Inishmaan Aran Cardigan

Seamless top-down raglan cardigan with honeycomb and rope cables

A hip-length, worsted-weight Aran cardigan worked in one piece from the neck down. The yoke is moss stitch with raglan increases; after the underarm split, classic 8-st honeycomb and 6-st rope cables run down both fronts, the back and the sleeves, with moss stitch at the sides. Button bands and neckband are picked up and worked in 2×2 rib.

Skill level: Intermediate (raglan shaping, cables, moss stitch, picking up stitches, buttonholes).

Terminology: UK English. Moss stitch is the 2-row textured stitch (US seed stitch). Cast off is used throughout.

Sizes

Small (Medium, Large, XL, 2XL)

To fit bust: 86–91 (97–102, 107–112, 117–122, 127–132) cm / 34–36 (38–40, 42–44, 46–48, 50–52) in

Shown with approximately 8–12 cm (3–5 in) positive ease at the bust before blocking; wet-block to the schematic so the cables open and the listed finished measurements (about 5–10 cm / 2–4 in ease) are achieved.

Finished measurements (after blocking, buttoned)

Choose the size whose to-fit bust is closest to your actual bust. For a closer Aran, choose the smaller size if you are between sizes; for a traditional roomy fisherman’s fit, choose the larger.

Yarn

Worsted / Aran-weight wool (10-ply), 180–200 m per 100 g, with crisp stitch definition.

Approx. metreage: 1300 (1450, 1650, 1850, 2050) m
Approx. 100 g balls: 7 (8, 9, 10, 11) (based on 190 m per 100 g)

Traditional colour: natural cream (báinín), oatmeal, or a heathered grey. Solid or lightly heathered yarns show cables best.

Needles & notions

• 4.5 mm circular needle, 80–100 cm, for the yoke and body
• 4 mm circular needle, 80–100 cm, for ribbing
• 4.5 mm double-pointed needles, or a second circular / short circular, for sleeves
• 4 mm double-pointed needles (or magic loop) for cuffs
• Cable needle
• 4 stitch markers for raglans, plus 6 extra for Aran panels (and 1 for sleeve beginning of round)
• Waste yarn or extra cables for holding sleeve stitches
• Tapestry needle
• 7 buttons, 20–23 mm diameter

Change needle size if needed to obtain tension.

Tension

20 stitches and 28 rows = 10 cm (4 in) over moss stitch on 4.5 mm needles, after blocking.

Work a swatch at least 15 cm square. Wash and block it before measuring.

Cables draw the fabric in until it is blocked. A 24-st Aran panel (6-st rope, 2 purl, 8-st honeycomb, 2 purl, 6-st rope) measures approximately 10 cm after blocking. Block the finished garment to the schematic measurements — this is essential for fit.

Abbreviations

k — knit
p — purl
st(s) — stitch(es)
RS / WS — right side / wrong side
pm / sm — place marker / slip marker
M1R — make 1 right: lift the strand between needles from back to front, knit into the front of it (right-leaning)
M1L — make 1 left: lift the strand between needles from front to back, knit into the back of it (left-leaning)
k2tog — knit 2 together (right-leaning decrease)
ssk — slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
C4B — slip 2 sts to cable needle, hold at back, k2, k2 from cable needle
C4F — slip 2 sts to cable needle, hold at front, k2, k2 from cable needle
C6B — slip 3 sts to cable needle, hold at back, k3, k3 from cable needle
C6F — slip 3 sts to cable needle, hold at front, k3, k3 from cable needle
patt — pattern
rep — repeat
rem — remaining
cont — continue
rnd(s) — round(s)
cn — cable needle
CO — cast on
st st — stocking stitch (k on RS, p on WS; k every rnd in the round)

Stitch patterns

Moss stitch (worked flat)

Over any number of stitches. Row 1 (RS): *K1, p1; rep from * to last st if odd, k1.
Row 2 (WS): Knit the purl sts and purl the knit sts as they face you (each stitch is worked the opposite of how it presents).

In other words, knits sit on purls and purls sit on knits every row.

