purlJam

---

# KEIKO: KNITTED ORCA AMIGURUMI
### *Inspired by Anneliese Juergensen's 2014 Orca Painting*

---

## ABOUT THIS PATTERN

This soft, huggable orca toy captures the bold beauty of Anneliese Juergensen's 2014 orca painting — the sleek black body, the brilliant white belly, the distinctive white eye patch, and the pale saddle patch that glows behind the tall dorsal fin. Worked in the round in smooth worsted-weight yarn, Keiko is a wonderful first amigurumi project for a beginning knitter who knows basic increases and decreases.

**Finished Size:** Approximately 12 inches (30.5 cm) long from snout to tail tip × 4 inches (10 cm) tall at the dorsal fin

**Difficulty:** Beginner

---

## MATERIALS

### Yarn
- **Color A (Black):** Worsted weight, approx. 200 yards (183 m)
  *(e.g., Lion Brand Fishermen's Wool, Cascade 220, or similar)*
- **Color B (White):** Worsted weight, approx. 80 yards (73 m)
- **Color C (Light Gray):** Worsted weight, approx. 20 yards (18 m)
  *(For the saddle patch — a soft, cool gray as seen in Juergensen's painting)*

> **Yarn Note:** Choose a smooth, tightly plied worsted. Avoid fluffy or bouclé textures, which will obscure the crisp color patches.

### Needles
- US 7 / 4.5 mm double-pointed needles (DPNs), set of 5
  *(Or US 7 / 4.5 mm circular needle, 32 inches (80 cm), for Magic Loop method)*

### Notions
- Stitch markers (at least 4)
- Tapestry needle
- Polyester fiberfill stuffing
- Safety eyes, 12 mm black (x2) — **OR** black embroidery floss for embroidered eyes (recommended for children under 3)
- Small piece of thin cardboard or plastic canvas (for dorsal fin stiffening)
- Scissors
- Row counter (optional but helpful)

---

## GAUGE

**20 stitches × 28 rounds = 4 inches (10 cm)** in stockinette stitch worked in the round, after blocking.

> ⚠️ **Gauge matters for this project.** If your gauge is off, your finished orca will be a different size, which may affect how the pieces fit together. Knit a gauge swatch before beginning.

---

## ABBREVIATIONS

| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| CO | Cast on |
| BO | Bind off |
| k | Knit |
| p | Purl |
| k2tog | Knit 2 stitches together (right-leaning decrease) |
| ssk | Slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease) |
| kfb | Knit into the front and back of stitch (increase) |
| pm | Place marker |
| sm | Slip marker |
| rnd(s) | Round(s) |
| st(s) | Stitch(es) |
| MC | Main color (Black = Color A) |
| CC1 | Contrast color 1 (White = Color B) |
| CC2 | Contrast color 2 (Light Gray = Color C) |
| RS | Right side |
| WS | Wrong side |

---

## SPECIAL TECHNIQUES

### Working in the Round on DPNs (Beginner Tip)
Distribute stitches evenly across 4 needles and use the 5th needle to knit. Always knit every round for stockinette when working in the round.

### Jogless Color Change
When switching colors in the round:
1. On the first round of the new color, knit all stitches normally.
2. At the start of the *second* round in the new color, lift the right leg of the stitch from the row below onto the left needle and knit it together with the first stitch.
This eliminates the visible "jog" at the color join.

### Invisible Cast-On / Judy's Magic Cast-On (Optional)
For the snout tip, a Magic Cast-On gives the neatest closed beginning. Instructions are widely available online. Alternatively, use the simple method described below.

---

## COLOR MAP (Reference Juergensen's Painting)

Before beginning, review this color placement guide:

- **Black (Color A):** Entire top of body, back, head, and all fins
- **White (Color B):** Underside/belly from chin to tail, white oval eye patch above and behind each eye, and the lower lobe of the tail flukes
- **Light Gray (Color C):** Saddle patch — an elongated oval behind the dorsal fin on the back

---

## PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS

---

### PIECE 1: BODY & HEAD (Worked as one piece, nose to tail)

The body is the main piece. You will begin at the snout (nose tip), increase to the full body width, work the midsection, then decrease back down to a narrow tail stock where the flukes will be attached.

**Color Note for Body:** The underside is white; the top is black. Because we are working in the round, you will carry both colors and knit each round in the appropriate color per stitch *only if you are comfortable with two-color knitting.* 

> **Beginner Simplification:** For ease, knit the entire body in **Black (Color A)**, then use **White (Color B)** duplicate stitch or intarsia flat panels sewn on for the belly patch. Full instructions for both approaches are given. **The simplified method is recommended for beginners.**

---

#### BODY: SIMPLIFIED METHOD (Recommended for Beginners)

**SNOUT (Nose Tip)**

Using Color A (Black) and DPNs, CO 8 sts using long-tail cast-on.
Distribute: 2 sts on each of 4 needles.
Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist. Pm for beginning of round (BOR).

