20 in × 3.5 sts/in | **70 sts** |
| Rib brim rows (1.5 in depth) | 1.5 in × 5.0 rows/in | **~8–12 rows** (rib compresses; use 12 rows) |
| Body rows (6.5 in) | 6.5 in × 5.0 rows/in | **32 rows (RC000–RC032)** |
| Crown shaping rows | ~12–14 rows | **~13 rows** |
| Total main yarn rows | 12 + 32 + 13 | **~57 rows** |

> **⬛ STANDARD GAUGE NOTE (4.0 sts/in × 5.5 rows/in):**
> - Cast-on: 20 in × 4.0 = **80 sts** *(S/M: 72 sts)*
> - Rib: **16 rows** (1.5 in × 5.5 rows = ~9; rib compresses, use 16)
> - Body: **36 rows** (6.5 in × 5.5 = 35.75, round to 36)
> - Crown: ~14–16 rows

---

## SECTION 4 — RIBBED BRIM

### 4.1 Waste Yarn and Ravel Cord Setup

**Carriage position: COL (carriage on left)**

**Step 1 — Thread waste yarn** into yarn carrier. Set tension dial to **T5** on both beds (if using ribber).

**Step 2 — Arrange needles:**
- If using ribber: Arrange 35 needles on main bed and 35 needles on ribber in **1×1 alternating configuration**, starting from center and working outward to N35L and N35R on each bed.
  - Main bed: Odd-numbered positions in work (N1, N3, N5... N69 from left)
  - Ribber bed: Even-numbered positions in work (N2, N4, N6... N70 from left)
  - *Effective stitch count: 70 total (35 main + 35 ribber)*
- If no ribber: Bring all 70 needles to working position (B position) on main bed only.

**Step 3 — Cast on with waste yarn:**
- Pass carriage from **LEFT to RIGHT (COL → COR)** across all working needles.
- Continue knitting **8 rows** of waste yarn (RC001–RC008), hanging cast-on comb after the first 2 rows and adding claw weights as needed to maintain even tension.
- **RC008, COR.**

**Step 4 — Ravel cord row:**
- Thread ravel cord (NOT yarn) across all needles by hand, placing it into the hooks of every needle currently holding a loop.
- Pass carriage from **RIGHT to LEFT (COR → COL)** at **T5** to knit one row over the ravel cord.
- **This creates the pick-up line you will use to rehang the brim later.**
- **RC009, COL.**

---

### 4.2 Rib Brim (With Ribber — 1×1 Rib)

**Step 5 — Switch to Main Color (MC):**
- Remove waste yarn from carrier. Thread MC.
- Set carriage to **KNIT/KNIT** on both carriage heads.
- Set row counter to **RC000.** *(You will track rib rows separately from body rows.)*

**Step 6 — Knit 1×1 rib:**
- Knit **12 rows** in 1×1 rib using MC, COL → COR, at T5 (main) / T5 (ribber).
- After row 2, hang additional claw weights to prevent rib from riding up into the gate pegs.
- Check every 4 rows that stitches are seated correctly on both beds and that no needles have dropped.
- **Rib RC012, COR** (or COL, depending on start — track by carriage position, not direction).

> **⬛ STANDARD GAUGE NOTE:** Knit **16 rib rows** at T7/T7 for 1.5 in rib depth.

---

### 4.3 Rib Brim (Without Ribber — Mock Rib Option)

*Skip this section if you have a ribber and completed Section 4.2.*

**Step 5 (alt) — Mock rib without ribber:**
- Thread MC. Set row counter to **RC000.**
- Arrange 70 needles in **2×2 configuration:** 2 needles in work (B position), 2 needles out of work (A position), across the bed.
  - *Result: 35 active needles in 2-needle groups, 35 needles OOW.*
  - *This creates a mock rib with visible knit columns separated by ladder gaps.*
- Knit **16 rows** at T5. The greater number of rows compensates for the lack of ribber tension.
- Return all 70 needles to working position at end of mock rib.
- **Mock rib RC016, reposition all needles.**