Moss stitch (in the round)

Rnd 1: *K1, p1; rep from * to end.
Rnd 2: *P1, k1; rep from * to end.
Rep Rnds 1–2.

Work increased or decreased stitches into moss as they occur.

6-st Left Rope (LC6) — worked flat

Over 6 sts; 8-row repeat, always beginning on a RS row.
Row 1 (RS): C6F.
Row 2 and all WS rows: P6.
Rows 3, 5 and 7: K6.
Row 8: P6.
Rep Rows 1–8.

6-st Right Rope (RC6) — worked flat

Row 1 (RS): C6B.
Row 2 and all WS rows: P6.
Rows 3, 5 and 7: K6.
Row 8: P6.
Rep Rows 1–8.

8-st Honeycomb (HC8) — worked flat

Over 8 sts; 8-row repeat.
Row 1 (RS): C4B, C4F.
Row 2 and all WS rows: P8.
Row 3: K8.
Row 5: C4F, C4B.
Row 7: K8.
Row 8: P8.
Rep Rows 1–8.

Reverse stocking valleys

RS: P2. WS: K2.

All cables share the same 8-row rhythm so they stay aligned. Row 1 of every cable is always a RS row.

Cables in the round (sleeves)

Stocking stitch becomes knit every round:
LC6 / RC6: Rnd 1 C6F or C6B; Rnds 2–8 k6.
HC8: Rnd 1 C4B, C4F; Rnds 2–4 k8; Rnd 5 C4F, C4B; Rnds 6–8 k8.

Pattern notes

• The cardigan is worked flat from the neck to the hem (circular needle used to hold the stitches). Sleeves are worked in the round.
• Sizes are written S (M, L, XL, 2XL). Where only one number is given, it applies to all sizes.
• Four raglan markers divide the row: Right Front | Sleeve | Back | Sleeve | Left Front. The right front is the beginning of the RS row (right front as worn).
• Increased stitches are worked into moss stitch on the following rows.
• After the underarm split, panel markers isolate the Aran panels. Outside those markers, work moss; inside them, work the cable panels as written.
• Buttonholes are given for the right front as worn (traditional women’s / unisex). For a men’s cardigan, work the buttonholes on the left front instead.
• Cast on firmly but not tightly; the neckband is picked up from this edge later.

Yoke

With 4.5 mm circular needle and using a long-tail cast-on, CO 92 (104, 116, 128, 140) sts, placing markers as you go:

CO 18 (20, 22, 25, 28) sts, pm,
CO 10 (12, 12, 14, 16) sts, pm,
CO 36 (40, 48, 50, 52) sts, pm,
CO 10 (12, 12, 14, 16) sts, pm,
CO 18 (20, 22, 25, 28) sts.

92 (104, 116, 128, 140) sts ✓

Do not join. Work flat.

Raglan Increase Row (RS): *Work in moss stitch to marker, M1R, sm, M1L; rep from * 3 more times, moss to end.
(8 sts increased — 2 at each raglan line)

WS: Work in moss stitch, working the new stitches into moss as they present on the following rows.

Rep the last 2 rows 25 (27, 27, 28, 29) more times — 26 (28, 28, 29, 30) Raglan Increase Rows in total.

Checkpoint after all raglan increases (8 sts × 26 (28, 28, 29, 30) = 208 (224, 224, 232, 240) sts increased):

Totals:
S: 92 + 208 = 300 (44 + 62 + 88 + 62 + 44 = 300 ✓)
M: 104 + 224 = 328 (48 + 68 + 96 + 68 + 48 = 328 ✓)
L: 116 + 224 = 340 (50 + 68 + 104 + 68 + 50 = 340 ✓)
XL: 128 + 232 = 360 (54 + 72 + 108 + 72 + 54 = 360 ✓)
2XL: 140 + 240 = 380 (58 + 76 + 112 + 76 + 58 = 380 ✓)

Body-only increases (sizes M, L, XL and 2XL)

These add width to the fronts and back only, so the sleeves do not grow further.

Body Increase Row (RS):
Moss to marker, M1R, sm, moss across sleeve, sm, M1L,
moss across back to next marker, M1R, sm, moss across sleeve, sm, M1L,
moss to end.
(4 sts increased: +1 each front, +2 back)

WS: Moss.

