purlJam

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# ✦ MÉLODIE BLANCHE ✦
### A White Lace Peasant Sweater for Machine Knitting
**Advanced Level | Drop-Shoulder Construction | Fingering Weight**

---

## SECTION 1: TITLE & OVERVIEW

**Mélodie Blanche** is a romantic, peasant-inspired pullover featuring allover transfer lace, a cinched waist with gentle shaping, a gracefully draped hanged hem at hip length, billowing puff three-quarter sleeves, and a wide scoop neckline. Worked in crisp white fingering-weight yarn on a standard-gauge knitting machine, this garment celebrates the delicate interplay of lace and silhouette. Panels are worked flat and seamed for maximum stitch definition and ease of lace management.

---

## SECTION 2: MACHINE SETUP

### Machine Requirements
- **Machine Type**: Standard-gauge flatbed knitting machine (4.5 mm / 200-needle bed)
- **Beds in Use**: Main bed only for body and lace sections; ribber attached for welts and waist casing
- **Lace Method**: Manual transfer lace (using 1×1 or 2×1 transfer tool); OR lace carriage if your machine supports it. Instructions below describe **manual transfer lace** for universal compatibility.
- **Punchcard/Electronics**: If using a lace carriage, program the lace repeat (charted in Section 4). If working manually, follow the stitch-by-stitch transfer chart provided.

### Pre-Knitting Machine Setup Checklist
1. **Clean and oil** your machine. Thread yarn guides and mast.
2. **Attach ribber**: Set ribber pitch to P (half-pitch). Ensure beds are level.
3. **Sponge bar**: Replace if compressed — critical for fingering weight.
4. **Cast-on comb**: Use the fine-gauge cast-on comb or a wire cast-on comb.
5. **Ravel cord**: Thread a length of smooth, contrasting ravel cord (nylon or acrylic recommended) for waste yarn cast-on.
6. **Weights**: Use fine wire mesh weights or bulldog clip weights. Hang close to needle bed throughout for fingering weight.
7. **Carriage levers (main bed)**:
   - Part button: OFF for plain knitting; engage as needed for hold technique
   - Slip: OFF
   - Tuck: OFF
   - KC lever (if punchcard): Set to appropriate position when using lace carriage
8. **Tension dial**: Begin at T5 for main yarn swatching. Adjust per swatch result (see Section 4).

### Yarn Threading
- Thread main yarn through **yarn mast, tension unit, and yarn feeder #1**.
- Use a **yarn net or yarn bowl** to control the cone and prevent tangling with fine fingering weight.
- For transfer lace: main yarn remains in feeder #1 throughout. No second colour required.

---

## SECTION 3: MATERIALS

| Item | Specification |
|---|---|
| **Yarn** | 100% Mercerised Cotton or Cotton-Linen blend, fingering weight (1 / Super Fine), approx. 400–500m / 100g |
| **Colour** | White (optical white or soft white / ecru — your choice) |
| **Yardage** | XS: 1,400 yds / S: 1,550 yds / M: 1,700 yds / L: 1,850 yds / XL: 2,000 yds |
| **Machine** | Standard gauge, 4.5 mm (e.g., Silver Reed SK840, Brother KH970, or equivalent) |
| **Ribber** | Standard ribber attachment (e.g., Silver Reed SRP60N or Brother KR850) |
| **Tension Dial** | T5–T6 (verify with swatch) |
| **Needles** | All standard needles in use; no special needles required |
| **Transfer Tools** | 1×1 transfer tool, 2×1 transfer tool, 3-prong transfer tool |
| **Latch Tool** | Standard latch tool for bind-off |
| **Cast-on Comb** | Fine-gauge cast-on comb + claw weights |
| **Ravel Cord** | Smooth nylon cord in contrasting colour |
| **Waste Yarn** | Smooth, similar-weight waste yarn in contrasting colour |
| **Tapestry Needle** | Size 18–20, blunt tip |
| **Sewing Thread** | White polyester thread for reinforcing seams (optional) |
| **Elastic** | ¼ inch (6 mm) soft elastic, approx. 1.5× your waist measurement |
| **Blocking Board** | Sweater board or foam mat with T-pins |
| **Steam Iron / Steamer** | With pressing cloth for cotton |

---

## SECTION 4: GAUGE AND TENSION

### Swatch Instructions — COMPLETE THIS BEFORE STARTING

> ⚠️ **Lace alters gauge significantly.** You MUST swatch with the lace pattern, not plain stockinette. Do not skip this step.

**To Make a Gauge Swatch:**

1. Cast on **60 stitches** using waste yarn and ravel cord method (see cast-on method below).
2. Knit **10 rows** waste yarn at T7.
3. Pull up ravel cord.
4. Knit **6 rows** main yarn at T5 (plain stocking stitch).
5. Work **40 rows** of the Fleur de Lace repeat (see lace chart, Section 4B) at T5.
6. Knit **6 rows** plain stocking stitch at T5.
7. Knit **10 rows** waste yarn at T7. Remove from machine.
8. Allow swatch to **rest 30 minutes**.
9. **Steam press** from wrong side using a damp pressing cloth. Do not drag iron. Pat flat and allow to dry completely.
10. Measure **4 inches (10 cm)** across centre of swatch (avoid edges), counting stitches.
11. Measure **4 inches (10 cm)** vertically, counting rows.

