Mal Cabled Vest

Men’s XXL Round-Neck Vest

A classic crew-neck vest worked flat in pieces. The back is clean stockinette; the front carries a 40-stitch vertical Aran panel — mirrored 8-stitch rope cables flanking a 12-stitch braid — set on a stockinette field. Hem, neckband, and armhole bands are 2×2 rib. Shoulders and sides are seamed. Optional German short rows raise the back neck; optional short-row shoulder slope may be added on both pieces.

Skill level: Intermediate (cables, mirrored shaping, picked-up bands; optional German short rows).

Size

XXL — to fit chest 51¼" (130 cm).

Finished measurements (blocked, after seaming)

• Chest circumference: 56½" (143.5 cm) — approx. 5" (12–13.5 cm) positive ease
• Length from hem to shoulder: 28" (71 cm)
• Hem to underarm: 16" (40.5 cm)
• Armhole depth: 11¾" (30 cm)
• Upper back/front width (after armholes): 19½" (49.5 cm)
• Each shoulder: 5¾" (14.7 cm)
• Raw neck width: 7⅞" (20 cm)
• Piece width (each, before seaming): 28¾" (73 cm)
• Ribbing depth (hem): 2¼" (6 cm)

See schematic at the end of the pattern.

Yarn

Worsted weight (CYC 4). 1095 yd / 1000 m (about 550 g), plus a little extra if you work the optional short rows or a deeper neckband.

A smooth wool or wool-blend worsted that cables crisply is ideal. Allow one extra skein if your yardage per skein is under 200 yd (180 m).

Needles

• US 6 / 4 mm: straight or circular, for the body
• US 4 / 3.5 mm: straight or circular, for the hem; plus a 16" (40 cm) circular (or DPNs) for the neckband and armhole bands

Or size needed to obtain gauge, and one size smaller for ribbing.

Notions

• Cable needle
• Stitch markers
• Stitch holders or waste yarn
• Tapestry needle
• Row counter (recommended)

Gauge

17 stitches and 25 rows = 4" (10 cm) in stockinette stitch on US 6 / 4 mm needles, blocked.

Work a 6" (15 cm) swatch, wet-block, and measure the center 4" (10 cm). Cable fabric draws in slightly before blocking; wet-block the front to the same width as the back.

Notes

• Construction. Pieces are worked flat, bottom up. Shoulders are joined, then the neckband is picked up and worked in the round. Side seams are sewn, then armhole bands are picked up and worked in the round.
• Cast-on. Use a German twisted cast-on (Old Norwegian) for a firm, elastic edge. A long-tail cast-on may be substituted.
• Selvedge stitches. The first and last stitch of every row are selvedge stitches and are included in all stitch counts. During 2×2 rib, work them as they fall in the rib. During the body: slip the first stitch purlwise with yarn in front, knit the last stitch of every row. Mattress stitch later consumes these stitches.
• Stitch counts always include the two selvedges.
• Cables. When shaping leaves too few stitches to complete a cross, work those stitches in stockinette.
• Blocking. Wet-block both pieces to the schematic before seaming so the cabled front matches the back width.
• Optional features (back German short rows; shoulder slope) are written in their own boxed sections and may be skipped without affecting stitch counts.

Abbreviations (US)

German short row (GSR): Work to the turning point, turn, MDS on the first stitch of the new row. On later rows, knit or purl the two legs of each double stitch together as 1 stitch.

2×2 Rib (flat, multiple of 4 sts):

• RS and WS: *K2, p2; rep from * to end. (Because the row begins with k2 and ends with p2, every row is worked the same.)

2×2 Rib (in the round, multiple of 4 sts):

• Every rnd: *K2, p2; rep from * to end.

Stitch Pattern — 40-st Cable Panel

Worked over the center 40 stitches of the front. 8-row repeat.

Row 1 (RS): P4, C8B, p2, C8B, k4, p2, C8F, p4. Row 2 and all WS rows: K4, p8, k2, p12, k2, p8, k4. Row 3: P4, k8, p2, k12, p2, k8, p4. Row 4: As Row 2. Row 5: P4, k8, p2, k4, C8F, p2, k8, p4. Row 6: As Row 2. Row 7: P4, k8, p2, k12, p2, k8, p4. Row 8: As Row 2.

