purlJam

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# 🧣 Meadow's Edge Triangular Lace Shawl

### A Top-Down Triangular Shawl in Worsted Weight

**Difficulty:** Beginner-Friendly
**Construction:** Top-down from center spine, worked flat on circular needles

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## ✅ ANSWER TO YOUR QUESTION FIRST: Which Needle Do I Use?

> **Use your 100 cm (40") circular needle.**

Here's why, in plain language:

Circular needles are used for shawls even when you knit flat (back and forth) — not because you're knitting in a circle, but because **the flexible cord acts like a long holder for all your stitches.** As your shawl grows, you'll have more and more stitches, and they all need to sit comfortably on that cord without being crammed or falling off the ends.

Think of it like a clothesline: the longer the line, the more laundry (stitches) you can hang on it without everything bunching up.

| Needle Length | What Happens |
|---|---|
| **80 cm (32")** | ❌ Too short — stitches will be crowded and hard to work; the fabric will bunch up uncomfortably |
| **90 cm (36")** — what the pattern calls for | ✅ Ideal |
| **100 cm (40")** — what you have | ✅ **This is your best option.** The stitches will spread out a little more loosely along the cord, but this causes no problems at all when knitting flat. Many experienced shawl knitters actually *prefer* a longer cord. |

**Bottom line:** A needle that is slightly *longer* than recommended is always fine for flat knitting. A needle that is shorter than recommended can make your project very frustrating.

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## PATTERN DETAILS

### Materials

- **Yarn:** Approx. 400–450 yards (365–410 m) of worsted weight yarn
  *(Sample shown in a single-ply wool or wool-blend in a light or medium color, which shows lace best)*
  - Yarn weight symbol: 4 (Medium / Worsted)
- **Needles:** US 8 / 5 mm circular needle, **100 cm (40") cord** *(as discussed above)*
- **Notions:**
  - 2 stitch markers (use different colors if possible — one for each side of center spine)
  - Tapestry needle for weaving in ends
  - Blocking mats, rust-proof pins, and a spray bottle (for finishing)
- **Gauge:** 18 stitches × 24 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) in Garter Stitch
  *(Gauge is not critical for a shawl, but affects finished size)*

### Finished Measurements (after blocking)
- **Wingspan:** approx. 54 inches (137 cm)
- **Depth at center:** approx. 27 inches (69 cm)

> 💡 **Beginner Note — What is Gauge?**
> Gauge means "how many stitches and rows fit in 4 inches of fabric." For a shawl, you don't need to match gauge exactly — your shawl will just be slightly bigger or smaller than the measurements above. If you want to check, knit a small 5-inch square, measure 4 inches across the middle, and count the stitches.

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## ABBREVIATIONS

| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| k | knit |
| p | purl |
| yo | yarn over (creates a new stitch and a small hole — this is the "lace" part!) |
| k2tog | knit 2 stitches together (a right-leaning decrease) |
| ssk | slip, slip, knit (a left-leaning decrease) |
| RS | right side (the "pretty" side facing you) |
| WS | wrong side (the back of the work) |
| st(s) | stitch(es) |
| pm | place marker |
| sm | slip marker |
| rep | repeat |
| BO | bind off |

> 💡 **Beginner Note — What is a Yarn Over?**
> A yarn over is simply wrapping the yarn over your right needle before knitting the next stitch. It creates an extra stitch AND a small decorative hole. Those holes are what make lace look like lace! Don't be nervous — it's easier than it sounds.

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## PATTERN NOTES

1. **The shawl is worked flat** (back and forth in rows), even though you're using circular needles. At the end of each row, turn your work around and knit back the other way.
2. **The shawl grows from the top center down.** Imagine the top of a triangle — you start at that point and expand outward with increases on every right-side row.
3. **The center spine:** The shawl has 3 "spine" stitches running down the center. Increases are made on either side of these spine stitches, growing the two "wings" of the shawl equally.
4. **Stitch markers** sit on either side of the center 3 spine stitches. This divides your needle into: Left wing / Marker / Center 3 sts / Marker / Right wing.
5. **Garter stitch** = knit every row. Both RS and WS rows are knitted. This creates a lovely ridged texture and lies flat without curling.
6. **All increases are made with yarn overs.** Each YO adds one stitch.