Work Body Increase Row every RS row 0 (2, 4, 6, 8) times.
(S skips this step.)

Checkpoint after body-only increases:

M: 328 + 8 = 336 (50 + 68 + 100 + 68 + 50 = 336 ✓)
L: 340 + 16 = 356 (54 + 68 + 112 + 68 + 54 = 356 ✓)
XL: 360 + 24 = 384 (60 + 72 + 120 + 72 + 60 = 384 ✓)
2XL: 380 + 32 = 412 (66 + 76 + 128 + 76 + 66 = 412 ✓)

Work 4 (0, 0, 0, 0) rows straight in moss (no increases).
Yoke should measure approximately 20 (21.5, 23, 25, 27) cm from the cast-on edge at the centre back. If it is short of depth, work extra even rows in moss before dividing; if it is already deep enough, divide on the next RS row even if a few even rows remain.

Divide for body and sleeves

Next row (RS) — Divide:
Work in moss across 44 (50, 54, 60, 66) right-front sts,
slip next 62 (68, 68, 72, 76) sleeve sts to waste yarn,
using the backward-loop (or knitted) method CO 4 (4, 5, 6, 7) sts, pm for right side, CO 4 (4, 5, 6, 7) sts,
work in moss across 88 (100, 112, 120, 128) back sts,
slip next 62 (68, 68, 72, 76) sleeve sts to waste yarn,
CO 4 (4, 5, 6, 7) sts, pm for left side, CO 4 (4, 5, 6, 7) sts,
work in moss across remaining 44 (50, 54, 60, 66) left-front sts.

Body sts on needle:
44 + 8 + 88 + 8 + 44 = 192 (S)
50 + 8 + 100 + 8 + 50 = 216 (M)
54 + 10 + 112 + 10 + 54 = 240 (L)
60 + 12 + 120 + 12 + 60 = 264 (XL)
66 + 14 + 128 + 14 + 66 = 288 (2XL) ✓

Underarm cast-on each side: 8 (8, 10, 12, 14) sts. Side markers sit at the centre of each underarm.

WS: Work 1 row in moss, slipping side markers.

Body

Establish the Aran panels on the next RS row. All cables begin on Row 1 of their 8-row repeats and stay in step.

Aran Set-up Row (RS):

Right front (centre front to right side marker):
Work 4 sts moss, pm,
work Row 1 of LC6, p2, Row 1 of HC8, p2, Row 1 of RC6, pm,
moss to side marker, sm.

Back:
Moss 26 (32, 39, 44, 49) sts, pm,
work Row 1 of LC6, p2, Row 1 of HC8, p2, Row 1 of HC8, p2, Row 1 of HC8, p2, Row 1 of RC6, pm,
moss 26 (32, 39, 44, 49) sts, sm.

Left front (left side marker to centre front):
Moss to 28 sts before end, pm,
work Row 1 of LC6, p2, Row 1 of HC8, p2, Row 1 of RC6, pm,
work 4 sts moss.

Panel-count check (RS, between panel markers):
Each front panel = 6 + 2 + 8 + 2 + 6 = 24 sts ✓
Back panel = 6 + 2 + 8 + 2 + 8 + 2 + 8 + 2 + 6 = 44 sts ✓

Fronts including half underarm: 48 (54, 59, 66, 73)
4 moss + 24 panel + remaining moss 20 (26, 31, 38, 45) = 48 (54, 59, 66, 73) ✓
Back: 26 (32, 39, 44, 49) + 44 + 26 (32, 39, 44, 49) = 96 (108, 122, 132, 142) ✓
96 + 48 + 48 = 192; 108 + 54 + 54 = 216; 122 + 59 + 59 = 240; 132 + 66 + 66 = 264; 142 + 73 + 73 = 288 ✓

WS rows: Work moss outside the panel markers. Inside the panel markers, work the WS row of each cable (purl the cable sts; knit the 2-st valleys).