**Round 1:** K all 8 sts.
**Round 2 (Increase):** *Kfb* in each st — **16 sts** (4 sts per needle).
**Round 3:** K all.
**Round 4 (Increase):** *[Kfb, k1]* repeat to end — **24 sts** (6 sts per needle).
**Round 5:** K all.
**Round 6 (Increase):** *[Kfb, k2]* repeat to end — **32 sts** (8 sts per needle).

> ✅ **Stitch Check:** You now have **32 sts** on your needles. This is the widest point of the body (approx. 6.4 inches / 16 cm circumference).

---

**HEAD & UPPER BODY**

Work even (knit every round) in Color A for **28 rounds** (approximately 4 inches / 10 cm).

> 📍 **Marker Note:** After 14 rounds of even knitting (halfway through this section), place a contrasting marker. This marks the approximate center of the head, where the eye will later be placed.

---

**EYE PATCH PLACEMENT MARKER**

At round 14 of the even section:
- Using a safety pin or split-ring marker, mark stitch #4 on needle 1 as the **right eye patch center**.
- Mark stitch #4 on needle 3 (the stitch directly opposite) as the **left eye patch center**.

These markers are for reference during finishing only. Continue knitting.

---

**MID-BODY**

Continue working even in Color A for an additional **20 rounds** (approximately 2.9 inches / 7.3 cm).

> ✅ You have now worked 48 total even rounds since the final increase round. Total length from cast-on tip: approx. 7.5 inches (19 cm).

---

**SADDLE PATCH SECTION**

The saddle patch (Color C, Light Gray) sits on the back of the orca, just behind where the dorsal fin will attach. This is worked in flat duplicate stitch after finishing, but its location is marked now.

Place a stitch marker at stitch #1 (top of body, BOR) — this marks the **dorsal fin attachment point**. The saddle patch will span approximately 8 stitches wide × 6 rounds tall centered on this marker. Mark with a safety pin for reference.

Continue working even in Color A for **8 more rounds**.

---

**TAIL STOCK (Narrowing)**

Begin decreasing to form the narrow tail stock.

**Round 1 (Decrease):** *[K2tog, k6]* repeat to end — **28 sts**.
**Rounds 2–3:** K all.
**Round 4 (Decrease):** *[K2tog, k5]* repeat to end — **24 sts**.
**Rounds 5–6:** K all.
**Round 7 (Decrease):** *[K2tog, k4]* repeat to end — **20 sts**.
**Rounds 8–9:** K all.
**Round 10 (Decrease):** *[K2tog, k3]* repeat to end — **16 sts**.
**Rounds 11–12:** K all.
**Round 13 (Decrease):** *[K2tog, k2]* repeat to end — **12 sts**.
**Rounds 14–16:** K all.

> ✅ **Stitch Check:** You now have **12 sts**. The tail stock is approximately 1.25 inches (3 cm) in circumference — correct for attaching the flukes.

---

**FINISHING THE TAIL STOCK**

*Do not bind off yet.* Stuff the body firmly but not so tightly that the fabric stretches and shows white fiberfill. Leave the last 1 inch (2.5 cm) of tail stock unstuffed (the flukes will close this end).

Using Kitchener stitch or a three-needle bind-off, close the tail end flat by first rearranging sts: place 6 sts on one needle and 6 sts on a second needle so the top and bottom of the tail stock are separated. Graft or bind off together. This creates a flat base for the flukes.

---

### PIECE 2: TAIL FLUKES (Make 2 — one left, one right)

The tail flukes are worked flat, back and forth in rows, then seamed along the straight edge to the tail stock.

Using Color B (White) for the underside lobe and Color A (Black) for the top:

> **Beginner Simplification:** Work both flukes entirely in **Color A (Black)**. After assembly, use **Color B (White)** to duplicate stitch the white lower lobe (the crescent-shaped lower edge of each fluke).

**Using Color A (Black):**

CO 16 sts using long-tail cast-on.

**Row 1 (RS):** K all.
**Row 2 (WS):** P all.
**Row 3:** Ssk, k12, k2tog — **14 sts**.
**Row 4:** P all.
**Row 5:** Ssk, k10, k2tog — **12 sts**.
**Row 6:** P all.
**Row 7:** Ssk, k8, k2tog — **10 sts**.
**Row 8:** P all.
**Row 9:** Ssk, k6, k2tog — **8 sts**.
**Row 10:** P all.
**Row 11:** Ssk, k4, k2tog — **6 sts**.
**Row 12:** P all.
**Row 13:** Ssk, k2, k2tog — **4 sts**.
**Row 14:** P all.
**Row 15:** Ssk, k2tog — **2 sts**.
**Row 16:** P2tog — **1 st**. 

