purlJam

<pattern>

# KIDS' CLASSIC PULLOVER
**Drop-Shoulder Machine Knit Sweater for Age 5**
*Beginner-Friendly Pattern*

---

## MACHINE_SETUP

**Machine Type**: Standard gauge knitting machine (4.5mm needle pitch)

**Bed Configuration**: Main bed only for body and sleeves; ribber optional for hems and neckband (alternative main-bed mock rib instructions provided)

**Swatch Instructions**:
- Cast on 40 needles using waste yarn and ravel cord method
- Knit 10 rows waste yarn at T10
- Knit 1 row ravel cord (nylon cord or smooth waste yarn)
- Change to main yarn, set tension dial to T6
- Knit 50 rows stockinette
- Bind off loosely or knit waste yarn and remove from machine
- Steam press lightly with damp cloth
- Measure gauge in center of swatch after 30 minutes rest

**Cast-On Method**: Waste yarn and ravel cord (beginner-friendly, easy to unravel for hemming)

**Tension Dial Settings**:
- Waste yarn: T10
- Main yarn stockinette: T6-7 (adjust after swatching; tighter for firmer fabric, looser for drape)
- Ribbing: T4-5 (if using main bed mock rib) or match ribber tension to main bed T6

**Weight and Comb Placement**:
- Hang cast-on comb with 2-3 standard weights after 10-12 rows
- Rehang weights every 30-40 rows or when fabric advances
- For sleeves, use 1-2 weights due to narrower width

**Carriage Settings**:
- Part button: down (normal knitting position)
- Needle selection buttons: off (no patterning)
- Slip lever: knit (not slip)

---

## MATERIALS

**Yarn**: Worsted weight (medium #4), approximately 500-600 yards (460-550m) total
- Suggested fibers: wool, cotton, acrylic blend, or superwash merino
- Sample shown in cascade 220 or similar worsted weight

**Yarn Amounts by Section**:
- Back panel: 200 yards (185m)
- Front panel: 200 yards (185m)
- Sleeves (both): 180 yards (165m)
- Neckband and finishing: 20 yards (20m)

**Notions**:
- Ravel cord (smooth nylon cord) for cast-on
- Waste yarn (contrasting color, same weight)
- Cast-on comb and standard weights (4-6 total)
- Latch tool or single transfer tool
- Tapestry needle for seaming
- Stitch markers or safety pins
- Steam iron and pressing cloth
- Sweater board or blocking mat (optional)

---

## GAUGE_AND_TENSION

**Target Gauge** (after steaming):
- **Stitches**: 5.5 stitches per inch (2.2 sts per cm)
- **Rows**: 7.5 rows per inch (3 rows per cm)

**Measuring Gauge**:
1. Knit swatch as described in MACHINE_SETUP
2. Steam press lightly with damp cloth, hover iron 1" above fabric
3. Allow to cool and rest flat for 30 minutes
4. Measure in center of swatch using ruler or gauge tool
5. Count stitches over 4" width and rows over 4" height
6. Divide by 4 to get per-inch gauge

**Tension Adjustment**:
- If gauge is too tight (more than 5.5 st/in): increase tension dial by 1 number (e.g., T6→T7)
- If gauge is too loose (fewer than 5.5 st/in): decrease tension dial by 1 number (e.g., T6→T5)
- Re-swatch after any tension adjustment

**Critical Note**: Gauge determines final garment size. A difference of 0.5 st/in equals approximately 2" (5cm) variation in chest width.

---

## SCHEMATIC_AND_SIZES

**Size**: Child's size 5 (chest 24", with 2" positive ease)

**Finished Measurements**:
- **Chest circumference**: 26" (66cm) [measured flat: 13" wide × 2]
- **Body length** (shoulder to hem): 14" (35.5cm)
- **Shoulder width**: 10" (25.5cm) [27 stitches held at each shoulder]
- **Neck opening width**: 6" (15cm)
- **Sleeve length** (underarm to cuff): 12" (30.5cm)
- **Sleeve width at upper arm**: 11" (28cm)
- **Sleeve width at cuff**: 6.5" (16.5cm)

**Schematic Diagram** (view from front):

```
        |<---6"--- NECK --->|
    ____|___________________|____
   |    [    SHOULDER    ]      | 
   |    10" total width         |
   |                            | 14" BODY
   |<------13" CHEST -------->  | LENGTH
   |____________________________|
   
   SLEEVE (view flat):
   
   |<---11" UPPER ARM--->|
    \                   /
     \                 /   12" SLEEVE
      \               /    LENGTH
       \             /
        |<-6.5"-->|
          CUFF
```

**Stitch and Row Counts** (calculated at gauge 5.5st/in, 7.5row/in):
- Back/Front width: 72 stitches (13" × 5.5)
- Body length: 105 rows (14" × 7.5)
- Ribbing depth: 15 rows (2")
- Shoulder stitches (each side): 27 stitches
- Neck opening: 33 stitches (6" × 5.5)
- Sleeve at cuff: 36 stitches (6.5" × 5.5)
- Sleeve at upper arm: 61 stitches (11" × 5.5)
- Sleeve length: 90 rows (12" × 7.5)

---

## BACK_PANEL

**Needle Setup**: Position 72 needles in working position (WP)
- Example: Needle position -36 to +36 (or 0-71 depending on machine)
- All needles centered on needle bed

