purlJam

<pattern>

# Medieval Maiden Blouse

A romantic medieval-inspired blouse featuring a dramatic scalloped wavy hem, voluminous puff sleeves, and elegant fitted ribbed lower sleeves. The chunky mustard yellow yarn creates a striking, cosy statement piece perfect for cooler weather. Advanced shaping techniques including short rows and set-in sleeves make this an engaging project for experienced knitters.

## SIZES
S (M, L, XL, 2XL)

**Finished Bust Circumference**: 96 (106, 116, 126, 136) cm / 38 (41.75, 45.75, 49.5, 53.5) inches
*Designed with approximately 10 cm / 4 inches positive ease*

**Finished Length** (from shoulder): 60 (62, 64, 66, 68) cm / 23.5 (24.5, 25.25, 26, 26.75) inches

Sample shown in size M.

## MATERIALS

**Yarn**: 
- Chunky weight yarn (bulky/12-ply), approximately 850 (950, 1050, 1150, 1300) metres / 930 (1040, 1150, 1260, 1420) yards
- Shown in warm mustard yellow
- Sample uses a wool/acrylic blend chunky yarn

**Needles**: 
- 6mm (UK 4, US 10) needles for main fabric - 80 cm circular needle (for body) and straight or circular for flat knitting (for sleeves)
- 5mm (UK 6, US 8) needles for ribbing

**Notions**:
- Stitch markers
- Stitch holders or waste yarn
- Tapestry needle for seaming
- Pins for blocking

## TENSION
14 stitches and 20 rows = 10 cm / 4 inches in stocking stitch on 6mm needles, blocked

**It is essential to achieve the correct tension for proper fit.**

Take time to swatch and adjust needle size if necessary. Your swatch should be at least 15 cm square, worked in stocking stitch, and blocked before measuring.

## ABBREVIATIONS
- k: knit
- p: purl
- st(s): stitch(es)
- RS: right side
- WS: wrong side
- st st: stocking stitch (knit on RS, purl on WS)
- yo: yarn over
- k2tog: knit 2 stitches together (right-leaning decrease)
- ssk: slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
- w&t: wrap and turn (short row technique)
- m1L: make 1 left (lifted increase)
- m1R: make 1 right (lifted increase)
- pm: place marker
- sm: slip marker
- rep: repeat

## PATTERN NOTES

**Construction**: This blouse is worked in pieces from the bottom up. The body front and back are worked separately with a decorative scalloped hem, then joined at the shoulders. Sleeves are worked flat from the top down and set into the armholes. The puff sleeve section features short row shaping for volume, transitioning to a fitted ribbed lower sleeve at the elbow.

**Scalloped Hem**: The wavy edge is created using a traditional scallop pattern with yarn overs and decreases. This creates decorative points along the bottom edge.

**Short Rows**: The puff sleeves use wrap and turn short rows. When you encounter a wrapped stitch on a subsequent row, work the wrap together with the wrapped stitch to hide it.

**Colour**: Work entire garment in the same warm mustard yellow shade.

**Fit**: This blouse is designed with positive ease for a comfortable, relaxed fit through the body with dramatic volume at the upper sleeves.

## INSTRUCTIONS

### BACK

**Scalloped Hem Cast-On**

Using 6mm needles, cast on 64 (74, 84, 94, 104) sts.

*Note: Stitch counts - S: 64 = 6 reps × 10 + 4 edge; M: 74 = 7 reps × 10 + 4; L: 84 = 8 reps × 10 + 4; XL: 94 = 9 reps × 10 + 4; 2XL: 104 = 10 reps × 10 + 4*

**Row 1 (RS)**: K2, *k1, yo, k3, ssk, k2tog, k3, yo; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.
**Row 2 (WS)**: Purl.
**Row 3**: K2, *k2, yo, k2, ssk, k2tog, k2, yo, k1; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.
**Row 4**: Purl.
**Row 5**: K2, *k3, yo, k1, ssk, k2tog, k1, yo, k2; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.
**Row 6**: Purl.
**Row 7**: K2, *k4, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, k3; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.
**Row 8**: Purl.

*Math check Row 1: K2 + [k1+yo+k3+dec(2→1)+dec(2→1)+k3+yo] × reps + k2 = 2 + [10 sts] × reps + 2 = correct count maintained*

Repeat Rows 1-8 once more (16 rows of scalloped pattern completed).

**Body Section**

Continue in st st (knit on RS, purl on WS) until piece measures 38 (39, 40, 41, 42) cm / 15 (15.25, 15.75, 16.25, 16.5) inches from cast-on edge, ending with a WS row.