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## PATTERN

### SECTION 1: CAST ON

Using the **long-tail cast-on method** (or any cast-on you are comfortable with):

**Cast on 3 stitches.**

These 3 stitches are your center spine.

> ✔️ **Stitch count check:** 3 sts

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### SECTION 2: FOUNDATION ROWS

These rows set up the shape of your shawl before you place the markers.

**Row 1 (RS):** k3.
**Row 2 (WS):** k3.
**Row 3 (RS — first increase row):** k1, yo, k1, yo, k1. *(5 sts)*
**Row 4 (WS):** k5.
**Row 5 (RS):** k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1. *(9 sts)*
**Row 6 (WS):** k9.

> ✔️ **Stitch count check:** 9 sts

**Now place your markers:**
- Knit 3 sts, place marker (pm), knit 3 sts (these are your center spine sts), pm, knit 3 sts.
- You now have: 3 sts / marker / 3 center sts / marker / 3 sts = **9 sts total** ✔️

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### SECTION 3: GARTER STITCH BODY

You will now work the body of the shawl in Garter Stitch with 4 increases on every right-side row.

**Right Side (RS) Increase Row:**
k to 1 st before marker, **yo, k1, sm, k3, sm, k1, yo**, k to end.
*(+4 sts added on every RS row — 1 yo before and after each marker)*

**Wrong Side (WS) Row:**
k to end (knit all stitches).

> 💡 **Beginner Note:** The yo before and after each marker creates the increases. After a while, you'll notice the marker "leans" outward as the wings grow — that's exactly right!

**Repeat these 2 rows** until the shawl measures approximately **22 inches (56 cm)** from the cast-on edge along the center spine, ending after a WS row.

**Expected stitch count:**
- After the foundation, you have 9 sts with 3 sts in each section.
- Every 2 rows (1 RS + 1 WS), you add 4 sts.
- To reach approx. 22" at worsted gauge (~24 rows = 4"), you'll work approx. 40 RS increase rows.
- 9 sts + (40 × 4) = **163 sts** ✔️

> ✔️ **Stitch count check at end of body:** 163 sts
> *(Your actual count may vary slightly depending on your gauge — that is perfectly fine.)*

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### SECTION 4: SIMPLE LACE BORDER

The lace border is worked over **10 rows**. It uses yarn overs paired with decreases (k2tog and ssk), so your stitch count stays the same throughout — the YOs add stitches and the decreases take them away, balancing each other out.

> 💡 **Beginner Note — Lace Math:** Every *yo* adds 1 stitch. Every *k2tog* or *ssk* removes 1 stitch. When they come in pairs, the total stitch count stays the same. This is the secret of lace!

**Lace Border Row Instructions:**

**Border Row 1 (RS):** k2, *yo, k2tog; rep from * to 1 st before marker, k1, sm, k3, sm, k1, *ssk, yo; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.

**Border Row 2 (WS):** k to end.

**Border Row 3 (RS):** k1, yo, k1, *yo, k2tog; rep from * to 1 st before marker, k1, sm, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, sm, k1, *ssk, yo; rep from * to last 2 sts, k1, yo, k1.
*(+4 sts — one increase row to add a final flare)*

**Border Row 4 (WS):** k to end.

**Border Row 5 (RS):** k2, *yo, k2tog; rep from * to 1 st before marker, k1, sm, k3, sm, k1, *ssk, yo; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.

**Border Row 6 (WS):** k to end.

**Border Row 7 (RS):** k1, yo, k1, *yo, k2tog; rep from * to 1 st before marker, k1, sm, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, sm, k1, *ssk, yo; rep from * to last 2 sts, k1, yo, k1.
*(+4 sts)*

**Border Row 8 (WS):** k to end.

**Border Row 9 (RS):** k2, *yo, k2tog; rep from * to 1 st before marker, k1, sm, k3, sm, k1, *ssk, yo; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.

**Border Row 10 (WS):** k to end.

> ✔️ **Stitch count check at end of border:** 163 + 4 + 4 = **171 sts** ✔️

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### SECTION 5: BIND OFF

> ⚠️ **Important for beginners:** The bind-off edge will become the long, curved outer edge of your shawl. If you bind off too tightly, this edge will pucker and won't block out properly.

