purlJam

---

# **Mr. Hazelwick's Finest — A Victorian Dressed Squirrel**
### A Hand-Knitted 30cm (12in) Squirrel Toy in Full Victorian Dress

---

## About This Pattern

Meet Mr. Hazelwick — a distinguished 30cm (12in) hand-knitted squirrel dressed in his Victorian finest: a sweeping long coat, generously cut baggy trousers, and a tall top hat. Every piece, from his bushy tail to his silk-worthy hat brim, is knitted flat on two needles and seamed. His clothes are knitted to fit over his body with ease, giving that characterful, slightly rumpled Victorian silhouette.

This is an **advanced** pattern requiring confident shaping, seaming, and the ability to work multiple small pieces. The finished result is a beautiful heirloom-quality toy or display piece.

> ⚠️ **Safety Note:** This toy contains small parts (safety eyes, buttons). It is intended as a decorative piece or gift for adults and children aged 3 and over. For babies or young toddlers, embroider features instead.

---

## Materials

### Yarn
| Yarn | Colour | Approximate Yardage |
|---|---|---|
| Cotton-bamboo blend, worsted weight (approx. 200m/100g) | Warm brown / hazel (MC) | 150m |
| Same yarn | Cream / ivory (CC1 — muzzle, ear linings, belly) | 30m |
| Same yarn | Dark charcoal / near-black (CC2 — coat & hat) | 120m |
| Same yarn | Warm taupe / brown (CC3 — trousers) | 60m |
| Same yarn | Deep gold or mustard (CC4 — coat lining, optional contrast) | 20m |

> **Yarn Note:** Cotton-bamboo blend has a beautiful drape and slight sheen, ideal for the Victorian clothing. It has less stretch than wool, so take particular care to match your tension swatch. Recommended brands: Paintbox Simply DK (used at worsted tension on 4mm), Rico Creative Cotton Aran, or any cotton-bamboo worsted/aran.

### Needles
- 4mm (UK size 8) straight needles — main needles throughout
- 3.5mm (UK size 9/10) straight needles — for hat brim and tight detail work

### Notions
- Stitch markers
- Tapestry / yarn needle for seaming
- Polyester toy stuffing (approx. 80–100g)
- 2 × 12mm brown safety eyes (or black embroidery thread for embroidered eyes)
- 4 × tiny black buttons (approx. 5mm) for coat — or embroider French knots
- 1 × small gold or brass button (8mm) for coat collar — optional
- Stitch holders or spare yarn
- Row counter
- Pins for blocking/assembly

---

## Tension (Gauge)

**20 stitches × 28 rows = 10cm × 10cm (4in × 4in)**
Measured in stocking stitch (knit RS rows, purl WS rows) on 4mm needles, after washing and blocking.

> **This tension is critical.** A tighter tension will make your squirrel smaller and your stitches less visible through the fabric (preferable for a neat finish with cotton). A looser tension will allow stuffing to show. Knit a 15cm swatch and wash it before measuring. Adjust needle size if needed — but always use the same needle size throughout all pieces for consistency.

---

## Finished Measurements

| Part | Measurement |
|---|---|
| Total height (nose to toe, standing) | 30cm (12in) |
| Body length (base to neck) | 13cm (5in) |
| Head circumference | approx. 22cm (8.5in) stuffed |
| Tail length | 15cm (6in) |
| Arm length | 7cm (2.75in) |
| Leg length | 8cm (3in) |
| Coat length (back) | 14cm (5.5in) |
| Trouser length (waist to ankle) | 10cm (4in) |
| Top hat height | 7cm (2.75in) |

---

## Abbreviations

| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| k | knit |
| p | purl |
| st(s) | stitch(es) |
| RS | right side |
| WS | wrong side |
| CO | cast on |
| BO | bind (cast) off |
| k2tog | knit 2 together (right-leaning decrease) |
| ssk | slip 1 kwise, slip 1 kwise, knit both together through back loops (left-leaning decrease) |
| m1L | make 1 left: lift bar between sts from front to back, knit through back loop |
| m1R | make 1 right: lift bar between sts from back to front, knit through front loop |
| inc1 | knit into front and back of stitch (kfb) |
| St st | stocking stitch (knit RS, purl WS) |
| rev St st | reverse stocking stitch (purl RS, knit WS) |
| g st | garter stitch (knit every row) |
| pm | place marker |
| sl1 | slip 1 stitch purlwise |
| wyif | with yarn in front |
| rep | repeat |
| rem | remaining |
| approx. | approximately |
| MC | main colour |
| CC1, CC2, CC3, CC4 | contrast colours as specified above |