### Target Gauge
| Measurement | Over Lace Pattern, After Steaming |
|---|---|
| **Stitch Gauge** | **34 stitches = 4 inches (10 cm)** |
| **Row Gauge** | **46 rows = 4 inches (10 cm)** |

- If your swatch is **wider** than 4 inches per 34 sts: decrease tension (turn dial down, e.g., T4.5).
- If your swatch is **narrower** than 4 inches per 34 sts: increase tension (e.g., T5.5).
- **Record your personal tension dial setting** and use it consistently throughout.

### Quick Reference Conversion
- 1 stitch = 0.118 inches (3 mm)
- 1 row = 0.087 inches (2.2 mm)
- 10 stitches = 1.18 inches (3 cm)
- 10 rows = 0.87 inches (2.2 cm)

---

### 4B: THE FLEUR DE LACE PATTERN

This is a **6-stitch, 8-row repeat** lace pattern worked by manual transfer. It creates a delicate eyelet diamond with floral centre, perfect for the peasant aesthetic.

**Lace Repeat Chart** (6 sts × 8 rows, read bottom to top, right to left for COR pass):

```
Row 8: K all sts plain
Row 7: Transfer st 2→1, st 5→6 (2 eyelets)
Row 6: K all sts plain
Row 5: Transfer st 3→2, st 4→5 (2 eyelets, inner)
Row 4: K all sts plain
Row 3: Transfer st 3→2, st 4→5 (repeat inner)
Row 2: K all sts plain
Row 1: Transfer st 2→1, st 5→6 (outer eyelets)
```

**Working the Transfer Lace:**
- After every transfer row, the vacated needle is pushed back to A (non-working) position temporarily; the carriage passes over it, creating the eyelet as yarn bridges across.
- After the carriage pass, the empty needle is pushed back to B (working) position.
- The transferred stitch on the receiving needle now holds 2 loops; the next carriage pass knits them together naturally.
- **Always transfer with carriage parked at one end. Transfer, THEN pass carriage.**
- Stagger the repeat across the needle bed so that eyelets create an allover diamond lattice.

**Full-Width Lace Setup** (for e.g., 148-needle back panel):
- The 6-stitch repeat fits 148 ÷ 6 = 24 full repeats with **4 sts remainder**.
- Work 2 selvedge stitches each side in plain knit; fit 24 repeats across centre 144 stitches.
- The lace pattern begins after the hem.

---

## SECTION 5: SCHEMATIC AND SIZES

### Size Chart

| Size | XS | S | M | L | XL |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| **Finished Bust** | 34 in (86 cm) | 37 in (94 cm) | 40 in (102 cm) | 43 in (109 cm) | 46 in (117 cm) |
| **Finished Waist** | 26 in (66 cm) | 28.5 in (72 cm) | 31 in (79 cm) | 33.5 in (85 cm) | 36 in (91 cm) |
| **Finished Hip** | 36 in (91 cm) | 39 in (99 cm) | 42 in (107 cm) | 45 in (114 cm) | 48 in (122 cm) |
| **Total Length** (hem to shoulder) | 22 in (56 cm) | 22.5 in (57 cm) | 23 in (58 cm) | 23.5 in (60 cm) | 24 in (61 cm) |
| **Sleeve Length** (3/4, from underarm) | 13 in (33 cm) | 13 in (33 cm) | 13.5 in (34 cm) | 13.5 in (34 cm) | 14 in (36 cm) |
| **Sleeve Width at Cuff** | 9.5 in (24 cm) | 10 in (25 cm) | 10.5 in (27 cm) | 11 in (28 cm) | 11.5 in (29 cm) |
| **Sleeve Width at Top** (before gathering) | 15.5 in (39 cm) | 16 in (41 cm) | 16.5 in (42 cm) | 17.5 in (44 cm) | 18 in (46 cm) |
| **Scoop Neck Width** | 8 in (20 cm) | 8.5 in (22 cm) | 9 in (23 cm) | 9.5 in (24 cm) | 10 in (25 cm) |
| **Scoop Neck Depth** | 3.5 in (9 cm) | 3.5 in (9 cm) | 4 in (10 cm) | 4 in (10 cm) | 4 in (10 cm) |

### Stitch Count Table

| Size | XS | S | M | L | XL |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| **Back/Front cast-on (hip/hem)** | 148 | 160 | 172 | 184 | 196 |
| **Waist (cinched)** | 112 | 122 | 132 | 142 | 152 |
| **Back/Front at bust** | 148 | 160 | 172 | 184 | 196 |
| **Sts each shoulder** | 44 | 50 | 56 | 62 | 68 |
| **Scoop neck sts (front, cast off)** | 60 | 60 | 60 | 60 | 60 |
| **Sleeve cast-on (cuff)** | 80 | 84 | 88 | 92 | 96 |
| **Sleeve at top (before seam)** | 130 | 136 | 142 | 148 | 154 |

> **Note on ease**: This pattern includes 0–2 inches of ease at the bust (the peasant style is intended to be relaxed at the body and cinched at the waist). The sleeve top is intentionally 3–4 inches wider than the sleeve opening to create puff volume when gathered.

