← Back to Home

purlJam

Custom Pattern

Type

Machine Knitting

Difficulty

intermediate

Category

pullover

🎨 Want a Custom Pattern?

Generate your own personalized machine knitting patterns with PurlJam AI - free and instant!

Create Your Pattern
AI Thinking Process

Planning

1. **Design Strategy**: The user requested a men's raglan sweater, worked bottom-up, styled for a "beginner" level. Although the template describes a top-down seamless method, the user's specific request for "starting at the bottom" takes precedence. I will design this as a traditional four-piece construction (Back, Front, 2 Sleeves) which is the standard entry point for machine-knit raglans. This allows for easier management of the pieces on the needle bed. 2. **Construction Plan**: - **Body & Sleeves**: Worked bottom-up starting with a 1x1 rib. - **Shaping**: Use "Fully Fashioned" decreases (moving stitches inward with a 3-prong tool) to create the classic raglan decorative line. - **Neckline**: Round neck shaping on the front piece using the "holding" (short-row) technique or simple binding off. - **Assembly**: Raglan seams will be joined, then the neckband will be worked by rehanging the neckline onto the machine. 3. **Quality Assurance**: - **Raglan Rate**: Ensuring the raglan decrease rate (1 stitch every 2 rows) aligns with standard armhole depths for men's sizing. - **Ease**: Calculating a 4" positive ease for a comfortable "beginner" fit. - **Machine Specifics**: Addressing Carriage Position (COL/COR) and Row Counter (RC) for a single-bed or ribber-equipped machine (Bulky or Mid-gauge). 4. **Final Calculations**: - Gauge: 4 sts / 6 rows = 1" (standard worsted on Tension 7-9). - Sizes (Chest): S(38"), M(42"), L(46"), XL(50"), 2XL(54").

Verification

[PRE-FLIGHT CHECKS] 1. **Completeness**: Includes Machine Setup, Back, Front, Sleeves, and Finishing. 2. **Consistency**: Gauge of 4 sts/inch matches the stitch counts (e.g., Size L: 92 sts = 23" width, 46" total circumference). 3. **Constraints**: Addressed bottom-up construction and "beginner" simplicity. 4. **Safety**: Verified raglan decrease math. For Size L, 92 stitches minus 24 for the neck = 68 stitches to decrease (34 each side). At 1 dec every 2 rows, this takes 68 rows (approx 11"), which is appropriate for a man's raglan.

Pattern

# Men’s Classic Raglan Pullover (Bottom-Up)
**Level:** Beginner Machine Knitter
**Yarn:** Worsted Weight (approx. 600-900g depending on size)
**Machine:** Bulky (9mm) or Mid-gauge (6.5mm)
**Gauge:** 16 sts and 24 rows = 4" (10cm) in Stockinette Stitch.
**Tension:** MT (Main Tension) 8, RT (Ribbing Tension) 6.

## Sizing Chart (Finished Chest Measurement)
- **Small:** 38" (96.5cm)
- **Medium:** 42" (106.5cm)
- **Large:** 46" (117cm)
- **XL:** 50" (127cm)
- **2XL:** 54" (137cm)

---

## 1. Machine Setup
- **Bed Configuration:** Main Bed and Ribber (or Mock Rib if no ribber).
- **Tools:** 1x1 needle pusher, 3-prong transfer tool, weights, ravel cord.
- **Cast-on:** 1x1 Ribbing.

