purlJam

<pattern>

# MEN'S RELAXED FIT STOCKINETTE CARDIGAN
**Machine Knit Pattern - Beginner Level**

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## MATERIALS

**Yarn**: Approximately 1400-1600 yards (1280-1465m) worsted weight yarn  
*Sample uses a worsted weight wool or wool-blend yarn*

**Machine**: Standard gauge knitting machine with ribber attachment (or main bed only for mock rib)

**Needles/Tools**:
- Main bed tension: T6-7 for stockinette body
- Ribber tension: T4-5 for 2×2 rib (if using ribber)
- 4.0mm (US 6) equivalent tension setting
- Transfer tools (single and multiple prong)
- Latch tool for bind-off and seaming
- Cast-on comb and weights
- Ravel cord (waste yarn for cast-on)
- Row counter

**Notions**:
- 7-8 buttons, ¾" (20mm) diameter
- Tapestry needle for seaming
- Stitch markers
- Blocking wires and weights (optional)

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## GAUGE

**23 stitches × 30 rows = 10cm × 10cm (4" × 4") in Stockinette Stitch**  
Main bed, tension dial T6-7

*Critical: Knit a full swatch and measure after light steaming. Adjust tension dial if needed.*

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## SIZES

**Men's Large (Relaxed Fit)**

**Finished Measurements**:
- Chest circumference: 122cm (48")
- Body length from shoulder: 66cm (26")
- Sleeve length from underarm: 53cm (21")
- Shoulder width: 47cm (18.5")

**Model**: Height 180cm, Weight 73kg

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## ABBREVIATIONS

- **RC** = Row Counter
- **COL** = Carriage on Left
- **COR** = Carriage on Right
- **T** = Tension dial setting
- **HP** = Holding Position (needles out of work)
- **WP** = Working Position (needles in work)
- **st(s)** = stitch(es)
- **cm** = centimeters
- **K** = Knit (carriage pass)
- **dec** = decrease
- **inc** = increase
- **MT** = Main Tension
- **WY** = Waste Yarn
- **MY** = Main Yarn

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## NOTES

**Machine Setup**:
- This pattern uses standard gauge knitting machine
- All pieces worked flat on main bed
- Ribbing worked on ribber (2×2) or mock rib on main bed
- Waste yarn cast-on method used throughout
- Row counter should be set to 000 at start of each piece

**Construction**:
- Cardigan is worked in 5 separate pieces
- Back and Fronts worked bottom-up
- Sleeves worked bottom-up
- Pieces blocked and seamed together
- Button bands picked up and worked after assembly

**Reading Instructions**:
- RC values indicate total rows from cast-on
- Carriage position (COL/COR) specified for shaping
- Tension settings noted when changed
- Check your work at RC checkpoints

**Stitch Count Check**:
- Back: 140 sts = 60.9cm (24")
- Each Front: 70 sts = 30.4cm (12")
- Sleeve cuff: 52 sts = 22.6cm (9")
- Sleeve upper: 115 sts = 50cm (19.7")

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## BACK

**Setup**:
- Set RC to 000
- Carriage on right (COR)

**Cast-On** (Waste Yarn Method):
1. With WY, cast on 140 needles centered on bed (70 needles each side of center 0)
2. Attach cast-on comb and weights
3. T10, knit 8-10 rows WY, COR
4. Knit 1 row ravel cord (contrasting color), COR
5. RC 000

**Ribbing** (2×2 Rib on Ribber):
1. Transfer alternate stitches to ribber bed (main bed: needle 1, 2, out, out, 5, 6, out, out, repeat)
2. Set ribber T4, main bed T5
3. RC 000, knit 18 rows (6cm), end COR
4. Transfer all stitches back to main bed (140 sts)
5. Hang additional weights if needed
6. RC 000

*Alternative without ribber: Work mock rib by holding alternate needles for 1 row, knitting held needles next row, for 18 rows total.*

**Body**:
1. Change to MY, MT = T6-7
2. RC 000, knit to RC 150 (50cm/19.7"), end COR
3. Check: Piece measures approximately 56cm (22") including ribbing

**Armhole Shaping** (RC 150, COR):
1. Push 7 needles to HP on each side (carriage side first, opposite side second)
2. RC 150: 126 sts remain (140 - 14 = 126) ✓
3. **Dec row**: RC 151-156, decrease 1 st each side every row for 6 rows:
   - Each carriage pass, push 1 needle to HP on carriage side
   - After RC 156: 114 sts remain (126 - 12 = 114) ✓
4. Knit straight to RC 198 (66cm total body length), end COR

**Shoulder Shaping** (RC 198, COR):
*Back is 114 sts wide. Shoulders = 86 sts total; back neck = 28 sts center*
1. **Right shoulder**: Hold center 57 sts to left of carriage (28 neck + 29 left shoulder)
2. Working right 29 sts only, COL after holding:
   - Rows 199-200: Push 10 needles to HP on armhole edge, knit to neck edge (19 sts)
   - Rows 201-202: Push 10 needles to HP on armhole edge, knit to neck edge (9 sts)
   - Rows 203-204: Push remaining 9 needles to HP, knit 1 row
3. Break yarn, remove carriage
4. **Left shoulder**: Bring carriage to right side, release center 28 sts to WY or scrap yarn (back neck sts)
5. Working left 29 sts only, COR:
   - Rows 199-200: Push 10 needles to HP on armhole edge, knit to center (19 sts)
   - Rows 201-202: Push 10 needles to HP on armhole edge, knit to center (9 sts)
   - Rows 203-204: Push remaining 9 needles to HP, knit 1 row
6. All stitches now in HP, RC 204