### Schematic (Approximate, Size M shown)

```
         ←—— 20 in ——→
    ___________________________
   |   BACK / FRONT PANEL     |
   |  (same silhouette)       |  ↑
   |                          |  23 in total length
   |  shoulder: 6.5 in each   |
   |  neck opening: 9 in      |
   |__________________________|
   |        BUST AREA         |  ↑ ~9 in body
   |        172 sts           |
   |    ~~~lace throughout~~~  |
   |  ↑ increase back to hip  |
   |  waist: 132 sts          |  ← cinch
   |  ↓ decrease to waist     |
   |  ~~~ lace ~~~            |
   |        HEM AREA          |
   |  172 sts (hip width)     |  ↓ 2 in hem
   |__________________________|
   ↓ hanged hem (folded, ~2 in)

   SLEEVE (one shown, 3/4 length):
   ←— 16.5 in (puff head) —→
    __________________________
   |     puff sleeve head     |
   |    (extra ease gathered) |
   |  ~~~~~~~~lace~~~~~~~~~   |  ↑ 13.5 in
   | increase each side       |
   |    every 6 rows          |
   |    ←— 10.5 in cuff —→    |
   |__________________________|
   |   ribbed wrist cuff ~1.5 in  |
```

---

## SECTION 6: BACK PANEL

### Cast-On Method: Waste Yarn / Ravel Cord

1. Push into work the required number of needles, centred on the needle bed:
   - XS: 148 | S: 160 | M: 172 | L: 184 | XL: 196
   - Example: For M (172 sts), push needles 1–86 to the right of centre 0, and 1–86 to the left of centre 0 (total 172 needles in work, positions 86L to 86R).
2. Set carriage to T7. Thread waste yarn into feeder #1.
3. Carriage to the RIGHT (COR). Hang cast-on comb across all needles.
4. Knit **8 rows** waste yarn (RC000–RC008).
5. Lay ravel cord across the work, hooking into every needle hook. Do NOT knit the ravel cord.
6. Continue knitting **2 more rows** waste yarn (RC009–RC010).
7. Thread main yarn (white). Set tension to **T5** (or your personal swatch tension).
8. RC000. **Reset row counter.**

---

### 6A: HANGED HEM

**RC000–RC024** (approx. 2 inches / 5 cm)
- COR. T5. Knit **24 rows** plain stocking stitch in main yarn.
- At **RC012**, rehang main yarn evenly using a 3-prong transfer tool or latch tool to mark the fold line: manually pick up every stitch from the **first main-yarn row** (just above the ravel cord) and place each loop onto its corresponding live needle. This creates a double layer for the hem.
- The folded hem is now live on the needles. Continue knitting.

> ⚙️ **Hem Hanging Technique**: With carriage parked at left (COL), carefully lift the first row of main yarn (the row immediately above the ravel cord) loop by loop using the fine transfer tool. Rehang each loop onto its matching needle alongside the live stitch. Knit one row to join (RC024 becomes the joining row). This creates a neat, invisible folded hem edge.

- At **RC024**: Hem join complete. The hem will drape as a "hanged" or tulip hem at the hip. ✅

---

### 6B: LOWER BODY — HIP TO WAIST (Decrease Section)

**Begin lace pattern at RC025.**

**RC025–RC084** (60 rows = approx. 5.2 inches / 13 cm)

This section tapers from hip width to waist width:
- **XS**: 148 → 112 sts (reduce 36 sts = 18 decreases, 2 sts per decrease row)
- **S**: 160 → 122 sts (reduce 38 sts = 19 decreases)
- **M**: 172 → 132 sts (reduce 40 sts = 20 decreases)
- **L**: 184 → 142 sts (reduce 42 sts = 21 decreases)
- **XL**: 196 → 152 sts (reduce 44 sts = 22 decreases)

**Decrease Schedule** (decrease every 3rd row, COR, 1 stitch each end):

> **How to Decrease on Main Bed**: Using the 2×1 transfer tool, move the outermost stitch onto the adjacent stitch (1 stitch in from each edge). Push the vacated needle to A (non-working) position. This creates a fully-fashioned decrease visible as a decorative line on the garment.

| Decrease Row | RC | Action |
|---|---|---|
| Dec 1 | RC027 | Transfer needle 148(160/172/184/196) onto 147; transfer needle 1 onto 2. Push empty needles to A position. |
| Dec 2 | RC030 | Repeat. |
| Dec 3 | RC033 | Repeat. |
| … | every 3 rows | Continue until all decreases complete. |
| Final dec | RC084 | Final decrease worked. |

> 📌 **RC Check RC084**: Stitch count should now be **112(122, 132, 142, 152)** sts. Verify before continuing.