---

## Pattern Notes

1. **Two needles throughout:** Every piece is worked flat (back and forth) on straight needles. No circular needles are used at any point.
2. **Seaming:** Use mattress stitch for all vertical seams and a horizontal-to-horizontal grafting stitch or mattress stitch for shoulder/top seams. The cotton-bamboo yarn seams beautifully.
3. **Stuffing:** Stuff pieces firmly but not so tightly that the fabric distorts. Cotton-bamboo has little stretch, so overstuffing will pull seams apart.
4. **Clothes:** All clothes are knitted generously to slide over the squirrel. They are removable. The trousers have a simple drawstring waist. The coat is open-fronted and closes with buttons (or stitch closed if preferred).
5. **Colour changes:** When changing colours for CC1 belly/muzzle panels, twist yarns together on the WS to prevent holes. Alternatively, work intarsia with separate yarn bobbins.
6. **Order of construction:** Knit the squirrel body pieces first (body, head, ears, arms, legs, tail), fully assemble and stuff the squirrel, then knit and fit the clothes over the completed toy.
7. **Shaping note:** All shaping is worked 1 stitch in from each edge unless stated otherwise (i.e., k1, ssk / k2tog, k1) to keep a neat selvedge for seaming.

---

## PART ONE: THE SQUIRREL

---

### PIECE 1: BODY (make 2 pieces — front and back)

The body is knitted from the base upwards. The front piece has a CC1 (cream) belly panel worked in intarsia.

**Using MC and 4mm needles, CO 20 sts.**

**Rows 1–4:** Work in g st (knit every row) — this forms the base edge.

**Row 5 (RS):** Knit across. *(20 sts)*
**Row 6 (WS):** Purl across.

**Shape sides — begin increases:**
**Row 7 (RS):** K1, m1L, knit to last st, m1R, k1. *(22 sts)*
**Row 8 (WS):** Purl.
**Row 9 (RS):** K1, m1L, knit to last st, m1R, k1. *(24 sts)*
**Row 10 (WS):** Purl.

**Work straight in St st for 14 rows** (rows 11–24), ending with a WS row. *(24 sts)*

> ✅ **Stitch check:** You should have 24 sts on the needle at this point.

**Shape shoulders — begin decreases:**
**Row 25 (RS):** K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. *(22 sts)*
**Row 26 (WS):** Purl.
**Row 27 (RS):** K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. *(20 sts)*
**Row 28 (WS):** Purl.
**Row 29 (RS):** K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. *(18 sts)*
**Row 30 (WS):** Purl.
**Row 31 (RS):** K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. *(16 sts)*
**Row 32 (WS):** Purl.

**BO all 16 sts.**

> **Front piece only — Belly panel:** For the front piece, work the belly panel in CC1 across the centre 8 sts from rows 7–24. Set up intarsia: with MC knit 8 sts, join CC1 knit 8 sts, MC knit 8 sts. On WS rows, purl each section in its own colour. This creates a cream belly oval on the front. Twist yarns on WS at each colour junction.

> ✅ **Body measurement check:** 24 sts × 28 rows at tension = 12cm wide × 10cm tall (body section only, 6 rows garter + 26 rows St st = total approx. 13cm body length) ✅

---

### PIECE 2: HEAD (make 2 pieces — front and back)

The head is a rounded oval shape worked from the base upwards.

**Using MC and 4mm needles, CO 16 sts.**

**Row 1 (RS):** Knit.
**Row 2 (WS):** Purl.

**Shape — increase rows:**
**Row 3 (RS):** K1, m1L, k to last st, m1R, k1. *(18 sts)*
**Row 4 (WS):** Purl.
**Row 5 (RS):** K1, m1L, k to last st, m1R, k1. *(20 sts)*
**Row 6 (WS):** Purl.
**Row 7 (RS):** K1, m1L, k to last st, m1R, k1. *(22 sts)*
**Row 8 (WS):** Purl.

**Work straight in St st for 8 rows** (rows 9–16). *(22 sts)*

**Shape top — decrease rows:**
**Row 17 (RS):** K1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. *(20 sts)*
**Row 18 (WS):** Purl.
**Row 19 (RS):** K1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. *(18 sts)*
**Row 20 (WS):** Purl.
**Row 21 (RS):** K1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. *(16 sts)*
**Row 22 (WS):** Purl.
**Row 23 (RS):** K1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. *(14 sts)*
**Row 24 (WS):** Purl.
**Row 25 (RS):** K1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. *(12 sts)*
**Row 26 (WS):** Purl.

**BO all 12 sts.**

> **Front head piece — Muzzle:** For the front head only, work a small muzzle panel in CC1 across the centre 6 sts from rows 9–14. This creates a pale muzzle area on the face. Work intarsia as for belly panel.