Fasten off, leaving a 6-inch (15 cm) tail for seaming.

> ✅ **Stitch Check:** Each fluke decreases from 16 sts to 1 st over 16 rows, creating a swept-back triangular shape consistent with an orca fluke.

**Make a second fluke identical to the first.**

**Fluke Assembly:**
Hold both flukes with right sides facing out. Place them side by side with the CO edges (16 st edges) aligned end-to-end, forming a wide "W" or crescent shape characteristic of orca flukes. Seam the two CO edges together at the center notch using mattress stitch with 4 stitches. Lightly stuff each fluke lobe if desired (very lightly — flukes should be semi-flat). Sew the assembled flukes to the flat tail stock end.

---

### PIECE 3: DORSAL FIN

The dorsal fin is the tall, dramatic fin on the back. In Juergensen's painting, the dorsal fin is strikingly tall and slightly swept back — a defining feature. This fin is worked flat.

**Using Color A (Black):**

CO 20 sts.

**Row 1 (RS):** K all.
**Row 2 (WS):** P all.
**Row 3:** K1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1 — **18 sts**.
**Row 4:** P all.

Repeat Rows 3–4 until 6 sts remain, ending after a WS (purl) row.

> ✅ **Stitch Count Progression:** 20 → 18 → 16 → 14 → 12 → 10 → 8 → 6 (7 decrease rows = 14 rows total).

**Next Row (RS):** K1, ssk, k2tog, k1 — **4 sts**.
**Next Row (WS):** [P2tog] twice — **2 sts**.
**Next Row:** K2tog — **1 st**.
Fasten off.

The CO edge (20 sts wide) is the base of the dorsal fin. The fin is approximately 2.5 inches (6.5 cm) tall.

**Stiffening the Dorsal Fin:**
Cut a piece of cardboard or plastic canvas to fit inside the fin (approximately 2 inches / 5 cm tall × 1.5 inches / 4 cm wide at base). Fold the fin in half lengthwise (matching the two knitted sides together, wrong sides facing in). Insert the stiffener. Seam the sides and base using mattress stitch, leaving the base CO edge open for attachment.

---

### PIECE 4: PECTORAL FINS (Make 2)

The pectoral fins are the long, paddle-shaped side fins. In Juergensen's painting, they are a deep, glossy black.

**Using Color A (Black):**

CO 12 sts.

**Row 1 (RS):** K all.
**Row 2 (WS):** P all.
**Row 3:** K1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1 — **10 sts**.
**Row 4:** P all.
**Row 5:** K all (even row — no decrease).
**Row 6:** P all.
**Row 7:** K1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1 — **8 sts**.
**Row 8:** P all.
**Row 9:** K1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1 — **6 sts**.
**Row 10:** P all.
**Row 11:** K1, ssk, k2tog, k1 — **4 sts**.
**Row 12:** [P2tog] twice — **2 sts**.
**Row 13:** K2tog — **1 st**.
Fasten off.

> ✅ **Stitch Check:** 12 → 10 → 8 → 6 → 4 → 2 → 1 over 13 rows. Each fin is approximately 2 inches (5 cm) long. 

**Make a second pectoral fin identical to the first.**

Fold each fin in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Seam along the edges using mattress stitch, leaving the wide base end (CO edge) open for attachment. Lightly stuff.

---

## ASSEMBLY

Lay out all pieces before seaming and refer to Juergensen's 2014 orca painting for placement reference.

### Step 1: Attach Dorsal Fin
Position the dorsal fin on the top centerline of the body (at the marker you placed during the saddle patch section). The base of the fin (CO edge, 20 sts / approx. 4 inches / 10 cm) should be centered over the marker. Sew the base to the body using whip stitch, making sure the fin stands straight upright. Reinforce with a second pass of stitching.

### Step 2: Attach Pectoral Fins
Position one pectoral fin on each side of the body, approximately 1.5 inches (4 cm) behind the snout tip. The base of the fin should angle slightly downward and back (as seen in the painting). The fin tip points toward the tail. Pin in place, then sew securely using mattress stitch around the entire base edge.

### Step 3: Attach Tail Flukes
The flukes should already be seamed to the tail stock from the body construction. If not done, sew them on now. The flukes should be horizontal, fanning out to each side like a "W." The top side of the flukes is black; the underside has a white crescent (to be added in finishing).

### Step 4: Check Stuffing
Before closing any final gaps, ensure the body is firmly and evenly stuffed. The orca should hold its shape without the fabric dimpling or stretching. Add or remove stuffing as needed through any open seams, then close all gaps.