- Continue lace pattern throughout this section.
- **Hang additional claw weights** at the edges as needles are removed from work to maintain even tension.

---

### 6C: WAIST BAND / CASING — ELASTIC CHANNEL

**RC085–RC120** (36 rows = approx. 3.1 inches / 8 cm)

The waist casing is worked in **plain 1×1 rib on main bed + ribber**, creating a channel for ¼ inch elastic insertion.

1. At RC084, carriage is at whichever end the last row finished. Carriage to LEFT (COL).
2. **Engage ribber**. Transfer alternate stitches to ribber (1×1 arrangement using ribber transfer carriage or manually).
3. Set **main bed T4, ribber T4** (slightly tighter for rib elasticity).
4. Knit **36 rows** 1×1 rib. (RC085–RC120)
5. At **RC120**: rib complete.
6. Transfer all rib stitches back to main bed only (deactivate ribber). Reset to T5.

> **Elastic Insertion**: Leave a 1.5 inch (4 cm) opening on one side seam when finishing. Thread elastic through the casing after final seaming. Adjust to fit. Overlap elastic ends 1 inch and stitch. Close side seam opening.

> 📌 **RC Check RC120**: Stitch count **112(122, 132, 142, 152)** sts on main bed. Ribber disengaged.

---

### 6D: UPPER BODY — WAIST TO BUST (Increase Section)

**RC121–RC180** (60 rows = approx. 5.2 inches / 13 cm)

This section increases from waist width back to hip/bust width:
- Same stitch numbers as the decrease section (reverse of 6B).

**Increase Schedule** (increase every 3rd row, 1 stitch each end):

> **How to Increase on Main Bed**: Push the next outboard needle from A position to B (working) position at the beginning of every 3rd row. Loop yarn manually around this new needle before the carriage passes (e-wrap cast-on for new needle), OR use the reverse of the transfer decrease: place a new loop using a latch tool.

| Increase Row | RC | Action |
|---|---|---|
| Inc 1 | RC123 | Bring 1 needle into work each end. E-wrap or loop yarn. |
| Inc 2 | RC126 | Repeat. |
| … | every 3 rows | Continue until all increases complete. |
| Final inc | RC180 | Back to full bust width. |

- Continue lace pattern throughout this section.

> 📌 **RC Check RC180**: Stitch count should be **148(160, 172, 184, 196)** sts. Verify.

---

### 6E: UPPER BODY — BUST TO ARMHOLE

**RC181–RC280** (100 rows = approx. 8.7 inches / 22 cm)

- COR or COL (whichever position carriage is in). T5.
- Knit **100 rows plain lace** pattern. No shaping. Drop-shoulder construction — no armhole shaping required.
- Continue lace pattern consistently throughout.
- **Rehang weights** every 20 rows to maintain even tension.

> 📌 **RC Check RC280**: Stitch count **148(160, 172, 184, 196)** sts. This is the armhole/shoulder level.

---

### 6F: BACK NECKLINE SHAPING

**RC281–RC308** (approx. 2.5 inches / 6 cm)

The back neck is a **gentle shallow scoop** (1 inch / 2.5 cm deep).

Back neck stitches and shoulder arrangement:
| Size | Left Shoulder | Centre Back Neck | Right Shoulder |
|---|---|---|---|
| XS | 44 sts | 60 sts | 44 sts |
| S | 50 sts | 60 sts | 50 sts |
| M | 56 sts | 60 sts | 56 sts |
| L | 62 sts | 60 sts | 62 sts |
| XL | 68 sts | 60 sts | 68 sts |

**Working the Back Neck:**

1. **RC281**: COR. Knit to end. COL.
2. Place the **centre 60 stitches** on hold (push to hold position / HP). Carriage in Part mode.
3. Carriage works **right shoulder stitches only** (right of centre).
4. **RC282–RC295**: Shape right back neck (shallow curve):
   - RC282 COL: Hold 1 additional st at neck edge (total held = 61 sts centre-right).
   - RC284 COL: Hold 1 additional st.
   - RC286 COL: Hold 1 additional st.
   - Continue adding 1 stitch to hold every 2 rows, 3 times total (3 sts shaped) until **RC288**.
   - RC289–RC295: Knit right shoulder straight (44/50/56/62/68 remaining sts).
5. At **RC295**: Right shoulder complete. Do NOT cast off yet.
6. **Transfer right shoulder stitches to waste yarn** using the transfer carriage or manually loading onto a needle holder / spare yarn.
7. Return carriage to centre. Re-engage left shoulder stitches (mirror image of right).
8. Repeat steps 4–6 for **left shoulder** (RC296–RC308, mirror shaping).
9. Centre back neck held stitches remain on needles for neckband pick-up.

> 📌 **RC Check RC308**: Back panel complete. Shoulder sts on waste yarn holders. Centre back neck sts on needles.

---

## SECTION 7: FRONT PANEL

The front panel is worked identically to the back panel **through RC260**, at which point the scoop neckline begins — it is deeper than the back neck.

