purlJam

<pattern>

# LADIES DROP-SHOULDER PULLOVER
**Advanced Machine Knitting Pattern**  
*Worsted Weight Yarn | Standard Gauge Machine*

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## MACHINE_SETUP

**Machine Configuration:**
- Standard gauge knitting machine (4.5mm needle spacing)
- Ribber attachment required for hems and neckband
- Main bed tension dial: 6 for stockinette body
- Ribber tension dial: 4 for 2×2 rib
- Carriage settings: Part button OFF for stockinette; both beds set to slip for rib

**Swatch Requirements:**
1. Cast on 44 needles using waste yarn and ravel cord method
2. Knit 10 rows waste yarn at tension 8
3. Insert ravel cord and set main bed tension to 6
4. Knit 60 rows stockinette (RC000–060)
5. Knit 10 rows waste yarn at tension 8
6. Remove from machine, undo ravel cord
7. Steam swatch lightly with pressing cloth (do not stretch)
8. Allow to cool completely (15 minutes) before measuring
9. Measure center 10cm square, avoiding edges

**Tools Required:**
- Cast-on comb and weights (approximately 300g per comb)
- Ravel cord (smooth, contrasting yarn)
- 2-prong transfer tool
- 3-prong transfer tool (for ribbing setup)
- Single-eye transfer tool (for neckline shaping)
- Latch tool for bind-off
- Tapestry needle for seaming
- Blocking wires and sweater board (optional but recommended)
- Steam iron with pressing cloth

**Weight Placement:**
- Hang cast-on comb with weights immediately after casting on
- Rehang weights every 20–30 rows, gradually adding weight as fabric lengthens
- Use additional claw weights on selvedge edges if laddering occurs
- For neckline holding: place small weights on held sections to prevent curl

---

## MATERIALS

**Yarn:**
- Worsted weight (10-ply) wool or wool-blend yarn
- Approximately 900 (1000, 1100) meters total
- Sample knit in: Cascade 220 Wool (100% Peruvian Highland Wool; 200m per 100g skein)
- Quantity: 5 (5, 6) skeins

**Notions:**
- Waste yarn (smooth acrylic in contrasting color, approximately 50g)
- Ravel cord (buttonhole thread or smooth cotton crochet thread)
- Stitch markers (to mark pattern placement on machine bed)
- Measuring tape
- Row counter (built into machine carriage)

**Color Notes:**
- Sample shown in single color
- For colorwork or stripe variations, maintain same tension dial settings across colors
- Test each yarn color in gauge swatch if substituting

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## GAUGE_AND_TENSION

**Critical Gauge (after steaming):**
- **22 stitches** × **30 rows** = **10cm × 10cm (4" × 4")** in stockinette stitch
- Main bed tension dial: **6**
- Measured after light steaming and complete cooling

**Gauge Verification:**
- Count stitches horizontally across center 10cm
- Count rows vertically over center 10cm
- If gauge is off by more than 1 stitch/10cm, adjust tension dial:
  - **Too many stitches?** Increase tension dial by 0.5–1 (fabric too tight)
  - **Too few stitches?** Decrease tension dial by 0.5–1 (fabric too loose)
- Re-swatch after any tension change

**Rib Gauge (2×2 rib, after steaming):**
- Approximately 24 stitches = 10cm (slightly tighter than stockinette)
- Ribber tension dial: **4**
- Main bed tension dial: **6**
- Rib will draw in; measure relaxed, not stretched

**Steaming Technique:**
- Use wool/steam setting on iron
- Always use pressing cloth (cotton fabric or tea towel)
- Hover iron just above fabric or press very lightly
- Do not slide iron; lift and place
- Allow each section to cool completely before measuring or handling

---

## SCHEMATIC_AND_SIZES

**Sizes:** S (M, L)  
*Instructions given as: Size S (Size M, Size L)*

**Finished Bust Circumference:**
- S: 86cm (34")  
- M: 96cm (38")  
- L: 106cm (42")  
*Designed for 5–10cm (2–4") positive ease*

**Key Measurements:**

| Measurement | S | M | L |
|-------------|---|---|---|
| **Bust circumference** | 86cm (34") | 96cm (38") | 106cm (42") |
| **Body length** (hem to shoulder) | 56cm (22") | 58cm (23") | 60cm (23.5") |
| **Shoulder width** (each side) | 43cm (17") | 48cm (19") | 53cm (21") |
| **Sleeve length** (underarm to cuff) | 44cm (17.5") | 45cm (17.75") | 46cm (18") |
| **Upper arm circumference** | 40cm (15.75") | 43cm (17") | 45cm (17.75") |
| **Cuff circumference** | 23cm (9") | 24cm (9.5") | 25cm (10") |
| **Front neck drop** | 7cm (2.75") | 7cm (2.75") | 7cm (2.75") |
| **Back neck width** | 18cm (7") | 20cm (8") | 22cm (8.5") |

**Schematic Notes:**
- Drop-shoulder construction: sleeve attaches along straight upper edge of body
- No armhole shaping on body panels
- Body length measured from bottom of rib hem to shoulder seam
- Sleeve length measured from cuff edge to underarm point (body side seam begins)

**Math Verification (Size S):**
- Back panel width: 43cm × 2.2 sts/cm = 94.6 sts → **94 sts** (use even number for pattern symmetry)
- Body length: 56cm × 3 rows/cm = 168 rows → **165 rows** after rib hem (rounded for pattern purposes)
- Sleeve upper width: 40cm × 2.2 sts/cm = 88 sts → **88 sts**
- Sleeve cuff width: 23cm × 2.4 sts/cm (rib gauge) = 55.2 sts → **56 sts** (even number)