RS rows: Work moss outside the panel markers. Inside the panel markers, work the next RS row of LC6, p2, HC8, p2, (HC8, p2 as needed), RC6.

Continue in pattern until the body measures 38 (40, 42, 43, 44) cm from the underarm, ending with Row 8 of the cable patterns (WS). Adjust by a few rows if needed so you end on Row 8.

Hem

Change to 4 mm circular needle.

Next row (RS): K2, *p2, k2; rep from * to end.
(192, 216, 240, 264, 288 are all multiples of 4, so both front edges are k2 on RS ✓)

Cont in 2×2 rib until hem measures 6 cm.
Cast off loosely in rib.

Sleeves

Work both sleeves alike.

With 4.5 mm dpns (or magic loop) and RS facing, beginning at the centre of the underarm cast-on (the side marker position):

Pick up and knit 4 (4, 5, 6, 7) sts from the first half of the underarm,
knit across 62 (68, 68, 72, 76) held sleeve sts,
pick up and knit 4 (4, 5, 6, 7) sts from the second half of the underarm.
Pm for beginning of round.

70 (76, 78, 84, 90) sts ✓
(62 + 8 = 70; 68 + 8 = 76; 68 + 10 = 78; 72 + 12 = 84; 76 + 14 = 90)

If a small hole appears at either underarm corner, pick up 1 extra st there and decrease it away on the next round (k2tog at that point). Do not change the round count used below.

Set-up rnd:
Work 23 (26, 27, 30, 33) sts in moss, pm,
work Rnd 1 of LC6, p2, Rnd 1 of HC8, p2, Rnd 1 of RC6, pm,
work 23 (26, 27, 30, 33) sts in moss.

24-st sleeve panel + moss 23 (26, 27, 30, 33) each side = 70 (76, 78, 84, 90) ✓

Work 3 more rounds in established pattern (moss + cables), keeping the 8-round cable rhythm.

Sleeve shaping

Keep the 24-st cable panel untouched. Decreases are worked in the moss at the underarm only.

Dec rnd: K2tog (or p2tog if needed to keep moss), work in patt to last 2 sts, ssk (or p2tog to keep moss). 2 sts decreased.

Work Dec rnd every 6th (6th, 6th, 5th, 5th) round 15 (16, 17, 18, 21) times.

Stitch count after decreases:
S: 70 − 30 = 40 (15 × 2 = 30; moss each side 23 − 15 = 8; 8 + 24 + 8 = 40 ✓)
M: 76 − 32 = 44 (16 × 2 = 32; moss 26 − 16 = 10; 10 + 24 + 10 = 44 ✓)
L: 78 − 34 = 44 (17 × 2 = 34; moss 27 − 17 = 10; 10 + 24 + 10 = 44 ✓)
XL: 84 − 36 = 48 (18 × 2 = 36; moss 30 − 18 = 12; 12 + 24 + 12 = 48 ✓)
2XL: 90 − 42 = 48 (21 × 2 = 42; moss 33 − 21 = 12; 12 + 24 + 12 = 48 ✓)

Continue straight in pattern until the sleeve measures 36 (37, 38, 38, 39) cm from the underarm, ending after Rnd 8 of the cables if possible.

Cuff

Change to 4 mm needles.

Work in k2, p2 rib for 8 cm.
40 (44, 44, 48, 48) sts are all multiples of 4 ✓

Cast off loosely in rib.

Button bands

Bands are worked on 4 mm needles in 2×2 rib over 8 sts (approximately 3.5 cm wide). Pick up at a rate of 3 stitches for every 4 rows along the front edge, then adjust on the next row if needed so the count is a multiple of 4.

Expected pick-up (multiple of 4): 136 (144, 152, 156, 164) sts.

Right front band (buttonholes — as worn)

With RS facing, 4 mm needle and beginning at the hem, pick up and knit 136 (144, 152, 156, 164) sts evenly up the right front edge to the neck.

Row 1 (WS): *P2, k2; rep from * to end.
Row 2 (RS): *P2, k2; rep from * to end.
(If your pick-up does not start neatly on p2, shift the rib by 1 st so both long edges of the band are tidy.)