> ✅ **Head measurement check:** 22 sts at widest = 11cm; 26 rows = approx. 9.3cm tall, giving a finished stuffed circumference of approx. 22cm ✅

---

### PIECE 3: EARS (make 4 pieces — 2 outer ear in MC, 2 inner ear in CC1)

**Using MC (or CC1 for inner ear) and 4mm needles, CO 8 sts.**

**Row 1 (RS):** Knit.
**Row 2 (WS):** Purl.
**Row 3 (RS):** K1, m1L, k to last st, m1R, k1. *(10 sts)*
**Row 4 (WS):** Purl.
**Row 5 (RS):** Knit.
**Row 6 (WS):** Purl.
**Row 7 (RS):** K1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. *(8 sts)*
**Row 8 (WS):** Purl.
**Row 9 (RS):** K1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. *(6 sts)*
**Row 10 (WS):** Purl.
**Row 11 (RS):** K1, ssk, k2tog, k1. *(4 sts)*
**Row 12 (WS):** Purl.
**Row 13 (RS):** Ssk, k2tog. *(2 sts)*
**Row 14 (WS):** P2tog. *(1 st)*

Pull yarn through remaining st and fasten off.

**Assembly:** Place one MC ear piece and one CC1 inner ear piece with WS together, and sew around the outer edge using mattress stitch, leaving the base open. No stuffing required — the ear is sewn flat.

---

### PIECE 4: ARMS (make 2)

Worked from the paw end upwards.

**Using MC and 4mm needles, CO 10 sts.**

**Rows 1–4:** G st (knit every row) — forms the paw.

**Row 5 (RS):** Knit.
**Row 6 (WS):** Purl.
**Row 7 (RS):** K1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. *(8 sts)*
**Row 8 (WS):** Purl.

**Work straight in St st for 14 rows** (rows 9–22). *(8 sts)*

**Shape top of arm:**
**Row 23 (RS):** K1, ssk, k2, k2tog, k1. *(6 sts)*
**Row 24 (WS):** Purl.
**Row 25 (RS):** K1, ssk, k2tog, k1. *(4 sts)*
**Row 26 (WS):** Purl.

**BO all 4 sts.** 

Make a second identical arm. Fold each arm in half lengthways (WS together), seam the long edge and the paw top, leaving the top open for stuffing. Stuff lightly. The 4-stitch cast-off edge attaches to the body shoulder.

> ✅ **Arm length check:** Rows 1–26 at 28 rows = 10cm = approx. 9.3cm; with g st border at paw, total arm length ≈ 9cm, giving 7cm functional arm + 2cm paw ✅

---

### PIECE 5: LEGS (make 2)

Worked from the foot upwards.

**Using MC and 4mm needles, CO 14 sts.**

**Rows 1–6:** G st — forms the foot base.

**Shape foot:**
**Row 7 (RS):** K1, ssk, k8, k2tog, k1. *(12 sts)*
**Row 8 (WS):** Purl.
**Row 9 (RS):** K1, ssk, k6, k2tog, k1. *(10 sts)*
**Row 10 (WS):** Purl.

**Work straight in St st for 18 rows** (rows 11–28). *(10 sts)*

**Shape top of leg:**
**Row 29 (RS):** K1, ssk, k4, k2tog, k1. *(8 sts)*
**Row 30 (WS):** Purl.
**Row 31 (RS):** K1, ssk, k2, k2tog, k1. *(6 sts)*
**Row 32 (WS):** Purl.

**BO all 6 sts.**

Make a second identical leg. Fold each leg in half lengthways (WS together), seam the long side and foot, leaving the top open. Stuff firmly, particularly in the foot. The 6-stitch cast-off attaches to the base of the body.

> ✅ **Leg length check:** 32 rows at 28r/10cm = 11.4cm total; foot = 6 rows = 2.1cm; leg shaft = 7.5cm + top shaping 1.4cm = approx. 8cm leg shaft ✅

---

### PIECE 6: TAIL

The tail is the showpiece — a magnificent bushy squirrel tail knitted in two pieces and stuffed, then folded into a curve.

**Using MC and 4mm needles, CO 6 sts.**

**Row 1 (RS):** Knit.
**Row 2 (WS):** Purl.

**Increase section (rows 3–20):**
**Row 3 (RS):** K1, m1L, k to last st, m1R, k1. *(8 sts)*
**Row 4 (WS):** Purl.
**Row 5 (RS):** K1, m1L, k to last st, m1R, k1. *(10 sts)*
**Row 6 (WS):** Purl.
**Row 7 (RS):** K1, m1L, k to last st, m1R, k1. *(12 sts)*
**Row 8 (WS):** Purl.
**Row 9 (RS):** K1, m1L, k to last st, m1R, k1. *(14 sts)*
**Row 10 (WS):** Purl.
**Row 11 (RS):** K1, m1L, k to last st, m1R, k1. *(16 sts)*
**Row 12 (WS):** Purl.
**Row 13 (RS):** K1, m1L, k to last st, m1R, k1. *(18 sts)*
**Row 14 (WS):** Purl.
**Row 15 (RS):** K1, m1L, k to last st, m1R, k1. *(20 sts)*
**Row 16 (WS):** Purl.
**Row 17 (RS):** K1, m1L, k to last st, m1R, k1. *(22 sts)*
**Row 18 (WS):** Purl.