Rep Rows 1–8 for pattern.

Cable Panel Chart (40 sts, 8 rows)

Read RS rows (odd) from right to left; WS rows (even) from left to right.

Sts →   40              29 28 27          16 15 14 13          5  4      1
        |               |  |  |           |  |  |  |           |  |      |
Row 8   k4  p8  k2  p12  k2  p8  k4                         WS
Row 7   p4  k8  p2  k12  p2  k8  p4                         RS
Row 6   k4  p8  k2  p12  k2  p8  k4                         WS
Row 5   p4  k8  p2  k4, C8F  p2  k8  p4                     RS
Row 4   k4  p8  k2  p12  k2  p8  k4                         WS
Row 3   p4  k8  p2  k12  p2  k8  p4                         RS
Row 2   k4  p8  k2  p12  k2  p8  k4                         WS
Row 1   p4  C8B  p2  C8B, k4  p2  C8F  p4                   RS
        |               |  |  |           |  |  |  |           |  |      |
        40              29 28 27          16 15 14 13          5  4      1

Key: p = purl on RS / knit on WS (reverse St st gutters). k = knit on RS / purl on WS. C8B / C8F as defined.

The 12-st braid occupies sts 15–26: C8B, k4 on Row 1; k4, C8F on Row 5.

BACK

With US 4 / 3.5 mm needles and using a German twisted cast-on, CO 124 sts.

Rib: Work 2×2 Rib flat until piece measures 2¼" (6 cm) from the CO edge, ending with a WS row.

Change to US 6 / 4 mm needles.

Next row (RS): Sl 1 wyif, knit to last st, k1. Next row (WS): Sl 1 wyif, purl to last st, k1.

Continue in St st with selvedges as established until piece measures 16" (40.5 cm) from the CO edge, ending with a WS row.

Armhole shaping

Row 1 (RS): BO 6 sts, work to end. (118 sts) Row 2 (WS): BO 6 sts, work to end. (112 sts) Row 3: BO 2 sts, work to end. (110 sts) Row 4: BO 2 sts, work to end. (108 sts) (6 + 2 = 8 sts bound off each side)

Decrease row (RS): Sl 1 wyif, k1, ssk, knit to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2. (2 sts decreased) Next row (WS): Sl 1 wyif, purl to last st, k1.

Rep the last 2 rows 11 more times (12 decrease rows total). (108 − 24 = 84 sts ✓) (8 BO + 12 dec = 20 sts each side; 124 − 40 = 84 sts ✓)

Work even in St st with selvedges until armhole measures 11¾" (30 cm), ending with a WS row. (84 sts = 25 shoulder + 34 back neck + 25 shoulder ✓)

OPTIONAL — German short rows on the back (back-neck rise) Work these instead of the final even rows, beginning when the armhole measures 11¾" (30 cm) at the armhole edge, ending with a WS row. They add about 1" (2.5 cm) of height at center back and do not change the armhole-edge length or the 84-st count.

• GSR 1 (RS): Work to last 25 sts (i.e., work 59 sts), MDS, turn.
• GSR 2 (WS): Work to last 25 sts, MDS, turn.
• GSR 3 (RS): Work to 6 sts before the previous double stitch, MDS, turn.
• GSR 4 (WS): Work to 6 sts before the previous double stitch, MDS, turn.
• GSR 5 (RS): Work to 6 sts before the previous double stitch, MDS, turn.
• GSR 6 (WS): Work to 6 sts before the previous double stitch, MDS, turn.
• Next row (RS): Work across all 84 sts, working each double stitch as 1 st.
• Next row (WS): Work across all 84 sts, working each double stitch as 1 st.

Turns fall inside the 34-st back neck (plus 1–2 sts of each inner shoulder), so the 25-st shoulders keep the same row count as the front for seaming.

Skip this entire box if you prefer a straight back.

Back neck and shoulders

Next row (RS): Work 25 sts and place them on a holder (right shoulder), BO the center 34 sts, work the rem 25 sts (left shoulder). (25 + 34 + 25 = 84 ✓)

Work 1 WS row even on the left shoulder sts.

Place left shoulder 25 sts on a holder. With WS facing, rejoin yarn to the right shoulder sts and work 1 WS row even. Place 25 sts on a holder.

