purlJam

<pattern>

# NESTED HEARTS PANEL
**A small Fair Isle heart motif perfect for appliqués, coasters, or decorative panels**

---

## DESCRIPTION
This quick and easy project creates a charming double-heart motif using Fair Isle (stranded) colorwork technique. The finished panel measures approximately 8cm (3.2") square, making it perfect as an appliqué for garments, a decorative coaster, or a gift tag. The larger outer heart frames a smaller contrasting heart inside for a sweet, layered effect.

---

## MATERIALS

**Yarn:**
- Main Color (MC): Worsted weight yarn, approximately 10 yards (9m)
- Contrast Color (CC): Worsted weight yarn, approximately 5 yards (4.5m)

**Machine:**
- Standard gauge (4.5mm) knitting machine
- Compatible with all standard machines: Brother, Silver Reed, Studio/Singer
- No ribber required
- Suitable for punchcard or electronic machines

**Additional Tools:**
- Waste yarn in similar weight for cast-on
- Ravel cord
- Cast-on comb and weights (approximately 4-6 small weights)
- Transfer tool or latch tool for bind-off
- Tapestry needle for weaving in ends
- Spray bottle and blocking surface for finishing

---

## TENSION/GAUGE

**Tension Dial:** T6 (or tension that achieves gauge)  
**Gauge:** 6 stitches and 7.5 rows = 1 inch (2.5cm) in Fair Isle stockinette

**IMPORTANT:** Always knit a tension swatch before starting. Fair Isle knitting naturally pulls in slightly tighter than single-color knitting. Your swatch should measure 6 sts/inch horizontally when fabric is relaxed (not stretched).

---

## FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Width: 3.2" (8.1cm)  
Height: 3.3" (8.4cm)

---

## ABBREVIATIONS

- **RC** = Row Counter
- **COL** = Carriage on Left
- **COR** = Carriage on Right
- **MC** = Main Color
- **CC** = Contrast Color
- **T** = Tension dial setting
- **WY** = Waste Yarn
- **st(s)** = stitch(es)
- **L** = Left
- **R** = Right

---

## PATTERN NOTES

**Fair Isle Technique:**
This pattern uses Fair Isle stranding with two colors worked simultaneously. Both yarns remain attached throughout; you'll select needles according to the chart while the carriage knits both colors in position.

**For Punchcard Machines:**
- Use Fair Isle setting (usually marked "N" or "Fair Isle" on carriage lever)
- Both yarn feeders in operation (MC in feeder A, CC in feeder B, or as machine specifies)
- Needles that are NOT selected to D position will knit MC
- Needles selected to D position will knit CC
- You may need to program the chart into your punchcard system or use an electronic chart

**For Electronic Machines:**
- Program the chart into machine memory (19 sts wide × 25 rows)
- Set carriage to Fair Isle mode
- MC in feeder A, CC in feeder B (check your machine manual)

**Manual Selection (All Machines):**
If your machine doesn't have automatic selection, you can manually push needles to D position following the chart. This takes longer but works perfectly well.

**Yarn Management:**
Keep both yarns loosely tensioned in their feeders. Don't pull tight; let the carriage manage the tension. Floats on the back should lie flat without puckering.

---

## CHART

The chart is read from bottom to top, right to left on COL passes, and left to right on COR passes (standard for most machines).

**Key:**
- □ (empty square) = MC (Main Color - knit)
- ■ (filled square) = CC (Contrast Color - knit)

```
Row 25: □□□□□■■■■■■■■■■□□□□
Row 24: □□□□■■■■■■■■■■■■■□□
Row 23: □□□■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■□
Row 22: □□■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■
Row 21: □■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■
Row 20: □■■■■■■■□□□■■■■■■■□
Row 19: ■■■■■■■□□□□□■■■■■■■
Row 18: ■■■■■■□□□□□□□■■■■■■
Row 17: ■■■■■■□□□□□□□■■■■■■
Row 16: ■■■■■■■□□□□□■■■■■■■
Row 15: ■■■■■■■■□□□■■■■■■■■
Row 14: ■■■■■■■■■□■■■■■■■■■
Row 13: ■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■
Row 12: □■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■□
Row 11: □■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■□
Row 10: □□■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■□□
Row 9:  □□■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■□□
Row 8:  □□□■■■■■■■■■■■■■□□□
Row 7:  □□□□■■■■■■■■■■■□□□□
Row 6:  □□□□□■■■■■■■■■□□□□□
Row 5:  □□□□□□■■■■■■■□□□□□□
Row 4:  □□□□□□□■■■■■□□□□□□□
Row 3:  □□□□□□□□■■■□□□□□□□□
Row 2:  □□□□□□□□□■□□□□□□□□□
Row 1:  □□□□□□□□□□□□□□□□□□□
```

