purlJam

# 🌸 Little Sweetheart Cardigan 🌸
### An Advanced Fair Isle Baby Cardigan

A top-down seamless raglan cardigan featuring a darling yoke of tiny hearts, snowflakes, and geometric borders. Designed for the confident knitter ready to tackle stranded colorwork on a quick, rewarding baby-sized canvas.

---

## SIZE
**6–12 months** (finished chest 20" / 51 cm, length 10" / 25.5 cm)

## FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
- Chest circumference: 20" (51 cm)
- Total length from shoulder: 10" (25.5 cm)
- Sleeve length from underarm: 6" (15 cm)
- Yoke depth: 4¼" (11 cm)

---

## MATERIALS

### Yarn (Worsted Weight / CYC #4)
Recommended: Smooth, plied merino or superwash wool for crisp colorwork.

| Color | Role | Suggested Shade | Yardage |
|---|---|---|---|
| **MC** | Main Color | Cream / Ivory | 350 yds (320 m) |
| **CC1** | Contrast 1 | Soft Pink | 60 yds (55 m) |
| **CC2** | Contrast 2 | Dusty Rose | 40 yds (37 m) |
| **CC3** | Contrast 3 | Sky Blue | 40 yds (37 m) |
| **CC4** | Contrast 4 | Sage Green | 35 yds (32 m) |
| **CC5** | Contrast 5 | Butter Yellow | 30 yds (27 m) |

### Needles
- **US 7 / 4.5 mm** — 24" (60 cm) circular (main)
- **US 5 / 3.75 mm** — 16" (40 cm) circular (ribbing & bands)
- **US 7 / 4.5 mm** — DPNs or preferred small-circumference method (sleeves)

### Notions
- 5 stitch markers (4 raglan + 1 BOR/front-edge)
- Tapestry needle
- **5 buttons**, ½" (13 mm) diameter
- Waste yarn (sleeve holders)
- Blocking pins and mat

---

## GAUGE
- **20 sts × 26 rows = 4" (10 cm)** in stockinette, on US 7 / 4.5 mm, blocked
- **20 sts × 24 rows = 4" (10 cm)** in stranded colorwork from chart, on US 7 / 4.5 mm, blocked

*Colorwork gauge tends to run tighter; if your colorwork section pulls in, go up ½ needle size for charted rows only.*

---

## ABBREVIATIONS
- **k** – knit
- **p** – purl
- **st(s)** – stitch(es)
- **RS / WS** – right side / wrong side
- **kfb** – knit front and back (1 st increased)
- **M1L / M1R** – make 1 left / right leaning
- **k2tog** – knit 2 together
- **ssk** – slip, slip, knit
- **yo** – yarn over
- **sl m** – slip marker
- **pm** – place marker
- **BOR** – beginning of round
- **MC / CC** – main color / contrast color

---

## COLORWORK NOTES

**Color Dominance:** Hold the **contrast color in your LEFT hand** (or below, depending on your technique) throughout. This keeps the motifs bold against the cream MC.

**Float Management:** Maximum float length is **5 sts**. No floats in this pattern exceed 5 sts, but when catching yarns between rows, stagger catches to avoid show-through on MC.

**Tension:** Spread stitches on the right needle before each color change to prevent puckering. Turn work inside out periodically to check float tension.

**Reading Charts:**
- The yoke is worked **flat** (back-and-forth) because the cardigan is open at the front.
- **RS (odd) rows:** read chart **right to left**
- **WS (even) rows:** read chart **left to right**, purling both MC and CC as charted
- Each square = 1 st; blank = MC; symbol = CC as noted in the key

---

## CHARTS

### CHART A — Seed Border (4-st repeat, 3 rows)
Worked right after neckband.

```
Row 3:  . x . x . x . x . x . x    (CC1)
Row 2:  x . x . x . x . x . x .    (CC1)
Row 1:  . x . x . x . x . x . x    (CC1)
         ← repeat every 2 sts →
```
**Key:** `.` = MC  `x` = CC1

---

### CHART B — Tiny Hearts (6-st repeat, 5 rows)
Main yoke motif.

```
Row 5:  . . . . . .   . . . . . .     (MC only)
Row 4:  . ♥ . . ♥ .   . ♥ . . ♥ .     (CC2)
Row 3:  ♥ ♥ ♥ . ♥ ♥   ♥ ♥ ♥ . ♥ ♥     (CC2)
Row 2:  ♥ ♥ ♥ ♥ ♥ ♥   . (wait) →
```
Corrected grid — 6-st repeat:

```
Row 5:  . . . . . .      (MC)
Row 4:  . ♥ ♥ . ♥ ♥      (CC2)
Row 3:  ♥ ♥ ♥ ♥ ♥ ♥      (CC2)  → longest CC float = 4 within rpt, OK
Row 2:  . ♥ ♥ . ♥ ♥      (CC2)
Row 1:  . . ♥ . . ♥      (CC2)
          ← 6-st repeat →
```
**Key:** `.` = MC  `♥` = CC2