**Work straight in St st for 10 rows** (rows 19–28). *(22 sts)*

**Decrease section (rows 29–42):**
**Row 29 (RS):** K1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. *(20 sts)*
**Row 30 (WS):** Purl.
**Row 31 (RS):** K1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. *(18 sts)*
**Row 32 (WS):** Purl.
**Row 33 (RS):** K1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. *(16 sts)*
**Row 34 (WS):** Purl.
**Row 35 (RS):** K1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. *(14 sts)*
**Row 36 (WS):** Purl.
**Row 37 (RS):** K1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. *(12 sts)*
**Row 38 (WS):** Purl.
**Row 39 (RS):** K1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. *(10 sts)*
**Row 40 (WS):** Purl.
**Row 41 (RS):** K1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. *(8 sts)*
**Row 42 (WS):** Purl.

**BO all 8 sts.**

Make **2 identical tail pieces**. Place them RS together, sew around the outer edges leaving the narrow base (CO edge) open. Turn RS out through the base opening. Stuff generously. 

For the fluffy tail texture: Using MC, cut lengths of yarn approximately 8cm long. Using a crochet hook or tapestry needle, pull each length halfway through a stitch on the tail surface (looping method), creating a fringe. Work every other stitch across the tail surface. Trim to create a rounded, bushy silhouette. Alternatively, brush the tail surface gently with a stiff bristle brush after construction to raise the fibres — test on your swatch first as cotton-bamboo responds differently to wool.

> ✅ **Tail measurement check:** Total 42 rows = 15cm length at tension; max width 22 sts = 11cm at widest — gives a generous, elegant tail ✅

---

## PART TWO: ASSEMBLING THE SQUIRREL

### Assembly Order

**Step 1 — Attach safety eyes:**
Before closing the head, attach safety eyes to the front head piece. Position eyes approx. 10 rows up from the CO edge, 4 sts either side of the centre muzzle panel. Push the posts through the fabric, attach washers on the WS, and press firmly to secure. (If making for young children, embroider eyes instead using satin stitch and black yarn.)

**Step 2 — Seam the head:**
Place front and back head pieces WS together (right sides facing out). Using mattress stitch and MC, seam around the outer edge, leaving the bottom 8 sts open for the neck. Stuff the head firmly and evenly before closing.

**Step 3 — Embroider the face:**
Using CC1 and a tapestry needle, embroider a small triangular nose (3–4 satin stitches) at the centre top of the muzzle panel. Using black yarn or CC2, work a small Y-shaped mouth below the nose. Add a tiny white highlight stitch to each eye.

**Step 4 — Attach ears:**
Position one ear either side of the head top, approx. 3 sts from the head centre, pointing upwards and very slightly forward. Sew firmly to the head using mattress stitch around the ear base.

**Step 5 — Seam the body:**
Place front and back body pieces WS together. Seam down both side edges using mattress stitch, leaving the top (neck edge — 16 sts) and the bottom (CO edge — 20 sts) open. Stuff the body firmly, shaping as you go to achieve a plump, seated-animal torso.

**Step 6 — Attach head to body:**
The neck opening of the head (8 sts open) sits over the top of the body (16 sts wide). Pin in place, easing the head neck edge evenly around the body shoulder edge. Sew securely all the way around using small, firm stitches. The head should face slightly upward (give Mr. Hazelwick a dignified, alert expression).

**Step 7 — Close body base and attach legs:**
Position the two legs at the base of the body, pointing downward and very slightly forward, spaced about 4 sts apart at the centre. Sew the body base closed around the leg tops simultaneously, enclosing the leg attachment seam within the body base seam for extra strength. Add a little more stuffing to the body base before fully closing.

**Step 8 — Attach arms:**
Position one arm on each side of the body, just below the head/neck join, approx. 2 sts down from the shoulder seam. The arms should angle slightly forward and downward. Sew the 4-st arm top edge securely to the body side, then catch the arm to the body seam for the top 3 rows to give stability.

**Step 9 — Attach tail:**
Position the tail at the centre back of the body, near the base, with the narrow CO tip pointing upward. The tail should curve up and then arch forward over the squirrel's back — this is the classic squirrel silhouette. Sew the tail base securely to the body back. Tack the upper curve of the tail lightly to the upper body back if needed to hold the arch shape.