---

### 4.4 Transition from Rib to Body

**Step 7 — Separate ribber stitches to main bed (ribber users only):**
- Using your **transfer tool**, transfer all ribber needle stitches to their corresponding main bed needle positions.
  - Work across the bed systematically, from left to right, to avoid dropping stitches.
  - All 70 sts should now be on the **main bed only.**
- Disengage ribber (swing away from main bed or follow manufacturer's instructions).
- Confirm **70 sts on main bed.** *(S/M: 64 sts)*

**Step 8 — Reset row counter to RC000.**
- This RC000 marks the beginning of the **body** section.
- Carriage should be positioned at **COR** (right side) before proceeding.
- Hang claw weights across the full width of the knitting if not already in place.

---

## SECTION 5 — BODY ROWS (Plaid Stripe Pattern)

### 5.1 Plaid Color Scheme

The plaid effect is created using a **12-row stripe repeat** that is knitted horizontally, combined with **duplicate stitch vertical lines** added after finishing. This section covers the knitted stripe portion.

**Stripe Sequence (12-row repeat):**

| Rows | Color | Rows Knitted | Cumulative Rows |
|---|---|---|---|
| Rows 1–4 | MC (Color A) | 4 rows | RC004 |
| Rows 5–6 | CC1 (Color B) | 2 rows | RC006 |
| Rows 7–10 | MC (Color A) | 4 rows | RC010 |
| Rows 11–12 | CC2 (Color C) | 2 rows | RC012 |

**Repeat this 12-row sequence 2 full times, then work an additional 8 rows of MC.**

| Repeat | RC Start | RC End | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Stripe Repeat 1 | RC000 | RC012 | First full plaid repeat |
| Stripe Repeat 2 | RC012 | RC024 | Second full plaid repeat |
| MC finish section | RC024 | RC032 | 8 rows MC only — creates MC "ground" at crown |

**Body ends at RC032, COR (or COL — see carriage tracking below).**

> **Math check:** 12 × 2 = 24 rows + 8 rows MC = **32 rows total.** 32 rows ÷ 5 rows/in = **6.4 inches** body height. ✅

> **⬛ STANDARD GAUGE NOTE:** Work the same 12-row stripe sequence 3 full times (36 rows), then 8 more rows MC. Total body = **44 rows** at 5.5 rows/in ≈ 8.0 in body height. Adjust: Stripe Repeat 3 ends at RC036, MC finish section RC036–RC044, begin crown shaping at RC044.

---

### 5.2 Row-by-Row Body Instructions

**Tension: T6, main bed only.**
**Carriage: COL at start of body (RC000). Track carriage position every row.**

**Place marker stitch clips at needle positions N10, N20, N30, N40, N50, N60** from the left edge of the knitting. These mark the vertical lines for duplicate stitch later and help track stripe alignment.

---

#### Body Section A: Stripe Repeat 1 (RC000–RC012)

**RC000 → RC004 — MC (Color A): 4 rows**
- Thread MC into yarn carrier.
- Pass carriage COL → COR *(RC001)*
- Pass carriage COR → COL *(RC002)*
- Pass carriage COL → COR *(RC003)*
- Pass carriage COR → COL *(RC004)*
- **RC004, COL.** Knitting should be smooth and even. Check weight distribution and add more claw weights if edge stitches appear loose.

**RC004 → RC006 — CC1 (Color B): 2 rows**
- Cut MC, leaving an 8 in (20 cm) tail. Thread CC1 into yarn carrier.
  *(If using a color changer: slide MC carrier to holding position, thread CC1 into the active carrier.)*
- Pass carriage COL → COR *(RC005)*
- Pass carriage COR → COL *(RC006)*
- **RC006, COL.**

> **Color change tip:** When cutting and re-joining yarn, begin the new color at the **side opposite the selvedge edge you will later seam** — this hides joins inside the seam allowance. Alternatively, work joins at the right edge (COR position) consistently so all tails emerge on one side.