---

### CHART C — Snowflake / Star Band (8-st repeat, 7 rows)
Larger placement motif.

```
Row 7:  . . . ✦ ✦ . . .     (CC3)
Row 6:  . ✦ . ✦ ✦ . ✦ .     (CC3)
Row 5:  . . ✦ ✦ ✦ ✦ . .     (CC3)
Row 4:  ✦ ✦ ✦ . . ✦ ✦ ✦     (CC3)  ← longest float = 2 MC, 3 CC ✓
Row 3:  . . ✦ ✦ ✦ ✦ . .     (CC3)
Row 2:  . ✦ . ✦ ✦ . ✦ .     (CC3)
Row 1:  . . . ✦ ✦ . . .     (CC3)
          ← 8-st repeat →
```
**Key:** `.` = MC  `✦` = CC3

---

### CHART D — Dot & Dash (4-st repeat, 3 rows)
Closing band before body separation.

```
Row 3:  . . . .              (MC)
Row 2:  x . x .              (CC4)
Row 1:  . x . x              (CC5)
          ← 4-st repeat →
```
**Key:** `.` = MC  `x` = CC as labeled

---

## PATTERN

### NECKBAND
With US 5 / 3.75 mm needle and MC, **cast on 58 sts.**

Do not join — work flat.

**Rows 1–5:** [k1, p1] to end (1×1 ribbing), slipping first st purlwise with yarn in front on every row for a tidy edge.

Switch to US 7 / 4.5 mm needle.

---

### RAGLAN SETUP (RS)
**Setup Row (RS):** k9 (left front), pm, k11 (left sleeve), pm, k18 (back), pm, k11 (right sleeve), pm, k9 (right front). **[58 sts]**

*Math check: 9 + 11 + 18 + 11 + 9 = 58 ✓*

**Next Row (WS):** Purl all sts, slipping markers.

---

### YOKE — CHART A (Seed Border)

Join CC1. Work **Chart A (3 rows)** across all sts while simultaneously increasing at raglans.

**Raglan Increase Row (RS, Chart A Row 1):** *k to 1 st before m, kfb, sl m, kfb; rep from * 3 more times, k to end. **[8 sts increased = 66 sts]**

**Row 2 (WS, Chart A Row 2):** Purl across in chart colors, no increases.

**Row 3 (RS, Chart A Row 3):** Raglan Increase Row (as above). **[74 sts]**

Cut CC1.

**Row 4 (WS):** With MC, purl.

---

### YOKE — CHART B (Tiny Hearts)

Join CC2. Work **Chart B (5 rows)**, continuing raglan increases on **every RS row** throughout.

- Row 1 (RS): Raglan Inc Row in chart colors. **[82 sts]**
- Row 2 (WS): Purl in chart colors.
- Row 3 (RS): Raglan Inc Row. **[90 sts]**
- Row 4 (WS): Purl in chart colors.
- Row 5 (RS): Raglan Inc Row (MC only row). **[98 sts]**

Cut CC2.

**WS Row:** With MC, purl.

---

### YOKE — CHART C (Snowflake Band)

Join CC3. Work **Chart C (7 rows)**, continuing raglan increases on every RS row.

- Row 1 (RS): Raglan Inc Row. **[106 sts]**
- Row 2 (WS): Purl in chart colors.
- Row 3 (RS): Raglan Inc Row. **[114 sts]**
- Row 4 (WS): Purl in chart colors.
- Row 5 (RS): Raglan Inc Row. **[122 sts]**
- Row 6 (WS): Purl in chart colors.
- Row 7 (RS): Raglan Inc Row. **[130 sts]**

Cut CC3.

**WS Row:** With MC, purl.

---

### YOKE — MC PLAIN SECTION with continued raglan increases

Continue in MC stockinette, working Raglan Inc Rows on **every RS row** for **3 more RS rows**, purling WS rows between.

- RS 1: Inc **[138 sts]**
- WS
- RS 2: Inc **[146 sts]**
- WS
- RS 3: Inc **[154 sts]**
- WS (purl)

---

### YOKE — CHART D (Dot & Dash Closing Band)

Join CC4 and CC5. Work **Chart D (3 rows)**, continuing raglan increases on RS rows.

- Row 1 (RS): Raglan Inc Row with CC5 dots. **[162 sts]**
- Row 2 (WS): Purl in chart colors (CC4).
- Row 3 (RS): Raglan Inc Row — MC only. **[170 sts]**

Cut CC4 and CC5.

**WS Row:** With MC, purl.

**✅ Total yoke raglan increase rows: 14. Math: 58 + (14 × 8) = 58 + 112 = 170 sts ✓**

**Stitch distribution at this point:**
- Left front: 9 + 14 = **23 sts**
- Left sleeve: 11 + 28 = **39 sts**
- Back: 18 + 28 = **46 sts**
- Right sleeve: 11 + 28 = **39 sts**
- Right front: 9 + 14 = **23 sts**

*Check: 23 + 39 + 46 + 39 + 23 = 170 ✓*

---

### SEPARATE SLEEVES FROM BODY (RS)

With MC:

1. K23 (left front), remove m.
2. Place next **39 sts** (left sleeve) on waste yarn.
3. Cable cast on **4 sts** (underarm), pm for side.
4. Cable cast on **4 sts**.
5. K46 (back), remove m.
6. Place next **39 sts** (right sleeve) on waste yarn.
7. Cable cast on **4 sts**, pm for side, cable cast on **4 sts**.
8. K23 (right front).