OPTIONAL — Shoulder slope (back) Work this on each 25-st shoulder instead of the single even WS row, before placing sts on the holder. Neck edge is higher; armhole edge is lower.

Working with RS facing, from neck toward armhole:

• SR 1: Work 17 sts, MDS, turn.
• SR 2: Work to neck edge, turn.
• SR 3: Work 9 sts, MDS, turn.
• SR 4: Work to neck edge, turn.
• Next row: Work all 25 sts, working each double stitch as 1 st.

Place 25 sts on a holder. Repeat for the other shoulder, mirroring so the turns always sit toward the armhole.

If you use this option, work the same slope on both front shoulders so the seams match.

Break yarn. Set back aside.

FRONT

With US 4 / 3.5 mm needles and using a German twisted cast-on, CO 124 sts.

Rib: Work 2×2 Rib flat until piece measures 2¼" (6 cm) from the CO edge, ending with a WS row.

Change to US 6 / 4 mm needles.

Establish pattern (RS): Sl 1 wyif, k41, pm, work Cable Panel Row 1 over the next 40 sts, pm, k41, k1. (1 + 41 + 40 + 41 + 1 = 124 sts ✓)

Next row (WS): Sl 1 wyif, p41, sm, work Cable Panel Row 2 over 40 sts, sm, p41, k1.

Continue in established pattern (selvedge + 41 St st + 40-st panel + 41 St st + selvedge), working Cable Panel Rows 1–8, until piece measures 16" (40.5 cm) from the CO edge, ending with a WS row.

Armhole shaping

Keep the 40-st cable panel centered; all armhole shaping is worked in the St st at each side. Maintain selvedges.

Row 1 (RS): BO 6 sts, work in pattern to end. (118 sts) Row 2 (WS): BO 6 sts, work in pattern to end. (112 sts) Row 3: BO 2 sts, work in pattern to end. (110 sts) Row 4: BO 2 sts, work in pattern to end. (108 sts)

Decrease row (RS): Sl 1 wyif, k1, ssk, work in pattern to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2. Next row (WS): Work even in pattern.

Rep the last 2 rows 11 more times (12 decrease rows). (108 − 24 = 84 sts ✓)

You now have: 1 selvedge + 21 St st + 40-st panel + 21 St st + 1 selvedge. (1 + 21 + 40 + 21 + 1 = 84 ✓) The cable panel is fully intact.

Work even in pattern until armhole measures 7¾" (19.5 cm), ending with a WS row.

Shape round neck

Dividing row (RS): Work 34 sts in pattern, join a second ball of yarn and BO the center 16 sts, work rem 34 sts in pattern. (34 + 16 + 34 = 84 ✓)

Work both sides at the same time with separate balls, or complete the left front first, then the right. Instructions below are written both-at-once. Decreases are mirrored.

Stitch map after the divide: 34 sts each side = 25 shoulder sts + 9 sts still to decrease at the neck. (25 + 9 = 34 ✓)

Left front (end of RS rows; wearer’s left — neck at the beginning of RS rows)

Every-row decreases (4 times):

• RS: K1, ssk, work in pattern to end.
• WS: Work in pattern to last 3 sts, ssp, k1.

Work those 2 rows twice (4 rows, 4 sts decreased). (34 − 4 = 30 sts)

Then every RS row 5 times:

• RS: K1, ssk, work in pattern to end.
• WS: Work even in pattern.

(30 − 5 = 25 sts ✓)

Right front (beginning of RS rows; wearer’s right — neck at the end of RS rows)

Every-row decreases (4 times):

• RS: Work in pattern to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
• WS: Sl 1 wyif, p2tog, work in pattern to end.

Work those 2 rows twice (4 rows, 4 sts decreased). (34 − 4 = 30 sts)

Then every RS row 5 times:

• RS: Work in pattern to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
• WS: Work even in pattern.

(30 − 5 = 25 sts ✓)

(Center 16 BO + 9 + 9 = 34 neck sts ✓)

As the neck eats into the cable panel, work any remaining panel stitches in pattern where a full cross still fits; otherwise work them in stockinette.

Work even in pattern on 25 sts each side until armhole measures 11¾" (30 cm), matching the back armhole edge, ending with a WS row.