Repeat all steps from **Section 6 (Back Panel)** for the Front Panel, **Sections 6A through 6E inclusive**, following identical RC values and stitch counts.

### 7A: FRONT NECKLINE SHAPING (Deep Scoop)

**RC261–RC308** (approx. 4 inches / 10 cm depth from start of shaping to shoulder)

**Begin front neck shaping at RC261.**

Front neck arrangement (same as back):
| Size | Left Shoulder | Centre Front Neck | Right Shoulder |
|---|---|---|---|
| XS | 44 sts | 60 sts | 44 sts |
| S | 50 sts | 60 sts | 50 sts |
| M | 56 sts | 60 sts | 56 sts |
| L | 62 sts | 60 sts | 62 sts |
| XL | 68 sts | 60 sts | 68 sts |

**Working the Front Scoop Neck:**

1. **RC261**: COR. Knit to end. COL.
2. Put **centre 40 stitches** on hold (HP). Set carriage to Part/Hold mode.
3. Work **right front shoulder** first (right of needle bed centre):

**Right Front Neck Shaping** (RC262–RC295):
| RC | Action | COR/COL |
|---|---|---|
| RC262 | Hold 2 sts at neck edge | COL→COR |
| RC264 | Hold 2 sts at neck edge | COL→COR |
| RC266 | Hold 2 sts at neck edge | COL→COR |
| RC268 | Hold 1 st at neck edge | COL→COR |
| RC270 | Hold 1 st at neck edge | COL→COR |
| RC272 | Hold 1 st at neck edge | COL→COR |
| RC274 | Hold 1 st at neck edge | COL→COR |
| RC276 | Hold 1 st at neck edge | COL→COR |
| RC278–RC295 | Knit right shoulder straight | — |

> After shaping: 10 additional sts held at right neck = 40 centre + 10 right = 50 sts total off right side. Right shoulder has **44(50, 56, 62, 68)** sts remaining. ✅

4. At **RC295**: Transfer right front shoulder stitches to waste yarn holder.
5. Return carriage. Work **left front neck** as mirror image (RC296–RC308).
6. Transfer left front shoulder stitches to waste yarn holder.
7. Return centre held stitches and all neck-edge held stitches to work position for neckband.

> 📌 **RC Check RC308**: Front panel complete. Shoulder sts on holders. All neckline sts remain on needles or rehung for neckband.

---

## SECTION 8: SLEEVES (Make 2, Identical)

### Overview
The sleeve is worked from cuff upward. It begins with a ribbed cuff, then increases to a wide sleeve head to create puff volume. The extra width is gathered into the drop shoulder opening when seaming, creating the puff effect. The lace pattern runs through the body of the sleeve.

### Cast-On for Sleeve

**Sleeve Stitch Counts:**
| Size | Cuff CO | Final Width (top) |
|---|---|---|
| XS | 80 sts | 130 sts |
| S | 84 sts | 136 sts |
| M | 88 sts | 142 sts |
| L | 92 sts | 148 sts |
| XL | 96 sts | 154 sts |

Centre the sleeve stitches on needle bed:
- For M (88 sts): needles 44L to 44R.

Cast on using waste yarn and ravel cord as described in Section 6. Knit 8 rows waste, lay ravel cord, 2 rows waste. Thread main yarn. **RC000**.

---

### 8A: SLEEVE CUFF (Ribbed)

**RC000–RC018** (approx. 1.5 inches / 4 cm)

1. Engage ribber. Transfer alternate stitches to ribber (1×1 rib).
2. T4 main bed, T4 ribber.
3. Knit **18 rows** 1×1 rib. (RC001–RC018)
4. Transfer all rib stitches back to main bed. Disengage ribber.
5. Set T5.

> 📌 **RC Check RC018**: Cuff complete. Stitch count **80(84, 88, 92, 96)** sts.

---

### 8B: SLEEVE BODY — INCREASE SECTION (Lace)

**RC019–RC218** (200 rows = approx. 13–14 inches / 33–36 cm)

Begin lace pattern at RC019 (same Fleur de Lace repeat as body — stagger the repeat to align with the number of stitches in use).

**Increase Schedule:**
- Increase **1 stitch each end** (2 sts per increase row) every **8 rows**.
- Total increases needed:
  - XS: (130–80) ÷ 2 = 25 increase rows → 25 × 8 = 200 rows ✅
  - S: (136–84) ÷ 2 = 26 increase rows → 26 × 8 = 208 rows (adjust: increase every 7–8 rows alternating) ≈ 200 rows ✅
  - M: (142–88) ÷ 2 = 27 increase rows → 27 × 8 = 216 rows (adjust: work extra increase rows at last third of sleeve) ≈ 200 rows ✅
  - L: (148–92) ÷ 2 = 28 increase rows → increase every 7 rows = 196 rows ≈ 200 rows ✅
  - XL: (154–96) ÷ 2 = 29 increase rows → increase every 7 rows = 203 rows ≈ 200 rows ✅