---

## PART THREE: THE CLOTHES

> **Clothes knitting note:** All clothes are sized to be generously baggy over the squirrel's body. They are knitted in CC2 (charcoal/black for coat and hat) and CC3 (taupe/brown for trousers). All clothes are knitted flat on 4mm needles unless stated.

---

### GARMENT 1: VICTORIAN LONG COAT

The coat has a back piece, two front pieces (left and right), two sleeves, and a collar. It is open at the front with button fastenings.

#### Coat Back

**Using CC2 and 4mm needles, CO 28 sts.**

**Rows 1–3:** K1, *k1, p1; rep from * to last st, k1. (Rib border)

**Row 4 (RS):** Knit. 
**Row 5 (WS):** Purl.

**Work straight in St st for 26 rows** (rows 4–29), ending WS. *(28 sts)*

> This gives a coat back length of approx. 10.7cm from rib; with rib = 11.7cm to armhole.

**Shape armhole — Row 30 (RS):** BO 3 sts at beg of row, knit to end. *(25 sts)*
**Row 31 (WS):** BO 3 sts at beg of row, purl to end. *(22 sts)*

**Row 32 (RS):** K1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. *(20 sts)*
**Row 33 (WS):** Purl.
**Row 34 (RS):** K1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. *(18 sts)*
**Row 35 (WS):** Purl.

**Work straight in St st for 8 rows** (rows 36–43). *(18 sts)*

**Shape back neck:**
**Row 44 (RS):** K6, BO centre 6 sts, k to end. *(6 sts each shoulder — work each side separately)*

**Left shoulder:** 
**Row 45 (WS):** Purl.
**Row 46 (RS):** K1, ssk, k to end. *(5 sts)*
**BO 5 sts.**

**Right shoulder (rejoin yarn at neck edge, WS facing):**
**Row 45 (WS):** Purl.
**Row 46 (RS):** K to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. *(5 sts)*
**BO 5 sts.**

> ✅ **Coat back maths check:** CO 28 sts = 14cm wide (baggy over 12cm body) ✅. Total length: rib (3 rows ≈ 1cm) + body (26 rows ≈ 9.3cm) + armhole shaping (6 rows ≈ 2.1cm) + upper body (8 rows ≈ 2.9cm) + shoulder (2 rows) = approx. 15cm to shoulder (coat back length at sq body) ✅

---

#### Coat Right Front

**Using CC2 and 4mm needles, CO 16 sts.**

**Rows 1–3:** K1, *k1, p1; rep from * to last st, k1. (Rib border)

**Row 4 (RS):** Knit.
**Row 5 (WS):** Purl.

**Work straight in St st for 26 rows** (rows 4–29). *(16 sts)*

> The front edges (the button band side, which will be centre front) are maintained as a 2-st garter border throughout: on RS rows, k to last 2 sts, k2. On WS rows, k2, p to end.

**Revise the above:** To include button band:
**All RS rows:** Knit to last 2 sts, k2.
**All WS rows:** K2, purl to end.

**Armhole shaping — Row 30 (RS):** BO 3 sts at beg of row (armhole edge), knit to last 2 sts, k2. *(13 sts)*
**Row 31 (WS):** K2, purl to end.
**Row 32 (RS):** K1, ssk, k to last 2 sts, k2. *(12 sts)*
**Row 33 (WS):** K2, purl to end.
**Row 34 (RS):** K1, ssk, k to last 2 sts, k2. *(11 sts)*
**Row 35 (WS):** K2, purl to end.

**Work straight for 4 rows.** *(11 sts)*

**Shape lapel/front neck — Row 40 (RS):** K to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2. *(10 sts)*
**Row 41 (WS):** K2, purl to end.
**Row 42 (RS):** K to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2. *(9 sts)*
**Row 43 (WS):** K2, purl to end.
**Row 44 (RS):** K to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2. *(8 sts)*
**Row 45 (WS):** K2, purl to end.

**BO 5 sts at shoulder (armhole) edge.** *(5 sts buttonband/lapel remain — BO or leave as collar extension)*

**Buttonholes:** On row 10 (RS): K to last 4 sts, BO 1 st, k1, k2. Next row: K2, p to gap, CO 1 st, p to end. Repeat buttonhole on rows 18 and 26 (every 8 rows = 3 buttons on coat front).

> ✅ **3 buttonholes at rows 10, 18, 26 confirmed — spacing approx. 2.8cm apart ✅**

---

#### Coat Left Front

Work as Coat Right Front, REVERSING all shaping:
- Garter button band on opposite edge: RS rows k2, knit to end; WS rows purl to last 2 sts, k2.
- Armhole BO at end of RS row.
- Neck decreases at beginning of RS row: k2, ssk.
- Buttonholes at rows 10, 18, 26: k2, BO 1, knit to end / WS: purl to gap, CO 1, p to last 2 sts, k2.

---

#### Coat Sleeves (make 2)

The sleeves are long and slightly tapering, with a small cuff.