Place each set of 25 shoulder sts on a holder.

OPTIONAL — Shoulder slope (front) Work the same 4 short rows given for the back shoulders, on each 25-st front shoulder, before placing sts on the holder. Turns sit toward the armhole so the neck edge is higher. Only use this if you also sloped the back shoulders.

FINISHING

Block

Wet-block front and back to the schematic measurements. Pin the cabled front to the same width as the back (28¾" / 73 cm at the hem; 19½" / 49.5 cm at the upper edge). Let dry completely.

Shoulders

With RS together, join each 25-st shoulder with a three-needle bind-off (or mattress stitch if you bound off). (25 sts = 5¾" / 14.7 cm ✓)

Neckband

With US 4 / 3.5 mm 16" (40 cm) circular needle, RS facing, beginning at the left shoulder seam:

Pick up and knit 84 sts around the neck as follows:

• 17 sts down the left front neck edge (shaped + straight)
• 16 sts across the front center bind-off
• 17 sts up the right front neck edge
• 34 sts across the back neck bind-off

(17 + 16 + 17 + 34 = 84 sts ✓)

Why 84: The neck opening perimeter is about 20½" (52 cm). At gauge that is ~88 sts. Ribbing on the smaller needle should be a hair smaller than the opening so the band sits flat: 84 sts is ~5% fewer, a multiple of 4, and matches 2 sts picked up for every 3 rows on the 25-row front slopes (25 × 2/3 ≈ 17) plus 1-for-1 on every bound-off stitch. Too many sts will flare; too few will pucker and feel tight. If you are 1–2 sts off after picking up, increase or decrease evenly on the first round to 84.

Pm for beginning of round. Join.

Work 2×2 Rib in the round until the neckband measures 1¼" (3 cm). BO in rib, neither loose nor tight — the bound-off edge should match the stretch of the rib.

Side seams

With RS together (or using mattress stitch with RS facing you), sew side seams from the top of the hem rib to the underarm bind-off, taking one selvedge stitch from each piece. The 2×2 rib will be slightly interrupted at the seam; this disappears into the mattress stitch.

After seaming, finished chest = (124 − 2) × 2 sts ÷ 17 sts × 4" = 56½" (143.5 cm) ✓

Armhole bands

With US 4 / 3.5 mm 16" (40 cm) circular needle, RS facing, beginning at the center of the underarm:

Pick up and knit 128 sts around the armhole as follows:

• 8 sts across the front underarm bind-off
• 56 sts up the front armhole edge (3 sts for every 4 rows along 75 rows; 75 × 3/4 = 56.25 → 56)
• 56 sts down the back armhole edge
• 8 sts across the back underarm bind-off

(8 + 56 + 56 + 8 = 128 sts ✓, multiple of 4)

Pm for beginning of round. Join.

Work 2×2 Rib in the round until the band measures 1" (2.5 cm). BO in rib.

Repeat for the other armhole.

Armholes use a slightly denser pickup (3-for-4 rather than 2-for-3) so the band does not pull tight across the deep armhole.

Weave and final block

Weave in all ends. Steam or lightly wet-block the bands so they lie flat. Do not stretch the neckband.

Schematic (one piece, Front or Back)

                    5¾" (14.7 cm)   7⅞" (20 cm)   5¾" (14.7 cm)
                   |--------------|--------------|--------------|
                   |         19½" (49.5 cm) upper width         |
                    \                                         /
                     \                                       /
                      \         11¾" (30 cm) armhole        /
                       \                                   /
                        |                                 |
                        |                                 |
                        |       16" (40.5 cm)             |
                        |       hem to underarm           |
                        |                                 |
                        |                                 |
                        |---------------------------------|
                              28¾" (73 cm) piece width

        Full length (hem to shoulder): 28" (71 cm)
        Hem rib: 2¼" (6 cm)
        Finished chest (both pieces, seamed): 56½" (143.5 cm)
        Neck depth (front only): 4" (10 cm)

Front is identical in outline; the 40-st cable panel sits centered on the chest (~8¾–9½" / 22–24 cm wide after blocking) and is consumed by the round neck in the upper 4" (10 cm).

Quick number check (do not knit from this — it is a summary)