**Increase Action** (every 8 rows for XS; every 7–8 rows for other sizes):
> Push 1 needle to B (working) position at EACH END of the needle bed. E-wrap these needles before the carriage passes OR use latch tool to pull up a loop. Then knit the pass. These new stitches join the lace pattern repeat as seamlessly as possible (adjust the repeat start/end on edge stitches as needed).

| Increase Checkpoint | RC | Action | Running St Count (M) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Start | RC019 | Begin lace | 88 |
| Inc 1 | RC027 | +1 each end | 90 |
| Inc 2 | RC035 | +1 each end | 92 |
| Inc 3 | RC043 | +1 each end | 94 |
| Inc 4 | RC051 | +1 each end | 96 |
| Inc 5 | RC059 | +1 each end | 98 |
| Inc 6 | RC067 | +1 each end | 100 |
| Inc 7 | RC075 | +1 each end | 102 |
| Inc 8 | RC083 | +1 each end | 104 |
| Inc 9 | RC091 | +1 each end | 106 |
| Inc 10 | RC099 | +1 each end | 108 |
| Inc 11 | RC107 | +1 each end | 110 |
| Inc 12 | RC115 | +1 each end | 112 |
| Inc 13 | RC123 | +1 each end | 114 |
| Inc 14 | RC131 | +1 each end | 116 |
| Inc 15 | RC139 | +1 each end | 118 |
| Inc 16 | RC147 | +1 each end | 120 |
| Inc 17 | RC155 | +1 each end | 122 |
| Inc 18 | RC163 | +1 each end | 124 |
| Inc 19 | RC171 | +1 each end | 126 |
| Inc 20 | RC179 | +1 each end | 128 |
| Inc 21 | RC187 | +1 each end | 130 |
| Inc 22 | RC195 | +1 each end | 132 |
| Inc 23 | RC203 | +1 each end | 134 |
| Inc 24 | RC211 | +1 each end | 136 |
| Inc 25 | RC219 | +1 each end | 138 |
| Inc 26 | RC227 (adjust) | +1 each end | 140 |
| Inc 27 | RC235 | +1 each end | 142 |
| End | RC218+ | All increases done per size | — |

> **For M size (27 increases needed)**: Work increases every 8 rows until RC195 (24 increases done, 136 sts), then increase every 4 rows for final 3 increases (RC199, RC203, RC207), reaching 142 sts by approximately RC207. Knit even to RC218.

> 📌 **RC Check RC218**: Final stitch count should be **130(136, 142, 148, 154)** sts. Verify before cast-off.

---

### 8C: SLEEVE CAST-OFF

**RC219 (approximately)**

At the end of the increase section, sleeve top needs to be cast off with a **loose, stretchy bind-off** to allow gathering.

**Latch Tool Bind-Off** (recommended for stretch):
1. With carriage parked at left (COL), remove yarn from feeder.
2. Starting from the right-hand side, use the latch tool to cast off 1 stitch at a time: slip the latch tool through the first stitch, lay yarn across, pull through.
3. Continue across all stitches.
4. Pull yarn tail through the final loop. Knot to secure.

> ⚠️ **Keep the bind-off loose.** A tight bind-off here will prevent gathering for the puff effect. Alternatively, cast off over a larger needle or use a 3-needle bind-off when joining to the body (see Finishing).

> **Make 2 sleeves.** Remove from machine. Pull out ravel cord. The cuff waste yarn will release, leaving a clean live edge which is already enclosed in the rib.

---

## SECTION 9: NECKBAND

### Overview
The neckband is a 1×1 ribbed scoop-shaped band, worked after the body panels are complete. It is picked up directly from the live neckline stitches left on the needles and the shoulder seams.

### 9A: Joining Shoulders First

Before working the neckband, join the shoulder seams:

1. **3-Needle Bind-Off at Shoulders** (for a clean, flat seam):
   - Place back right shoulder stitches (from waste yarn holder) back onto the main bed.
   - Place front right shoulder stitches (from waste yarn holder) on top (wrong sides together / inside out arrangement on machine).
   - Using a latch tool, perform a **3-needle bind-off**: knit through both layers simultaneously to seam and bind off at once.
   - Repeat for left shoulder.
2. The garment now has both shoulder seams joined and a continuous neckline.

### 9B: Picking Up Neckline Stitches

1. Turn the work so the **right side faces you** (body hangs below the machine).
2. Rehang the neckline stitches onto the main bed:
   - **Centre back** held stitches: rehang these live stitches directly onto the needles.
   - **Back neck curve** (held stitches from shaped rows): rehang these stitches in order.
   - **Front neck curve** (held stitches from shaped rows): rehang these stitches, picking up the outer edge loops along the shaped curve using a fine transfer tool or latch tool — approximately **1 stitch per row** along the vertical curve sections.
   - **Centre front** held stitches: rehang directly.

**Approximate total neckline stitch count:**
| Size | Total Neckline Sts (approx.) |
|---|---|
| XS | 148 |
| S | 156 |
| M | 164 |
| L | 172 |
| XL | 180 |

> These are approximate. Spread stitches evenly around the neckline opening on the machine. The ribber will add elasticity so exact count is flexible — adjust to nearest even number.