**Use a stretchy bind-off:**

**Recommended method — k2tog bind-off:**
1. k2tog (insert needle as if to knit, through 2 stitches at once) — 1 st remains on right needle.
2. Slip this stitch back to the left needle.
3. Rep steps 1–2 until all sts are bound off.
4. Cut yarn, leaving an 8-inch (20 cm) tail. Pull tail through last loop to secure.

> 💡 **Alternative:** If you find k2tog bind-off tricky, use a regular bind-off but go up one needle size (use a US 9 / 5.5 mm needle for the bind-off only) to keep it loose.

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### SECTION 6: FINISHING

**Weave in ends:**
Thread your tapestry needle with the cast-on tail. Weave it back and forth through several stitches on the WS of the work near the top of the shawl. Weave in the bind-off tail along the edge. Trim ends to about ½ inch (1.5 cm).

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## BLOCKING INSTRUCTIONS

> 💡 **Why block?** Blocking is the process of wetting your shawl and pinning it into shape to dry. For lace, this is *essential* — it opens up the lace holes and transforms the fabric from a rumpled triangle into a beautiful, even shawl. Don't skip this step!

**You will need:**
- Blocking mats (foam puzzle mats work great)
- Rust-proof T-pins or blocking pins (at least 30–40 pins)
- Spray bottle filled with cool water, OR a clean basin of cool water

**Step-by-step blocking:**

**Step 1 — Wet the shawl:**
- *Option A (Wet blocking):* Fill a clean basin or sink with cool water. Gently submerge the shawl and let it soak for 15–20 minutes. Do NOT agitate or wring — just let it soak. Gently squeeze out excess water (do not wring), then roll in a clean dry towel and press gently to remove more moisture.
- *Option B (Spray blocking):* Lay the dry shawl on your mats in roughly the right shape, then mist heavily with your spray bottle until evenly damp throughout.

**Step 2 — Lay it out:**
Place your damp shawl on your blocking mats. Arrange it roughly into a triangle shape: the straight edge at the top, the long curved edge at the bottom.

**Step 3 — Pin the top edge:**
Find the center top point (where you cast on). Place a pin there. Then pin the two ends of the top straight edge, pulling them gently out to the full 54-inch (137 cm) wingspan.

**Step 4 — Pin the bottom point:**
Find the center bottom point of the triangle. Pull it gently downward until the shawl is the desired 27-inch (69 cm) depth, and place a pin.

**Step 5 — Pin the lace edge:**
Working along the long curved outer edge, place pins every 1–2 inches (2.5–5 cm), easing the fabric into a smooth curve and gently stretching to open the lace pattern. This is where the magic happens!

**Step 6 — Dry completely:**
Allow the shawl to dry completely before unpinning — this may take 12–24 hours depending on your yarn fiber and humidity. Do not rush this step.

**Step 7 — Unpin and enjoy!**
Remove all pins. Your shawl is now ready to wear.

> ⚠️ **Fiber note:** If your yarn is acrylic, wet blocking will not set the shape permanently. For acrylic, use the *steam blocking* method: pin the dry shawl as above, then hold a steam iron 1–2 inches (2.5–5 cm) above the surface (do NOT press down). Allow to cool fully before unpinning.

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## QUICK REFERENCE: STITCH COUNT PROGRESSION

| Point in Pattern | Stitch Count |
|---|---|
| Cast on | 3 sts |
| After foundation (Row 6) | 9 sts |
| After 40 body increase rows | 163 sts |
| After lace border (2 increase rows) | 171 sts |
| After bind-off | 0 sts on needle ✔️ |

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## SUMMARY CARD (Tear-Out Reference)

**Body RS Row:** k to 1 st before m, yo, k1, sm, k3, sm, k1, yo, k to end. (+4 sts)
**Body WS Row:** k all sts.
**Work body until:** ~22" (56 cm) along center spine / ~163 sts.
**Lace Border:** 10 rows as written above. Final count: ~171 sts.
**Bind off:** Stretchy k2tog bind-off.
**Block to:** 54" (137 cm) wingspan × 27" (69 cm) depth.

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*Happy knitting! 🧶 Remember: the 100 cm needle is your friend.*