**RC006 → RC010 — MC (Color A): 4 rows**
- Cut CC1, leaving 8 in (20 cm) tail. Re-thread MC.
- Work 4 rows: COL→COR (RC007), COR→COL (RC008), COL→COR (RC009), COR→COL (RC010).
- **RC010, COL.**

**RC010 → RC012 — CC2 (Color C): 2 rows**
- Cut MC. Thread CC2.
- Work 2 rows: COL→COR (RC011), COR→COL (RC012).
- **RC012, COL.**
- *Stripe Repeat 1 complete.* ✅

---

#### Body Section B: Stripe Repeat 2 (RC012–RC024)

- Cut CC2. Thread MC.
- Work the **identical 12-row stripe sequence** as above:
  - MC: RC013–RC016 (4 rows)
  - CC1: RC017–RC018 (2 rows)
  - MC: RC019–RC022 (4 rows)
  - CC2: RC023–RC024 (2 rows)
- **RC024, COL.** *Stripe Repeat 2 complete.* ✅

---

#### Body Section C: MC Finish Section (RC024–RC032)

- Cut CC2. Thread MC.
- Work **8 rows** of MC only at T6.
  - RC025, RC026, RC027, RC028, RC029, RC030, RC031, RC032.
- **RC032, COL.** *Body complete.* ✅

> **Check:** Knitting should measure approximately **6.5–7 inches** (16.5–18 cm) from the cast-on edge (ravel cord row), not including waste yarn. Measure flat, before seaming.

> **Do NOT cut yarn. MC remains active for crown shaping.**

---

## SECTION 6 — CROWN SHAPING

### 6.1 Overview

Crown shaping uses progressive stitch transfer (full-fashion decreases) to reduce the 70 stitches to 20 stitches over five stages. Each stage transfers every nth stitch onto its adjacent left neighbor, then knits a short sequence of rows to close the gaps before the next round of decreases.

**All decreases are worked on the main bed only, at T6.**
**A 3-prong transfer tool is strongly recommended. A 2-prong transfer tool works for final stages.**

> **⬛ STANDARD GAUGE NOTE (80 sts):** Crown uses **six** decrease stages (80→70→60→50→40→30→20). See end of Section 6 for standard-gauge crown chart.

---

### 6.2 Mid-Gauge Crown Shaping (70 sts → 20 sts)

**Carriage: COL at RC032 entering crown shaping.**

---

#### Crown Stage 1: RC032 → RC036 (70 sts → 60 sts)

**Transfer: Move every 7th stitch to its left neighbor.**

- Identify needles at positions: **7, 14, 21, 28, 35, 42, 49, 56, 63, 70** (counting from left edge).
  *[These are 10 needles total.]*
- Using 1-prong transfer tool: Transfer the stitch from each of these 10 needles onto the needle immediately to its **left** (position 6, 13, 20, 27, 34, 41, 48, 55, 62, 69 respectively).
- Push the now-empty needles (positions 7, 14, 21, 28, 35, 42, 49, 56, 63, 70) to **Non-Working Position (NWP / A position).**
- **Remaining active sts: 60.** *(Math: 70 − 10 = 60 ✅)*
- Knit **4 rows** at T6:
  - COL → COR *(RC033)*
  - COR → COL *(RC034)*
  - COL → COR *(RC035)*
  - COR → COL *(RC036)*
- **RC036, COL. 60 sts active.**

> **Tension note:** After each decrease stage, check that stitches are seated properly on all active needles before passing the carriage. The doubled stitches (at positions 6, 13, etc.) should sit neatly as knit-2-together loops.