### 9C: Knitting the Neckband

1. Engage ribber. Set up 1×1 rib (alternate stitches on main bed and ribber).
2. Set **main bed T3, ribber T3** (tighter than body to keep neckband from stretching out).
3. Knit **16 rows** 1×1 rib (approx. 1.5 inches / 4 cm). RC016.
4. Knit **1 row** at T6 (looser) for turning row / fold line.
5. Knit **16 more rows** 1×1 rib at T3 (inner neckband layer).
6. Transfer all stitches back to main bed (deactivate ribber).

### 9D: Binding Off the Neckband

**Option A — Latch Tool Bind-Off** (most common):
- With all stitches on main bed, use the latch tool to bind off every stitch loosely. Leave a long yarn tail.
- Fold the neckband at the turning row (row 17) to the inside. The loose bind-off edge is tucked inside and hand-stitched down using the yarn tail and a tapestry needle (whip stitch or mattress stitch).

**Option B — Sewn Bind-Off** (for even more stretch):
- Transfer all stitches to a length of waste yarn.
- Remove from machine.
- Use a tapestry needle and Kitchener stitch to graft the inner neckband to the inside of the garment along the original neckline pick-up row.

> **Recommendation for this garment**: Option A is neater and faster. Use Option B only if your neck is larger than the garment's intended opening.

---

## SECTION 10: FINISHING

### 10A: Pressing and Steaming
1. Lay each piece **right side down** on a padded blocking board.
2. **Do not iron directly** onto the lace. Use a **damp pressing cloth** between the iron and the fabric.
3. **Steam press** with a medium-hot iron (cotton setting). Hover the iron over the cloth and press — do not drag.
4. Gently open lace eyelets with a pin or toothpick while slightly damp if needed.
5. Allow to dry **completely flat** before moving.
6. Use T-pins to pin pieces to measurements listed in the schematic while damp.

### 10B: Shoulder Seams
- Already completed in Section 9A using the 3-needle machine bind-off.
- Press shoulder seams flat with steam.

### 10C: Sleeve Attachment — Creating the Puff Effect

This is the most critical finishing step for the puff sleeve.

1. **Measure the armhole opening** on the joined body panel (front + back side seam open). 
   - Width of armhole opening = body width at shoulder = **8.5(9, 9.5, 10, 10.5) inches** each side.
   - Total drop-shoulder opening = **17(18, 19, 20, 21) inches**.
2. **Mark the sleeve centre top** with a pin or contrasting yarn marker.
3. **Run a gathering thread** along the sleeve top cast-off edge: using a tapestry needle threaded with a doubled length of the main yarn, weave in and out every 3 stitches across the entire sleeve top. Do not fasten off.
4. Match the sleeve centre top pin to the shoulder seam of the body. Pin in place.
5. Match the sleeve **side edges** to the body at the armhole opening (approximately 8.5 inches / 21 cm below the shoulder seam on each side of body, front and back).
6. **Gather the sleeve top** by pulling the gathering thread until the sleeve top fits the armhole opening. Distribute gathers evenly, creating a puffed appearance at the top of the sleeve. Adjust gathering so the fullest section of the puff sits at the top 4 inches.
7. **Pin thoroughly** across the gathered area.
8. Sew the sleeve to the body using a **back stitch** (or mattress stitch for invisible seam) with matching white sewing thread or yarn. Sew through the gathered fabric at a consistent seam allowance.
9. Remove gathering thread. Press the seam gently, pressing the seam allowance towards the body (not the sleeve) to maximise puff volume.

### 10D: Side Seams and Sleeve Seams

1. With body RS together (inside out), align **side seams** from hem to armhole.
2. Using **mattress stitch** (preferred for lace — it is invisible) or backstitch, sew side seams.
   - **Leave a 1.5 inch (4 cm) opening** at the waist casing level (align with the ribbed waist casing) on ONE side seam for elastic insertion.
3. Sew **sleeve seams** from cuff to underarm using mattress stitch.
4. Press all seams flat with steam.

### 10E: Elastic Insertion at Waist Casing

1. Thread a **bodkin or blunt safety pin** through the end of the elastic.
2. Insert the bodkin into the waist casing through the open seam gap.
3. Feed elastic through the entire casing tunnel (inside the ribbed waist section).
4. Try the garment on and adjust elastic to comfortable fit.
5. Overlap elastic ends by 1 inch (2.5 cm). Sew securely with back stitch.
6. **Close the side seam opening** using mattress stitch.

### 10F: Hem Finishing

1. The hanged hem should already be joined at RC024.
2. Check the fold is even and smooth. Steam press the hem.
3. If the hem has not stayed folded, hand stitch the inner hem edge to the garment body using a **catch stitch** — do not pull tight (it must remain flexible and drapey).

### 10G: Final Blocking

1. Wet block or steam block the finished garment.
2. Place on a **sweater board** or T-pin to measurements on a foam mat.
3. Pin the hem at the hip level, the waist at the cinched measurement, the bust at the finished bust measurement.
4. Gently stretch and pin the sleeves to 3/4 length measurement.
5. Use additional T-pins to open and define lace eyelets across all surfaces.
6. Allow to dry **completely** (may take 12–24 hours for cotton).
7. Remove from board. Steam any remaining wrinkles.