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## BACK_PANEL

**Stitch Count:**  
S: 94 sts | M: 106 sts | L: 116 sts

**Setup:**
1. Push S (M, L) 94 (106, 116) needles to work position (WP) on main bed, centered (0 position in center)
   - S: Needles 47L to 47R
   - M: Needles 53L to 53R
   - L: Needles 58L to 58R

**Ribber Setup for Hem:**
2. Bring ribber into work position
3. Set up 2×2 rib configuration:
   - Using 3-prong transfer tool, transfer every 3rd and 4th stitch to ribber
   - Main bed: needles in pattern 2 up, 2 empty (stitches on needles 1, 2, 5, 6, 9, 10, etc.)
   - Ribber: opposing needles hold transferred stitches
4. Set both carriages to slip position
5. Main bed tension: 6 | Ribber tension: 4

**Cast-On (COL):**
6. Using waste yarn (tension 8), cast on with circular cast-on method:
   - Knit 10 rows waste yarn, RC000–010
7. Insert ravel cord in all needles
8. Change to main yarn, set tension dials (main 6, ribber 4)
9. RC000

**Rib Hem:**
- RC000–020: Knit 20 rows in 2×2 rib (carriage knits both beds each pass)
- Hang cast-on comb with weights after row 4
- Adjust weights as needed to maintain even tension
- **At RC020, COL:**

**Transfer Ribber Stitches to Main Bed:**
10. Using single-eye transfer tool, transfer all ribber stitches back to main bed
    - Each main bed needle should now hold 1 stitch
    - Total stitches: 94 (106, 116) on main bed
11. Return ribber to rest position (fold down)
12. Set carriage to stockinette (part button OFF, slip button released)
13. Main bed tension remains at 6

**Body (Stockinette):**
- **RC020, COL:** Begin stockinette body
- Knit straight in stockinette with no shaping
- Rehang weights every 25 rows: at RC045, RC070, RC095, RC120, RC145
- **Target RC:** 
  - S: RC185 (165 rows of stockinette)
  - M: RC195 (175 rows)
  - L: RC205 (185 rows)

**Math Check:**
- S: 20 rows rib + 165 rows body = 185 total rows = 61.7cm ≈ 56cm body length + 5.7cm rib hem ✓
- M: 20 + 175 = 195 rows = 65cm ≈ 58cm + 6.7cm ✓
- L: 20 + 185 = 205 rows = 68.3cm ≈ 60cm + 6.8cm ✓

**Back Neck Shaping:**

At RC 185 (195, 205), COL:

14. **Center neck stitches (hold):**
    - S: Place center 40 sts to hold (needles 20L to 20R)
    - M: Place center 44 sts to hold (needles 22L to 22R)
    - L: Place center 48 sts to hold (needles 24L to 24R)
    - Using hold button: Move needles to hold position (HP), carriage will not knit these
    - Leave 27 (31, 34) sts in WP on each side

15. **Right shoulder (working on right-side stitches, COL → COR):**
    - RC185 (195, 205): Knit to right, COR
    - RC186 (196, 206): Place 3 sts at neck edge to HP (move 3 needles closest to center to HP), knit to left, COL
    - RC187 (197, 207): Knit to right, COR
    - RC188 (198, 208): Place 2 sts at neck edge to HP, knit to left, COL
    - **RC189 (199, 209), COL:** Right shoulder complete
    - Remaining stitches in WP: 22 (26, 29) sts
    - Remove carriage, place stitches on waste yarn (knit 8 rows waste yarn at tension 8, remove from machine)

16. **Left shoulder (mirror right):**
    - Return carriage to left side, opposite the held center stitches
    - RC186 (196, 206): From COR, knit to left, COL
    - RC187 (197, 207): Place 3 sts at neck edge to HP, knit to right, COR
    - RC188 (198, 208): Knit to left, COL
    - RC189 (199, 209): Place 2 sts at neck edge to HP, knit to right, COR
    - **RC190 (200, 210), COR:** Left shoulder complete
    - Remaining stitches: 22 (26, 29) sts
    - Place stitches on waste yarn (knit 8 rows waste yarn, remove)

17. **Center back neck stitches:**
    - Return all center held needles to WP
    - Place these stitches on waste yarn (knit 8 rows waste yarn, remove)
    - Or transfer to a stitch holder for later neckband pickup

**Back Panel Complete.**

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## FRONT_PANEL

**Stitch Count:**  
S: 94 sts | M: 106 sts | L: 116 sts

**Setup:**
1. Cast on exactly as for Back Panel (same needle positions)
2. Work rib hem exactly as for Back (RC000–020)
3. Transfer ribber stitches to main bed at RC020
4. Knit stockinette body from RC020

**Body (Stockinette):**
- Knit straight with no shaping
- Rehang weights every 25 rows
- Work to:
  - S: RC164 (144 rows stockinette after rib = 48cm; front neck begins 7cm/21 rows before shoulder)
  - M: RC174 (154 rows = 51.3cm)
  - L: RC184 (164 rows = 54.7cm)

**Front Neck Shaping (begins earlier than back):**

At RC 164 (174, 184), COL:

5. **Center neck stitches (immediate hold):**
   - S: Place center 28 sts to