**Using CC2 and 4mm needles, CO 14 sts.**

**Rows 1–4:** K1, *k1, p1; rep from * to last st, k1. (Cuff rib)

**Row 5 (RS):** Knit. *(14 sts)*
**Row 6 (WS):** Purl.
**Row 7 (RS):** K1, m1L, k to last st, m1R, k1. *(16 sts)*
**Row 8 (WS):** Purl.

**Work straight for 4 rows.** *(16 sts)*

**Row 13 (RS):** K1, m1L, k to last st, m1R, k1. *(18 sts)*
**Row 14 (WS):** Purl.

**Work straight for 10 rows** (rows 15–24). *(18 sts)*

**Shape sleeve cap:**
**Row 25 (RS):** BO 3 sts, knit to end. *(15 sts)*
**Row 26 (WS):** BO 3 sts, purl to end. *(12 sts)*

**Row 27 (RS):** K1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. *(10 sts)*
**Row 28 (WS):** Purl.
**Row 29 (RS):** K1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. *(8 sts)*
**Row 30 (WS):** Purl.
**Row 31 (RS):** K1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. *(6 sts)*
**Row 32 (WS):** Purl.

**BO all 6 sts.**

> ✅ **Sleeve check:** Total rows 32 at 28r/10cm = 11.4cm sleeve length. Cuff rib 4 rows ≈ 1.4cm; shaft 20 rows ≈ 7.1cm; cap 8 rows ≈ 2.9cm. Sleeve length ≈ 8.5cm (from cuff to underarm). Sleeve width 18 sts = 9cm (baggy over 7cm arm) ✅

---

#### Coat Collar

**Using CC2 and 4mm needles, CO 32 sts.**

**Rows 1–2:** Knit (garter stitch).

**Row 3 (RS):** K2, *k1, p1; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.
**Row 4 (WS):** K2, *p1, k1; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.

**Repeat rows 3–4 twice more** (6 rows of rib with garter selvedge).

**Row 7:** Knit.
**Row 8:** Knit.

**BO loosely.** 

The collar is sewn around the neck edge of the assembled coat with the rib section standing up as a Victorian stand collar. The CO edge attaches to the neck seam; the cast-off edge folds outward.

**Optional lapel facing (CC4/gold):** Using CC4 and 4mm needles, CO 10 sts. Work 20 rows in St st. BO. This small rectangle is sewn to the inside of each coat front lapel to create a contrasting silk lining effect visible when the lapels fold back.

---

#### Coat — Coat Tails (the Victorian long coat skirt at the back)

The back of a Victorian coat has a longer coat tail section. We extend the coat back with two "tail" panels.

**Make 2 tail panels using CC2 and 4mm needles.**

**CO 10 sts.**

**Rows 1–2:** Knit.

**Work in St st for 24 rows** (rows 3–26). 

**Row 27 (RS):** K1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. *(8 sts)*
**Row 28 (WS):** Purl.
**Row 29 (RS):** K1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. *(6 sts)*
**Row 30 (WS):** Purl.

**BO 6 sts.**

Each panel = approx. 10cm long. Sew the top (CO) edge of each tail panel to the lower back of the coat, one on the left half and one on the right half of the back lower edge, creating the split coat tail effect.

> ✅ **Coat total back length check:** coat back (15cm) + coat tails (10cm) = 25cm from shoulder to hem at tails; the front of the coat ends at approx. 15cm. A classic Victorian frock coat silhouette ✅

---

#### Assembling the Coat

1. Seam left front to back at left shoulder using mattress stitch.
2. Seam right front to back at right shoulder.
3. Set in sleeves: pin sleeve cap into armhole, distributing ease evenly; sew using mattress stitch.
4. Seam sleeve underarm and coat side seams in one continuous seam, from cuff to lower coat edge.
5. Sew coat tail panels to lower back edge.
6. Sew collar around neck edge.
7. Attach buttons to right front at buttonhole positions.
8. Press gently under a damp cloth if needed (avoid steam on cotton-bamboo as it can stiffen; a light misting is fine).

---

### GARMENT 2: BAGGY TROUSERS

The trousers are knitted in two separate leg pieces which are then sewn together. They are deliberately baggy — wider than the legs — and gathered at the waist with a drawstring.

#### Trouser Leg (make 2)

**Using CC3 and 4mm needles, CO 22 sts.**

**Rows 1–4:** K1, *k1, p1; rep from * to last st, k1. (Waistband rib — will be gathered with drawstring)*

**Row 5 (RS — turning row for waistband casing):** Purl (creates fold line).
**Row 6 (WS):** Purl.
**Rows 7–10:** St st (4 rows) — inside of waistband casing.

> This creates a double-layer waistband with a slot for the drawstring.