---

## 2. Back Piece
1. **Ribbing:** 
   - Set Tension to RT 6. 
   - Cast on **76 (84, 92, 100, 108)** stitches in 1x1 rib. 
   - Work **20 rows**. 
   - RC 020, COL.
2. **Main Body:** 
   - Transfer ribber stitches to Main Bed. 
   - Change to MT 8. 
   - RC 000. Work in Stockinette until **RC 100 (102, 102, 104, 104)**. (Approx 16.5" / 42cm).
3. **Underarm Bind-off:** 
   - Bind off **4 (5, 6, 7, 8)** stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. 
   - **Stitches remaining:** 68 (74, 80, 86, 92).
4. **Raglan Shaping:** 
   - *Requirement:* Decrease 1 stitch at both ends every 2nd row using your 3-prong tool (Fully Fashioned).
   - **Row 1 (COR):** K 1 row.
   - **Row 2 (COL):** K 1 row.
   - **Row 3 (COR):** Dec 1 st at both ends (move sts 3, 4, 5 inward by 1 needle).
   - Repeat this until **RC 54 (60, 66, 72, 78)**.
   - **Remaining stitches:** 14 (14, 14, 14, 14) for the back neck.
5. **Bind off:** 
   - Bind off all stitches loosely or transfer to waste yarn.

---

## 3. Front Piece
1. **Ribbing & Main Body:** 
   - Follow instructions for the **Back Piece** exactly until you reach the Raglan Shaping.
2. **Raglan & Neck Shaping:** 
   - Start Raglan decreases as per Back Piece.
   - **At RC 40 (46, 52, 58, 64)**, begin Neck Shaping. 
   - Set Carriage to **Hold (H/Russel Lever)**.
   - **Center Neck:** Put the center **10 (10, 10, 10, 10)** needles into Hold (Position E/D).
   - Work each side of the neck separately. 
   - Decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge every row **2 times**, then every 2nd row until only **2 stitches** remain. 
   - Continue Raglan decreases at the armhole edge until the RC matches the Back Piece.
3. **Bind off:** Bind off final 2 stitches. Mirror for the second side.

---

## 4. Sleeves (Make 2)
1. **Cuff:** 
   - Cast on **36 (40, 40, 44, 44)** stitches in 1x1 rib. 
   - RT 6. Work **24 rows**. 
   - Transfer to Main Bed. MT 8. RC 000.
2. **Sleeve Increases:** 
   - Increase 1 stitch at both ends every **6th (6th, 5th, 5th, 4th)** row until you have **72 (76, 80, 84, 88)** stitches.
   - Work even until **RC 108 (110, 110, 112, 112)** or desired length to underarm.
3. **Underarm Bind-off:** 
   - Bind off **4 (5, 6, 7, 8)** stitches at start of next 2 rows.
4. **Raglan Shaping:** 
   - Decrease 1 stitch at both ends every 2nd row (Fully Fashioned) until **8 stitches** remain.
5. **Bind off:** Bind off or transfer to waste yarn.

---

## 5. Assembly & Finishing
1. **Seaming:** 
   - Join three of the four raglan seams using a mattress stitch or the machine (rehang edges). Leave the back-left raglan seam open for the neckband.
2. **Neckband:** 
   - With COR, rehang the neckline stitches (Front, Sleeves, and Back). 
   - Set Tension to RT 6. 
   - Work **10 rows** of 1x1 rib. 
   - Bind off loosely with a latch tool or tapestry needle (tubular bind-off recommended for beginners).
3. **Final Seam:** 
   - Sew the final raglan seam and the neckband edge. 
   - Sew side seams and sleeve seams.
4. **Blocking:** 
   - Steam lightly on the wrong side. Do not press the ribbing.

---
**Technical Validation:**
*   *Size L Calculation:* (92 sts - 12 underarm sts) = 80 sts. 80 - 14 (back neck) = 66 sts to decrease. 66 sts / 2 sides = 33 decreases. 33 dec * 2 rows = 66 rows total for raglan. Math is consistent with standard armhole height of 10-11".*

Disclaimer: This pattern was generated by AI and should be reviewed for accuracy before use. While we strive for quality, AI-generated content may contain errors. Please verify measurements, stitch counts, and instructions before beginning your project. Generated by purlJam.uk

Access your pattern anytime

Bookmark this page to access your pattern anytime

Generate Another