---

## FINISHING: COLOR DETAILS

This is where your orca truly comes to life! Using **Color B (White)** yarn and a tapestry needle, you will add all white markings.

### White Belly Patch (Duplicate Stitch)
Using Color B (White) and a tapestry needle, work duplicate stitch over the bottom centerline of the body to create the belly patch. 

**Shape:** An elongated oval running along the underside from just behind the snout (approximately 1.5 inches / 4 cm from the tip) all the way to the tail stock. The belly patch is widest at mid-body (approximately 10–12 stitches wide) and tapers to 2–4 stitches at each end.

> 📌 **How to Duplicate Stitch:** Thread the tapestry needle with working yarn. Insert the needle from back to front through the base of the V of the knit stitch you want to cover. Pass the needle behind both legs of the stitch above. Re-insert into the base of the original V. Each stitch is now "painted" white.

Work outward from the center belly in rows, shaping the oval as you go. Refer to the painting for the gently tapered shape.

### White Eye Patch (Duplicate Stitch)
Using Color B (White), work an oval of duplicate stitch above and slightly behind each eye position (at the markers placed earlier).

**Shape:** Approximately 4 stitches wide × 3 rounds tall — a small but crisp white oval. This is the most recognizable marking of the orca.

### Saddle Patch (Duplicate Stitch)
Using Color C (Light Gray), work duplicate stitch for the saddle patch on the back of the body, immediately behind and around the base of the dorsal fin.

**Shape:** An irregular elongated oval approximately 8 stitches wide × 6 rounds tall, centered on the dorsal fin base. The saddle patch in Juergensen's painting has soft, slightly misty edges — you can create this effect by working one round of lighter-pressure duplicate stitches around the outer edge.

### White Tail Fluke Undersides (Duplicate Stitch)
Using Color B (White), work duplicate stitch in a crescent shape along the lower/underside edge of each fluke, approximately 2–3 rows deep, to replicate the white underside seen in the painting.

---

## EYES

### Option A: Safety Eyes (Ages 3 and up)
Using a sharp tapestry needle or awl, carefully open a small hole at each eye marker location (center of the white eye patch, just inside the lower edge). Insert a 12 mm black safety eye from the right side and secure the washer tightly on the inside of the body.

### Option B: Embroidered Eyes (All Ages / Safer)
Using a double strand of black embroidery floss, work 3–4 straight stitches radiating from a center point to form a small round eye approximately 0.25 inch (6 mm) in diameter at the eye marker location. A single small French knot can add a highlight if desired.

---

## FINISHING TOUCHES

- Weave in all yarn ends securely on the wrong side (inside the toy), using a tapestry needle to thread them through at least 1 inch (2.5 cm) of stitching before trimming.
- Gently block the finished orca by misting with water and patting into shape. Allow to dry fully before playing.
- Optional: A single strand of white embroidery floss can be used to add a tiny highlight dot inside or beside each eye for extra liveliness, referencing the luminous quality of Juergensen's painting style.

---

## SCHEMATIC (Text Diagram)

```
         ________DORSAL FIN________
        /                          \
       / [SADDLE PATCH - gray]      \
______/____________________________\___________
 SNOUT →   HEAD    |    BODY    |  TAIL STOCK → [FLUKES]
______\____________________________/___________
       \  [WHITE BELLY PATCH]     /
        \________________________/
    [PECTORAL FIN]         [PECTORAL FIN]
      (left side)             (right side)
```

---

## QUICK REFERENCE: STITCH COUNTS

| Piece | Start | Max | End |
|---|---|---|---|
| Body (CO) | 8 sts | 32 sts | 12 sts |
| Tail Fluke (each) | 16 sts | 16 sts | 1 st |
| Dorsal Fin | 20 sts | 20 sts | 1 st |
| Pectoral Fin (each) | 12 sts | 12 sts | 1 st |

---

## YARDAGE SUMMARY

| Color | Used For | Approx. Yardage |
|---|---|---|
| A – Black | Body, all fins, top of flukes | 200 yards (183 m) |
| B – White | Belly patch, eye patches, fluke undersides (duplicate stitch) | 80 yards (73 m) |
| C – Light Gray | Saddle patch (duplicate stitch) | 20 yards (18 m) |

---

## A NOTE ON THE INSPIRATION

Anneliese Juergensen's 2014 orca painting captures these magnificent animals with a painterly, luminous quality — the deep blue-black of the body, the brilliant white markings, and the impression of powerful movement through water. As you knit Keiko, you are translating that painted light into texture: the smooth stockinette stitch mimics the sleek skin, and the carefully placed white patches echo those bold graphic markings that make the orca one of nature's most striking designs.

---

*Pattern designed in the style of Anneliese Juergensen's 2014 Orca Painting.*
*For personal use only. Not for commercial reproduction.*