**Body total: 23 + 8 + 46 + 8 + 23 = 108 sts**

---

### BODY

Work back and forth in stockinette (k RS, p WS) in MC until body measures **5½" (14 cm)** from underarm, ending with a WS row.

**Optional colorwork accent:** At 4" from underarm, work one repeat of **Chart A** in CC1 as a hem stripe (3 rows, no shaping).

#### Body Ribbing
Switch to US 5 / 3.75 mm needle. With MC:

**Rows 1–6:** [k1, p1] to end, slipping first st for tidy edge.

**Row 7:** Bind off loosely in pattern.

---

### SLEEVES (make 2 alike)

Transfer 39 held sleeve sts to US 7 / 4.5 mm DPNs or small-circumference needle. Join MC at center of underarm and pick up **4 sts**, k39, pick up **4 sts** from other side of underarm. **[47 sts]**

Pm for BOR. Join to work in the round.

**Rnd 1:** Knit.

**Decrease Rnd:** k1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. **[2 sts dec]**

Work Decrease Rnd **every 8th rnd, 3 times total.** **[41 sts]**

*Check: 47 − 6 = 41 ✓*

Continue in stockinette until sleeve measures **5" (12.5 cm)** from underarm.

**Optional accent:** Work **Chart B (1 repeat, 5 rnds)** in CC2 near cuff — stitch count 41 does not divide evenly by 6, so work chart centered: k2 (MC), work chart over 36 sts (6 repeats), k3 (MC).

#### Sleeve Cuff
Switch to US 5 / 3.75 mm. **K2tog at BOR to get 40 sts** (even for ribbing).

**Rnds 1–6:** [k1, p1] around.

Bind off loosely in pattern.

Repeat for second sleeve.

---

### BUTTON BANDS

#### Button Band (LEFT front for girls / baby's left as worn)
With US 5 / 3.75 mm and MC, RS facing, beginning at top of neckband, pick up and knit **55 sts** evenly along left front edge (approximately 3 sts for every 4 rows).

**Rows 1–6:** [k1, p1] to last st, k1.

**Row 7:** Bind off loosely in pattern.

#### Buttonhole Band (RIGHT front)
With US 5 / 3.75 mm and MC, RS facing, beginning at bottom of right front, pick up and knit **55 sts** evenly to top.

**Rows 1–2:** [k1, p1] to last st, k1.

**Row 3 (Buttonhole Row, RS):**
k1, p1, k1, p1,
**[yo, k2tog, work 10 sts in pattern] × 4 times,**
yo, k2tog, work in pattern to end.

*Buttonhole math: 5 buttonholes × (2-st unit) + 4 × 10-st spacers + 4-st beginning + remainder = 10 + 40 + 4 = 54; final 1 st works in pattern → 55 ✓. Buttons spaced approximately every 12 rows / 1¾" apart.*

**Rows 4–6:** Continue in [k1, p1] ribbing.

**Row 7:** Bind off loosely in pattern.

---

## FINISHING

1. Weave in all ends on the wrong side, following float paths where possible to secure.
2. Sew buttons to button band opposite buttonholes.

### Blocking (Essential for Colorwork!)
1. Soak cardigan in lukewarm water with wool wash for 20 minutes.
2. Gently squeeze out water (do not wring). Roll in a towel and press.
3. Lay flat on blocking mats. Pin to **finished measurements**, gently stretching colorwork sections to even out tension and open up floats.
4. Pay special attention to the yoke — smooth motifs flat and square the raglan lines.
5. Allow to dry completely (24–48 hrs) before unpinning.

---

## SCHEMATIC REFERENCE

```
      ┌──── 20" chest ────┐
      │                    │
   ───┤    YOKE (4¼")      ├───
      │   [Charts A-D]     │
      ├────────────────────┤
      │                    │
      │     BODY (5½")     │
      │                    │
      └────────────────────┘
      sleeve 6" × 2  (cuff 8" circ)
```

---

## DESIGNER'S NOTES

- **First time stranding?** Practice Chart B on a small swatch first — the 6-st repeat builds your rhythm.
- **Catching floats:** All floats in this pattern are ≤ 5 sts, so no catching is required on baby skin. If you modify for a larger size, catch any float > 5 sts midway.
- **Yarn substitution:** Choose a yarn that blooms when washed (wool or wool blend) — this helps the colorwork stitches even out beautifully after blocking.
- **Gift tip:** Wash and block before gifting. Include a spare button tied to the care label.

Happy knitting! 🧶💕