**Row 11 (RS):** Knit. *(Resume treating this as RS)*
**Row 12 (WS):** Purl.

**Work in St st with side shaping as follows:**

**Row 13 (RS):** K1, m1L, k to last st, m1R, k1. *(24 sts)*
**Row 14 (WS):** Purl.

**Work straight for 6 rows** (rows 15–20). *(24 sts)*

**Row 21 (RS):** K1, m1L, k to last st, m1R, k1. *(26 sts)*
**Row 22 (WS):** Purl.

**Work straight for 12 rows** (rows 23–34). *(26 sts)*

**Begin ankle taper:**
**Row 35 (RS):** K1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. *(24 sts)*
**Row 36 (WS):** Purl.
**Row 37 (RS):** K1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. *(22 sts)*
**Row 38 (WS):** Purl.
**Row 39 (RS):** K1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. *(20 sts)*
**Row 40 (WS):** Purl.

**Ankle cuff — Rows 41–44:** K1, *k1, p1; rep from * to last st, k1.

**BO loosely in rib.**

> ✅ **Trouser leg length check:** Rows 1–44 = 15.7cm total. Waistband: 10 rows ≈ 3.6cm. Leg shaft rows 11–40 = 30 rows ≈ 10.7cm. Ankle cuff 4 rows ≈ 1.4cm. Total trouser leg ≈ 10cm leg length (waistband sits at top). Trouser leg width 26 sts = 13cm — generously baggy over 5cm leg width ✅

---

#### Assembling the Trousers

1. **Seam inner leg:** Fold each trouser leg piece in half lengthways (RS together) and seam from ankle to the top of the waistband, leaving the very top 4 rows (the waistband casing) open at the fold line to create the drawstring slot.
2. **Seam crotch:** Place the two legs RS together, align at the top (crotch), and seam from front waist down and up to back waist, creating a U-shaped crotch seam. The two legs are now joined.
3. **Drawstring:** Cut a length of CC3 approximately 40cm long. Twist or braid for a neat cord. Thread through the waistband casing using a tapestry needle. Tie ends to finish.
4. **Pressing:** Lay flat and steam lightly if needed to set the shape.

---

### GARMENT 3: THE TOP HAT

The top hat is worked in sections: brim, crown cylinder, and hat top. All worked flat on 4mm needles (3.5mm for tighter brim).

#### Hat Brim

**Using CC2 and 3.5mm needles, CO 42 sts.**

**Rows 1–2:** Knit (garter stitch — outer brim).

**Row 3 (RS):** *K2tog, k5; rep from * to end. *(36 sts)*
**Row 4 (WS):** Knit.
**Row 5 (RS):** *K2tog, k4; rep from * to end. *(30 sts)*
**Row 6 (WS):** Knit (garter stitch — creates a ridge on the brim underside which gives it structure).

**BO all 30 sts.** 

The brim is a semi-flat ring. Seam the short edges together with mattress stitch to form the circular brim.

> ✅ **Brim maths check:** CO 42 sts at 3.5mm (approx. 21 sts/10cm) = 20cm circumference. Decreasing to 30 sts = inner diameter for crown join. Head circumference approx. 22cm stuffed — the hat sits slightly loosely for ease of placement ✅

---

#### Hat Crown Cylinder

**Using CC2 and 4mm needles, CO 30 sts.**

**Rows 1–2:** Knit. 

**Work in St st for 18 rows** (rows 3–20). *(30 sts)*

> ✅ **Crown height check:** 20 rows at 28r/10cm = 7.1cm tall (including brim attachment) — this gives approx. 7cm hat height ✅

Do not cast off — proceed to hat top.

---

#### Hat Top

**Row 21 (RS):** *K2tog, k3; rep from * to end. *(24 sts)*
**Row 22 (WS):** Purl.
**Row 23 (RS):** *K2tog, k2; rep from * to end. *(18 sts)*
**Row 24 (WS):** Purl.
**Row 25 (RS):** *K2tog, k1; rep from * to end. *(12 sts)*
**Row 26 (WS):** Purl.
**Row 27 (RS):** *K2tog; rep from * to end. *(6 sts)*

Cut yarn, leaving a 20cm tail. Thread tail through the 6 remaining sts, pull up tightly, and fasten off securely on the WS.