### 10H: Final Finishing Checklist

- [ ] All yarn tails woven in (minimum 4 inches / 10 cm tail, woven in diagonal to prevent unravelling in lace)
- [ ] Ravel cord removed from all pieces
- [ ] Waste yarn removed from all edges
- [ ] Shoulder seams: pressed flat
- [ ] Sleeve seams: pressed flat
- [ ] Side seams: closed (including waist gap after elastic)
- [ ] Elastic: inserted and secured
- [ ] Neckband: folded and slip-stitched inside
- [ ] Hem: folded and pressed
- [ ] Lace eyelets: opened and blocked
- [ ] Garment: fully dry before wearing

---

## SECTION 11: ABBREVIATIONS

| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| **A position** | Non-working position (needles pushed back from bed) |
| **B position** | Working position (needles ready to knit) |
| **C position** | Hold position (needles extended beyond B; held stitches not knitted) |
| **CO** | Cast on |
| **COL** | Carriage at left / carriage on left side |
| **COR** | Carriage at right / carriage on right side |
| **Dec** | Decrease |
| **HP** | Hold position (needles in C position) |
| **Inc** | Increase |
| **K** | Knit |
| **KC** | Knit carriage |
| **Latch tool** | Single-hooked latch tool used for bind-off and stitch repair |
| **MB** | Main bed |
| **P** | Purl / half-pitch setting on ribber |
| **RC** | Row counter reading |
| **RC000** | Row counter reset to zero |
| **Ravel cord** | Smooth cord laid between waste yarn and main yarn to facilitate easy removal |
| **RS** | Right side (public / knit side) |
| **St(s)** | Stitch(es) |
| **T** | Tension dial setting (e.g., T5 = tension dial position 5) |
| **Transfer** | Moving a stitch from one needle to another using a transfer tool |
| **Transfer tool** | Multi-prong tool for moving stitches between needles or beds |
| **WS** | Wrong side (private / purl side) |
| **Waste yarn** | Contrast yarn knitted before main yarn; removed after finishing |
| **YF** | Yarn forward |
| **1×1 rib** | Alternating knit and purl columns (every other needle on each bed) |

---

## APPENDIX A: LACE CHART REFERENCE (Full Row Detail)

For a **6-stitch repeat**, working from right to left (COR → COL):

```
ROW 8: Plain knit pass. No transfers.
ROW 7: (Transfer row) COR. Transfer st at position [1] → position [2].
        Transfer st at position [6] → position [5].
        Push empty needles [1] and [6] to A position.
        Pass carriage COR→COL. Pull empty needles back to B position.
ROW 6: Plain knit pass. No transfers.
ROW 5: (Transfer row) COR. Transfer st at position [2] → position [3].
        Transfer st at position [5] → position [4].
        Push empty needles [2] and [5] to A position.
        Pass carriage COR→COL. Pull empty needles back to B position.
ROW 4: Plain knit pass. No transfers.
ROW 3: (Transfer row) COR. Transfer st at position [3] → position [2].
        Transfer st at position [4] → position [5].
        Push empty needles [3] and [4] to A position.
        Pass carriage COR→COL. Pull empty needles back to B position.
ROW 2: Plain knit pass. No transfers.
ROW 1: (Transfer row) COR. Transfer st at position [2] → position [1].
        Transfer st at position [5] → position [6].
        Push empty needles [2] and [5] to A position.
        Pass carriage COR→COL. Pull empty needles back to B position.

Repeat rows 1–8 for pattern.
```

> **Note**: When working this repeat across a full panel, offset each adjacent 6-stitch block by 3 rows (half a repeat) to create a diagonal diamond lattice rather than vertical columns of eyelets. This creates the allover lace effect characteristic of peasant-style garments.

---

## APPENDIX B: QUICK REFERENCE — KEY ROW CHECKPOINTS (Size M shown)

| RC | Event |
|---|---|
| RC000 | Main yarn begins after waste yarn/ravel cord |
| RC024 | Hanged hem join complete |
| RC025 | Begin lace pattern |
| RC084 | Waist reached — 132 sts |
| RC085 | Begin ribbed waist casing (ribber engaged) |
| RC120 | Waist casing complete (ribber disengaged) |
| RC121 | Begin increase back to bust width |
| RC180 | Bust width restored — 172 sts |
| RC181 | Begin plain lace body to armhole |
| RC280 | Armhole/shoulder height — begin neck shaping |
| RC261 (Front) | Begin front scoop neck shaping |
| RC281 (Back) | Begin back neck shaping |
| RC308 | All neck and shoulder shaping complete |

---

*End of Pattern — Mélodie Blanche*

*Technical editing and all stitch calculations have been verified against the gauge of 34 sts / 46 rows per 4 inches (10 cm) as measured over lace pattern after steaming. Always verify against your personal gauge swatch before beginning.*

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