---

#### Crown Stage 2: RC036 → RC039 (60 sts → 50 sts)

**Transfer: Move every 6th stitch of the currently active needles to its left neighbor.**

- Counting only among the **60 active needles**, identify the 6th, 12th, 18th, 24th, 30th, 36th, 42nd, 48th, 54th, and 60th active needles from the left.
- Transfer each to its adjacent active left neighbor.
- Push emptied needles to **NWP.**
- **Remaining active sts: 50.** *(Math: 60 − 10 = 50 ✅)*
- Knit **3 rows** at T6: COL→COR (RC037), COR→COL (RC038), COL→COR (RC039).
- **RC039, COR. 50 sts active.**

---

#### Crown Stage 3: RC039 → RC041 (50 sts → 40 sts)

**Transfer: Move every 5th active stitch to its left neighbor.**

- Identify the 5th, 10th, 15th, 20th, 25th, 30th, 35th, 40th, 45th, and 50th active needles from the left.
- Transfer each to its left neighbor. Push empties to NWP.
- **Remaining active sts: 40.** *(Math: 50 − 10 = 40 ✅)*
- Knit **2 rows** at T6: COR→COL (RC040), COL→COR (RC041).
- **RC041, COR. 40 sts active.**

---

#### Crown Stage 4: RC041 → RC043 (40 sts → 30 sts)

**Transfer: Move every 4th active stitch to its left neighbor.**

- Identify the 4th, 8th, 12th, 16th, 20th, 24th, 28th, 32nd, 36th, and 40th active needles from the left.
- Transfer each to its left neighbor. Push empties to NWP.
- **Remaining active sts: 30.** *(Math: 40 − 10 = 30 ✅)*
- Knit **2 rows** at T6: COR→COL (RC042), COL→COR (RC043).
- **RC043, COR. 30 sts active.**

---

#### Crown Stage 5: RC043 → RC045 (30 sts → 20 sts)

**Transfer: Move every 3rd active stitch to its left neighbor.**

- Identify the 3rd, 6th, 9th, 12th, 15th, 18th, 21st, 24th, 27th, and 30th active needles from the left.
- Transfer each to its left neighbor. Push empties to NWP.
- **Remaining active sts: 20.** *(Math: 30 − 10 = 20 ✅)*
- Knit **2 rows** at T6: COR→COL (RC044), COL→COR (RC045).
- **RC045, COR. 20 sts active.**

---

#### Crown Stage 6: Gather and Remove (20 sts)

**Do NOT knit additional rows after Stage 5.**

- Cut MC, leaving a tail of approximately **24 in (61 cm).** This long tail is used to gather and close the crown.
- Thread the 24 in tail onto a tapestry needle.
- Working from **right to left**, slide the tapestry needle through each of the **20 live loops** on the active needles, going through each loop **without removing them from the machine yet.**
- Once all 20 loops are threaded onto the yarn tail, gently remove the knitting from the machine needle by needle, allowing each loop to slide off onto the gathering yarn.
- Pull the tail firmly to **gather the crown closed.** Pull until no gap remains at the center top.
- Run the needle through the gathered loops **a second time** in a circle, then pull tight again to secure.
- Pass the tail to the wrong side (inside of the hat) and weave in securely.

> **Crown complete.** The knitted fabric should now be a flat rectangle with the gathered crown at the top.

---

### 6.3 Standard-Gauge Crown (80 sts → 20 sts — 6 stages)

> **⬛ STANDARD GAUGE NOTE:**

| Stage | Active Sts (Start) | Transfer Every | Active Sts (End) | Rows After Transfer |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 (at RC044) | 80 | 8th | 70 | 4 rows → RC048 |
| 2 | 70 | 7th | 60 | 3 rows → RC051 |
| 3 | 60 | 6th | 50 | 2 rows → RC053 |
| 4 | 50 | 5th | 40 | 2 rows → RC055 |
| 5 | 40 | 4th | 30 | 2 rows → RC057 |
| 6 | 30 | 3rd | 20 | 2 rows → RC059 |
| Gather | 20 | — | — | Thread and remove |

*Math check: 80→70→60→50→40→30→20. Each stage removes 10 sts. Total removed: 60. 80−60 = 20. ✅*

---

## SECTION 7 — FINISHING

### 7.1 Remove Waste Yarn and Ravel Cord

- Turn the flat, gathered piece so the **wrong side faces you.**
- Locate the ravel cord row at the cast-on edge (bottom of brim).
- Gently pull one end of the ravel cord — it should slide out cleanly, releasing the waste yarn from the live brim stitches. The waste yarn section will fall away.
- **70 live loops** remain at the brim edge. *(S/M: 64 loops)*
  - These loops do not need to be bound off — they will be secured by the back seam and the folded-up rib.
  - If desired, thread a length of MC through these live loops for a clean invisible finish before seaming, or leave them live and work into them when seaming.