> ✅ **Hat top decrease maths:** 30 → 24 → 18 → 12 → 6 sts over 4 decrease rounds. ✅ Each decrease round reduces by 6 sts (1 st lost per 5-st repeat → then 4-st, 3-st, 2-st repeats). Confirmed correct ✅

---

#### Assembling the Hat

1. Seam the short edges of the crown cylinder using mattress stitch, forming a tube.
2. The hat top is already closed; the crown is now a cylinder with a closed top.
3. Position the brim ring around the lower edge of the crown cylinder, with the garter stitch edge facing downward. Using mattress stitch, sew the inner edge of the brim (the 30-st bound-off edge) to the lower edge of the crown.
4. Stuff the hat very lightly with a little stuffing or a small circle of thin card (a round of cardboard from a cereal packet works beautifully) to help it hold its shape.
5. **Hat band (optional):** Using CC4 (gold), pick up and knit 30 sts around the base of the crown (or work a crochet slip stitch chain in CC4). Work 2 rows g st. BO. This creates a decorative hat band. Alternatively, tie a length of CC4 yarn around the base of the crown and tie in a small bow or knot.

---

## PART FOUR: FINAL ASSEMBLY AND FINISHING

### Dressing Mr. Hazelwick

1. Put the baggy trousers on the squirrel first, drawing the drawstring at the waist to hold them at the natural waist. Tuck any excess fabric into a pleasing rumpled fold.
2. Place the coat on next. The coat does not need to be closed — Victorian characters often had their coats slightly open. Button the coat or leave artfully ajar.
3. Position the top hat on Mr. Hazelwick's head. It can be secured with a few stitches through the hat brim and into the head if desired, or simply rested at a jaunty angle.

### Finishing Touches

- **Weave in all ends** securely using a tapestry needle. Cotton-bamboo yarn does not felt and ends must be well-secured; weave in a minimum of 5cm in different directions.
- **Squirrel face:** Add tiny embroidered eyelash stitches above each safety eye for expression. Optional: add tiny embroidered claws to feet using 2 sts of straight stitch in a slightly darker yarn.
- **Block the clothes:** Pin the coat and trousers to measurements on a blocking board, mist lightly with water, and leave to dry. This is especially helpful for the coat, which benefits from blocking to lie flat.
- **Tail position:** If the tail needs help holding its arch, a small length of florist's wire or a pipe cleaner can be threaded through the tail centre during stuffing. Twist the ends back on themselves to avoid sharp points, and wrap with yarn before enclosing in the stuffing. (Note: pipe cleaner wire is for adult display pieces only — omit for children's toys.)

---

## YARN REQUIREMENTS SUMMARY

| Section | Colour | Approx. Usage |
|---|---|---|
| Body + head + ears | MC (brown) | 90m |
| Arms + legs + tail | MC (brown) | 60m |
| Muzzle / belly / ear linings | CC1 (cream) | 30m |
| Coat (back, fronts, sleeves, collar, tails) | CC2 (charcoal) | 100m |
| Top hat | CC2 (charcoal) | 20m |
| Trousers | CC3 (taupe) | 55m |
| Coat lining / hat band (optional) | CC4 (gold) | 15m |
| **Total** | | **approx. 370m** |

---

## STITCH COUNT SUMMARY (Quick Reference)

| Piece | CO | Max width | Final BO |
|---|---|---|---|
| Body (×2) | 20 | 24 | 16 |
| Head (×2) | 16 | 22 | 12 |
| Ears (×4) | 8 | 10 | — (gathered to 1) |
| Arms (×2) | 10 | 10 | 4 |
| Legs (×2) | 14 | 14 | 6 |
| Tail (×2) | 6 | 22 | 8 |
| Coat back | 28 | 28 | 5+5 shoulders |
| Coat front (×2) | 16 | 16 | 5 |
| Coat sleeve (×2) | 14 | 18 | 6 |
| Coat collar | 32 | 32 | 32 |
| Coat tail panels (×2) | 10 | 10 | 6 |
| Trouser legs (×2) | 22 | 26 | 20 (rib BO) |
| Hat brim | 42 | 42 | 30 |
| Hat crown | 30 | 30 | → top |
| Hat top | 30 → | → | 6 (gathered) |

---

## TIPS FOR SUCCESS

- **Cotton-bamboo and tension:** This yarn has less elasticity than wool. Check your swatch carefully and go down a needle size if your tension is loose — a firm fabric looks far neater on a toy.
- **Seaming cotton-bamboo:** The yarn seams beautifully. Use mattress stitch consistently; the slight sheen of bamboo makes seams very visible so neatness matters.
- **Stuffing gradually:** Stuff body parts as you seam them, adding a little at a time. Cotton-bamboo fabric doesn't "give," so it's easier to adjust stuffing during seaming than to correct after.
- **The tail:** If the looped fringe technique feels fiddly, a simpler alternative is to work the tail surface in a bouclé stitch (knit into the front and back of every stitch on RS rows, slip the extra loop off on the following WS row). Test on a small swatch first.
- **Coat fitting:** Fit the coat on the finished squirrel before sewing the side seams — adjust the coat side seam placement if necessary to achieve the best fit over the body.

---

*Pattern designed for advanced knitters. All rights reserved. For personal use only.*

*Mr. Hazelwick awaits his acorn collection.*

---