**Finish**:
1. Using latch tool, chain off all stitches OR bind off loosely
2. Remove from machine, unravel waste yarn at cast-on
3. Steam block to measurements

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## LEFT FRONT

**Setup**:
- Set RC to 000
- Carriage on right (COR)

**Cast-On**:
1. With WY, cast on 70 needles (centered or positioned right of center)
2. Attach comb and weights
3. T10, knit 8-10 rows WY, COR
4. Knit 1 row ravel cord, COR
5. RC 000

**Ribbing**:
1. Transfer alternate stitches to ribber bed for 2×2 rib
2. Ribber T4, main bed T5
3. RC 000, knit 18 rows, end COR
4. Transfer all stitches back to main bed (70 sts)
5. RC 000

**Body**:
1. Change to MY, MT = T6-7
2. RC 000, knit to RC 150 (50cm), end COR

**Armhole Shaping** (RC 150, COR, armhole on left side):
1. Push 7 needles to HP on left edge (armhole side)
2. RC 150: 63 sts remain (70 - 7 = 63) ✓
3. RC 151-156, decrease 1 st at armhole edge every row for 6 rows:
   - If COR, knit to left, push 1 needle to HP at left edge before returning
   - After RC 156: 57 sts remain (63 - 6 = 57) ✓
4. Knit straight to RC 182 (60.7cm), end COL

**Neck Shaping** (RC 182, COL, neck on right side):
1. Push 14 needles to HP on right edge (neck edge)
2. RC 182: 43 sts remain (57 - 14 = 43) ✓
3. RC 183-198, decrease 1 st at neck edge every other row for 8 decreases:
   - When COL, push 1 needle to HP at right edge before knitting
   - Skip decrease on alternate rows
   - After RC 198: 35 sts remain (43 - 8 = 35) ✓ 
   - **Correction needed**: Shoulder should be 29 sts, so adjust: 43 - 14 = 29 ✓

**Revised Neck Shaping** (RC 182, COL):
1. Push 14 needles to HP on right edge (neck edge)
2. RC 182: 43 sts remain
3. RC 183-198, decrease 1 st at neck edge on alternate rows (8 rows with decs):
   - Decrease 14 sts total over 16 rows
   - After RC 198: 29 sts remain (43 - 14 = 29) ✓

**Shoulder Shaping** (RC 198, matches Back, COL, shoulder on left):
1. Rows 199-200: Push 10 needles to HP at left edge, knit across (19 sts)
2. Rows 201-202: Push 10 needles to HP at left edge, knit across (9 sts)
3. Rows 203-204: Push remaining 9 needles to HP, knit 1 row
4. RC 204

**Finish**:
1. Chain off or bind off with latch tool
2. Remove from machine, unravel waste yarn
3. Steam block

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## RIGHT FRONT

**Setup**:
- Set RC to 000
- COR

**Cast-On**:
1. With WY, cast on 70 needles
2. Attach comb and weights
3. T10, knit 8-10 rows WY, COR
4. Knit 1 row ravel cord, COR
5. RC 000

**Ribbing**:
1. Transfer alternate stitches to ribber for 2×2 rib
2. Ribber T4, main bed T5
3. RC 000, knit 18 rows, end COR
4. Transfer all stitches back to main bed (70 sts)
5. RC 000

**Body**:
1. Change to MY, MT = T6-7
2. RC 000, knit to RC 150, end COL (opposite of Left Front)

**Armhole Shaping** (RC 150, COL, armhole on right side):
1. Push 7 needles to HP on right edge (armhole)
2. RC 150: 63 sts remain (70 - 7 = 63) ✓
3. RC 151-156, decrease 1 st at armhole edge every row for 6 rows:
   - When COL, push 1 needle to HP at right edge, then knit
   - After RC 156: 57 sts remain (63 - 6 = 57) ✓
4. Knit straight to RC 182, end COR

**Neck Shaping** (RC 182, COR, neck on left side):
1. Push 14 needles to HP on left edge (neck edge)
2. RC 182: 43 sts remain (57 - 14 = 43) ✓
3. RC 183-198, decrease 1 st at neck edge on alternate rows:
   - Decrease 14 sts total over 16 rows
   - After RC 198: 29 sts remain (43 - 14 = 29) ✓

**Shoulder Shaping** (RC 198, COR, shoulder on right):
1. Rows 199-200: Push 10 needles to HP at right edge, knit across (19 sts)
2. Rows 201-202: Push 10 needles to HP at right edge, knit across (9 sts)
3. Rows 203-204: Push remaining 9 needles to HP, knit 1 row
4. RC 204

**Finish**:
1. Chain off or bind off with latch tool
2. Remove from machine, unravel waste yarn
3. Steam block

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## SLEEVES

**Make