**Chart Stitch Numbers (for reference):**
```
Position: 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
          L L L L L L L L L   R R R R R R R R R
          ← Left of center|Center|Right of center →
```

---

## INSTRUCTIONS

### MACHINE SETUP

1. **Needle Arrangement:**
   - Bring 19 needles into B position (working position)
   - Center arrangement: needles from L9 to R9 (or -9 to +9)
   - All other needles remain in A position (non-working)

2. **Carriage Setup:**
   - Set tension dial to T6 for both MC and CC
   - Thread MC in main feeder position
   - Thread CC in second feeder position (or prepare to switch manually)
   - If using Fair Isle automatic selection: set carriage levers to Fair Isle mode
   - If manual selection: prepare to push needles to D position according to chart

3. **Row Counter:**
   - Set RC to 000

---

### CAST-ON (Waste Yarn Method)

**RC 000, Carriage at Right (COR)**

1. Using waste yarn and ravel cord, cast on 19 sts using your preferred method:
   - **Option A:** Closed cast-on with ravel cord below waste yarn knitting
   - **Option B:** E-wrap cast-on followed by several rows of waste knitting

2. With WY at T6, knit 6-8 rows of waste fabric.
   - RC does not advance during waste knitting (keep at 000)
   - End COR

3. Hang cast-on comb and distribute 4-6 small weights evenly across the width.

4. **Change to MC.**
   - Knit 1 row with MC at T6 to establish main fabric.
   - This row does not count in pattern; keep RC at 000.
   - End COL.

---

### MAIN PANEL (Fair Isle Heart Pattern)

**Starting Position: RC 000, COL, MC threaded**

**Row 1:** (COL → COR)
- All 19 needles knit MC (refer to Chart Row 1: all empty squares)
- Carriage knits right
- RC 001, COR

**Row 2:** (COR → COL)
- Following Chart Row 2: Center stitch (needle 0) knits CC; manually push needle 0 to D position (or machine selects)
- All other 18 sts knit MC
- If manual: Push needle 0 to D position before carriage pass
- Carriage knits left
- RC 002, COL

**Rows 3-7:** (COL ↔ COR)
- Continue following chart
- Each row, select needles to D position (for CC) according to chart pattern
- Outer stitches remain MC, CC heart shape grows from center point upward
- After Row 7: RC 007, COL

**Validation Check at RC 007:**
- You should see MC background with small CC heart shape beginning to form at bottom center
- 7 rows = approximately 0.93" (2.4cm) of fabric below comb

**Rows 8-12:** (COL ↔ COR)
- CC heart continues to widen
- By Row 12, CC stitches reach maximum width (17 sts wide)
- After Row 12: RC 012, COL

**Rows 13-15:** (COL ↔ COR)
- All 19 stitches knit CC (solid CC background begins)
- Inner heart in MC starts to appear
- Row 13: All CC
- Row 14: Center stitch (needle 0) knits MC, all others CC
- Row 15: 3 center sts (L1, 0, R1) knit MC, all others CC
- After Row 15: RC 015, COL

**Validation Check at RC 015:**
- Halfway point of design
- CC outer heart should be full width with small MC inner heart appearing at center
- Fabric measures approximately 2" (5cm) from cast-on

**Rows 16-19:** (COL ↔ COR)
- Inner MC heart grows while staying within CC outer heart
- Follow chart carefully: MC heart expands outward from center
- CC background continues at edges
- After Row 19: RC 019, COL

**Rows 20-21:** (COL ↔ COR)
- Inner MC heart reaches maximum width (7 sts wide on Row 20)
- CC begins to decrease at outer edges as heart shape curves inward at top
- After Row 21: RC 021, COL

**Rows 22-25:** (COL ↔ COR)
- Both hearts taper to points at top
- CC outer heart narrows
- Inner MC heart narrows
- Row 25 (final row): Only 11 center stitches knit CC
- After Row 25: RC 025, COL

**Validation Check at RC 025:**
- Complete heart design visible
- Top of heart comes to rounded point
- Fabric measures approximately 3.3" (8.4cm) from cast-on

---

### BIND-OFF

**RC 025, COL, all 19 needles in work**

1. **Change to WY.**
   - Knit 6 rows at T6 with waste yarn
   - Do not advance RC (or note RC separately)
   - End COR

2. **Release from machine:**
   - Remove weights and comb
   - Take carriage completely off needles (or push to opposite end)
   - Carefully remove knitting from needles, leaving WY rows intact

3. **Secure stitches:**
   - Thread a length of waste yarn through all 19 live stitches using a tapestry needle
   - OR use a latch tool to chain off each stitch individually for a neater edge