Work 1 more row in rib as set.

Buttonhole row (RS): Work 7 buttonholes evenly along the band, with the first 2 cm from the neck edge and the last 2 cm from the hem. Remaining 5 buttonholes are spaced evenly between them (approximately 10 (10.5, 11, 11.5, 12) cm apart).

Buttonhole: On a k2 column of the rib, work k2tog, yo. On the next row, work the yo in rib as it presents (knit or purl to keep 2×2).

Work 4 more rows in rib (band measures approximately 3.5 cm).
Cast off in rib.

Left front band

With RS facing, 4 mm needle and beginning at the neck, pick up and knit the same number of sts evenly down the left front edge to the hem.

Work in 2×2 rib to match the right band, omitting buttonholes.
Cast off in rib.

(Men’s cardigan: work buttonholes on this left band and omit them on the right.)

Neckband

With RS facing, 4 mm circular needle and beginning at the top of the right button band, pick up and knit:

• 4 sts across the top of the right band,
• 1 st in each original neck cast-on st — 92 (104, 116, 128, 140) sts,
• 4 sts across the top of the left band.

100 (112, 124, 136, 148) sts.
All are multiples of 4 ✓
(92 + 8 = 100; 104 + 8 = 112; 116 + 8 = 124; 128 + 8 = 136; 140 + 8 = 148)

If the neck edge looks gappy at the raglan corners, pick up 1 extra st in each corner and decrease it on the next row (k2tog) so the multiple of 4 is kept.

Work in k2, p2 rib for 2.5 cm.
Cast off loosely in rib.

Optional patch pockets (make 2)

Classic on an Aran cardigan; sew on after blocking.

With 4.5 mm needles, CO 28 sts.
Row 1 (RS): Moss 4, pm, Row 1 of LC6, p2, Row 1 of HC8, p2, Row 1 of RC6, pm, moss 4.
(4 + 24 + 4 = 28 ✓)

Cont in patt until pocket measures 14 cm from cast-on, ending after Row 8.
Change to 4 mm. Work 2.5 cm in k2, p2 rib. Cast off in rib.

Block pockets. Sew in place on each front, centred on the Aran panel, with the top of the rib about 6–8 cm above the body hem.

Finishing

1. Weave in all ends, closing any small underarm gaps with the tail.
2. Wet-block the cardigan to the schematic measurements. Pin the bust, length and sleeves out; do not overstretch the cables — they should look round and three-dimensional, not flat. Allow to dry completely.
3. Sew buttons to the left front band (as worn), opposite the buttonholes.
4. Sew on optional pockets if using.

Schematic (after blocking)

                    ◄── back neck, approx 18 (20, 24, 25, 26) cm ──►
                   ________________________________
                  /     raglan         raglan      \
                 /                                  \
                /          YOKE                      \
               /    20 (21.5, 23, 25, 27) cm          \
              /________________________________________\
             |  underarm   BODY    underarm            |
             |                                         |
             |   bust, buttoned:                       |
             |   99.5 (111.5, 123.5, 135.5, 147.5) cm  |
             |                                         |
             |   body 38 (40, 42, 43, 44) cm           |
             |   + 6 cm rib                            |
             |_________________________________________|
                              hem

Sleeves: 44 (45, 46, 46, 47) cm from underarm, including 8 cm cuff.
Upper arm 35 (38, 39, 42, 45) cm, tapering to cuff.
Total back length 64 (67.5, 71, 74, 77) cm.

Stitch map (body, RS)

RIGHT FRONT              BACK                         LEFT FRONT
| moss 4 | LC6 | p2 | HC8 | p2 | RC6 | moss |  ||  moss | LC6 | p2 | HC8 | p2 | HC8 | p2 | HC8 | p2 | RC6 | moss |  ||  moss | LC6 | p2 | HC8 | p2 | RC6 | moss 4 |
         ←———— 24-st panel ————→                       ←———————————— 44-st panel ————————————→                       ←———— 24-st panel ————→

Sleeve: moss | LC6 | p2 | HC8 | p2 | RC6 | moss (24-st panel centred).

Block, wear, and let the cables bloom.