**Armhole Shaping**

Cast off 4 (5, 6, 7, 8) sts at beginning of next 2 rows. [56 (64, 72, 80, 88) sts]

*Math check M: 74 - 5 - 5 = 64 sts ✓*

**Next Row (RS)**: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. [54 (62, 70, 78, 86) sts]
**Next Row (WS)**: Purl.

Repeat these 2 rows 2 (3, 4, 5, 6) more times. [50 (56, 62, 68, 74) sts]

*Math check M: 64 - 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 = 56 sts ✓*

Continue even in st st until armhole measures 20 (21, 22, 23, 24) cm / 8 (8.25, 8.75, 9, 9.5) inches, ending with a WS row.

**Shoulder Shaping**

Cast off 4 (5, 5, 6, 6) sts at beginning of next 4 rows. [34 (36, 42, 44, 50) sts]

Cast off 4 (4, 5, 5, 6) sts at beginning of next 2 rows. [26 (28, 32, 34, 38) sts]

Cast off remaining sts for back neck.

### FRONT

Work as for Back until armhole measures 15 (16, 17, 18, 19) cm / 6 (6.25, 6.75, 7, 7.5) inches, ending with a WS row. [50 (56, 62, 68, 74) sts]

**Neck Shaping**

**Next Row (RS)**: K18 (20, 22, 25, 27), place centre 14 (16, 18, 18, 20) sts on holder for front neck, join second ball of yarn, k18 (20, 22, 25, 27).

*Math check M: 20 + 16 + 20 = 56 sts ✓*

Working both sides simultaneously with separate balls of yarn:

**Next Row (WS)**: Purl to 3 sts before neck edge, p2tog, p1; on second side: p1, ssp (sl1, sl1, purl slipped sts together), purl to end. [17 (19, 21, 24, 26) sts each side]

**Next Row (RS)**: Knit to 3 sts before neck edge, k2tog, k1; on second side: k1, ssk, knit to end. [16 (18, 20, 23, 25) sts each side]

Repeat these 2 rows 3 (3, 4, 4, 5) more times. [12 (14, 15, 18, 19) sts each side]

*Math check M: 19 - 1 - 1 - 1 - 1 = 15... recalculate: 20 - 1 (first dec) = 19, 19 - 1 - 1 - 1 - 1 - 1 - 1 (3 more RS and WS pairs) = 13... adjusting: need 14 sts final*

*Correction: Repeat last 2 rows 2 (3, 3, 4, 4) more times. [13 (14, 16, 18, 19) sts each side]*

Continue even until armhole measures same as Back to shoulder, ending with a WS row.

**Shoulder Shaping**

At armhole edge, cast off 4 (5, 5, 6, 6) sts twice, then 5 (4, 6, 6, 7) sts once.

*Math check M: 14 - 5 - 5 - 4 = 0 sts ✓*

### SLEEVES (make 2)

**Puff Sleeve Section**

Using 6mm needles, cast on 30 (32, 34, 36, 38) sts.

**Row 1 (RS)**: Knit.
**Row 2 (WS)**: Purl.
**Row 3**: K1, m1R, knit to last st, m1L, k1. [32 (34, 36, 38, 40) sts]
**Row 4**: Purl.

Repeat Rows 3-4 five more times. [42 (44, 46, 48, 50) sts]

*Math check M: 32 + 2 + 2 + 2 + 2 + 2 + 2 = 44 sts ✓*

**Short Row Shaping for Puff** (creates volume)

**SR Row 1 (RS)**: K36 (38, 40, 42, 44), w&t.
**SR Row 2 (WS)**: P30 (32, 34, 36, 38), w&t.
**SR Row 3**: Knit to wrapped st, work wrap together with st, k4, w&t.
**SR Row 4**: Purl to wrapped st, work wrap together with st, p4, w&t.

Repeat SR Rows 3-4 once more.

**Next Row (RS)**: Knit to end, working remaining wraps together with sts.
**Next Row (WS)**: Purl.

**Continue even** in st st for 6 (6, 8, 8, 10) more rows.

**Increase for fullest part of puff**:

**Next Row (RS)**: K1, m1R, knit to last st, m1L, k1. [44 (46, 48, 50, 52) sts]

Work 3 rows even.

Repeat these 4 rows 4 more times. [52 (54, 56, 58, 60) sts]

*Math check M: 44 + 2 + 2 + 2 + 2 + 2 = 54 sts ✓*

Continue even until puff sleeve section measures 23 (24, 25, 26, 27) cm / 9 (9.5, 9.75, 10.25, 10.5) inches from cast-on edge, ending with a WS row.

**Transition to Fitted Sleeve**

**Next Row (RS)**: K1, *k2tog, k3; rep from * to last st, k1. [42 (44, 46, 48, 49) sts]

*Math check M: 54 sts, decrease 10-11 sts = 43-44 sts target... 54 ÷ 5 = 10 repe