---

### 7.2 Back Seam (Mattress Stitch)

- With right sides facing outward, bring the left and right selvedge edges of the flat piece together, aligning row by row.
- Thread a tapestry needle with a length of MC approximately **18 in (46 cm).**
- Beginning at the **crown gather** (top), work **mattress stitch** downward along the full length of the back seam, through the selvedge edge bars of each row.
  - Pick up the horizontal bar between the 1st and 2nd stitch on one edge, then the corresponding bar on the opposite edge; alternate side to side, pulling gently to close the seam without drawing it too tight.
  - Color-change tails may be worked into the seam as you go to reduce weaving-in.
- Continue mattress stitch down through the rib section all the way to the cast-on edge.
- Weave in the seaming tail securely on the wrong side (inside of hat).

> **Tip:** The back seam in a machine-knit beanie should be virtually invisible on the right side if mattress stitch is worked precisely into the edge bars.

---

### 7.3 Duplicate Stitch — Plaid Vertical Lines

This step transforms the horizontal stripes into a **plaid pattern** by adding vertical lines at regular intervals across the body.

**Preparation:**
- Turn the seamed hat right side out. Lay flat with the back seam centered at back.
- Identify the **6 vertical line positions** (marked earlier with stitch clips): stitches approximately at the **10th, 20th, 30th, 40th, 50th, and 60th** stitch positions from the back seam, working around the circumference.
  - Spacing: approximately **3 in (7.5 cm) apart** at mid-gauge gauge.
- Assign colors to alternating lines:
  - Positions 10, 30, 50: **CC1 (Color B)**
  - Positions 20, 40, 60: **CC2 (Color C)**

**How to work duplicate stitch on a V-stitch knit fabric:**
1. Thread tapestry needle with CC1 or CC2. Do not knot.
2. Bring needle up through center of a stitch at the **bottom of the hat body** (just above rib, at row RC001).
3. Insert needle under **both legs of the stitch directly above** (going right to left under the V), then back down through the center of the original stitch.
4. The original stitch is now covered with the new color.
5. Continue **directly upward**, working each stitch in the same column, through the body rows, all the way to the last body row before the crown shaping (approximately 32 stitches tall).
6. Weave tails in on the wrong side.

> **Plaid grid result:** The combination of horizontal color-stripe bands and vertical duplicate-stitch lines creates a woven-plaid appearance with the color grid of a classic tartan sett.

---

### 7.4 Steam Blocking

- Place the beanie on a **head-shaped blocking form** (a balloon inflated to head size works well, as does a rolled towel or the bottom of a round bowl).
- Pin brim edge down lightly if it curls.
- Using a steam iron or garment steamer, **hover steam 1–2 inches (2.5–5 cm) above the surface** — do not press iron directly onto the fabric.
- Steam all surfaces evenly, paying extra attention to the back seam and the crown gather.
- Allow to **cool completely** before removing from form (minimum 30 minutes).
- The ribbed brim should relax and retain gentle stretch without looking overstretched.

---

### 7.5 Pom-Pom (Optional)

- Using a **2.5 in (6.5 cm) pom-pom maker**, wind a combination of MC, CC1, and CC2 to create a multi-color "plaid pom" that reflects the hat's color scheme.
  - Suggested winding: 60% MC, 20% CC1, 20% CC2.
- Tie off securely with a doubled length of MC.
- Attach to crown gather using the MC tails — run them through the center of the crown gather several times and tie off on the inside.
- Trim pom-pom to a neat sphere, approximately **2–2.5 in (5–6.5 cm)** diameter.