**Cast-On** (RC000):
1. Push 72 needles to WP (working position)
2. Carriage at right (COR), tension T10
3. Thread waste yarn, knit 10 rows
4. Lay in ravel cord across needles
5. Knit 1 row over ravel cord (this row will be unraveled later)
6. Thread main yarn, set tension to T6
7. RC000, COL (carriage on left)

**Ribbing/Hem** (RC000-015):
- *If using main bed only*: Knit 15 rows stockinette at T6
- *If using ribber*: Engage ribber, set both beds to T6, knit 15 rows 1×1 rib
- Hang cast-on comb with 2-3 weights after row 10
- End RC015, COL

**Body** (RC015-105):
- Set tension to T6 (or T7 if fabric is too tight)
- Knit straight with no shaping
- **RC015**: Begin body, COL
- **RC040**: Rehang weights, check for even knitting
- **RC070**: Rehang weights again
- **RC105**: End of body, COL

**Row Counter Check**: You should have 105 rows total from cast-on (including 15 rows hem)

**Shoulder Shaping** (RC105-109):
Use holding technique to create gentle shoulder slope (optional for beginner—can bind off straight across):

*Simplified Version (Beginner)*:
- RC105: Bind off all 72 stitches using latch tool or transfer to waste yarn

*Shaped Version (Intermediate)*:
- RC105, COL: Put 9 needles at each edge into hold position (HP) - working 54 needles
- RC106, COR: Knit across
- RC107, COL: Put 9 more needles at each edge to HP - working 36 needles
- RC108, COR: Knit across
- RC109, COL: Put 9 more needles at each edge to HP - working 18 needles
- RC110: Transfer all stitches to waste yarn OR bind off

**Remove from Machine**:
- Knit 6-8 rows waste yarn at T10
- Remove from machine
- Label piece "BACK"

**Math Check**: 
- Width: 72 sts ÷ 5.5 st/in = 13.09" ✓
- Length: 105 rows ÷ 7.5 row/in = 14" ✓

---

## FRONT_PANEL

**Needle Setup**: Position 72 needles in WP (same as back)

**Cast-On through Body** (RC000-082):
- Follow identical instructions as BACK_PANEL for cast-on, ribbing, and body
- Knit from RC000 to RC082 with no shaping
- End RC082, COL
- **Check**: Measure length from ravel cord; should be approximately 11" (28cm)

**Neck Shaping** (RC082-105):
The front neck is shaped using holding technique to create crew neck opening.

**RC082, COL**: Begin neck shaping
1. Put center 33 stitches into HP (hold position)
   - If your needle range is -36 to +36: put needles -16 to +16 into HP
   - This leaves 19-20 stitches on each side working
2. You will work LEFT shoulder first, then return to work RIGHT shoulder

**LEFT SHOULDER** (RC082-095):
- RC082, COL: Center 33 needles in HP, carriage at left
- Set carriage to hold (set hold button/lever)
- Knit to right (working only left shoulder stitches, needles -36 to -17)
- RC083, COR: At right edge (neck side), put 2 needles from work to HP
- RC084, COL: Knit to left
- RC085, COR: Put 2 more needles to HP at neck edge
- RC086, COL: Knit to left
- RC087, COR: Put 1 needle to HP at neck edge
- RC088, COL: Knit to left
- RC089, COR: Put 1 needle to HP at neck edge
- Continue knitting straight on remaining stitches (approximately 27 stitches)
- Knit until RC095, end COL

**Hold Left Shoulder**: Transfer left shoulder stitches to waste yarn or leave on machine in HP

**RIGHT SHOULDER** (RC082-095):
- Return carriage to RC082 position (count back rows if needed, or work from opposite side)
- Return carriage to right side
- Return center and left shoulder needles to HP
- Work right shoulder (needles +17 to +36) 
- Mirror the shaping of left shoulder:
  - RC083, COL: Put 2 needles at neck edge to HP, knit to right
  - RC085, COL: Put 2 needles to HP, knit to right
  - RC087, COL: Put 1 needle to HP, knit to right
  - RC089, COL: Put 1 needle to HP, knit to right
- Knit straight until RC095

**Shoulders** (RC095-105):
- Both shoulders should have approximately 27 stitches each
- Knit straight for 10 more rows to match back shoulder height
- RC105: Transfer to waste yarn or bind off

**Remove from Machine**:
- Knit waste yarn over all sections
- Remove and label "FRONT"

**Math Check**:
- Neck opening: 33 sts ÷ 5.5 st/in = 6" ✓
- Neck shaping starts at: 82 rows ÷ 7.5 row/in = 10.9" from bottom ✓
- Each shoulder: 27 stitches (19-20 working minus decreases plus edge stitches) ≈ 10" total shoulder width ✓

---

## SLEEVES

**Make two identical sleeves.**

**Needle Setup**: 
- Start with 36 needles in WP for cuff
- Example: needles -18 to +18

**Cast-On** (RC000):
1. Push 36 needles to WP
2. COR, tension T10, thread waste yarn
3. Knit 10 rows waste yarn
4. Lay in ravel cord, knit 1 row
5. Thread main yarn, set tension to T6
6. RC000, COL

**Cuff Ribbing** (RC000-015):
- *Main bed only*: Knit 15 rows stockinette at T6
- *With ribber*: Knit 15 rows 1×1 rib at T6
- Hang comb with 1-2 weights after row 8-10
- End RC015, COL

**Sleeve Body with Increases** (RC015-090