---

### 7.6 Final Finishing Checklist

- [ ] All yarn tails woven in (minimum 1.5 in / 4 cm on wrong side)
- [ ] Back seam closed from crown to cast-on edge
- [ ] Crown gather pulled tight, no gap at top
- [ ] Duplicate stitch vertical lines worked at all 6 positions
- [ ] Hat steamed and blocked
- [ ] Pom-pom attached (if desired)
- [ ] All marker clips removed

---

## SECTION 8 — ABBREVIATIONS

| Abbreviation | Definition |
|---|---|
| **A pos / NWP** | A position (forward rest) — needle out of working position, no knitting |
| **B pos / WP** | B position (working position) — needle in work, knitting normally |
| **D pos / HP** | D position (hold) — needle out past gate pegs, held stitches do not knit |
| **CC1** | Contrast Color 1 (Color B in yarn chart) |
| **CC2** | Contrast Color 2 (Color C in yarn chart) |
| **COL** | Carriage on Left — carriage is positioned at the left end of the bed |
| **COR** | Carriage on Right — carriage is positioned at the right end of the bed |
| **k2tog** | Knit two together (transfer stitch and knit as one) |
| **MC** | Main Color (Color A in yarn chart) |
| **NWP** | Non-Working Position (same as A position) |
| **OOW** | Out of Work — needle moved to NWP, no longer knitting |
| **RC** | Row Counter — the row number displayed on the machine counter |
| **RC000** | Row counter reset to zero (starting point for a new section) |
| **T#** | Tension dial setting (e.g., T6 = dial at number 6) |
| **WY** | Waste Yarn — a sacrificial yarn used during setup, removed after |
| **1×1 rib** | Alternating knit and purl columns; requires ribber or manual rearrangement |
| **Full-fashion decrease** | A shapings method using transfer tools to move stitches and reduce needle count |
| **Latch tool** | A hook-like hand tool used to bind off, pick up dropped stitches, or manually knit |
| **Transfer tool** | 1-, 2-, or 3-prong tool used to move stitches between needles |
| **Ravel cord** | A smooth, strong cord placed before cast-on to allow easy removal of waste yarn |
| **Cast-on comb** | A weighted comb hung below the knitting during cast-on to hold stitches evenly |
| **Claw weights** | Small clamp-style weights clipped to the fabric to maintain downward tension |
| **Duplicate stitch** | An embroidery stitch worked over existing knit stitches to add a second color |
| **Mattress stitch** | A nearly invisible seaming method worked through selvedge edge bars |
| **Steam block** | Finishing method using steam to relax and set the knitted fabric |
| **Selvedge edge** | The side edge of a flat piece of knitting; the outermost stitch column |

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## QUICK REFERENCE CHART

| Section | RC Start | RC End | Color | Sts | Tension |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Waste yarn | — | ~RC008 | Waste | 70 | T5/T5 |
| Ravel cord | RC008 | RC009 | Cord | 70 | T5/T5 |
| Rib brim | RC000 | RC012 | MC | 70 | T5/T5 |
| Body stripe repeat 1 | RC000 | RC012 | MC/CC1/CC2 | 70 | T6 |
| Body stripe repeat 2 | RC012 | RC024 | MC/CC1/CC2 | 70 | T6 |
| MC finish section | RC024 | RC032 | MC | 70 | T6 |
| Crown Stage 1 | RC032 | RC036 | MC | 70→60 | T6 |
| Crown Stage 2 | RC036 | RC039 | MC | 60→50 | T6 |
| Crown Stage 3 | RC039 | RC041 | MC | 50→40 | T6 |
| Crown Stage 4 | RC041 | RC043 | MC | 40→30 | T6 |
| Crown Stage 5 | RC043 | RC045 | MC | 30→20 | T6 |
| Crown gather | RC045 | — | MC | 20→0 | — |

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*Pattern version 1.0 | Technical editing verified | All stitch counts and row counts internally consistent.*
*Designed for flatbed knitting machines. Not for use on circular knitting machines without modification.*